- Status
You really need more like 35A to get 220 watts from a two-cell mod. So either Eleaf is telling tall tales about the output of this mod, or they can't do math.
The real question is: What kind of wattage do you plan to vape at? The wattage you're actually using is what determines the current that will be pulled from the batteries.
The trend is for manufacturers to release mods with unrealistic or impossible max wattages, because big numbers sell. There are no two 18650s on the market that can effectively OR safely support a 220 watt output.
CDR (Continuous Discharge Rate) - The number of amps that a battery can safely deliver, continuously.
As well as creating a ‘green’ safe usage zone and an effective amp limit, it is highly relevant in the event that your mod auto fires or the button on the device is actuated when it is unattended. If your devices power demands are within the CDR of your battery, it will discharge until it is flat without being damaged or reaching unsafe internal temperatures. If your setups power demands grossly exceed CDR, your battery will be damaged and in extreme cases vent or explode. Beware of 'pulse' ratings. There is no need to exceed CDR. Should your atomizer require more than one battery can provide, then the amp load should be split/shared using a multi-battery mod.
Pulse Rating - Amp capability of a battery over an undefined short period of time.
There are no standards or clear definitions for this value, and it should be discounted as a factor when choosing a battery. Some vapers choose to exceed the CDR of a battery, but at the low end this will reduce the lifespan of the battery, and at the higher end this can result in a venting or exploding battery.
A 20 amp CDR cell is good for up to 60 watts, so in your case with two cells you are good up to 120 watts.
I would go with the LG HG2 or the Samsung 30Q
A 25 amp CDR cwell is good for up to 75 watts per cell, so in your case up to 150 watts.
I would go with the Sony VTC5a
Avoid rewraps and purchase quality genuine Sony Samsung Panasonic or LG cells from a trusted vendor.
Trusted North American vendors
www.liionwholesale.com
www.imrbatteries.com
www.illumn.com
www.rtdvapor.com
www.batterybro.com
www.orbtronic.com
Mooch's blog | E-Cigarette Forum
Battery Mooch
CDR (Continuous Discharge Rate) - The number of amps that a battery can safely deliver, continuously.
As well as creating a ‘green’ safe usage zone and an effective amp limit, it is highly relevant in the event that your mod auto fires or the button on the device is actuated when it is unattended. If your devices power demands are within the CDR of your battery, it will discharge until it is flat without being damaged or reaching unsafe internal temperatures. If your setups power demands grossly exceed CDR, your battery will be damaged and in extreme cases vent or explode. Beware of 'pulse' ratings. There is no need to exceed CDR. Should your atomizer require more than one battery can provide, then the amp load should be split/shared using a multi-battery mod.
Pulse Rating - Amp capability of a battery over an undefined short period of time.
There are no standards or clear definitions for this value, and it should be discounted as a factor when choosing a battery. Some vapers choose to exceed the CDR of a battery, but at the low end this will reduce the lifespan of the battery, and at the higher end this can result in a venting or exploding battery.
A 20 amp CDR cell is good for up to 60 watts, so in your case with two cells you are good up to 120 watts.
I would go with the LG HG2 or the Samsung 30Q
A 25 amp CDR cwell is good for up to 75 watts per cell, so in your case up to 150 watts.
I would go with the Sony VTC5a
Avoid rewraps and purchase quality genuine Sony Samsung Panasonic or LG cells from a trusted vendor.
Trusted North American vendors
www.liionwholesale.com
www.imrbatteries.com
www.illumn.com
www.rtdvapor.com
www.batterybro.com
www.orbtronic.com
Mooch's blog | E-Cigarette Forum
Battery Mooch
Although the Eleaf Invoke has become one of my favorites daily vapes, I didn't buy it for the insane wattage rating. I bought it for its compact size and features for use at 20W and under. A pair of 30Q's works nicely and provides an all day vape on a set of batteries. Vaping up to 120W would probably be safe with batteries Mooch rates at 20A or higher, but I wouldn't push it above that.
If you're going to stay 100 W or less, just get 20A batteries with 2,500 or even better 3,000 mAh for runtime. The CDR is more than sufficient for your use.
Thank you Eskie, I'm looking at either the fireluke or the falcon and both are rated less than 100 watts.
Manufacturer's recommendations are kind of the same as coils.... They're a recommended "range" based on what the mod maker "thinks" most people will be vaping at. I use my invoke at an all powerful 15 watts, so I'm not looking to "push" the wattage envelope and I use the Samsung 25s because runtime is best using that type of battery. You can certainly "overpower" yourself if you wish, but that will sacrifice run time.
As everyone is stating, you can select the battery that will meet (not necessarily exceed, although a little bit of "exceed" may give you some safety) your wattage needs and be just fine.
Good luck and it's a great question to ask, so I am glad that you did
Anna
As everyone is stating, you can select the battery that will meet (not necessarily exceed, although a little bit of "exceed" may give you some safety) your wattage needs and be just fine.
Good luck and it's a great question to ask, so I am glad that you did
Anna
dennism The MAH rating indicates the average run time of the battery (higher is better) and the run time changes with the current draw you put on it (wattage setting). Using the lowest wattage that satisfies your vaping style will increase your vape time.
The current rating (amperage) just tells you how much load you can safely put on the battery. Most mods these days give you a current indication to help you stay under the battery's rated specs for amperage.
Ohm's Law current calculation is I=E/R. I =current in amps, E=voltage, and R=Resistance.
If your coil is .2 ohms and you vape it at 3.7v (nominal for 18650) you will pull 18.5 amps. 3.7 / .2 = 18.5 amps. For a given voltage, raising the coil resistance (or lowering the voltage) lowers the amperage draw.
if you vape a .5 ohm coil at 3.7v you will draw 7.4A. Battery life is highly dependent on current draw.
For a real world example, my Invoke with a .74 ohm coil draws 3.6A at 2.93 volts set at 11 watts in power mode as read from the Invoke display while vaping. Vape time on a battery is highly dependent on where you set the wattage.
The current rating (amperage) just tells you how much load you can safely put on the battery. Most mods these days give you a current indication to help you stay under the battery's rated specs for amperage.
Ohm's Law current calculation is I=E/R. I =current in amps, E=voltage, and R=Resistance.
If your coil is .2 ohms and you vape it at 3.7v (nominal for 18650) you will pull 18.5 amps. 3.7 / .2 = 18.5 amps. For a given voltage, raising the coil resistance (or lowering the voltage) lowers the amperage draw.
if you vape a .5 ohm coil at 3.7v you will draw 7.4A. Battery life is highly dependent on current draw.
For a real world example, my Invoke with a .74 ohm coil draws 3.6A at 2.93 volts set at 11 watts in power mode as read from the Invoke display while vaping. Vape time on a battery is highly dependent on where you set the wattage.
Last edited:
Just placed an order with MVS, Freemax Fireluke Mesh Tank, 1 pack of .15 ohm coils, 2 Samsung inr 18650-30Q 3000 mah batteries and Sigelei Vcigo K3 mod. Hope I'm good to go.
- Status
Similar threads
