and now... The Puck... Cheap Parts and Easy

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Alžběta Madragana

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Yesterday we hit up the newest fast food eatery in Fort Worth - something called "In N Out Burger". So anyway, there's this sign on their door says, "NO SMOKING. $2,000 Fine For Smoking." No problem. didn't say anything about vaping, so I was OK with pulling a few good solid vapes in their Men's Room. With all the cops hanging out in there, I didn't really want to explain to them how different vaping is from smoking... LOL. Stealth vaping rocks!!!
BTW, I used the "Lil OG Puck" - which is 4,8 Volts - for my latest stealth vaping experience.....
 

ThePuck

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Alžběta Madragana;3890876 said:
View attachment 49793
Just finished my 3rd Puck.
"Baby OG" - 3,6 Volts and smokes 1,5 OHM to 2 OHM cartos like a cheap cigar! 3 AA Batts.
"Lil OG" - 4,8 Volts & has 2,5 OHM to 3 OHM cartos for lunch. Kicks out the vapour for real. 4 AAA Batts.
"Big Daddy OG" - 4,8 Volts - There's no stopping Big D. Serious vapour and lasts for up to 3 days. 4 AA Batts.
A huge "Thank You!" to 'ThePuck' for giving us his original creation to build!!

Dude, you're going to town on building Pucks. The nice thing is you are only limited by your imagination and you are letting it run wild (which is a good thing :) ). Once a person gets past the "not a cigarette shape" thing, you can imagine almost anything. Vaping anywhere and not having to worry about lighters and where you can smoke is a big deal and just wish e-cigs were around years ago. I too have to stay in hotels and don't have to worry about whether the hotel is no smoking or not. Doesn't matter. Just vape away.

Keep up the great work and enjoy your vaping (oops..looks like you are :) )
 

ThePuck

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Would like to thank "The Puck" for your great mod and sharing with such a fantastic walkthrough.
I live rather remote from shops where I may be able to get the parts, as your idea demonstrates. So ordered my parts from Mad Vapes.
Also deviating, I decided to go with 510 as have not been vaping very long and wanted to stay with the gear I have.
Went with 2 x 3 AAA boxes too, as didn't want a led (thinking of stealth).
Managed to assemble without glue, (except gluing the boxes together) as I found some drill bits with close tolerances, and used the nut on the switch.

Needless to say it works great, and have not used my Ego since.

Thinking of a double "A" VV mod next.

View attachment 47855

View attachment 47856

Again many thanks, your sharing is what makes the vaping community so good.

You will probably find that you will use the Puck more than any other one for the simple reason that it's just so darn simple but effective. I've used all kinds of different PVs until I got fed up and decided to come up with something myself that was easier to maintain and still produced good vapor. I got caught without parts too many times. That's when after putting in some time on research, the Puck was born :) It surpassed all my criteria of what a PV should be. So I put it out there for everyone to build :).
 

ThePuck

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Alžběta Madragana;3916144 said:
Yesterday we hit up the newest fast food eatery in Fort Worth - something called "In N Out Burger". So anyway, there's this sign on their door says, "NO SMOKING. $2,000 Fine For Smoking." No problem. didn't say anything about VAPING, so I was OK with pulling a few good solid vapes in their Men's Room. With all the cops hanging out in there, I didn't really want to explain to them how different Vaping is from smoking... LOL. Stealth Vaping rocks!!!
BTW, I used the "Lil OG Puck" - which is 4,8 Volts - for my latest stealth vaping experience.....

Here in Ohio, everyplace is no smoking. I have even vaped in restaurants at the table but just hold the vapor in a few seconds until there isn't any to exhale (or very little). No one ever questions a thing. They probably think it's some type of breathing assistance device like a puffer :) I've even done this on a long plane flight. Stealth vaping does work.
 

TomCatt

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I tried to find the post where I first saw this technique, but no luck. I didn't come up with this; but forget who did.

Best Ever Stealth Vaping Technique:

Vape as you usually would
Before exhaling, INHALE AIR THROUGH YOUR NOSE
Then exhale.

At least 95% less vapor exhaled, just by inhaling additional air in through your NOSE.
 

ThePuck

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I tried to find the post where I first saw this technique, but no luck. I didn't come up with this; but forget who did.

Best Ever Stealth Vaping Technique:

Vape as you usually would
Before exhaling, INHALE AIR THROUGH YOUR NOSE
Then exhale.

At least 95% less vapor exhaled, just by inhaling additional air in through your NOSE.

Yep, that's pretty much what I do but you can still draw air in from you mouth. The only thing you need to remember is when drawing a vape off your PV, make sure you leave enough room in your lungs to be able to draw in more air. If you take a big hit and don't leave any room for extra air in your lungs, it won't work. You are better to take smaller drags on your Pv to stealth vape. Also make sure you hold your breath for a few seconds to give the vapor time to disapate in your lungs.
 

TomCatt

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Yep, that's pretty much what I do but you can still draw air in from you mouth. The only thing you need to remember is when drawing a vape off your PV, make sure you leave enough room in your lungs to be able to draw in more air. If you take a big hit and don't leave any room for extra air in your lungs, it won't work. You are better to take smaller drags on your Pv to stealth vape. Also make sure you hold your breath for a few seconds to give the vapor time to disapate in your lungs.

I don't stealth vape very much at all; but for some reason drawing the additional air in through the nose seems to work better than drawing in through your mouth.

Just sayin' :D
 

Shekinahsgroom

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i keep saying someone needs to take a 9v battery and just toss a resistor in it.. not even as a all day pv.. but when you go camping , loose power ext. it would be nice to just stop at the store and grab a 9v battery..

i have done that with just batteries.. took 3 aa's then just taped them together and touched wires to my atty when all my batteries where dead

I recently found a Samsung cell manufacturer (re-brand) that makes a 9V Li-ion that does NOT explode!!

It has a very large capacity and a very high discharge rate for power-hungry applications.

And yes, you read that correctly....A LI-ION CELL!!
 

TomCatt

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I recently found a Samsung cell manufacturer (re-brand) that makes a 9V Li-ion that does NOT explode!!

It has a very large capacity and a very high discharge rate for power-hungry applications.

And yes, you read that correctly....A LI-ION CELL!!

Dude, you keep this up and you're not gonna be a happy camper ;).

OK, even though I doubt it very much, what capacity is it? The 9V li-ions I've seen are max 200mah.
 

Chip_

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Alžběta Madragana;3890876 said:
View attachment 49793
Just finished my 3rd Puck.
"Baby OG" - 3,6 Volts and smokes 1,5 OHM to 2 OHM cartos like a cheap cigar! 3 AA Batts.
"Lil OG" - 4,8 Volts & has 2,5 OHM to 3 OHM cartos for lunch. Kicks out the vapour for real. 4 AAA Batts.
"Big Daddy OG" - 4,8 Volts - There's no stopping Big D. Serious vapour and lasts for up to 3 days. 4 AA Batts.
A huge "Thank You!" to 'ThePuck' for giving us his original creation to build!!

How is this happening? I have built a puck, using 4 AA batteries. ON a freshly charged set of batteries, I only get 3.7 volts out of the thing. In other words the current capability (not capacity, or mah), only seems to be about 1.6 amps.

My Atty measures 2.3 ohms.
Unloaded batteries measure 4.8 volts.
Loaded battery, voltage drops down to 3.7 volts
In other words that darn 3.7 V is no improvement over my original joye battery.

However, If I use ALKALINE batteries, then the darn voltage jumps way up there.
Conclusion, these NIMH AA are actually wimpy, wimpy, wimpy batteries.

I am using Energizer batteries, and using the Energizer charger.

In a word, I am dissappointed to say the least. I was so impressed with the ALKALINE performance, but when I switched to the NIMH, well darn it all, it feel flat. :mad:
 

Shekinahsgroom

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Dude, you keep this up and you're not gonna be a happy camper ;).

OK, even though I doubt it very much, what capacity is it? The 9V li-ions I've seen are max 200mah.

I'm not sure what you mean by that first comment, but if I reveal any "details" that would be a violation of the supplier rules, correct?

Well, I'm not a supplier, but I can't reveal those details in here.

Besides, I'm still getting details myself.

But don't bother searching the net for them cuz you won't find them on the net, either.

(New Technology)

You can try....but I highly doubt that you'll find the brand.
 

TomCatt

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How is this happening? I have built a puck, using 4 AA batteries. ON a freshly charged set of batteries, I only get 3.7 volts out of the thing. In other words the current capability (not capacity, or mah), only seems to be about 1.6 amps.

My Atty measures 2.3 ohms.
Unloaded batteries measure 4.8 volts.
Loaded battery, voltage drops down to 3.7 volts
In other words that darn 3.7 V is no improvement over my original joye battery.

However, If I use ALKALINE batteries, then the darn voltage jumps way up there.
Conclusion, these NIMH AA are actually wimpy, wimpy, wimpy batteries.

I am using Energizer batteries, and using the Energizer charger.

In a word, I am dissappointed to say the least. I was so impressed with the ALKALINE performance, but when I switched to the NIMH, well darn it all, it feel flat. :mad:

Chip, you need a higher ohm atty for the Puck. I use a 3.2 ohm clearomizer. Fresh batts (4 AAA) give 5.6V unloaded and 4.7V with the clearo.
 

Stosh

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How is this happening? I have built a puck, using 4 AA batteries. ON a freshly charged set of batteries, I only get 3.7 volts out of the thing. In other words the current capability (not capacity, or mah), only seems to be about 1.6 amps.

My Atty measures 2.3 ohms.
Unloaded batteries measure 4.8 volts.
Loaded battery, voltage drops down to 3.7 volts
In other words that darn 3.7 V is no improvement over my original joye battery.

However, If I use ALKALINE batteries, then the darn voltage jumps way up there.
Conclusion, these NIMH AA are actually wimpy, wimpy, wimpy batteries.

I am using Energizer batteries, and using the Energizer charger.

In a word, I am dissappointed to say the least. I was so impressed with the ALKALINE performance, but when I switched to the NIMH, well darn it all, it feel flat. :mad:

One of my Pucks is using AA Energizer batteries, and after vaping 1/2 a day the unloaded voltage is still 5.4v that drops to 4.7v using a 2.6 ohm carto (measured - not manu spec)

You may need to check your solder joints in the Puck as one cold joint could drop a ton of performance. Also check the charger, each cell should be coming off at ~1.4 to 1.5v hot off the charger, one bad cell in the pack will also effect the performance drastically.
 

TomCatt

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One of my Pucks is using AA Energizer batteries, and after vaping 1/2 a day the unloaded voltage is still 5.4v that drops to 4.7v using a 2.6 ohm carto (measured - not manu spec)

You may need to check your solder joints in the Puck as one cold joint could drop a ton of performance. Also check the charger, each cell should be coming off at ~1.4 to 1.5v hot off the charger, one bad cell in the pack will also effect the performance drastically.

:thumb: Stosh. I gotta do an AA Puck one of these days. Though now working on a plug- n-play PT. :D
 

Circumspice

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ohhh yeah! just built me a puck too! (510)

however iam not satified with my workmanship, can someone please turn me on to an inexpensive or REALLY nice soldering iron??

i gots 2 differant models fro harbour freight
1 30watt electric (ok,works, but is hard to make precise solders)
and 1 butane gas powered (total crap)

my puck works (for now) but i think i could do a WAY better job at the solder joints and wiring

anyone have any input or advise? any solder to recommend using? this rosan core stuff works, but ive been looking around on the net and i see there maybe better out there to use whats your experiances guys an gals?

i was thinking of getting a radio shack kit for the $30 but if its going to preform like the $3 one from harbour freight id rather go with the 3$ one,

This is a reasonable question. I have a couple of cheap soldering irons, one is 30 watts and the other is 20 watts. I hate both of them, however I can't afford to replace them. SO! I have been trying to think of a way to make the ones I have work better... Then I dredged up some OLD memories of my days as an Electronics Tech in the military... (OLD memories! Boy I wish I owned a Pace Unit!!!) When I was in Tech School, one of the labs we were required to pass was NASA standards soldering. In that class, we had to make our own set of soldering tips! Yes, we had to make them by hand! We made them from solid 8ga copper wire because copper is a far better conductor of heat. (1/8" thick solid, single conductor copper wire) Anyway, there were several types of tips we had to make in order to complete that phase of the course. Once the tips were finished and approved, we had to tin them. Another thing I learned was to NOT use flux core solder, it was not up to NASA standards at that time. We were only allowed to use a separate brush-on type flux with the solder. (it came in a jar, with the brush attached to the lid) We always used a much smaller brush to apply that flux though, because what we were working on was very small circuitry. (small in those days, big and clunky NOW!)

My take on your question is this: Try making your own soldering tips and do not use flux core solder. Try using the solder and flux separately. It might make a big difference.

So now I'm scrounging around for some 8ga copper wire. I have some that is about 3/16", but that is too big to make soldering tips. I just wish I had a soldering iron that is suitable for close-in soldering. In the military, we had "shorties" that had a really short length between the tip and the heat proof handle. It made soldering very small items much easier. As soon as I can make my own soldering tips, I will try my luck at making mods. :blush:
 

Stosh

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+1 on separate flux and solder, much better control.

Easy soldering practice, from my high school electronics shop teacher. (very ancient history)
Take 10ga house wire / romex, strip the outer sheath and use the inner wires to make a lap joint, T-joint, twisted joint, and western-union joint. Solder the joints without burning the insulation, and strong enough to put one end in a vise, pull as hard as you can on the other end, if the wire breaks before the joint you pass. :)
 

ThePuck

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How is this happening? I have built a puck, using 4 AA batteries. ON a freshly charged set of batteries, I only get 3.7 volts out of the thing. In other words the current capability (not capacity, or mah), only seems to be about 1.6 amps.

My Atty measures 2.3 ohms.
Unloaded batteries measure 4.8 volts.
Loaded battery, voltage drops down to 3.7 volts
In other words that darn 3.7 V is no improvement over my original joye battery.

However, If I use ALKALINE batteries, then the darn voltage jumps way up there.
Conclusion, these NIMH AA are actually wimpy, wimpy, wimpy batteries.

I am using Energizer batteries, and using the Energizer charger.

In a word, I am dissappointed to say the least. I was so impressed with the ALKALINE performance, but when I switched to the NIMH, well darn it all, it feel flat. :mad:

I use energizer AAA batteries and have no problem. You should do even better with AAs. A freshly charged set of 4 NiMHs should be reading over 5.2 volts unloaded, not 4.8. If it is reading 4.8 on a fresh charge, then there is something wrong with your batteries. There have been thousands of people now that have built a Puck and can testify that NiMHs work wonders. :)

You shuold also use a higher ohm atty like 3.2 but a ton fo people use 510 atties at 2.3 ohm and still have good results but about half the battery life as using like 901 3.2 ohm.
 
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