Yeah, that tank cracking is weird. It's pretty thick plastic. It has to be the juice. I've had 3 AGA-Ts going for over a month, all filled with various DIY stuff, and no cracks.
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Yeah, that tank cracking is weird. It's pretty thick plastic. It has to be the juice. I've had 3 AGA-Ts going for over a month, all filled with various DIY stuff, and no cracks.
Maybe that's a knock-off or older tank design.... Tanks from older stock might be polycarb, newer might be polypro.
Been out of stock for a while.
BTW, by sanding the bottom of the top cap, that would make the hole travel further clockwise (looking from top). That's ok if the hole is off to the right of the wick. What if the hole lines up past the wick? You'd have to sand a lot to bring it all the way around, wouldn't you? Is this possible? Anyone done it?
I'm also interested in learning how I can get the hole to line up without backing off.
If it's clear plastic it is probably polycarb, or perhaps PMMA. If it's a hazy plastic it would be polypro. PMMA is more resistant than polycarb but will still react. You also have to take into account heat stress and over-tightening. When I get my AGA-T, I'm just going to fork an extra 10 bones for a pyrex and not worry about it.
I saw that last night. I didn't notice it was out of stock until I went to order one for myself when I got home.
All my current tanks are polypro. I haven't had one crack yet, from juice anyway. I did crack one when I fell of a ladder and the rafter I was carrying fell on my PV. I managed to escape dropping it on my head but the tank on my PV wasn't so lucky. It put some very minor stress cracks in the tank and busted the carto off. That was July. I still use it daily and the cracks haven't gotten any worse. I've thought about glass before but I don't think it would survive with me for very long.
I don't know much about types of plastic. But I've made clear tubes for several of my DiD clones from 12ml syringes, and none have shown any signs of cracking.
Polypropylene is fine ... it's polycarbon that has issues with hot juices and to some extent ... pg itself.
Ended up buying a DuD from COV .... price was just too cheap to ignore. (Under $14 including shipping) Have a motley design tank coming from IBTanked as well.
Ended up buying a DuD from COV .... price was just too cheap to ignore. (Under $14 including shipping) Have a motley design tank coming from IBTanked as well.
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Good post. GotVapes sells the Birkshire and stated that it is 100% SS. Was this your observation? Do they perform the same? If the Birkshire is lighter and a touch smaller, that would be my choice. What say you?
Thank you, sir. I've got an email in to the manufacturer to attempt to glean a bit of info out of them- and to see whether your assumption of the version 2 is indeed correct.
The other possibility is that the Birkshire is not a Youde unit at all, which seems possible but unlikely.
So dsys,
Ever decided what you prefer best? ss mesh vs silica? I frankly don't feel there is much difference myself, at least compared to some claims stating the difference being "night and day". Honestly, I think airflow is the biggest contribution to flavor and vapor production. Those flavor molecules like to "stick" so a tighter or longer distance draw seems to weaken the flavor as a whole. That's not scientific fact, it just seems to be the case in my experience.
Ever decided what you prefer best? ss mesh vs silica? I frankly don't feel there is much difference myself, at least compared to some claims stating the difference being "night and day". Honestly, I think airflow is the biggest contribution to flavor and vapor production. Those flavor molecules like to "stick" so a tighter or longer distance draw seems to weaken the flavor as a whole. That's not scientific fact, it just seems to be the case in my experience.
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I find that both perform the same. They are basically identical except for cosmetics and some manufacturing differences. Personally, I find the Birkshire to be a better made unit, although the first AGA I got was what I believe to be a 'version 1' or made by a different company. Lately the AGA-t's I've seen being sold resemble the Birkshire. They are not 100% stainless steel as advertised - the center post (not positive pin) is made of chromed brass (Birkshire and original AGA-T). I found out the hard way when trying to polish the post - started to turn yellow. Supposedly the AGA-W and soon to be AGA-T2 will have ss centers, have no knurling and the cap will not be threaded (o-rings like the Cobra). There also are spposed to be replacement ss posts which I have not seen yet.
As far as mesh vs silica, I still find the mesh a bit on the overpowering side, although I have been getting used to it. And I still have a couple silicas going - battery life is much better and I never get a brown tank of fluid with them. They gunk up quicker, but a quick soak in water and a dry burn and they are good as new. So I guess I haven't really made my mind up yet... As far as 'night and day' flavor difference, I have to agree with you, not that big a difference - silica is a 'smoother' taste, while ss mesh a bit more 'throaty'.
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If you like Pyrex tanks, stay away from the AGA-W - at least the first revison. ECF is mangling the link so do a search for ".........", they are in the UK and are selling the AGA-W.
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Sanding makes the hole move in a clockwise direction as you stated. I moved my hole appx 1/4 turn in about 15-30 seconds of hand sanding. If trying this I would not go more then about 10 strokes or so and then check fit you should quickly figure out how much its going to take (depending on grit of sandpaper and amount of pressure) without going to far use less strokes and more checking to keep from going to far the closer you get.
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Link to website oversea's selling the AGA-W and also selling a stainless replacement inner tube for the first released AGA that came before this one its threaded on the ends unlike the newer one on AGA-W.
this link should work
hand type this link the proper way useing 1 dot cause it show here with a bunch or look up ......... in the UK
www dot ......... dot co dot uk
this link should work
hand type this link the proper way useing 1 dot cause it show here with a bunch or look up ......... in the UK
www dot ......... dot co dot uk
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s.a.f.e.r.c.i.g.s; remove the dots and put .co.uk after it - ECF will not let us type it the correct way
Then click on rebuildable attys in the menu
^^^^^ I wonder why the block that? Seems odd. Maybe the sites been reported by a few members for shady business practices?
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