A dz mod :)> ....Ok pdib too

[pdib]

So my flat buttontop batteries will be here in a couple days! To celebrate, I made the first firing pin for driving REO with flattops (first of my 3 slated). Pretty straightforward stuff. The button on the AW is about 1.2-1.4mm tall. The existing pins are about 1.5mm "tall". So, I shot for a total extension of around 2.8mm (I think I got 3mm). Pretty much the same shape as before; but my various pliers and such had limitations, so I couldn't get the pretty round roll I had on previous style. Mostly, though, I just wanted to keep the roundover well away from the main shaft, as Dizzie said he would betimes see arcing jumping across "shorter paths". So, lots of pics. I took 'em, so you might as well see them.












I tried to angle the downturn of it so that, given my "calculations" on throw and such, the "vertical/end" section of the pin would be straight up and down when striking the battery, thus not deflect much from pressure . . . . . . we shall see in a couple days.

 

[studiovap]

If you end up making solid Australiantium firing pins . . . . . .. make a couple for me!

Ok no Australiantium firing pins yet , but my Reo arrived today, I've sanded the bottom of the enclosure and for now have made a thick brass shim that has a hole for the spring mount screw to go through and wraps arount the original spring and plate in a reversed C shape.

Unmodded Reo with 0.9 Ohm Coil with a fresh Grey Panasonic Hybrid at 4.19v showed 3.42v at the atty terminals.

With spring bypass brass shim mod 0.9 Ohm Coil with a freshish Grey Panasonic Hybrid at 4.17v showed 3.79v at the atty terminals.

So with just this mod so far i have a .39v improvement.

Can you tell me how the ss leaf spring is attached to the 510 pos pin. being as it's my first few hours with my new Reo, I didn't want to damage it by being impatient and modding the firing pin without hearing how you disasembled and reattached it, also how can you remove the 510 pos pin fron the 510 connector to inspect the rubber/silicone insulator?
If it was any other tube mod I would be tearing it appart with haste, but I only have the one Reo, and I want it to keep working while i mod it.
I will either way be making a firing pin to shorten the throw for my Grey Panasonic Hybrids as they are excellent value, safe chemistry and have great run time,and are cheap and easy to source here in Oz ($21 for two with free shipping vs AW1600 @ $17 each and $10 shipping) but are flat top design, and my sick mod bottom feeders are super light /short throw buttons, and this is somthing the Reo lacks with the Pannys.

 

[studiovap]

Ok I am an impatient SOB, and as a result I have broken my 510 pos pin AHHH!!!,
So instead of chilling out and watching a movie I had to mod the hell out of my Reo to get it working again.
I took an old center piece/tube from and old clearo, stardust,kanger T2 or something, can't remember where its' from, but sanded the end flat, cut it off shorter beveled, and shamfered one end, used a AGA-t insulator and a section of bogger box hose to rebuild the damged insulator, fashioned a brass spring from a piece of 6.3x 0.44 brass strap, and used an interfereance fit on the shamfered shaft/newly formed 510 pos pin and put it all back together,I still had arcing ( the reason I started fiddleing) so wrapped the Panny with a piece of insulation tape on the negative end ( to ensure no shorting on the body) span the battery upside down so the firing pin strikes the negative end of the battery, and bobs you mothers brother no arcing at all, 0.9Ohm coil on a 4.09v grey panny and I got 3.9V at the atty terminals.
So all in all not bad for a stressed out recovery

Standard Voltage drop on 0.9Ohm coil 0.77v
Modded Voltage drop on 0.9Ohm coil 0.19v

I thank you Sir.

 

[MamaTried]

Ok I am an impatient SOB, and as a result I have broken my 510 pos pin AHHH!!!,
So instead of chilling out and watching a movie I had to mod the hell out of my Reo to get it working again.
I took an old center piece/tube from and old clearo, stardust,kanger T2 or something, can't remember where its' from, but sanded the end flat, cut it off shorte beveled, and shamfered one end, used a AGA-t insulator and a section of bogger box hose to rebuild the damged insulator, fashioned a brass spring from a piece of 6.3x 0.44 brass strap, and used an interferance fit on the shamfered shaft/newly formed 510 pos pin and put it all back together,I still had arcing ( the reason I started fiddleing) so wrapped the Panny with a piece of insulation tape on the negative end ( to ensure no shorting on the body) span the battery upside down so the firing pin strikes the negative end of the battery, and bobs you mothers brother no arcing at all, 0.9Ohm coil on a 4.09v grey panny and I got 3.9V at the atty terminals.
So all in all not bad for a stressed out recovery

Standard Voltage drop on 0.9Ohm coil 0.77v
Modded Voltage drop on 0.9Ohm coil 0.19v

I thank you Sir.

nice!

adversity is the mutha of invention...

 

[pdib]

Arg! . . . . . . . . the humanity! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


Seriously, I'm right there with you, feeling the pain, my ozzie bro! (snicker)

There's a rebuild video at Rob's website. The tube nipple (@bottom of + 510 stem) screws on and captures the firing pin. Anyway, GREAT RESULTS, studiovap!

You may have seen my brass shim thread (although, I have an inkling you hadn't, and came up with your brass spring mod independently)

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/466805-pdib-mod-p.html

 

[pdib]

Here's my 510 post. I decided to go the "polish the chrome off it" route, instead of the "break it off and raid the clearo graveyard" route. (I tease, but with love)







That thready looking part is where the feed-tube nipple screws on.

 

[turbocad6]

ha, I tried a little to get my firing pin out tonight but it wouldn't unscrew, the whole springy tab thing was spinning, then I noticed it was brass anyway so I just ripped it out and made a new one from stainless steel. I used an insulator from my aga t and o rings on the back side to insulate it

I used a #6 ss screw, drilled through the center and then spun it in my drill while holding it up to a grinder to shape the head and insulator area. the screw next to it is the same screw I started with. I did wind up making the head a little smaller than it's shown in these pics

 

[pdib]

Oho! serious alterations are afoot! So, how does the firing pin attach to this setup? Between the nut and the teflon(?) spacer?

 

[turbocad6]

no, I'm wiring in a dna20 module to give it electronic ignition, but yes, you could do this and bolt on a brass firing spring tab, this would improve voltage drop too

 

[pdib]

Oh, right. Well, I was hoping you had some wonderful solution. I was toying with a different idea altogether, and I keep bumping into the limitations posed by the existing means of attaching the firing pin to a chrome plated brass 510 + post. I was hoping to replace the post, but not have to machine the parts like "screw-on tube nipple holding fining pin to shoulder of + post". Hmmmmmm . .. . well, I'll leave you to your own mad science. I'm eager to see you blow some clouds out of your creation! (or hear about it)

 

[turbocad6]

you don't have to machine anything to do this, the silicone hose fits right on to this screw, threaded and all and seals just fine, the only hard part about making a new stainless steel firing pin like this is drilling the center hole, pretty much need a drill press for that, but once you do this then you can make a really great mechanical switch setup from here.

 

[pdib]

tonight's the night!

 

[jcalis1394]

tonight's the night!

Keeping a close eye on this good luck pdib!

 

[Treebeard]

I'm giddy with anticipation...

 

[pdib]

Dam batteries are still charging!

Does green charge slower than red batteries? (← )

IDK: getting late, maybe tomorrow. The mod is all set up and waiting for a battery. We'll see.

 

[super_X_drifter]

Dam batteries are still charging!

Does green charge slower than red batteries? (← )

IDK: getting late, maybe tomorrow. The mod is all set up and waiting for a battery. We'll see.

Pull eet nao

 

[pdib]

Hey, Supe . . . . remember when I first set up the REO you sent me? I thought you were gonna reach through my monitor and throttle me! You know I like to enjoy the ride when it comes to this stuff!

In the fullness of time (and battery)

 

[super_X_drifter]

Yes, I remember a brief phone conversation too. That's when I completely realized that you were capable and not bashful of getting under the hood of a mod. I try to avoid that stuff cause I usually wreck things from lack of patience.

I'm thinking back on that love letter I put with the mod (before I fully understood the above) and now realize what a waste of a good 10 minutes that was writing that .

If I could rewind the tape, Ida just put that beast in the box and let it ride.

Damn glad I sent that bad boy to you bro

 

[pdib]

Ok, well it's late. So no vids. Maybe tomorrow. Anyway, I gotta preface this by saying that I totally lost track of what I was doing here. The Samsung was of interest to me because it had the promise of performing as well as the AW1600; but boasting 2000mAh. The charts layed out just like that. The Samsung charted better because it's got more energy to spare. So, at any given moment, it can push out more (except the first moment; fully charged battery, where they should be equal). I modded the pin because the Samsung is a flat buttontop, and I've had my headaches with that scenario.

Meanwhile, tho, I got all psyched up on the inaccurate high that I was gonna get better results. (Depending on who's #s you look at, the Samsung may have a touch less internal resistance.) What was I thinking? . .. . . . . Dunno. So, maybe I mislead all of you (maybe not, IDK) into thinking angels were gonna sing. .. . . .. Nope.

But here is what I got.


The Samsungs tested out almost exactly the same as the AWs. Both on a 1Ω, and (more importantly) on a 0.4Ω coil. Differences were a couple of thousandths. On the .4Ω coil, I got a 0.32V drop (same as the best of the AW tests). On the 1Ω, a 0.18V drop. (The best I ever got on the AW was 0.13; but usually 0.16)

So, at first I was disappointed. And then I thought. . . . . . hold on .. . . I'm vaping this .4Ω coil on a 2000mAh battery that performs as good as it gets (everything else in this class is 1300-1600mAh) @ 3.8V (that's a true 36 watts, kids), with a sweet firing pin that (based on the 3 buttontop versions) will perform flawlessly with zero arcing (without Noalox) with the safety of a 10A fuse that pops faster than the spring (mini fuse in my proper holder). I've got my 6 position air hole collar opened up to 1.7mm . . . . blowing immense clouds of Lemonade out of Alexander Mundy's Magic Twisted Ribbon Wire and all this on the sweetest f_cking mod that ever graced this planet . . .. . THE REO GRAND! (I don't gotta tell you about that, my brothahs and sistahs)

SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!



*me too, Supe . . . . me too

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Dam batteries are still charging!

Does green charge slower than red batteries? (← )

IDK: getting late, maybe tomorrow. The mod is all set up and waiting for a battery. We'll see.

Well lets see, you are putting more in at the same rate.........so yeah.



Sent from the middle of nowhere between Tintown and Goodnight by the magic of electromagnetic waves.
(String on tin cans was not long enough)