Aga t+ wore out evic threads

[erawtik]

Well iv had the aga for a few days and now i cannot screw on any stardust and my aga only turns about a half turn. I put the aga on one of my spinners and it took alot of turns to tighten. Im not worried about replacing the evic head, im wondering if it is gonna do it again because of the evic threading being
a pinch to big or the aga. Anyone else with this problem?

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[Rule62]

I've never had the problem with a rba. I have had previous products, mostly a few clearomizers, that had oversize threads. I just tossed them, rather than force them and mess up the threads on one of my mods. I just chalk it up to lousy Chinese QC.

 

[erawtik]

The only reason i mentioned the aga was the fact it is so heavy.

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[c00lkatz]

I've got an AGA-T+ that I use mostly on a Kamry K100 mechanical mod, but I have used it plenty of times on my evic with no threading problems. Sounds like you cross threaded it by accident. Since the AGA works on a different battery, I would say the evic is messed up. I'm not sure what size 510 threads are, but if you can figure that out you can get a tap (from a tap/die set, used for creating threads in a blank hole) and chase the threads. That should put them back where they're supposed to be.

 

[dirtyrigger]

I believe AGA threads are either a cut hair wider than standard threads or lack of QC is allowing some to leave the factory with burs on them from the machining processes (fresh cut SS would like a saw blade if you looked at it under a microscope). I had the same issue a while back with my AGA stripping the threads on a lavatube. Does the evic have a brass connector? I think the twist connector is made of SS also and if that's true then it would be harder for the AGA strip something of a more equal hardness than something like brass or copper. My LT had a brass connection and i was lucky enough the vendor replaced it under warranty for me, but I'm starting to see it happen on the new one now so i just stoped using the AGA with it before the threads get any worse.

 

[Hello World]

The AGA-T2 threads nicely into the eVic.

 

[dirtyrigger]

YOUR AGA-T threads nicely onto YOUR evic. That's nice to hear but i think the OP is having a different experience.

 

[Hello World]

YOUR AGA-T threads nicely onto YOUR evic. That's nice to hear but i think the OP is having a different experience.

It's informational in the event the OP is looking for another AGA which won't give him threading issues.

Not hard to figure out.

 

[dwcraig1]

I guess this might be still pretty much still on topic here, I bought a stainless steel Sigelei Zmax to use with my Terminators thinking that the head and 510 socket was one piece and stainless like on my Smok Zmax. Turns out that the socket in the Sigelei is brass (Term's threads are SS) and after about 2 months of service the socket is just about loose enough that you could almost push the atomizer into place. I'll be adding a 510 to 510 shorty any day now

 

[fanatic205]

I was at a vape meet this past Sat and two people had AGA-T's and both complained about striping threads on their PV's. They asked me if i ever had a RBA strip the threads, couldnt say that i have but only RBA i have used is a DID got a AGA-T on the way.

 

[budynbuick]

I have had no prob with my AgA-t. Actually, I am impressed with the cut on the threads.

 

[c00lkatz]

A mistake I see people make is over tightening their atomizer/cartomizer. You only want to thread it down far enough for the battery to make contact with the center/positive post, then maybe a slight bit more for snugness. I have never had a threading problem on any device/atomizer combo personally (various ego, lavatube, k100, evic, using ego-t attys, cartos, vivi novas, aga-t+, vision eternity, smok RDA, and more). I suppose it's possible the AGA is messing up threads, but I wouldn't see it being a problem if you don't over tighten.

It's also a good idea to take a paper towel that's damp with either water or alcohol and wipe out your battery connection and atomizer connector. You'll find some black/grey stuff come off (from screwing/unscrewing) which could gunk up the threads and cause threading issues as well.

For future reference, does anyone know the equivalent SAE/Metric size for 510 threads? Would be handy to have a tap and die on hand in case something like this happens in the future.

 

[PhreakySTS9]

I guess this might be still pretty much still on topic here, I bought a stainless steel Sigelei Zmax to use with my Terminators thinking that the head and 510 socket was one piece and stainless like on my Smok Zmax. Turns out that the socket in the Sigelei is brass (Term's threads are SS) and after about 2 months of service the socket is just about loose enough that you could almost push the atomizer into place. I'll be adding a 510 to 510 shorty with Loctite on the threads any day now while I still can

No!!! Don't do this!! Do NOT put loctite on the threads, it will interfere with conductivity! When I first got my GGTB the button kept coming loose, and it started driving me crazy. I started a thread in the GG subforum asking Imeo if I could use loctite to keep it in place and everybody told me "Absolutely not, it won't conduct electricity properly!" Please don't ruin your PV! Try to figure out a different way.

 

[dwcraig1]

No!!! Don't do this!! Do NOT put loctite on the threads, it will interfere with conductivity! When I first got my GGTB the button kept coming loose, and it started driving me crazy. I started a thread in the GG subforum asking Imeo if I could use loctite to keep it in place and everybody told me "Absolutely not, it won't conduct electricity properly!" Please don't ruin your PV! Try to figure out a different way.

I've done this before without any connection problems, using it very sparingly, it is going to come down to doing that or replacing the socket so there isn't much to loose. I wouldn't recommend using it though just to keep in place on a good socket. Just my opinion

OK, I took the other option which is putting the Smok Zmax back into work horse position and sidelining the Sigelei back to it's box for backup duty. Except that it is smaller ID, the Smok Z is a little nicer looking unit anyway. Menu and screen on the Smok is not as nice but is totally familiar to me so no problem there.
And also I was able to get the 510 shorty "locked" down by normal means since I didn't wait till it was too far gone, all is now well

 

[erawtik]

Well got a new head and while there i picked up a air control adapter so it stays in all the time now without worries of stripping the evic again.

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[vpsi333]

I was starting to think it was me. I've stripped the threads on 3 devices since i started using RBA's. And yes a few are AGA's. My next APV will have to have SS Threads

 

[PhreakySTS9]

I've done this before without any connection problems, using it very sparingly, it is going to come down to doing that or replacing the socket so there isn't much to loose. I wouldn't recommend using it though just to keep in place on a good socket. Just my opinion

OK, I took the other option which is putting the Smok Zmax back into work horse position and sidelining the Sigelei back to it's box for backup duty. Except that it is smaller ID, the Smok Z is a little nicer looking unit anyway. Menu and screen on the Smok is not as nice but is totally familiar to me so no problem there.
And also I was able to get the 510 shorty "locked" down by normal means since I didn't wait till it was too far gone, all is now well

I wasn't trying to jump on you, I promise! Just didn't want you to ruin your mod!!

 

[bourzia]

My AGA-T started to mess with my vamo threads. Luckily I noticed and stopped using it.

 

[XfooYen]

You can fix wonky 510 threads with this Metric Thread Die and fix messed up 510 connectors with this Bottoming Tap.

 

[erawtik]

Personally i feel the 510 connection is way way to small these days with the systems we are using now. I feel they need to start making the connections at min the size of the ego because of the size of the tanks. For the cig looking gear 510 was perfect size.