and now... The Puck... Cheap Parts and Easy

[TomCatt]

How about a 4 AAA flashlight, I know it's a tube not a box but still using NiMH
Just replaced the switch and a connector in place of the bulb....

Cool Stosh!! What did you use to attach the atty connector to? (Still haven't worked on mine yet. And now BIL wants me to make him a Puck )

 

[Stosh]

Cool Stosh!! What did you use to attach the atty connector to? (Still haven't worked on mine yet. And now BIL wants me to make him a Puck )

The flashlight lens, drilled a hole just big enough for the connector and epoxied it in.
With clear epoxy it even blends with the lens.

Flashlight available here: Amazon.com: Flashlight for Bike - 5pcs 40000mcd White LED: Home Improvement

 

[interestingfellow]

@Tomcatt: thanks! but, it was an emergency sort of thing. as into vaping as I am, I don't want to use different ohm cartos (I want to be able to use any carto I have on any device I have). besides, it's sole purpose(s) were in case both my riva batteries were dead at the same time (I outvape my charger right now cause the batteries are dying) and so I didn't drop said riva battery(s) off the boat(s). and yes, I like parenthesis (google my username and see all the crap i'm into, as well as my overuse of parenthesis).

@Tosh: I searched all the big box stores around me and couldn't find one that used 4 AA batteries, otherwise, I would have totally used that instead. I can re purpose AA's at my house all day long, but not AAA's...

And, some pics BAM

 

[Alžběta Madragana]

Made a puck! Just need to paint it. It looks a little sloppy but paint will cover it up. This is the first mod I have built. I used a 510 connection taken from a bad battery. Rest are 100% rat shack parts.

Wow I have had a serious nic buzz for hours now... think it is time to put it down.....

Hey man, you did a good job. So what if the 'cosmetics' aren't the best. I bet it kicks some .... just like mine does!

 

[carpedebass]

OK, I'm trying to gather the intestinal fortitude to try this out. I have found the parts needed online at Radio Shark, but cannot find the 500Ohm resistor. I have found all around 500, but cannot find exactly 500. Would it be OK to use a 550 or so?

 

[TomCatt]

I use 470ohm resistors. I definitely do not know electronics; but I believe the idea is to drop the voltage going through the LED with the resistor and it doesn't need to be exact. MadVapes sends a 470ohm resistor with their LEDs so that's what I picked up at RS.

ETA: I've been looking at adjustable voltage regulators (the Poorvari mod) and found some 'calculators' for determining the resistors needed with them. Just Googled LED resistor calculator and they're out there too, here's one LED Resistor Calculator

 

[-xirix-]

Speaking of LEDs and whatnot... I've made pucks in a few different configurations now, and always end up trying (and failing) one thing. How would one wire a color changing LED in the puck, so it lights one color when the master switch is on and another color when the almighty vape button is pressed? I'm guessing (and probably wrong) that it would take careful voltage/resistance calculations to get it to change correctly?

X

 

[Stosh]

470 or 500 ohm, either will work fine, slight difference in the brightness of the led but not enough that you would be able to tell

a color changing led is probably not what you're looking for, but rather a dual color led. color changing has two leads and just cycles thru different colors when you press the button. a dual color led WP59SURKSGC Kingbright Standard LED - Through Hole has three leads instead of two. one lead is the common and would connect to ground, one is for one color and would attach to the switch (with a resistor) on the side that is hot when the master switch is on, the other would connect (with resistor) to the hot side of your push button.

 

[-xirix-]

Wrong LED... that would explain why it wasn't working. Thanks for the response!

X

 

[Stosh]

always a few Puck'sters around to help you can pick one up at the Rat Shack even and save shipping...

 

[LukeTheDuke]

ohhh yeah! just built me a puck too! (510)

however iam not satified with my workmanship, can someone please turn me on to an inexpensive or REALLY nice soldering iron??

i gots 2 differant models fro harbour freight
1 30watt electric (ok,works, but is hard to make precise solders)
and 1 butane gas powered (total crap)

my puck works (for now) but i think i could do a WAY better job at the solder joints and wiring

anyone have any input or advise? any solder to recommend using? this rosan core stuff works, but ive been looking around on the net and i see there maybe better out there to use whats your experiances guys an gals?

i was thinking of getting a radio shack kit for the $30 but if its going to preform like the $3 one from harbour freight id rather go with the 3$ one,

 

[carpedebass]

My experience (rather limited really) with soldering is that the iron is really not going to help you out as much as a stable base or a clamp will...and practice. As long as the iron gets good and hot and stays that way, you really aren't going to be much better with an expensive unit. The base units with clamps help immensely though!! They free your hands to do the important stuff. Nothing like juggling an extremely hot iron with one hand while holding rosin and keeping your work still with the other...

 

[Stosh]

+1 on practice and a third hand clamp!! trick is to not under-heat or over-heat the wire.... you should see the rosin smoke just a little bit and the solder flow over the entire joint, quickly remove heat and solder and presto you're done

 

[interestingfellow]

30watts should be good for this, and for general purposes.
Remember, you can get different tips for most soldering irons (i have 3 irons: 1 with micro tip, flat tip, and std cone)
and finally, I prefer not to use lead based solder on the the atty connector: tin solder sucks, and silver solder is harder to work with (requires separate flux), but lead poisoning sucks the worst.

 

[ancient puffer]

+1 on the "helping hands" holder. Harbor freight has one here for $3.19

 

[AtomPunk]

Alright, after looking at building this mod for quite some time I finally put one together today. I use 510's and hadn't ordered any connectors from Madvapes, so I decided to take apart an old Ego battery that I had. I cut the connector down so it was a little bit smaller. I did have to solder some wire leads on to the connector so when I glued it in I wouldn't have to try and solder down in the connector. I used Gorilla glue for the switch, bad idea. The Gorilla glue expanded out through on to the front of the mod. It doesn't look terrible, but it could be nicer. Everything else was glued into place using the Super Glue Gel (I use it for work and love that stuff, sets really quick though). I may need to end up replacing the switch if the glue gets into it too much. The soldering and glue isn't the prettiest but it'll do lol. Going to take it to our vape meet tonight and see how it holds up while vaping my face off with the Colorado Vapers

 

[Stosh]

Very nice Atom, congrats on your first Puck! May it be the first of many.

Took me a couple tries, making small changes in switch position, glues used, boxes used, etc... to make my Puck really mine. That's part of the lure of the Puck, for <$10 you can try different things to make a one of a kind PV that fits what you want in a PV.

 

[ThePuck]

How about a 4 AAA flashlight, I know it's a tube not a box but still using NiMH
Just replaced the switch and a connector in place of the bulb....

I've been looking to do that for a while. I know I could have ordered a 4AAA flashlight but there are none local to me. I have to stick to my creedo that parts have to be obtained locally

 

[ThePuck]

Alright, after looking at building this mod for quite some time I finally put one together today. I use 510's and hadn't ordered any connectors from Madvapes, so I decided to take apart an old Ego battery that I had. I cut the connector down so it was a little bit smaller. I did have to solder some wire leads on to the connector so when I glued it in I wouldn't have to try and solder down in the connector. I used Gorilla glue for the switch, bad idea. The Gorilla glue expanded out through on to the front of the mod. It doesn't look terrible, but it could be nicer. Everything else was glued into place using the Super Glue Gel (I use it for work and love that stuff, sets really quick though). I may need to end up replacing the switch if the glue gets into it too much. The soldering and glue isn't the prettiest but it'll do lol. Going to take it to our vape meet tonight and see how it holds up while vaping my face off with the Colorado Vapers

Good job! Looks pretty good really. I've seen a whole lot that are really bad and they still worked. From my old electronics professor from years ago, there's one rule he told me to do with soldering. When your going to make a connection, make a good mechanical connection first before even soldering. Once you have a good mechanical connection, lay the solder to it until it coats the connection then let it cool but don't blow on it,... then... pull on your wire. If it doesn't pull off, you have a good connection

Congrats on your newly born Puck.

 

[LukeTheDuke]

thanks for the answers on the solder question guys an gals,


lol funny you mention the helping hands, lol that was the FIRST thing in my cart at harbour freight lol

so ill stick with the cheapo 30watt iron from HB

so roson core tin solder is ok?, but stay away from the silver and lead they suck worst than the tin correct? i purchased some cheap roson tin solder, get get the huge roll for i knew there was other solder types out there,

like what do you use personnally?
what is "bearing solder?
what about "chip quick" solder? it stays molten for a longer period of time wouldnt that work well for appling purposes?

thanks again, i LOVE DIY!!