Something is up with the base of that Kabuki... please... contact me Via PM so I can send you off a new base directly, and immediately.
I have posted them, but that's no guarantee that IBTanked will have glass that meets the correct tolerances. With glass, it's always measured by the OD of the glass, and if the wall thickness is incorrect, or out of spec, then we're gonna have a fit issue.I thought zen had listed glass dimensions so people had the option of ordering from places like ibtanked?
Thanks for the clarification.I have posted them, but that's no guarantee that IBTanked will have glass that meets the correct tolerances. With glass, it's always measured by the OD of the glass, and if the wall thickness is incorrect, or out of spec, then we're gonna have a fit issue.
My glass is measured with pin gauges for GO/NO-GO... I reject about 10%.
I have the 510 and I had to fiddle a bit when I first got it. Don't know if this helps but this is how my little silver bit currently sits:View attachment 505425
Back out that screw a little, and push in the black plastic so it's flush with the outer metal ring of the 510 connector.I have the 510 and I had to fiddle a bit when I first got it. Don't know if this helps but this is how my little silver bit currently sits:View attachment 505425
Hi Zen & everybody,
Thanks so much for your help with this .
I followed the process you explained above but unfortunately it's still on OP...
However, I think I know now what may be wrong (?)= when I screwed the kabuki back on the P3 the 510 PIN was sticking out a bit .
BUT when I went to take it off and unscrewed the kabuki from the P3 after the failed attempt I noticed that the little pin was no longer protruding at all and seemed to be pushed back in to the level of the metal ring +black ring that hold it.
I tried this process several times, with the same result.
When I screwed the pin in with the little wrench I made sure not too tighten too much , it was still sticking out and seemed to be holding well but apparently it's somehow getting pushed in everytime I screw the kabuki on a PV.
It's not pushed in alot, just enough to be "flat" with the metal ring that holds it and the black ring.But it's definitely no longer sticking out..... and thus probably not making contact ?
Meanwhile,I got an answer from Keith from Creme de vape UK (where Ive been purchasing my Kabuki's) who suggested the following :
"Hello,
Sorry to hear you are having trouble with your Kabuki. This sounds to me like the head is not making contact with your P3 device’s centre post. You can pull out gently on the coil/head’s base part to extend the length a fraction of a mm to help with this. Be careful not to pull the bit out of the head, you just want to move it a tiny bit and then try it again. If that does not work, might be worth trying a new head in the tank, but I think you can most likely get that one working again by doing as I suggested above.
Let me know how you get along OK"
I WILL try his suggestion but I have already changed the coil twice so i dont think the prob is with the coil...???
The same coils are working fine when I switch them into a mini Nautilus and try them on the same P3.
Thanks for the reply/thoughts. I'm referring to regulated devices specifically. Not mechanical where there would be a benefit to low ohms.Kabuki relevant
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I just saw that the triton mini coils are due out end of month and will fit. At 1.2ohms this could
Be exactly the fill in I'm missing on the kabuki. Just a bit more oomph. Also working well with mech mods. Saved me from ordering too many of the other coils until these are out. I'm really optimistic about them! 1.2 is my target build for kanthal so it will be great to have disposables built to that and the triton coils are stainless steel which I prefer also. Hopefully the mini coils are. These are all supposed to fit the kabuki.
Aspire Triton Mini Replacement 1.2ohm Coil 5pcs(delivery in the late of the Nov) [8335 1.2ohm发热丝] - $16.00 : Aspire online shopping
Also Clapton coils (undo find twisted offers better taste but I've never used a premade twisted or clapton coil id be curious how they are. Men ouch to buy a pack. Aspire Triton Mini Replacement 1.8 Clapton Coil 5pcs(delivery in the late of the Nov) [8335 1.8ohm发热丝] - $17.00 : Aspire online shopping
And temperature control (please can we not argue I'm just posting information. If you don't want to use temp Control don't. Just another coil available.
Aspire Triton Mini Replacement(Temperature Sensing) Ni-200 0.15ohm Coil 5pcs(delivery in the late of the Nov) [8335 0.15ohm NI-200发热丝] - $16.00 : Aspire online shopping
Bottom line is three new coil choices are a plus for people who can use them. Afaik these fit anything they can take a nautilus coil. I hope that's correct
General vaping so skip if you don't care.
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As to low ohm builds here are benefits over higher ohm builds for Lung hitters. But again people who believe the know all on a subject don't want to consider they may be wrong. That goes on all sides. I don't personally prefer lung hitting style of vaping. I do prefer to vape closer to 1 ohm than 2 so for me in the case of the new coils I believe for my usage the triton mini coils will suit better.
I use 26 gauge over 28 sometimes and 30 other times. There are a lot of things to consider when changing gauges. He characteristics of the vapor change with the size of the wire and the build room has something to do with it also. Similarly surface area touching cotton matters. If one wants a low ohm build one is hardly going to
Use a single wrap 28 gauge when one can use five wrap 24 and cover more surface area. That's just one example.
It's unfortunate that people on boards can't or don't wish to consider he way they vape isn't for everyone. This is very present in the cloud club. The normal for vaping now is taking direct king hits. But it's seen al Around.
For me. More surface area with even heating typically means better vape. I use the maximum allowed space over the air intake to achieve that.
I also personally find micro coils overused. Spaced 2.5 mm coils for me offer great flavor, are easy to build properly. Don't rally hot spot, and offer a few other advantages.
I haven't seen these in the tread ...Maximum 9 left.![]()
There are benefits in regulated devices. Battery life. Efficiency of vapor production. Surface area as stated.Thanks for the reply/thoughts. I'm referring to regulated devices specifically. Not mechanical where there would be a benefit to low ohms.
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I haven't seen these in the tread ...
Is there any real difference between the P3 threaded Kabuki and the 510 ?
Ive been buying the 510's even though I use them mainly on my P3's, just for the versatility and to keep the option of using it on another battery if necessary ...but ...would getting the P3 threaded kabuki offer me any kind of plus that i would notice ?
And how's flavor? Atomizer life break in etcI'm using a 1.6 coil at 13.6W. Airflow about two full turns. 3-4 second draws.
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