510 XL CE2 + SS400 wick = Awesome

[VWFringe]

Dan, or anyone, I look at this and the SuckALot, and the Genesis, and wonder - since i have no experience - does the cup need to be there for air-flow, to control the draw and direct air at the coil in multiple places, or would it work to just leave it hang in space up towards the top of a suckalot, and act like a genesis by using Kanthal?

i was looking at your Genesis, at how the mesh goes dives into the liquid, and thought 'why does that plate need to be there, that separates the resevoir from the coil...?

maybe someone's already done this, but would it work to strip the stuffing out of a carto, and replace the wick with ss mesh, and just seal the bottom holes and drill a new one near the coil? or something like that configuration with the coil hanging in space but vertical instead of horiz, so the wick would hang down into fluid

i'm just to lazy to catch up on those monsters - maybe i saw this already, anyway, thanks,

 

[slopes]

Nice work Dan. When I made my single SS wick CE2 mod last year, it provided an excellent vape. I think the material is good enough to feed the wick without needing a double wick. The single wick also makes it far more possible to fit the whole thing neatly back inside its original tube housing - which is how I did mine. Here's my old diagram for anyone who's interested in trying it out...

Also, I find that SS mesh gives a much better vape than the string on all my mods.

 

[drewk302]

Ok I made 2 more today, I got the rolls down, nice and small. I wrapped the coil nice and tight. I had the same problem one side heating only. The next one I made, I, after quenching, I torched the part where the coil hits and wrapped and soldered.......it worked.....until. Next I cleaned it, then ran some vg on it, I put it in the tank, mine is smaller than the bottles you used, 5/8" I.D. When I put it in the tank it seemed to wiggle the coil, I ran it, again only half the coil light up and pop all gone. I am almost ready to give up...........really getting frustrated. Dan, the only thing I didnt do was solder it o the mesh after rolling a few coils, I forgot. Maybe thats next, I just dont get it.

 

[drewk302]

Still trying, I got new enamel coated wire and resin core - silver solder. The soldering was so much easier, much better ground. Made a new one and, it worked attached to a 3.7v box I wet the coils and mesh, blew lots of smoke, as it got drier, again outer coils lit up nice and red, I was doing about 5 sec with 5-10 sec in between and the coil popped. I can see that as being normal if it went totally dry, so ok, but still, I do dry burn my ce2's always to clean and I always get all the coils to glow and never popped one yet. I am at a loss. I did burn where the coils with a torch and oval'ed the coil shape. I knew these were going to give me a massive headache, for some reason these and attys dont mix well with me. If someone, anyone, anywhere, has any tips left that would be great. I have ce2's, beat up mesh rolls, and just pieces everywhere....... Thats 1 of my rolls

 

[Scubabatdan]

Dan, or anyone, I look at this and the SuckALot, and the Genesis, and wonder - since i have no experience - does the cup need to be there for air-flow, to control the draw and direct air at the coil in multiple places, or would it work to just leave it hang in space up towards the top of a suckalot, and act like a genesis by using Kanthal?

i was looking at your Genesis, at how the mesh goes dives into the liquid, and thought 'why does that plate need to be there, that separates the resevoir from the coil...?

maybe someone's already done this, but would it work to strip the stuffing out of a carto, and replace the wick with ss mesh, and just seal the bottom holes and drill a new one near the coil? or something like that configuration with the coil hanging in space but vertical instead of horiz, so the wick would hang down into fluid

i'm just to lazy to catch up on those monsters - maybe i saw this already, anyway, thanks,

The silicon seal and the plate in the GEN mod are there to prevent the juice from leaking into the mouth piece and prevent flooding of the coil. If they were not there you would have to hold the PV perfectly vertical and could not tilt it or risk allowing the juice to flood the coil and then leak down the air tube and onto the PV.
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

Still trying, I got new enamel coated wire and resin core - silver solder. The soldering was so much easier, much better ground. Made a new one and, it worked attached to a 3.7v box I wet the coils and mesh, blew lots of smoke, as it got drier, again outer coils lit up nice and red, I was doing about 5 sec with 5-10 sec in between and the coil popped. I can see that as being normal if it went totally dry, so ok, but still, I do dry burn my ce2's always to clean and I always get all the coils to glow and never popped one yet. I am at a loss. I did burn where the coils with a torch and oval'ed the coil shape. I knew these were going to give me a massive headache, for some reason these and attys dont mix well with me. If someone, anyone, anywhere, has any tips left that would be great. I have ce2's, beat up mesh rolls, and just pieces everywhere.......View attachment 39386 Thats 1 of my rolls

Ok I have had the same problem as you....
I use a tooth pick, somthing non metalic and fire the atty and continually move the actual coil around between firings until it does not arc through the SS. Somtime I am lucky and do not need to do this, other time I have had to reburn the SS and try again. once the entire coil glows there are no shorts, then the break in period begins, it took me a day on a new coil before it functions optimally. Once the coil oxidizes it begins working great. Hang in there you almost at the finish line!
Oh an do not wrap the coil too tightly, it should be easy to move around once it is in place.
Dan

 

[Silent Soldier]

I was having the same problem with the coil shorting out and popping. I had to quench my mesh wick several times, even went so far as to put a little juice on it where the wick would go before I heated it, the juice flamed up a bit and burnt off then I quenched it. After getting everything together and in place I rinsed it all off under hot tap water. So far so good, but only time will tell.

For once I didn't have much trouble soldering, I used this...

The solder is Novak #5832 lead free rosin core silver solder.

Thanks for the tip on the flux Dan, this stuff works wonders. What kind of wire are you using for the leads? The wire in some of those pics doesn't look like the same stuff that comes on the CE2.

 

[drewk302]

Well I have a success!!!! I made one and it worked great, I installed it into a tank and I believe putting the cap on and moving it around killed it, Then the ground fell off. So I made yet another and decided to just put it in a ce2 tube for now and walla it works, vapes great. I am kind of mad it ohm'ed out at 2.2ohms, but we have a start! Thanks for all the help. I am sure I will need more on the next builds, but again its a start. After hours and hours and hours and wasted mesh.

 

[hankbizzo5]

What is the life span of this type of mod. I know i have to change a coil/wick lets say about 3-4 weeks on a standard atty rebuild. Ce2 unmoded i will refill numerous times.....

 

[drewk302]

What is the life span of this type of mod. I know i have to change a coil/wick lets say about 3-4 weeks on a standard atty rebuild. Ce2 unmoded i will refill numerous times.....

1 I had previous to the one I just made, was @2.7ohm in a 10ml tank. I ran about 25ml through it, never cleaned it, it worked awesome. The coil went after about 25ml (maybe a lil more). It went when the tank was getting low and I vape HARD meaning 10sec puffs 5-10sec in between. So prob could have gotten more.

 

[Scubabatdan]

What is the life span of this type of mod. I know i have to change a coil/wick lets say about 3-4 weeks on a standard atty rebuild. Ce2 unmoded i will refill numerous times.....

About the same, any coil will gunk up and eventually burn out, but my wife in on 6 weeks with her's now.
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

Well I have a success!!!! I made one and it worked great, I installed it into a tank and I believe putting the cap on and moving it around killed it, Then the ground fell off. So I made yet another and decided to just put it in a ce2 tube for now and walla it works, vapes great. I am kind of mad it ohm'ed out at 2.2ohms, but we have a start! Thanks for all the help. I am sure I will need more on the next builds, but again its a start. After hours and hours and hours and wasted mesh.

The beauty of mesh is it can be washed and reused, so there should not be any waste there!
Keep it up you will get it!
Dan

 

[drewk302]

I also think I may be heating it to much when quenching, when I am done doing it 3 times its VERY dark. The whols thing comes out black, I use my mini torch and get it all glowing, dunk it, and right when I take it out I heat it again. I tried less heating, it was better. I made a new one, best coil, and mesh rolls I've done, but when assembled i did a short dry test and it melted the solder, it looks like. I rolled it tight and the solder points were right against the coil. I'll get it right, it will be the death of me, but I will.

 

[hankbizzo5]

Thanks for the reply. I think i will give it a try.....

 

[Silent Soldier]

The beauty of mesh is it can be washed and reused, so there should not be any waste there!
Keep it up you will get it!
Dan

That's good to know, I just finished cutting and rolling sheet #1 out of 5. I got 57 wicks out of it with a few scraps to spare (YMMV) and I have over 29ft of nichrome. I finally got one built and it's vaping like a champ, the only problem is that the cup & air tube keep getting flooded with juice after only a few minutes when it's just sitting upright & not being used.

 

[eplates]

When the wick I use starts to produce less vapor even after washing... I take a fine needle and gently poke tiny holes a few times in the mesh between the coils..this may not be the best thing to do but it works for me.I've spent much less money using the mesh than buying new carto's.

 

[polsmoka]

Thanks, Dan. I was afraid the sswick won't lay nicely and thus won't wick very well. So, now I don't have any excuses anymore Thanks once again.


Nothing The number of loops has nothing to do to the resistance - it would matter only if you were measuring the inductance of the wire.

Is this correct that the resistance depends only on the wire's spec and the lenght you use? This seems contrary to what I read about the number of turns/coils vs resistance? Thanks!

 

[asdaq]

Is this correct that the resistance depends only on the wire's spec and the lenght you use? This seems contrary to what I read about the number of turns/coils vs resistance? Thanks!

Resistance depends on wire specs and length. More loops in your coil mean more length and more resistance.

 

[drewk302]

I quit. May quit it all too. Once you tasted the ss mesh wicks its like nothing else, now everything else I use taste horrible. Great mod Scuba, I have to just realize I cant make them. I wont even say how many hours and, mesh, wires, and solder I went through.

 

[Scubabatdan]

I quit. May quit it all too. Once you tasted the ss mesh wicks its like nothing else, now everything else I use taste horrible. Great mod Scuba, I have to just realize I cant make them. I wont even say how many hours and, mesh, wires, and solder I went through.

Well what nichrome wire are you using? I found 36 is to temprimental (burns out fast if there is a short) and have been using 34ga but mostly 32ga. If nothing else you can take a brand new CE2 and remove the coil and re-wrap it around the SS. I have done this and I have not had a problem. Are you sure there is not a cloud following you?
Dan