Not sure what you have but 1:1 Nemesis clone switches have 3 vent grooves in the Brass threading of the switch assembly.
Stingray Clone Firing Button
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Not sure what you have but 1:1 Nemesis clone switches have 3 vent grooves in the Brass threading of the switch assembly.
Thanks for that info Cevan !!. I just tried it with my switch and it works well. I used a regular finish nail though.
Now it will fire by touching any side of the switch.
Again, thanks for the tip
Anyone was able to fix the wobbliness? Mine wobbles like crazy when sat upright unlocked, I've cleaned everything, have everything tight etc.
With a 18500 battery there's no big deal since it doesn't auto-fire although it wobbles, with a 18650 though, it fires all the time on it's own
Dunno what to do, I do have a spare set of magnets, wonder if that will make it better? Could be these magnets are just weak or something?
With a 18500 battery there's no big deal since it doesn't auto-fire although it wobbles, with a 18650 though, it fires all the time on it's own
Dunno what to do, I do have a spare set of magnets, wonder if that will make it better? Could be these magnets are just weak or something?
Got mine today, crunchy as hell, it'd stick in the firing position if it fired at all. I tried several things, but what helped the most was pulling off the button and lock ring, then grinding off a bit of copper from the end of the tube. Not making it shorter, but thinner. Also gave a bit of an angle (chamfer) to the very outside edge, so it's a slope instead of a straight corner. Feels like buttah now.
Hope this helps someone
Hope this helps someone
Anyone was able to fix the wobbliness? Mine wobbles like crazy when sat upright unlocked, I've cleaned everything, have everything tight etc.
With a 18500 battery there's no big deal since it doesn't auto-fire although it wobbles, with a 18650 though, it fires all the time on it's own
Dunno what to do, I do have a spare set of magnets, wonder if that will make it better? Could be these magnets are just weak or something?
Anyone? :/
What manufacturer or fasttech SKU is your Stingray, Sptz? The problem with these damn clones is that there are so many different versions out there now with their own unique problems it's difficult to lend general advice. Neither of my clones wobble in the least. Sounds like a magnet issue. Even with a wonky rice pin, the mags should be plenty strong enough to keep it from firing unlocked with any size battery/atty combo.
My experience: I got FT SKU 1632200 back in March, and it was almost perfect right out of the box. Just needed a good cleaning and a few minutes of light center-post sanding. Been using it daily since, and it's fantastic.
I just got SKU 1638600 in today and it was suffering from severe sticky crunchy button syndrome. I fixed it by simply disassembling and unscrewing the firing pin half a turn. It seems that with the pin screwed all the way down, the button assembly mounts too high into the tube, causing the inside upper lip of the button to catch on the lower portion of the tube. There's only about a mm of difference, but it makes all the difference in the world. SteamHead nailed the solution to that one. I'll be breaking out the Dremel sometime this week, but for now my steel Ray is working well.
Never had this problem at all with my brass one, and I speculate that the button is now silky smooth thanks to the steel on the button wearing down the brass at the bottom of the tube with the amount of use it's gotten.
My experience: I got FT SKU 1632200 back in March, and it was almost perfect right out of the box. Just needed a good cleaning and a few minutes of light center-post sanding. Been using it daily since, and it's fantastic.
I just got SKU 1638600 in today and it was suffering from severe sticky crunchy button syndrome. I fixed it by simply disassembling and unscrewing the firing pin half a turn. It seems that with the pin screwed all the way down, the button assembly mounts too high into the tube, causing the inside upper lip of the button to catch on the lower portion of the tube. There's only about a mm of difference, but it makes all the difference in the world. SteamHead nailed the solution to that one. I'll be breaking out the Dremel sometime this week, but for now my steel Ray is working well.
Never had this problem at all with my brass one, and I speculate that the button is now silky smooth thanks to the steel on the button wearing down the brass at the bottom of the tube with the amount of use it's gotten.
Thanks for taking time to reply mate. Mine is a Hcigar Black Copper. It does give me the impression it might be weak magnets. I do have spares I got from fatdaddyvapes though. I'm just a bit wary on how to remove them since I have no idea how they're attached in their respective slots.
Is there not enough room in the assembly to stack another one of those magnets? Not sure which mags FatDaddy sells, but I know people were stacking the FT ones with good results.
The disc magnets are just glued into the contacts. You should be able to pry them out with a precision screwdriver. If you have a rotary tool, you could cut a tiny slot in the side of the contact to help you get under the magnet. Or you could always just drill right through the center of them and use the hole to pull those suckers out.
The disc magnets are just glued into the contacts. You should be able to pry them out with a precision screwdriver. If you have a rotary tool, you could cut a tiny slot in the side of the contact to help you get under the magnet. Or you could always just drill right through the center of them and use the hole to pull those suckers out.
I was able to just pull one out by using a stack of magnets The other one wont budge and I don't have a precision screwdriver atm. Still, I replaced it and it works AMAZINGLY well now, no autofire, fires like a dreaaaaaam. It was definitely shoddy magnets.
The other one wont budge and I don't have a precision screwdriver atm. Still, I replaced it and it works AMAZINGLY well now, no autofire, fires like a dreaaaaaam. It was definitely shoddy magnets.
I have just one question! When you tighten everything up, if you shake the mod up and down (instead of to the sides) can you hear the positive pin going up and down? Is that normal? Because I can although it fires. I'm just afraid it might not be making full contact
Nope, not normal. You want the switch assembly to tighten up to the battery and snug it down to eliminate rattle. I'd guess you need to adjust your switch for that battery.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
It is fully in, can't go in further. What I mean is, the battery itself isn't rattling at all! It's just the positive contact that touches the battery
Ah, now that sounds odd indeed. I'd guess you're hearing a loose magnet since they aren't necessarily glued in place but the repulsion between the pair should keep them from moving so that's got to be a bad guess.
The only other thing in the switch assembly that moves is the rice pin. I have 2 Stingray clones. 1 has a somewhat small pin in comparison to the half holes it fits into. I've seen enough comments from other folks about small pins. And unlike the Nemesis rice pin which pretty much goes from top to bottom of the threaded portion, on the Stingray it's necessarily shorter because the assembly moves up and down to fire. So perhaps that's what you're hearing.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
I'm sorry to hijack this thread again but I got me a set of precision screwdrivers and even with the smallest flathead I can't remove the magnet that is in the connection that actually touches the battery, the other one came out EASILY, this one is impossible... I could boil it to loosen up the glue but it's stuck in the white delrin piece so that's obviously out of the question...
Any suggestions? I'm actually ruining the copper around the magnet from trying this
EDIT: Actually, looking at this picture proves that I can actually disassemble it from the delrin ring?
Anyone knows how?!
EDIT 2: DOH! I managed to take it off the delrin ring and it seems physically impossible to remove the magnet from there...... It's INSANELY stuck I have no idea what to do...
Any suggestions? I'm actually ruining the copper around the magnet from trying this
EDIT: Actually, looking at this picture proves that I can actually disassemble it from the delrin ring?
Anyone knows how?!
EDIT 2: DOH! I managed to take it off the delrin ring and it seems physically impossible to remove the magnet from there...... It's INSANELY stuck I have no idea what to do...
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i was having issues with my firing pin and a guy on a FB Group had the solution, you take the assembly apart...and the bottom magnet has to be loosened about 1/4 to a 1/2 turn...if its all the way down for some reason it will not fire correctly.
I lossened that screw/magnet up and now it fires perfectly everytime!
I lossened that screw/magnet up and now it fires perfectly everytime!
I think I figured out the problem.
If you look closely at the edges of the inner circle of the large brass ring you will see/feel very small burrs from sub-standard machining. These burrs catch on the copper post that goes up through the middle of the brass (I think its brass, maybe bronze?).
I took a round needle file and very gently worked it along the edges of the hole in the brass. Not the smooth sides, but the edges (corners) on top and bottom until the edges were more rounded. Also the half moon shaped channel in the brass that the small pin sits in has burrs at top and bottom. Used the same round needle file to round these edges.
Next if you look at the edges on the bottom of the copper tube (the main mod tube with the engraving on it) that the entire button assembly screws onto there are more burrs on the outside edge. Take the same small file and gently work it around the outside edge. Don't apply much pressure since copper is very soft, just lightly work it around the outside edge to round off the corners. The shiny chrome ring (with the battery air vents on it) catches on the burrs.
Mine is now smooth as silk. No need to loosen anything inside the switch or anything. I also used a pencil to rub some graphite on the small pin inside the switch and the main copper post. Basically any part that rubs on other parts.
Butter.
Home this helps someone else with the crunchy switch.
If you look closely at the edges of the inner circle of the large brass ring you will see/feel very small burrs from sub-standard machining. These burrs catch on the copper post that goes up through the middle of the brass (I think its brass, maybe bronze?).
I took a round needle file and very gently worked it along the edges of the hole in the brass. Not the smooth sides, but the edges (corners) on top and bottom until the edges were more rounded. Also the half moon shaped channel in the brass that the small pin sits in has burrs at top and bottom. Used the same round needle file to round these edges.
Next if you look at the edges on the bottom of the copper tube (the main mod tube with the engraving on it) that the entire button assembly screws onto there are more burrs on the outside edge. Take the same small file and gently work it around the outside edge. Don't apply much pressure since copper is very soft, just lightly work it around the outside edge to round off the corners. The shiny chrome ring (with the battery air vents on it) catches on the burrs.
Mine is now smooth as silk. No need to loosen anything inside the switch or anything. I also used a pencil to rub some graphite on the small pin inside the switch and the main copper post. Basically any part that rubs on other parts.
Butter.
Home this helps someone else with the crunchy switch.
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this is 100% correct. Did this about 2 weeks ago and my button is smooth as silk. Does anyone know if the top cap and be dissembled?
It looks like you can press the insulator and center pin out from the top. Also the the rest of the top assembly looks pressed together too. Haven't figured out how to press those apart without damaging yet. Please update if you find a way.
Clean it... clean it very well. Dawn dish soap, warm water, and scrubbing works wonders. Clean it good as it can look like nothing is there but there are fine grainy particles that cause the crunch.
Too many people leave the black gunk (like the picture above a few posts) and it can cause problems.
Too many people leave the black gunk (like the picture above a few posts) and it can cause problems.
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