Adhesives thread

[mikepetro]

OK, got tired of hijacking Mamu's threads (sorry Mamu) so I am starting a new one.

I was wondering if I get you all to share your experience with various adhesives. What worked, AND what didnt work. Ideally, I would like to get a full blown thread going for lots of mod applications.

Specifically I am wondering about these applications:

• Aluminum to aluminum
• Mystery metal to aluminum
• Plastic to aluminum
• Plastic to plastic
• DNA20 to whatever
• Mystery metal to mystery metal
• Glass to plastic (ie the DNA screen to Bap's bezel)

Feel free to add your own application(s).

Extra points for adhesives that can be removed later but hold fast as long as you need them to.

 

[Nermal]

I'd like to say "It ain't rocket science", but it might come close.

 

[mikepetro]

Thanks Nermal, I do appreciate the complexities involved, I have dealt with adhesives in other applications and have experienced some of the challenges.

That is why I am asking for the help of all who traveled before me.

Could some of you please chime in about what you have found that works well for this or that?

 

[Traver]

Don't really know what works for what. I do know that the liquids we use will dissolve epoxy and crazy glue.

 

[retird]

hum...... I only build my mods to stay together and removable adhesive does not interest me.....I do not spend much time researching adhesives ...... I have had great results with these two......

J-B Weld | Original Cold Weld Formula Steel Reinforced Epoxy

Super Glue | Loctite Adhesives

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Great idea for a reference thread.

Limited experience here.

In general use JB will hold about anything together but is pretty much permanent.

Hot glue and aluminum don't play well together in my experience.

Gorilla glue will stick to aluminum (at least roughened up, I didn't try smooth aluminum.

Gorilla glue will however kill a tactile switch when it expands and gets inside it.

Hot glue will then stick to the Gorilla glue that is still on the aluminum after ripping off the switch.

 

[mikepetro]

Great idea for a reference thread.

Limited experience here.

In general use JB will hold about anything together but is pretty much permanent.

Hot glue and aluminum don't play well together in my experience.

Gorilla glue will stick to aluminum (at least roughened up, I didn't try smooth aluminum.

Gorilla glue will however kill a tactile switch when it expands and gets inside it.

Hot glue will then stick to the Gorilla glue that is still on the aluminum after ripping off the switch.

Hehehe so, pretreat with Gorilla Glue if you want to use a hot glue gun... Got it!

BTW, I love it...... Straight from the school of hard vapes to be sure.....

 

[asdaq]

I've had very good success with epoxy putty, both with holding different materials together and for e-liquid resistance. Being as you can shape and mold it where you want it, I'm sure you could tack a DNA board to something and even apply small round pancakes of it to the back of the screen and cradle.

I would not place it between the screen and cradle, and I would not place it in contact with juice supply or in the chamber. When it comes time to remove for servicing or whatever, you can pick away at it with a sharp metal tool and it leaves behind only a thin residue.

 

[bapgood]

Ha....found it....I know Mr Mundy had asked a similar question....here is one of mamu's posts

I apply a very thin line of clear epoxy (VersaChem 46409 5 Minute Epoxy) along the top edge and bottom edge of the display using the tip of a toothpick. Then I insert the display into the cradle and hold til the epoxy is dry. I do have the display lit when I do this so I can see to center left-to-right while the epoxy is drying (I have a breadboarded batt that I hook up to the DNA + and - input just for this purpose).

I adhere the frame on the inside of the case using gel epoxy (VersaChem 46509 5 Minute Gel Epoxy) all around the edges of the frame and on the underside of the display using the tip of a toothpick - when I'm done the whole works is covered in gel epoxy. If I ever need to remove the DNA and/or frame/cradle, I use a heat gun and that softens the gel epoxy so that I can remove the whole thing without damage to the DNA, the frame/cradle, or the case.

Hot glue essentially does the same thing as the gel epoxy, but hot glue gets gooey when using a heat gun to soften and ends up a big mess, gel epoxy does not as it just gets really soft and pliable.

All other parts (switches, connector, etc) I use VersaChem 47809 Plastic Welding to adhere inside the case.

I buy the epoxy at jbtoolsales.com - great prices and fast shipping. Local auto stores (like AutoZone) and home improvement stores (like Lowes) also have VersaChem epoxy.

 

[bapgood]

I use some 5 minute and 30 minute 2 part epoxy from the RC days, also micro balloons to mix in for applications that need filling/building up. The epoxy seems to adhere to most anything, but mamu source is documented and tried and true.

I solder anything metal I can. I have a low temp aluminum solder and flux kit that I haven't used but DrMA and Mamu have used it and says it works well, but keep your tip clean. I also got a stainless solder and flux kit from a local welding supply place that is just awesome.

Plastic (especially Delrin) usually does good with CA (superglue), however isn't so much removable. Most plastics play nice with epoxy when they are scuffed up.

 

[mikepetro]

Now we are rolling, thanks everyone, and lets keep it coming. This is great stuff!

 

[tharper2202]

So far in my very short time building mods (just finished my first one. Can't wait to finish my next), I have used versachem 2 part plastic welding epoxy. It will adhere plastic to metal. I used it to secure my connector in place in my plastic box and it isn't going anywhere.

 

[rolf]

my first mods were abs plastic and epoxy did not work that great so tried abs cement used in plumbing cut boxes to shorten ...great
superglue got two brands ..one is useless the other is super ! [ permatex ]...used on fiberglass and corean counter top material and some others.. 5 min epoxy from harbor freight is ok for some things to but is more a two min epoxy ! more strong is jb weld used the steel version , longer open time and cures over night . to pot an 510 connector in epoxy used a quarter inch section of a tube to form a dam which 5 min epoxy ...after that is hard poored in a clear resin to imbed ..or if you want to remove the dam tack it with locktite stick and seal outdoor adhesive it seals great epoxy wont leake out to ruin a project then remove easy with exacto knife ..this is a rubber type glue I am sure going to use it some more in other application .
now if you make a paste of epoxy and micro balloons for a filler and form it around a part to fit anything to mate perfectly and come apart this is a trick to use...scotch tape !! on the pieces you don't want to glue epoxy wont glue to it and it comes right off.
for fiberglass layup I use max clear hp...usda certified food grade!! wanted to build some attys w it made one e juce did not seem to effect it ...which is a 2 to 1 epoxy [ ebay ] hope it helps a little .

 

[Nermal]

Something here jogged my memory. I've had a couple of non vape related projects that didn't work well with anything - till I tried a tube of Shoe Goo. That stuff is really clingy, though I've no idea if it will stand up to juice.

 

[emus]

Soldered 510 connectors, Spring, tin tactile switch, and Copper pipe battery holder to my 1-wire Altoids mod. Used it full time for a couple years. It got dropped and beat to heck but never came apart. One tough pocket friendly mod. I still use it part time.

 

[vewdew]

Something here jogged my memory. I've had a couple of non vape related projects that didn't work well with anything - till I tried a tube of Shoe Goo. That stuff is really clingy, though I've no idea if it will stand up to juice.

Now that you mention shoe goo I have used Plumbers goop for several years when I build my PC watercooling and it does gling very well to any plastics and metals, only drawback is that takes 24 hours to fully cure.

 

[mikepetro]

Now that you mention shoe goo I have used Plumbers goop for several years when I build my PC watercooling and it does gling very well to any plastics and metals, only drawback is that takes 24 hours to fully cure.

Plumbers goop, what exactly is that?

 

[asdaq]

aka Plumber's Putty?

 

[bapgood]

Don't forget loctite especially the green stuff....oh and always remember cross threading is better than loctite

 

[northhar]

I use Amazing Goop.. some refer to shoo goo and plumbers goop..Other than taking 24hr to dry it is very clinging as another has stated.. very useful stuff..
Here is a pict and a web link..


Eclectic Products:-Adhesvies-Epoxies-Wood Fillers