oh, i thought you had the REO body itself in CAD! that's what I've been looking to tinker with
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oh, i thought you had the REO body itself in CAD! that's what I've been looking to tinker with
p, as I mentioned, been busy with work so I haven't kept modding my mod, but I could think of this, custom made of Silver or other conductive material, and eliminate a couple contact points in the process
Single part, not to scale, but you the idea
Nice! As far as solid contact mass goes, it's a beast. My question is . . .. if you push it in from underneath (on account of the plate), how does it stay up? If there were a threaded "head" or 510 contact part that had wider "shoulders"/head, that would be the adjustable pin, and serve to "hang it" in the opening as well.
edit: oops, if it were the hanger, then turning the screw out would only serve to drop the bottom half. So, dhomes, your part, would need at least one threaded connection and some shoulders at the top.
edit: oops, if it were the hanger, then turning the screw out would only serve to drop the bottom half. So, dhomes, your part, would need at least one threaded connection and some shoulders at the top.
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I think my next project (little one) will be to simply take the chrome plating off the critical points of a standard REO 510 post, and see (with one of my type firing pins) what kin'a results I get. I wouldn't expect too much difference; but we should know what that # is (so to speak).
As I alluded to above (several posts above), I'm getting variation in my v-drop readings. These range from 0.2V (total loss) to 0.4V. Every time, so far, I've managed to get the 0.4V readings down to 0.3V with some simple steps. All of these steps involve making sure there is good contact at the 510. Never, so far has there been any improvement from cleaning or resettling the brass shim or firing pin. It's all up in the neck there. So if I de-chrome a post, and start to get consistent 0.2V drop; I will consider that to be a big step in the right direction. It wouldn't be a better number, but it's a strong number in it's consistency.
ADDIT: There has been some variation in my coils' resistance on these readings (0.4Ω-0.5Ω). I'll try and be more cautious to note each coil's resistance to clean up my numbers. (which is totally cool!!!!! having to observe discrepancies like that = fine tuning, in my book. And fine tuning, in my book, = alot has already happened!)
(THIS IS SO FUN!)
As I alluded to above (several posts above), I'm getting variation in my v-drop readings. These range from 0.2V (total loss) to 0.4V. Every time, so far, I've managed to get the 0.4V readings down to 0.3V with some simple steps. All of these steps involve making sure there is good contact at the 510. Never, so far has there been any improvement from cleaning or resettling the brass shim or firing pin. It's all up in the neck there. So if I de-chrome a post, and start to get consistent 0.2V drop; I will consider that to be a big step in the right direction. It wouldn't be a better number, but it's a strong number in it's consistency.
ADDIT: There has been some variation in my coils' resistance on these readings (0.4Ω-0.5Ω). I'll try and be more cautious to note each coil's resistance to clean up my numbers. (which is totally cool!!!!! having to observe discrepancies like that = fine tuning, in my book. And fine tuning, in my book, = alot has already happened!)
(THIS IS SO FUN!)
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I'm getting the same thing. The range of vdrop with the shim on varies from .2V to .4V. Noalox helps, adding a bit on the battery top gives me a very slight improvement (we are talking about 0.05 MAYBE 0.1V rarely) I haven't tried modding the firing pin with the shim, it's next on my list but I'm in no rush since the brass shim is already giving me such great performance.
I'm keeping a close eye on this thread, it's getting really fun
. So far I've been making several coils and had no problems. Then again I haven't shorted anything and I do disengage the shim whenever I put a new coil.
don't think so, the plastic black part on the REO has a channel for the plated, it's under pressure so it wouldn't go up / down
The bottom part for the feeding tube would be the length of the stock + what you screw, you'd only attach the feed tube
did something similar on custom build feeder (it's not too good of a mod, one of my first, using wires / electrical switch),
works fine-o there
the jewelry told me they could build any shape, but no threading, so maye I'd have to take the plan to a CNC shop, but I doubt they work with silver
where there is a will....
oorrrr... just for the heck of argument, how about a REO / BF hybrid? an atty like the RM2 built onto the body itself and the only contact point is the bar to the positive of the 510 (the negative being one part with the body)
just tinkering with ideas. I'm already at 4 volts on a .6 ohm, I have only one or twice gone below .5 so I'm at a perfect spot for my device
on a 4.15 V battery off charger, how much better can it get? 4.1?
4.1^2/.6 = 28 watts
4^2/.6 = 26.66
28 - 26.66 = 1.34 watts
100 * 1.34/26.66 = 5% improvement???!?
Time invested on such small gain is not worth it for me at the moment
Unless you keep doing it just for the heck of exploring alternative designs / fun of it it's not worth it, a battery after 10 min / 20 min of use would have already dropped to 4 volts if you are doing SLR, which I understand completely when one has time
Reason why I don't look at dual coils that much, battery life is the next step for me
Now, a blem REO is $115, regular $145, with a little modding I can get that puppy to 4 volts on .6 ohm, which is better than many many high end devices out there
that's why i told you about my plans for my next two REOs, one for DNA20Ding (which I know you don't care much for) and one without the Bottom feeding feature but with 2x 18650 in parallel -> on a sub-ohm you may go 24 hours + with these.
I mean, 2x these: $12.77 Panasonic NCR18650A 3.7V 3100mAh 18650 Rechargeable Batteries 2-pack - button top / 2-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
or these: $11.66 Panasonic NCR18650 Rechargeable 2900mAh 3.7V 18650 Li-ion Batteries 2-pack - authentic cells / 2-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
and you are talking about a mechanical device with 5800 / 6200 mAh of charge!
that mod would use two screws at the bottom (one where the feeding bottle is) and a custom flat bar at the top, below the black plastic and to which the firing bar connect, something that I can place and remove at will (if I really miss BF on a second, third REO?)
Batteries in parallel last twice as much because the circuit demands (both being equal) half the amps from each
I don't have hard numbers of equations to back this up, but with less amps being demanded from each battery the drops maybe just a tad smaller. You still have the same amps at most contacts, but will have half of it at each battery + / - contact. EDIT: I may be wrong here.
And then you have the internal resistance of the battery, but when you are measuring 0.0x ohms that should make no real difference that I could imagine
just tinkering with ideas. I'm already at 4 volts on a .6 ohm, I have only one or twice gone below .5 so I'm at a perfect spot for my device
on a 4.15 V battery off charger, how much better can it get? 4.1?
4.1^2/.6 = 28 watts
4^2/.6 = 26.66
28 - 26.66 = 1.34 watts
100 * 1.34/26.66 = 5% improvement???!?
Time invested on such small gain is not worth it for me at the moment
Unless you keep doing it just for the heck of exploring alternative designs / fun of it it's not worth it, a battery after 10 min / 20 min of use would have already dropped to 4 volts if you are doing SLR, which I understand completely when one has time
Reason why I don't look at dual coils that much, battery life is the next step for me
Now, a blem REO is $115, regular $145, with a little modding I can get that puppy to 4 volts on .6 ohm, which is better than many many high end devices out there
that's why i told you about my plans for my next two REOs, one for DNA20Ding (which I know you don't care much for) and one without the Bottom feeding feature but with 2x 18650 in parallel -> on a sub-ohm you may go 24 hours + with these.
I mean, 2x these: $12.77 Panasonic NCR18650A 3.7V 3100mAh 18650 Rechargeable Batteries 2-pack - button top / 2-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
or these: $11.66 Panasonic NCR18650 Rechargeable 2900mAh 3.7V 18650 Li-ion Batteries 2-pack - authentic cells / 2-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
and you are talking about a mechanical device with 5800 / 6200 mAh of charge!
that mod would use two screws at the bottom (one where the feeding bottle is) and a custom flat bar at the top, below the black plastic and to which the firing bar connect, something that I can place and remove at will (if I really miss BF on a second, third REO?)
Batteries in parallel last twice as much because the circuit demands (both being equal) half the amps from each
I don't have hard numbers of equations to back this up, but with less amps being demanded from each battery the drops maybe just a tad smaller. You still have the same amps at most contacts, but will have half of it at each battery + / - contact. EDIT: I may be wrong here.
And then you have the internal resistance of the battery, but when you are measuring 0.0x ohms that should make no real difference that I could imagine
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dhomes. You're totally right. Gaining back ~70-90% of the V-drop is pretty much it for the battle. Yes, I am in it for the fiddling, now. Also, tho, wanting to contribute to the general consumption version with #s and ideas. Nonetheless, I also have thought of the "HYBRID edition" concept (as, I'm sure, many of us have). The REO is IDEAL for a hybrid version; because the juice storage and feeding is isolated anyway. (unlike a Genny, where the tank stays with the atty). Really good point!!! If I were making mods; I would be looking real hard at coming out with a BF w/ integrated atomizer. (all parts, like positive post, etc, replaceable) I think, in the not so long run, that would also be the most cost efficient for fabrication and at retail.
Battery life, and your point about 4.0V turning into 3.9V with a little use. This is one of the main reasons why I'm so excited about my brass shim thing. What I've pretty much settled into, is building a coil that hits pretty dang hard on a fresh battery, vaping it down to 3.8V and then kicking in the shim and "power boosting". . . . gliding right on down to about 3.65V before battery change. This has actually been the biggest practical benefit of my mod.
So, math people, compare battery efficiency in a coil that is 0.2Ω higher in resistance to getting an extra 0.2V of capacity out of your battery. (cause I have no idea, off the top of my head)
So, math people, compare battery efficiency in a coil that is 0.2Ω higher in resistance to getting an extra 0.2V of capacity out of your battery. (cause I have no idea, off the top of my head)
That integrated concept has been speculated upon previously - perhaps a couple months ago. Can't remember the thread it was in, but rest assured, Rob is thinking ahead.
If I find it, I'll link to the pertinent part.
Here's the post about the "all in one".
If I find it, I'll link to the pertinent part.
Here's the post about the "all in one".
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Do any of you have any experience with silver nickel ? This seems promising as a positive contact
Some info I found while researching
Silver-nickel contacts provide significant advantages over the brass materials used on most other types of plugs and receptacles:
Silver-nickel maintains its low contact resistance and superior electrical properties even after oxidation and tarnishing.
Silver-nickel withstands arcing very well and only welds at extremely high pressure and temperature.
Thanks to the influence of the nickel, silver-nickel provides excellent wear resistance.
Silver-nickel performs well in and withstands wet and corrosive environments.
The combination of the silver-nickel material with spring-loaded ....-style design makes the contacts ideal for repetitive making and breaking of connections under load.
Some info I found while researching
Silver-nickel contacts provide significant advantages over the brass materials used on most other types of plugs and receptacles:
Silver-nickel maintains its low contact resistance and superior electrical properties even after oxidation and tarnishing.
Silver-nickel withstands arcing very well and only welds at extremely high pressure and temperature.
Thanks to the influence of the nickel, silver-nickel provides excellent wear resistance.
Silver-nickel performs well in and withstands wet and corrosive environments.
The combination of the silver-nickel material with spring-loaded ....-style design makes the contacts ideal for repetitive making and breaking of connections under load.
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^^^This is what I have been gently trying to persuade the Mod Master to make. Rob has alluded to this a couple of times and I really hope it's in the works.
The Grand+RM2 are a near perfect combination, but lets face it. The RM2 is reliant on a Chinese atty. We've already seen the manufacturer CAN change the design at will. Who know how they are going to muck it up next? All that means is that Rob will need to make further modifications to suit our needs. Worse yet, whose's to say they wont just stop producing it all together. Then Rob is back to square one.
Personally, I think Rob can keep the Grand as is. Its the 'general purpose' Reo. Compatible with so many BF RBA's and most cartos and attys. The hybrid design will be a fine tuned sports car, simple, purely mechanical, but with all of these adjustments made to eek out every last drop of efficiency and performance. A fuse/better/different spring, a more conductive firing pin, and minimal connections to the atomizer section should get us everything we want.
When these 'improvements' are proven in the hybrid, they can then be ported over the the Grand 2.0.
At leasts that my dream. Whaddaya say Rob? Can we make this happen?
Lets think about this hybrid design a bit more... Would you need a catch cup? I'm thinking no. That would further reduce the over all height of the mod. I still like the idea of a ceramic base, and a screw on cap, but I can see the benefits of a friction held cap in terms of options as to coil and air hole placement. Caps could be anodized/powder coated to match the body or contrasted in a different finish just like the doors are offered with contrasting finishes.
What about the wire posts. I would love to see a new design that is simple to use, maybe doesn't require tools, and stays put after the wire is tightened. I have a big pet peeve about discovering a screw has come loose, then fishing out my screw driver to tighten it back down.
What about offering a larger battery option? would a 26650 hybrid Reo be too big?
Sorry, just thinking out loud here. Hijack over...
What about the wire posts. I would love to see a new design that is simple to use, maybe doesn't require tools, and stays put after the wire is tightened. I have a big pet peeve about discovering a screw has come loose, then fishing out my screw driver to tighten it back down.
What about offering a larger battery option? would a 26650 hybrid Reo be too big?
Sorry, just thinking out loud here. Hijack over...
Its definitely going to happen . I agree with you on the rm2 issues they have changed it 3 times since I started modifying them . Every time it wasn't for the better I ended up putting more time into the atomizer to make it right . The hardest part for me is time . I put 70 to 80 hours in a week now and its not enough .
Sounds great, specially porting the improvements of a hybrid REO to a Grand 2.0, although I think releasing a kit for it would be easier since what you are improving can be manually changed by the user easy enough. Or if Rob really likes the improved version release both the kit for those who already own the Grand and start making the Grand with the improvements already in it.
I'm not a fan of hybrids, since I like to swap attys all the time, but I'd get at least one just for the sake of having a different REO.
I'm not a fan of hybrids, since I like to swap attys all the time, but I'd get at least one just for the sake of having a different REO
.
I will look into gold plating the center post the positive contact and the spring . I am curios to see how much of a improvement this would be over the current set up .
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