Are Provari tube mods that good ?
- Thread starter Terry Koontz
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It only took you four years to perfect coilmaking, @CMD-Ky ????
You should see my coils, it's gonna be a long decade....
I'm a slow learner too, I'm thinking I will reach mech mod levels in my late 80s. You know, once I'm really ready to die, anyway.... LOL.
Thankfully, juicemaking seems to be in my wheelhouse.
Anna
You should see my coils, it's gonna be a long decade....
I'm a slow learner too, I'm thinking I will reach mech mod levels in my late 80s. You know, once I'm really ready to die, anyway.... LOL.Thankfully, juicemaking seems to be in my wheelhouse.
Anna
Just a heads up - Seller on eBay (selling off his/her collection) has relisted some of them and lowered a few prices this go-around. Still pretty high, but...
There's also a couple new listings (actual auction format for them) from a seller in New Zealand. Says S/H is $10, which isn't outrageous from there to the US.
There's also a couple new listings (actual auction format for them) from a seller in New Zealand. Says S/H is $10, which isn't outrageous from there to the US.
I have a ProVari Classic in my pocket ... and I am not afraid to use it
SXK Doggystyle 2K16 RTA
Single coil 29ga A1 Kanthal 8.5 wraps on 3mm 1.8-1.9ohms Cotton Bacon V2 8.6W
Molehill Mountain Art African Black Wood tip
Non-flavored Nicotine River 50/50 12-18mg
XTAR IMR 850mAh 18350 button top
SXK Doggystyle 2K16 RTA
Single coil 29ga A1 Kanthal 8.5 wraps on 3mm 1.8-1.9ohms Cotton Bacon V2 8.6W
Molehill Mountain Art African Black Wood tip
Non-flavored Nicotine River 50/50 12-18mg
XTAR IMR 850mAh 18350 button top
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Had a weird thing just happen, vaping a P2.5. After owning them for 3 years I finally had one "fail" as in stop working momentarily. Never happened before. I was vaping, I apparently went into the menu settings in an unintended way, and it stopped firing. The display read "--" as in the "spacer" displays between settings. And it was locked up. I unscrewed the battery cap enough for the display to go dead (now unpowered) and then tightened it up and it has been working fine since.
Is this a known quirk or did I discover a bug?
Is this a known quirk or did I discover a bug?
happens.Weird anomalous things happen with electronics from time to time. Do you stretch and strange the spring on a regular basis?
No, I haven't. It was not used for about a year, and I just started using it again. Good idea.
Weird anomalous things happen with electronics from time to time. Do you stretch and strange the spring on a regular basis?
ETA: it was stored without a battery installed. But it may have been compressed from when I first got it and used it regularly "for awhile".
I've had it happen a couple or three times a year ... usually when I'm changing a battery. The lights will flash while fiddling with getting the threads on the end cap ... so my guess is fast sequential intermittent connect/disconnect while getting the end cap lined up ... then no display when the fire switch is engaged. Removing and reinserting the end cap solves it. Clean/check all connections and threads.
EDIT: ... might also check the board isn't loose or has moved ... still stable
It happens to me. Some day I'll learn not to sit here with my damn finger resting on the button.
The way it happens to me, I consider it more of my unintentionally activating some sort of safety feature rather than a bug, quirk ... or egg. Who knows LOL. Hope it stays sorted for ya !!!
Sometimes if your finger is not squarely on the button when firing, it can close the circuit of the switch to a point where it is barely on and can go on and off while you are hitting it, winding you up into the menu. The -- indicates you were between menu choices. It should have gone blank after about five seconds. If it didn't go off then maybe some component on your board is beginning to fail.
I have a unit that is about 4 years old now, and it is labeled for parts now. It will work fine for a while, then it will cut off and on while firing, other times it will fire fine. Sometimes it won't fire at all, but If I pull the battery for a day or so, it will work for a little while.
I'm keeping it because I will pull it apart some day, and keep the screen and stuff in case I damage another, and the top cap might get used on a home made box mod.
I have a unit that is about 4 years old now, and it is labeled for parts now. It will work fine for a while, then it will cut off and on while firing, other times it will fire fine. Sometimes it won't fire at all, but If I pull the battery for a day or so, it will work for a little while.
I'm keeping it because I will pull it apart some day, and keep the screen and stuff in case I damage another, and the top cap might get used on a home made box mod.
In reference to Enaud’s post:
How many have had Provaris that have died ?
How many have had Provaris that have died ?
I did read a story hear some time back about a guy that actually managed to smoke his Provari. He was using flat top batteries in his P2.5. He added a magnetic button top adapter to his flat top battery (this is specifically warned against in the P2.5 manual). Except he put the adapter on the negative end and put that end in first. It did not blow up or explode, just smoked. And the board was destroyed of course.
For those that do not know, the P2/P2.5 versions used a mechanical form of reverse polarity protection, where the positive contact point is embedded back in the board slightly, so that only a button top positive side can hit the contact. Putting that button top adapter on the battery, on the wrong end, defeated all that. Which is why Provape said Just.Don't Do.That!
I killed a Mini last year with a long flat tip screwdriver, messing where I shouldn't have been. Does that count? Sometimes I have good ideas and other times not so good. Apparently I have quite FANTASTIC ideas when I've had too much to drink.
It got about four years of hard use, it mostly had a dripper with a 1.2-1.4 ohm coil and was used while at the computer or watching tv.
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