A dz mod :)> ....Ok pdib too

[pdib]

Thanks, Mr. Science . ..

Just a note here .. . . for anyone modifying/making pins for flat buttontops: I would shoot for 2.5mm on the length of the nose (i.e. the vertical meas. of the bent down pin section). I say this because, if you get up to 2.8mm (bending is inexact), you're fine. Right about 3mm, you're getting so close to touching the battery that I don't think it's safe, and the button lock has more play than that (so it would be ineffective).

Another cautionary note: what happens if you modify your pins for flat buttontop, and then try and run a buttontop in there?. . .. . anyone? . .. . . constant contact/firing, that's right.

(NO! I didn't try it! I actually thought of that while designing my extended pin)




sent to you from the tips of my fingers (from which lightning bolts also shoot)

 

[element77]

OMG look at that effing button!!! DZ's skills are outta control! Love my Reos
Thanks DZ

 

[turbocad6]

ha, I've got a samsung flat top that's actually slightly longer overall than the effest button tops I have, so it's not always true that a flat top is always just a button head shorter than a button head battery would be. to me ideally you should set the mod up for one specific battery and then just run those same batteries in rotation. trying to set up for fitting multiple types of batteries in the same mod can sometimes be a headache

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Thanks, Mr. Science . .. ..............

Me thinks you have me confused with Bill Nye.

His vapefu doesn't look strong.

 

[pdib]

ha, I've got a samsung flat top that's actually slightly longer overall than the effest button tops I have, so it's not always true that a flat top is always just a button head shorter than a button head battery would be. to me ideally you should set the mod up for one specific battery and then just run those same batteries in rotation. trying to set up for fitting multiple types of batteries in the same mod can sometimes be a headache

Agree totally. I'm setting up for strictly my Samsungs. I just thought I perceived an opening for "stupid" (u-know, where someone uses your mod idea, but then doesn't think it through). When I was doing my mods, battery body size mattered for size of fuse holder at the bott, and then nipple/no-nipple mattered for firing pin nose-drop specs. So, yeah, the one battery is shorter-longer-shorter, and the other is longer-shorter-longer (or what you may have).

You vaping that thing yet, turbo? (IDRec)

 

[pdib]

While waiting for Beryllium Copper to fall from the sky, must we simply sit on our hands? No, sir, I say, "no, sir". So Alex Mundy says he made a pin out of a brass feeler gauge. "Hey, I got a brass feeler gauge," says I. So, I was wondering whether there's any difference in performance or maintenance btwn solid brass and the brass sheathed ss pin. So, let's find out, shall we? Here's the pin, gonna go put it in.






oh, while I'm in there, I may as well slip in this SuperTrunker type button too.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

For reference pdib here is what I found:
At .4 ohm (melted button) with stock firing arm and fuse mod I was getting a bad voltage drop IIRC .7V on a fresh battery.
After the .10 brass feeler gauge I was getting .35V at .4 ohm.
So the stock firing arm was using up about 6 watts of power to melt my button.
Had to up the resistance due to better coil voltage and with a .9 ohm coil in currently I am getting .12V drop.

Got to give you the credit for the inspiration of both mods, and anyone you got the inspiration from.

 

[pdib]

Well, there's no science in my backyard today. I didn't clean everything before testing the old setup, AND when I went to remove the juice-tube nipple . .. . it fell off. "Somebody" (←me) overtightened it. So, I can't compare to that reading, cause it was garbage. Nonetheless is was a .35V drop on a .6Ω coil.

Got the new pin in and set it all back up (which of course entails a clean and tight setup) . . .. 0.6Ω coil got me a .22V drop. Not bad. (4.14V was 3.92 loaded).

I'll pop a quick 1Ω . . . .. .

 

[pdib]

so, 1Ω coil went like . .. . 4.11 loaded = 3.98V

so it's a 0.13V drop . . .. best I've ever had. (had that once before with the AW. A first for the Samsung)


NICE!

 

[turbocad6]

how are you connecting this to the firing pin in the 510 connection, pressing it on? are you then soldering it or just press fit alone?

 

[darkzero]

how are you connecting this to the firing pin in the 510 connection, pressing it on? are you then soldering it or just press fit alone?

Same way as stock, fastened with the "juice tube nipple" as pdibz mentioned a few posts up.

 

[pdib]

Yep, what darkzero said. Here's a video for that assembly from Rob's website.

 

[turbocad6]

oh, ok, got it now, I didn't realize that the tab was sandwiched between the pin and the nipple then screw tightened, for some reason I though it was pressed on to the nipple itself, I just ripped mine out when I removed it, didn't even realize I could unscrew it when I was taking mine apart

 

[turbocad6]

ha, guess some times it pays to read the instructions

 

[pdib]

I know, I saw your firing pin carcass picture.

Well, your mod is beautiful, despite that speck of carnage.

 

[turbocad6]

ha, I knew I wasn't going to reuse it so I didn't bother looking for instructions but the way this thing is assembled is pretty cool, I really thought it was a press fit just looking at it

 

[darkzero]

That makes sense, I just figured since you took yours apart you had known how it was stock. Didn't really think about how you took it apart.

 

[custom-classic]

Seriously eyeballin' this thing...

 

[custom-classic]

No more Noalox!!!

 

[patrao_n]

Well I just realized after reading this thread that there was a rebuild video on the reosmods site. I was staring at the damn Reo trying to figure it all out when I was taking mine apart lol. I did figure it out and all is well now. Just would have been a lot easier.

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