Ares, new MTL RTA designed by Phil Busardo and Dimitirs Agrafiotis

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ian91

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Received mine today. Waited 66 days from efun.top!! Took off the diffuser and put in a protank grommet to bring the center hole down to 2.4mm. Coiled with 24gauge Kanthal 3.5mm 8 wraps came out as .66 ohm. Had to squeeze the coil down as it was shorting out against the top of the chimney. For me, this is an excellent tank. Flavor is first rate. Have only done two tankfuls but I think this is going to be one of my favorites. I am quite shocked as I did not expect this to be as good as it is given all of the bad reviews I have read in this thread. No seepage at all from the top but, as I said, have only done two tankfuls. I currently have the Siren 1, Siren 2 and Hastur MTL set up as well and the Ares compares favorably to all of them.
 
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callmeal

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Received mine today. Waited 66 days from efun.top!! Took off the diffuser and put in a protank grommet to bring the center hole down to 2.4mm. Coiled with 24gauge Kanthal 3.5mm 8 wraps came out as .66 ohm. Had to squeeze the coil down as it was shorting out against the top of the chimney. For me, this is an excellent tank. Flavor is first rate. Have only done two tankfuls but I think this is going to be one of my favorites. I am quite shocked as I did not expect this to be as good as it is given all of the bad reviews I have read in this thread. No seepage at all from the top but, as I said, have only done two tankfuls. I currently have the Siren 1, Siren 2 and Hastur MTL set up as well and the Ares compares favorably to all of them.

Not sure why you're shocked when you have fixed the airflow which is what most people have a problem with :thumbs:
 

IDJoel

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Anybody figure out how to remove the airflow ring yet?
I already asked the same here before and got no answer.
Odd... I'm reading:
It's screwed on and comes off very easily. I removed mine just using tweezers to unscrew it.
yes just a single hole I left the diffuser thingy off,it just screws off
So, removing the little screen that screws onto the hole under the coil lets lots and lots of air in. Also kills the flavour. And makes it louder. Predictably.
Yes the air diffuser screws off and on.
This was in direct responce to your inquery @Kusie; and can be found 2 posts after yours.
:confused:
 
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Kusie

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Hi,
I was talking/asking about the main metal air flow selektor ring on the base, the one where you can select one single or mutliple holes to vary our airflow, while all others were talking about the little AIR DIFFUSER (shower head) under the coil. This one seems to be screwed on and several people were successful in taking it off, but AFAIK noone ever was able to disassemble the whole base to access/clean the airflow channel.

K.
 

Cirus

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Not sure why you're shocked when you have fixed the airflow which is what most people have a problem with :thumbs:
I've only quickly scanned over most of the thread. Can someone breifly explain this airflow problem please? I've got my eye on the 2ML version. Thanks!
 

callmeal

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I've only quickly scanned over most of the thread. Can someone breifly explain this airflow problem please? I've got my eye on the 2ML version. Thanks!

I don't have the ares myself but it appears some people are saying the diffuser(shower head) style is too airy and mutes flavor
 

Brewdawg1181

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I've only quickly scanned over most of the thread. Can someone breifly explain this airflow problem please? I've got my eye on the 2ML version. Thanks!

I don't have the ares myself but it appears some people are saying the diffuser(shower head) style is too airy and mutes flavor

Yes, the shower head diffuser is removable, and threaded. It was easy to remove with pointy tweezers - it wasn't even really tight. I removed it, but that's a very wide port below it. What I'd originally wanted to do was drill out (enlarge) one or two of the smaller air intake holes in the base, but can't figure out how to remove the ring so that I don't get shavings inside. Sent an email to Innokin asking how, but no response.

Removing the shower head helps, but the port is way too large, and loses flavor because of all the air bypassing the coil, even with a 3mm dia coil. I'd inserted part of a cut-off Aspire BVC coil in the port to reduce the Kayfun 5 and it helped a lot. But it's too loose to use in the Ares, and won't press fit.
Took off the diffuser and put in a protank grommet to bring the center hole down to 2.4mm.
Ian91- where can I get a Protank grommet to try this?
 

Brewdawg1181

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I've only quickly scanned over most of the thread. Can someone breifly explain this airflow problem please? I've got my eye on the 2ML version. Thanks!
Sorry, Cirus - realized I quoted you, but didn't answer your question. Many people love it, and don't have an issue at all with the airflow. For me, the problem is twofold: I'm used to the KM3 with removed AF screw. Although it creates a very open draw, I can pace the draw and get a very solid, dense vape with great throat hit. When I reduce the flow with an AF ring in the Kayfun 5, Prime, and Ares, I get lots of flavor and vapor, but it's just not as dense and defined - something in reducing the airflow this way creates turbulence, and excess air. Second, in the Ares, the diffuser is wider than the coil, and allows too much air to bypass the coil. So again, I'm getting great volumes of vapor, and good flavor, but it's just not as defined a throat hit.
I think If i can reduce that air port, or drill out an intake hole, I can (like the KM3), do an open draw, well paced, and get the throat hit I want. I'm hoping so because although I love my KM3's, I really like the easy build, capacity, height, and other features of the Ares. And Ares' TH is better for me than K5 or Prime, so it's getting close. But if not, I'm thinking of trying the Hastur or Skyline, with their port insert options.
 

ian91

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Yes, the shower head diffuser is removable, and threaded. It was easy to remove with pointy tweezers - it wasn't even really tight. I removed it, but that's a very wide port below it. What I'd originally wanted to do was drill out (enlarge) one or two of the smaller air intake holes in the base, but can't figure out how to remove the ring so that I don't get shavings inside. Sent an email to Innokin asking how, but no response.

Removing the shower head helps, but the port is way too large, and loses flavor because of all the air bypassing the coil, even with a 3mm dia coil. I'd inserted part of a cut-off Aspire BVC coil in the port to reduce the Kayfun 5 and it helped a lot. But it's too loose to use in the Ares, and won't press fit.

Ian91- where can I get a Protank grommet to try this?
You need a protank or aerotank coil. Pull out the 510 pin and then the grommet. It has 2 lips on it. I cut off the smaller of the 2 and slide it into the central air channel.
$3.79 Universal Dual Coil Unit for Kanger Clearomizer (5-Pack) 5-pack - 1.5ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
 

Brewdawg1181

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You need a protank or aerotank coil. Pull out the 510 pin and then the grommet. It has 2 lips on it. I cut off the smaller of the 2 and slide it into the central air channel.
Vape shops are such a rip. Didn't want to wait a few weeks, so I got a single coil today at a shop close to my office, and it cost me $4.29. But hopefully, it'll save me a $40 tank.:thumbs:
You're talking about this- the rubber grommet, right?
upload_2018-1-16_17-59-9.png

For the K5, I used the pin of the Aspire BVC coil after dremeling off the part at the horizontal hole, so just want to be sure. And thanks, Ian, for posting this possible solution!

Since the (stupid) shower head screws off, and the Siren, Hastur, and Skyline all offered different inserts, seems odd that Phil chose not to go the multiple insert route (or at least something that directed the air to the coil instead of around). Not too late, they could offer it aftermarket. And as someone else pointed out, I hate to say it, but the obnoxious Vic seems to have been spot on with this observation- how did they miss this?

If this doesn't work, someone else mentioned sealing off some of the outer holes of the shower head...I may have to try that, but it sure is tiny to work with for my old eyes.
 

ian91

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That is the one. Snip off the small lip and then push the rest into the air channel with the thick lip sticking out. Will be a tight fit so it will not move once you get it in. I've been using this technique for a couple of years. Will be interested in hearing if it works for you. Four bucks is a crazy price for what you are getting!!!
 

Brewdawg1181

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Brewdawg1181

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That is the one. Snip off the small lip and then push the rest into the air channel with the thick lip sticking out. Will be a tight fit so it will not move once you get it in. I've been using this technique for a couple of years. Will be interested in hearing if it works for you. Four bucks is a crazy price for what you are getting!!!
It does help, thanks Ian. But I'm afraid I just can't get there from here. I'm beginning to really regret having started rta's with the KM3. It's what I've gotten used to, and it's just so unique that nothing else is really coming close enough to replace it.
I honestly believe if I'd started with another rta - the K5 or any of the larger ones, I'd be satisfied with the Prime, Ares, Digiflavor, or any of the newer mtl tanks. But I'm becoming convinced that a large part of my issue is that the KM3 chamber/chimney is so narrow, that 22-24mm tanks just can't give that same condensed throat hit. I've built and rebuilt, tried to adjust my pace and style of pulling in the vape, and just can't get used to another tank...none quite satisfy me. Kind of a bummer, because I'd like to take advantage of the size, ease of build, features, etc. of some of the newer tanks, but I'm just too particular. It seems I just keep wasting money on drawer ornaments & givaways.
 
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