Any way to fix the Nemesis clone fire button (stuck sometimes at the beginning of the tube)

[VapinSweetZ]

With most of my attys I can't screw the fire button all the way in, and when it's a little bit out, sometimes (actually most of the time) the firing button stops at the beginning of the battery tube and doesn't close the circle.

Any tips on how to fix that? I thought maybe to grind/polish the outside edge of the tube or the inside of the button, but I rather ask you before ruing something that won't work

BTW the clone is SS from hcigar but honestly I had this issue with every other Nemesis I had.

Thanks!

 

[anumber1]

What configuration are you using your Nemesis in? What Battery? Kick? Fuse?

If you can barley thread in the button you may need to use the beauty ring.

I need the beauty ring when using a kick with a flat top 18650, Don't need it with the kick and an 18500.

Dont need the beauty ring with no kick and a flat top sony 18650, need it with a button top Panasonic NCR18650PF.

Need more info to help.

 

[VapinSweetZ]

It's with the beauty ring on for the Fat Daddy upgrade kit.
Right now I'm with Sony VTC4/5, with AW it's even worst.
I only have 1 atty that have a really positive screw and works well, I can take the positive pin of the Nemesis a little big higher and then the firing button will sit nicely inside the tube, but I will have an ugly gap between the mod and the atty....

 

[anumber1]

Go back to the original top post I suppose.

I have no experience with the fat daddy parts. I haven't found a configuration that I needed to use them in.

 

[crxess]

Per previous question.
Ignore - already answered -Are you using the thin Kick Ring? (Beauty ring)

Using the Fat Daddy Vapes Top and Bottom Pin, you should Keep the thin kink ring on the mod.

If the ring is in play and it is still to long, simply use one of the original Pins - top or bottom.

As per Design -Thicker Pins are not an upgrade. They are alternative depending on application need.

 

[VapinSweetZ]

Thanks but that's not my question, the button isnt too low, it's in an acceptable location, the problem is the button and the tube, how can I fix this issue, should I sand the end of the tube from the outside, the end of the button from the inside? Any other trick?

 

[crxess]

The button should NOT be below the tube.
All these Nemesis switches have a bit of lateral movement.(wobble) Sanding will not stop the switch from snagging the tube.


Switch at rest - 2.5-3mm below Unlocked ring.
Depressed .5-1mm below unlocked ring.

Don't understand why one would prefer Grinding to a 30 second pin swap.

 

[VapinSweetZ]

With the original positive screw I can't use the beauty ring, the negative screw doesn't change anything.

 

[anumber1]

With the original positive screw I can't use the beauty ring, the negative screw doesn't change anything.

Take a millimeter off your thicker top post or don't use the beauty ring with your original post.

Seems the longer post is too long for you.

 

[bsoplinger]

I just did that with a Stingray clone of mine. Although that switch is designed with magnets, it has the same design where the end cap fits over the bottom of the tube and there's a lock ring which can be adjusted down to keep it from firing. I also had a Nemesis clone with a sticky switch.

Just remember that you needn't grind away much material, what you really need is to just round the edges, of the bottom of the tube and top of the switch, so that they'll slide past each other if there's some play in the switch. The important thing is to polish the areas you've ground so that they're smooth when you're finished.

Before you grind, make sure you need to. Disassemble the switch and test the bottom cap and see how it slides over the end of the tube. If there's a smooth enough fit without any grab it most likely means you have too much wobble in the switch and fixing that would be better than grinding initially. If there's still trouble after wobble reduction then its time to grind and polish. The rice pin is only for mechanical stability and isn't necessary for electrical conduction. Which means any material that's strong enough will do. Often the rice pin is too small in diameter which means lots of wobble. What's worked for me is to start with a new oversized pin. I chuck it in my Dremel and carefully grind it down. The ideal size is just small enough to allow the 2 pieces of the switch to still freely past each other but no smaller. That should fix the wobble issue.

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