Well, they use nickel to stabilize the cobalt. (?) I feel very confident that it's safe, for other people. I'na wait and see.
- Status
So when using mods like pdib, and dhomes, what should my next battery purchase be (currently have AW IMR 1600): Sony 1600mah 30A, or the panasonic 2900mah? I'm torn because the sony's have the clear advantage of performance, but the pannies have a rediculously long life. I feel like with the pannies I would go though almost 2 bottles (12ml) of fluid before the battery runs out, and with the sonys I won't get the full benefit of the performance because right now my sweet spot is running a 1.2ohm micro coil on 28awg R1. Maybe I need to experiment more with coils.
In the end im sure ill be getting both anyway, im just curious on your guy's take.
In the end im sure ill be getting both anyway, im just curious on your guy's take.
well, sir, I haven't tried all those batteries; but any one of them will certainly suffice. If the Pannies are protected, I would skip that. Why use something that needs protection, when you can use something that doesn't? (also, never add complexity when you don't need to). If you want to run in the REO config., Rob did design the shape of the positive contact mechanism for a button top. If you are running your fuse on top anyway, maybe the flat top will be easier to rig. (I know my MNKEs were actually a snidgledoodle longer than my AWs).
ANYHOW! . . .. dhomes . .. . . . . he's run more battery varieties than me.
Damn p-dibby that beast was frying up some serious aggression and foggage on basically a dead battery.
I may have to revisit my 27 ga Kanthal A1
I may have to revisit my 27 ga Kanthal A1
If you are at 1.25 go for the pannies, the grey / green ones are perfect-o for that application (cgr18650ch, youcdan get 4 off amazon for less than 30 bucks shipped) the ncr18650pd are just as good, some people say better
You may need to solder a nipple to the top of them though, although i had no issues with my stock reo the button does required a firmer punch for full contact
Last edited:
fyi: Amazon.com: 4pcs Panasonic CGR18650CH 3.6 Volt Li-ion Battery 2250 mAh: Everything Else
theseare IMR @ 2900 mah
$13.62 Panasonic NCR18650PD 18650 3.6V 2900mAH Rechargeable Li-ion Batteries (2-Pack) 2-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
and ordered a set oh these, 15 Amp, 2000 mah, but dont have them yet:
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1443728
the sonys, which have been sold out for a while:
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0...y-us18650vtc3-18650-1600mah-3-7v-rechargeable
theseare IMR @ 2900 mah
$13.62 Panasonic NCR18650PD 18650 3.6V 2900mAH Rechargeable Li-ion Batteries (2-Pack) 2-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
and ordered a set oh these, 15 Amp, 2000 mah, but dont have them yet:
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1443728
the sonys, which have been sold out for a while:
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0...y-us18650vtc3-18650-1600mah-3-7v-rechargeable
Au revoir...Vitesse de Dieu!
edit: I'm an idiot. Ignore this post. It was meant for another thread. Damn multiple tabs.
edit: I'm an idiot. Ignore this post. It was meant for another thread. Damn multiple tabs.
Last edited:
Au revoir...Vitesse de Dieu!
edit: I'm an idiot. Ignore this post. It was meant for another thread. Damn multiple tabs.
I love it! Can I keep it?
Lol! Of course. That was actually meant for the B. Cloudz thread that was abruptly closed.
Not to detract from the trend of conversation here ▲ . .. . But I've finalized my top end (firing pin) mod for now. (Yes, it's the same as in Darkzero's thread. And made with use of his wonderful jig.)
Total V-drop is hovering around 0.2V on a .4Ω build as well as a .6Ω. I vaped a battery down to 3.63 Volts, with performance rivaling 3.85V before modding. So, instead of a .35V vaping window (battery life), I'm going from 4.15 to 3.65 (.55V window) in my exploitation of battery capacity.
Here it is. Time will tell if it's a viable build for maintenance, sparking, etc.
But I've finalized my top end (firing pin) mod for now. (Yes, it's the same as in Darkzero's thread. And made with use of his wonderful jig.)Total V-drop is hovering around 0.2V on a .4Ω build as well as a .6Ω. I vaped a battery down to 3.63 Volts, with performance rivaling 3.85V before modding. So, instead of a .35V vaping window (battery life), I'm going from 4.15 to 3.65 (.55V window) in my exploitation of battery capacity.
Here it is. Time will tell if it's a viable build for maintenance, sparking, etc.
Last edited:
And, so, complete here . . . .. and indeed . . .. "til we see again" and "godspeed" my merry REOnauts!
good deal pdlib, nice to see you roll
want to make a bet as to how your REO will look like a year from now?
want to make a bet as to how your REO will look like a year from now?
Ok...this was fairly straight forward. I did mine slightly different. I used a copper shim, cut to width of the firing pin. I didnt get fancy with a pdib curl since the copper is a bit thicker. I brought the copper strip from the atty post then around the pointed tip, formed a rounded end and the tucked the remainder underneath the protective silicon sheath. I picked up ~.1v underload (mod vs. non-mod).
Non-firing position:
Firing position:
Non-firing position:
Firing position:
The resettable fuses are here - and boy, are they huge for higher amperages! For practical reasons, we should make do with 10A / 16V. The 13A rated ones don't fit on the bottom of the Grand =) But they are all very thin, the 10A ones will fit fine under the bottle.
Pics and application and results in a couple of hours.
Pics and application and results in a couple of hours.
Ohhhhh Kay - results:
The 10A / 16V and 13A / 16V PTCs are too big - the button melts before they trip, these are unusable for us.
But I ordered a sample of SMD PTCs rated 3A / 6V and they look promising. They trip around 5-6A / 3.6 V which means they are fine until 0.8 Ohms or so. These could very well replace the spring in standard Grands, because we shouldn't really go lower than that.
The SMD PTCs are very practical, because there is a nice way to use them - as a firing pin - I just bent one flat and shoved it under the silicon of the firing pin - which works wonderfully. With that in place I could use a sturdy spring without hotspringyness on the negative.
The added resistance is 0.015 - 0.048 ohms, depending on current.
If the amperage is not enough, the radial PTCs (with legs) come in a variety of lower denominations, something like 3-5A / 16V should provide all we need.
My camera is out of battery - will share pics later today.
The 10A / 16V and 13A / 16V PTCs are too big - the button melts before they trip, these are unusable for us.
But I ordered a sample of SMD PTCs rated 3A / 6V and they look promising. They trip around 5-6A / 3.6 V which means they are fine until 0.8 Ohms or so. These could very well replace the spring in standard Grands, because we shouldn't really go lower than that.
The SMD PTCs are very practical, because there is a nice way to use them - as a firing pin - I just bent one flat and shoved it under the silicon of the firing pin - which works wonderfully. With that in place I could use a sturdy spring without hotspringyness on the negative.
The added resistance is 0.015 - 0.048 ohms, depending on current.
If the amperage is not enough, the radial PTCs (with legs) come in a variety of lower denominations, something like 3-5A / 16V should provide all we need.
My camera is out of battery - will share pics later today.
- Status
Similar threads
