I bought an hcigar Stingray clone about a week ago and its really an awesome mod, but the firing button is really "crunchy" and it gets stuck sometimes and I have to press it just right to get it to even fire. Why is this happening? Everything is screwed in tight and flush, Im very confused and its quite frustrating as it is brand new. Thank you for any advice!!
Stingray Clone Firing Button
- Thread starter JPiccione
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Common with the hcigar and the EHPro clones, as far as I'm aware of, the authentic doesn't have this issue too often.
What you'll need to do is grab some WD-40, preferably with that long red tip. Just spray it in the openings where your firing button is. NOT from the top if you decide to disassemble it.
What you'll need to do is grab some WD-40, preferably with that long red tip. Just spray it in the openings where your firing button is. NOT from the top if you decide to disassemble it.
I'd would recommend avoiding this advice and waiting for recommendations from another owner.
It is my understanding that the Stingray Switch is a nice improvement on the Nemesis Switch and should not have this type of issue.
The one thing I recommend with all New Mechanical Mods is full disassemble and thorough cleaning. The crunch you hear could well be machining debris in the threads and openings between moving parts.(NOT GOOD) Permanent damage can occur rapidly if not corrected.
I recommended it just because that was what fixed it for me, apologies. A thorough disassembly of my firing switch caused it to not fire...
I got a sting ray clone last week. It has the earth magnet switch. Works very well and fires no matter where I put pressure on the button. I would take the advise to dissemble it and see whats going on. Some of the youtube reviews break it down and I would follow along with them. Good luck.
I have the Hcigar stingray myself as well and also have this problem, cant stand it. For me though it only happens with different batteries and then sometimes it doesnt. I found if you back off the switch a little it helps a lot. I often find myself having to pull the damn thing back out after I fire it, it doesnt auto fire but it does get stuck. Ive cleaned and polished this thibg twice now so im out of ideas. Another problem I have is with the 510 floating pin, one day it just decided to stop working with my patriot, again no clue as too why but with an rda with a more protruding 510 pin has no problems. As far as I know these are the only 2 problems with the Hcigar ray.
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I decided against the stingray clone (even though the aged brass one was tight) because I didn't really like the firing button on it. Perhaps I rushed to judgment too quickly, but I opted for a Caravela instead.
I have a Hcigar Stingray also and have the same issue as the OP. Button sticks and is weak. I have disassembled and cleaned, it helped a bit. But still doesnt perform.
Since this didn’t work I have disassembled and studied the switch. The following I have noticed.
1. When sitting the mod upright it would tend to want to lean to one side all the time. I have noticed that it leans to the side opposite the small pin in the assembly of the switch. I verified this by removing the pin and reassembling the mod. Now it leans it whatever direction it wants.
2. I have noticed when disassembled the small pin that holds the switch together is much smaller than the slot, so I installed a nemesis pin which was longer in it and it did “solid” the switch up a bit but didn’t render it completely acceptable.
3. After that I studied it some more and found that the center post of the switch and the threaded brass piece that slides over it are ever so slightly loose and allows wobble. Where there is wobble there is sticking. So that leads me to believe that the center post and this brass piece are not machined tight enough to allow it to slide and be solid at the same time.
4. I have also noticed that the magnets where designed to be much smaller in diameter than the switch itself. Thus allowing a “teeder todder” wobble effect when pushed. Centering the pushing of the switch becomes more important because of this.
Here is another beef I have with this mod right now, I cant stand it up on the switch. It leans and will fire itself with the lock ring in the fire position. Not good for a dripper.
So, here is where I am with this. The only thing I can think of that might help is a set of stronger magnets forcing a more center push of the switch. I haven’t tried this yet as I haven’t had time to research where I might acquire these magnets.
If anyone has an answer to fixing this switch it would be great if they could comment in here. I like the mod but if I cant get a fix it is going in “FILE 13”.
Cant really say I agree with this switch being an improvement over the nemesis switch, I have 2 clones and neither have any problems. They are sturdy and fire every time.
Since this didn’t work I have disassembled and studied the switch. The following I have noticed.
1. When sitting the mod upright it would tend to want to lean to one side all the time. I have noticed that it leans to the side opposite the small pin in the assembly of the switch. I verified this by removing the pin and reassembling the mod. Now it leans it whatever direction it wants.
2. I have noticed when disassembled the small pin that holds the switch together is much smaller than the slot, so I installed a nemesis pin which was longer in it and it did “solid” the switch up a bit but didn’t render it completely acceptable.
3. After that I studied it some more and found that the center post of the switch and the threaded brass piece that slides over it are ever so slightly loose and allows wobble. Where there is wobble there is sticking. So that leads me to believe that the center post and this brass piece are not machined tight enough to allow it to slide and be solid at the same time.
4. I have also noticed that the magnets where designed to be much smaller in diameter than the switch itself. Thus allowing a “teeder todder” wobble effect when pushed. Centering the pushing of the switch becomes more important because of this.
Here is another beef I have with this mod right now, I cant stand it up on the switch. It leans and will fire itself with the lock ring in the fire position. Not good for a dripper.
So, here is where I am with this. The only thing I can think of that might help is a set of stronger magnets forcing a more center push of the switch. I haven’t tried this yet as I haven’t had time to research where I might acquire these magnets.
If anyone has an answer to fixing this switch it would be great if they could comment in here. I like the mod but if I cant get a fix it is going in “FILE 13”.
Cant really say I agree with this switch being an improvement over the nemesis switch, I have 2 clones and neither have any problems. They are sturdy and fire every time.
...@sfeltch..........HCigar Stingray Cln.
ordered some magnets 6mm diameter & 2mm thick from supermagnet man Saturday when they come in i'll let ya know if they work......disassembled my switch and my bottom magnet flew away & couldn't find it, so in the mean-time i took and pried the magnet off of a safety fuse and installed into the cavity on the switch and it's working for now...man it's tough to get the magnet back in correctly, if there is a secret i sure would like to know about it.
ordered some magnets 6mm diameter & 2mm thick from supermagnet man Saturday when they come in i'll let ya know if they work......disassembled my switch and my bottom magnet flew away & couldn't find it, so in the mean-time i took and pried the magnet off of a safety fuse and installed into the cavity on the switch and it's working for now...man it's tough to get the magnet back in correctly, if there is a secret i sure would like to know about it.
I have an extra set of magnets that came with my 4nine mod. They look about the same, I wonder if theyd fit. I'll check it out and report back.
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I received a Stingray clone in the mail today that was missing one of the magnets. For now I've got a broken Nemesis Magnet split in half in the top part of the switch and it's working fine but I'd love to find out which ones fit and get a spare or two or three.
got my magnets in today and i got them to work in my HCigar Stingray Clone!
got-um from SuperMagnetMan, part#D1043 - N50. 0.236" 6mm diameter x 0.078" (2mm) thick - Nickel - N50.
they are not a perfect fit but they do work with a slight modification to the contact tightening screw on the firing switch...had to use 1 wrap of a small Mag-light spring (or any small spring) cut & form fitted around the base of the contact screw...then tightened snug into the derlin base...ShaZam we got a workable Fire Button.
these were the smallest thickness Disc Magnets that were available @ S.M.M.....do believe if you can find a smaller thickness they would be a perfect fit without modification to the contact screw.
a "Kick" will work perfectly with a 18490 AW IMR.....with an 18650 had to leave some thread showing on the 510 base and the button base, I split the difference to make it uniform, the 18350 is about the same deal......also tried a Safety fuse with just the 18650 Pan and it was a better fit only had a slight gap on the button threads, you could also split the difference here....suggest using Flat-tops to get a better fit.
if anyone needs a link to the Magnets just shoot me a PM.
Yall have a Great Day!
got-um from SuperMagnetMan, part#D1043 - N50. 0.236" 6mm diameter x 0.078" (2mm) thick - Nickel - N50.
they are not a perfect fit but they do work with a slight modification to the contact tightening screw on the firing switch...had to use 1 wrap of a small Mag-light spring (or any small spring) cut & form fitted around the base of the contact screw...then tightened snug into the derlin base...ShaZam we got a workable Fire Button.
these were the smallest thickness Disc Magnets that were available @ S.M.M.....do believe if you can find a smaller thickness they would be a perfect fit without modification to the contact screw.
a "Kick" will work perfectly with a 18490 AW IMR.....with an 18650 had to leave some thread showing on the 510 base and the button base, I split the difference to make it uniform, the 18350 is about the same deal......also tried a Safety fuse with just the 18650 Pan and it was a better fit only had a slight gap on the button threads, you could also split the difference here....suggest using Flat-tops to get a better fit.
if anyone needs a link to the Magnets just shoot me a PM.
Yall have a Great Day!
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the real jd is crunchy and sometimes gets stuck as well. the trick is fire it from the middle and do not screw the switch tight against the battery. screw it snug than back off half a turn. it is just the nature of this design. I have the jd and the infinite. they both act this way. once you get used to hitting it right and screwing it a little lose it works fine. also they both got smoother after a few days. neither have ever failed to fire. I screwed the infinite way too tight once and it got stuck on. I tapped it and it unstuck. even pbusardo said the scorpion was crunchy and the stingray is more so. just the nature of the design. I said in another thread the infinite is better than the jd.
Thanks for the info sando7. I also did a little something different with mine. I found that the nemesis switch fits perfectly on the Stingray. And works flawlessly for me. Of course I dont have an actual Stingray clone anymore but I'm loving the nemesis - stingray combo.
also likewise, good to know these things...man i tell ya i'm just glad to be up & runnin again.....the way i have my fire button set now i can use very minimum pressure, nice & easy & absolutely no crunch/wobble whatsoever....now on w/the Vapor 
Take the switch apart and clean it well then use it and use it some more. Almost everyone's Stingray clone was a little crunchy when first received and new. If you use it for a couple of days it should be much much better. I like my switch better than the nemesis now. Probably based on looks as they both work great!
I never would have thought of this. I screwed with that dam switch for days and never got anywhere, was ready to toss the whole thing in the trash. Now i have a nemesisray that works perfectly.
Thanks sfeltch.
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