A pdib mod :>p

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Geoscouter

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I suspect that this modification has rendered the safety of the collapsible spring useless. You are essentially short circuiting around the spring so that the majority of the electron flow is going through the shim instead of the spring. The reason the spring works is that it has some resistance and when a large enough current passes through it heats up and collapses. I think this is a dangerous modification. I bet Rob would agree.


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pdib

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I suspect that this modification has rendered the safety of the collapsible spring useless. You are essentially short circuiting around the spring so that the majority of the electron flow is going through the shim instead of the spring. The reason the spring works is that it has some resistance and when a large enough current passes through it heats up and collapses. I think this is a dangerous modification. I bet Rob would agree.


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Aha. Thank you. I don't/didn't know if it was caused by simple heat, or heat generated by resistance. So, pray tell, what degree of electron flow might cause it to collapse? It seems to hold up fine at 11 Amps. (.3Ω @ 3.3V)
 

ChrisEU

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Not good, sorry.

The resistance you are bypassing is exactly what heats up the coil (edit: spring) and lets it collapse.
Bypassing the resistance means bypassing the security.

I could see replacing the spring by a fuse (10 amp super quick should do), but these too have resistances, which are not as high, though.
 
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darkzero

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This is what I mean, brass shim-wise. I bought this years ago for a pinhole camera project. Pro'ly didn't cost much .. . . . now its free :p (just sitting there)




Did you get that from that H store too? If yes, man I really wish I had a store like that locally! I have steel shim stock in various thousandths for shimming my machines made by that very same company!
 

NicoHolic

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This mod adds a path for current parallel to the spring, which needs X current to heat up in order to collapse. We don't know X. Current will flow in both the spring and the brass shim stock in proportion to their resistances. Total resistance = 1/(1/spring resistance + 1/brass resistance).

This mod obviously reduces the amount of current in the spring, during both normal and shorted operation. It will allow a greater amount of current to flow through the battery in the even of a short, causing it to heat up more. Given there is a maximum current even on a shorted battery, it may well limit current through the spring to less than what is needed to collapse it, rendering the hot spring ineffective as a safety measure in the event of a short.

I don't recommend doing this for normal day-to-day operation until we know much more about it.
 
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Big Hitter

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Cool, I'll pass but I guess there's no stopping folks from trying.

REOville is starting to look like everywhere else on ECF ....... Brass this - Silver that - voltage drop this - .4 ohm that ....

Have at it, I'll sit back an watch while vaping my 3y old REO stock that is even more satisfying now than it was back then.
 

FeistyAlice

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I suspect that this modification has rendered the safety of the collapsible spring useless. You are essentially short circuiting around the spring so that the majority of the electron flow is going through the shim instead of the spring. The reason the spring works is that it has some resistance and when a large enough current passes through it heats up and collapses. I think this is a dangerous modification. I bet Rob would agree.


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Agree. Shim needs to collapse enough for battery to drop down. Might as well not have the spring so no safety factor as per Roberts design. Risky!!

My first degree is Physics BTW, so some theoretical background.

Feisty Alice

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NicoHolic

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...A hard short experiment may help to answer this concern.

I'd want more than one data point, though. I'd test with batteries at an under-fire potential of about 2.7-2.8V to ensure continued safe operation at lower charge levels. I'd consider any batteries used for these tests as potentially expendable (and certainly the hot springs).

I'd do this with a shorted 510 adapter rather than an RM2 to prevent damaging any atty insulation. Even at this, the insulation of the 510 in the mod potentially may be compromised.

Safety measures: face shield over glasses, heavy gloves, non-synthetic clothing with lab apron. If you think you might gasp if a battery vents, consider a respirator. Do this under a hood or outside. Wrap loops of tape around the battery top and bottom to be able to extract it with gloves on if necessary. Hope for the best, be prepared for the worst.
 
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jcalis1394

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That's a pretty damn nice experiment. Such a big improvement with such a non-intrusive add-on. Looking forward to seeing this progress!
Pardon my ignorance, but can someone explain to me the purpose of doing something like this? Are we trying to get more juice out of the battery?
Well, mechanicals and sub-ohm go hand by hand. REO is a bit of a special case, given that a micro coil at 1.0-1.2 ohm will give you so much flavor, TH and vapor that you really don't *need* more. But it's always fun and sometimes delicious/ridiculous to vape at 25+ watts. The whole idea is just to get more wattage by reducing the voltage drop under load.
 

Big Hitter

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Shim stock isn't really needed ..... Just grab yourself a piece of wire and do the same thing.
Its flexible enough to make you think the spring will still collapse ....... Although I'm pretty sure it wouldn't with the current being diverted through either shim or wire.

Or sit back and vape a top notch mod and watch other people try these things to get a 20 dollar clone working up to snuff.
 

upsetter21

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No doubt whatsoever that this bypasses the hot spring. In an overcurrent condition (ie. short circuit) the spring may collapse, but the brass would remain and would potentially continue the circuit.

BTW I use similar brass shim rolled into all my side button mechs ( exc. 69 mod) and experience reduced volt drop as a result every time.
 
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