And where, where on earth do you get THIS kind of service and dedication?
Rock 'n roll, Rob! I'm looking forward to see what you come up with
- Status
Rock 'n roll, Rob! I'm looking forward to see what you come up with
Sony source: Sony US18650VTC3 High Drain 30A Rechargeable Lithium Li on 18650 Battery 1600mAh | eBay
AW 1600: Test of AW IMR 18650 1600mAh (Red)
AW 2000: Test of AW IMR 18650 2000mAh (Red)
Pannie 2900: ENERPOWER+ 18650 PROTECTED 3.7V 2900 mAh: Amazon.co.uk: Amazon.co.uk:
LOL these are not the most reputable sources, so if there is a better site with some actual data sheets let me know
AW 1600: Test of AW IMR 18650 1600mAh (Red)
AW 2000: Test of AW IMR 18650 2000mAh (Red)
Pannie 2900: ENERPOWER+ 18650 PROTECTED 3.7V 2900 mAh: Amazon.co.uk: Amazon.co.uk:
LOL these are not the most reputable sources, so if there is a better site with some actual data sheets let me know
Oh, yeah, there it is in lygte . . . . . . Samsung 0.04Ω . . . . NICE!
I don't know about E-bay sources tho. . . ↑that↑ samsung, right there . . . . .0.015Ω . . . . .on E-bay.
I don't know about E-bay sources tho. . . ↑that↑ samsung, right there . . . . .0.015Ω . . . . .on E-bay.
That is TOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO cool! (i'm bristling with excitement) It's one thing to experiment and play, it's a whole 'nother to watch it get taken to the next level!
Oh yes, I at least will continue to work on this, because I want to see it succeed.
Thanks for the feedback, Rob!
I have a couple new Grand buttons on the way at the moment, made out of Teflon (PTFE), stable up to >250C. We'll see how that goes. If they are good enough to withstand the heat from the firing pin at 7+ amps, we will be one step farther.
Thanks for the feedback, Rob!
I have a couple new Grand buttons on the way at the moment, made out of Teflon (PTFE), stable up to >250C. We'll see how that goes. If they are good enough to withstand the heat from the firing pin at 7+ amps, we will be one step farther.
Rock on ROB!
only thing I'm pondering is how the bars will fare for those os us living in the coast / next to the sea / beaches (like me)
High salinity in the air will sulfate the bar and degrade its conductivity.
I was aware of this but being it so cheap here I didnt (still don't) care much about having to replace it now and then
Last edited:
This sounds like a great option definitely keep me informed . I could make button out of wood but this could cause problem with humidity .
I was wondering the same thing myself there are other options to . Anything I do will have to be tested before I make any changes . It looks like there are plenty of guys willing to do some beta testing
Im really liking that teflon button idea, if its anything like my favorite teflon cooking spoon it will work fantastic! where do you find such a button, is the REO button pretty standard?
I am all about silvers high conductivity, but im curious if aluminum may be able to hold up to day to day abuse better?
Sign me UP as an Alpha, Beta... Zeta tester! I have a very nice brand new fluke O-scope that is waiting to be used. I also have been working on a way to mount a 7A fuse that is only 3mm x 0.8mm (TINY), I have a couple of designs in AutoCAD if anybody is interested.
I am all about silvers high conductivity, but im curious if aluminum may be able to hold up to day to day abuse better?
Sign me UP as an Alpha, Beta... Zeta tester! I have a very nice brand new fluke O-scope that is waiting to be used. I also have been working on a way to mount a 7A fuse that is only 3mm x 0.8mm (TINY), I have a couple of designs in AutoCAD if anybody is interested.
The Teflon buttons are turned down from solid material - a modder here in Germany made these because it is quite expensive to pay 26 dollars shipping for a 4 dollar button - and they are actually not a very complicated design. Also, they are white.
I get another type as well, in red =)
I get another type as well, in red =)
Count me in for Alpha, Beta, Release Candidate and Golden Master testing
I don't know if you'd like to look into what Super-T-manufacturing does at the contacts, Rhodium does not corrode nor sulfates
hey SeapNap, had not read before posting mine :x
anyhow, I had the idea of running a FEA analysis for the fun of it for one of my mods, if you have the Cad drawings already, could you export to IGES and share? I from there I'd only have to mesh and play with it a bit
btw:
Electrical & Electronics
Rob, would it be too expensive to offer a REO 'sub-ohm' or 'performance' edition made out of copper?
I mean, it's not uncommon for high end manufacturers (Super-T, iHybrid, etc) to offer titanium edition of their devices.
Would be great being able to plate the whole thing in silver
Also, I do live next to the coast, near the beach, count me in reporting how my plate is behaving over time
I mean, it's not uncommon for high end manufacturers (Super-T, iHybrid, etc) to offer titanium edition of their devices.
Would be great being able to plate the whole thing in silver
Also, I do live next to the coast, near the beach, count me in reporting how my plate is behaving over time
Last edited:
The spring, fire pin and connector are a much bigger issue than the material of the body - aluminium is twice as conductive as brass, about 10 or 20 times as conductive as stainless steel and 60% as conductive as copper. It doesn't add much to the resistance of the setup.
Bumblebees have been shown in studies to perform superbly when enlisted for BETA testing activities!
(MUST PLAY!!!)
(MUST PLAY!!!)
oh, far smarter friends of mine . . . . . having been messing with this stuff a little, I'm finding that the 510 connection needs looking at as well. I can gain .4V at the spring with a piece of brass foil and .2V at the pin w/ same (+shape). Having done that, as I take measurements of new coil builds, I find a lot of variation in the 510/atty arena. I would love to see a Positive 510 stem that was more conductive and had more (and more certain) contact area with the atty. The way it is "dadoed"/channelled/split and the way the RM2 pos. contact is split, can leave sometimes very little contact of brass on chrome plating. What would milk my cow would be an Adjustable post in the mod's 510 with a finish (like silver plating) that would do justice at the juncture with the firing pin (if the firing pin is going to be "all that", shouldn't it pass the torch to something more worthy than chrome plating?) The firing pin's hole and complementary post stem section could be the same diameter; but then the shoulder on the post (that the pin is screwed/wedged up against) could be beefier (wider) for more contact surface area.
Perhaps the positive stem could consist of an outer sleeve of aluminum, silver plated brass, etc and a fine threaded (very low pitch) insert that can be adjusted up or down and makes contact with the atty.
Perhaps the positive stem could consist of an outer sleeve of aluminum, silver plated brass, etc and a fine threaded (very low pitch) insert that can be adjusted up or down and makes contact with the atty.
Last edited:
Yeah, Chris, I also think that changing the body's material composition is more bling than necessity. At least until we are chasing the last few hundredths of a volt.
Firing Pin-wise, tho. . . . . Someone correct me . . . I read where aluminum has great conductivity; but it seemed to say "by weight". Therefore, it requires some mass to compete. The REO body works, as it has plenty of aluminum mass; but wouldn't something as thin and fine as the firing pin perhaps not conduct much better than brass etc.
Also, as best as I can measure/tell, the body and all that doesn't have much V-drop in and of itself. It's the connections!
Firing Pin-wise, tho. . . . . Someone correct me . . . I read where aluminum has great conductivity; but it seemed to say "by weight". Therefore, it requires some mass to compete. The REO body works, as it has plenty of aluminum mass; but wouldn't something as thin and fine as the firing pin perhaps not conduct much better than brass etc.
Also, as best as I can measure/tell, the body and all that doesn't have much V-drop in and of itself. It's the connections!
Chris, i know it would be minimal, but as electricity takes the path of minimal resistance it would transfer through the internal wall's painting
But it won't account for much, I'm just calling it extreme edition (already had the idea of building a one of a kind mod/bf like that for myself) for a reason
I mean, if you properly silver plate bronze (would need two or three passes) how would it look?
I myself prefer jewelry made out of silver than yellow gold, only white gold matches Silver in my rank if preferences (Given, it's a matter of taste and we are all different here, Gold and Purple are of two god's forsaken color, matter of taste, don't flame me if your fav device is of this color, and I am making a generalization about ANYTHING finished in those two
it's at the contacts, indeed, it's the reason why high end mechs come plated in gold / silver / rhodium / iridium (ok, made that one) and the ones with the least drop also add the most contact area possible
Take a look at a mid-price mech mod clone (by mid, I say $50 ~ 90, given that there are plenty of chinese $20 ~ $30):
The EH EA Mod Clone, it's a clone of the Electric Angel which is said to be a clone of the GGTS (not quite, but close)
the EH is 1/4 the price of the EA, but all its contact points are gold plated, search youtube for a vdrop test on those, minimal, it gives almost the battery charge, beats the mod it was cloned from
Also, the negative contact has a very decent contact area without hotspring
I mentioned bronze body as it lends itself a lot more to plating if you want to get into that, that's why I mentioned other devices with a 'titanium edition' costing 4x the price (*cough* iHybrid pure TI edition)
they are not doing it because of conductivity, but rather as collector editions (at most you are saving a bit in weight, but the original is already aluminum so it's barely nada)
So I created a very simple CAD drawing of two metal plates with a sheet of plastic sandwiched in between with a screw hole and cut outs for a Littlefuse 0458007 7A fuse, this fuse does not blow untill 10.5A. It is very crude drawing and does not have any specific metals associated with it.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/prksd2og9n1wihc/t-13o6rp9h
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/prksd2og9n1wihc/t-13o6rp9h
- Status
Similar threads
