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Thanks for the shout-out El 
Hi Hollyberry....the 2 methods I highly endorse are the Drip and Syringe Methods to refilling. The one method I highly advise against is the Condom Method.
Here is an active link to my Youtube Channel: Kanal von TeamKR808 - YouTube
I would suggest watching the following videos:
Drip Refilling Method (no audio) A video is worth a 1,000 words
Syringe Method for Refilling KR808 Cartomizers
How Many Drop in 1 ML...The Condom Method Sucks
Hope that helps..... and remember Friends Don't Let Friends Use The Condom Method
Hi Hollyberry....the 2 methods I highly endorse are the Drip and Syringe Methods to refilling. The one method I highly advise against is the Condom Method.
Here is an active link to my Youtube Channel: Kanal von TeamKR808 - YouTube
I would suggest watching the following videos:
Drip Refilling Method (no audio) A video is worth a 1,000 words
Syringe Method for Refilling KR808 Cartomizers
How Many Drop in 1 ML...The Condom Method Sucks
Hope that helps..... and remember Friends Don't Let Friends Use The Condom Method
over in another thread:
I have a stealth regular, and it seems to take longer to charge than my single-logo clearance XL manual.... and the PCC flash to indicate it is finished charging is really slow (vs the faster flash of the xl manual). Does flash speed mean anything? does charge time mean anything? Can the ash cap be popped off and then re-attached on the Diamond? After say I've roughened its surface to remove shine?
I have a stealth regular, and it seems to take longer to charge than my single-logo clearance XL manual.... and the PCC flash to indicate it is finished charging is really slow (vs the faster flash of the xl manual). Does flash speed mean anything? does charge time mean anything? Can the ash cap be popped off and then re-attached on the Diamond? After say I've roughened its surface to remove shine?
Plarkinjr sir what charger are you using? As for the pcc, the few times I've used mine it did take longer to charge a kd/stealth than one from the vapor king line. Never been able to remove the stealth or diamond cap without damaging the batt (should say chip under the cap). They share the same technology though (with the stealth having a slight boost due to the lack of led), so why even bother switching the caps?
I have a wall charger, and am considering adding a slim charger, but the observation I posted above was based on the PCC.
Why bother messing with caps? Because I'm vain in that I do not want to LOOK vain
The diamond and bling terms scare me... I'm not a flashy guy: dress in earth tones mostly. The dull translucent ones on the Single Logo models I like (and I even put a condom on the end so I can see the thing light while puffing). But it sounds like its worth it to get a diamond model and give it a shot (maybe the condom trick is my answer). What's the "Titan Series" I saw mentioned in one of the YouTube vids?
Thanks for the 411!
The Titan Series are the newest generations of V4L batteries that feature a 20 seconds cut-off and faster activation switch. Prior to their release all batteries ran under the Vapor King Logo. As Morandir noted the jeweled end cap on the Diamond VK and Diamond Titan Series batteries cannot be easily removed like the prior generation of batteries.
This leaves 2 choices...a Stealth Battery...or Standard XL battery where you can remove the end cap by simply placing a needle in the inset notch to pop it off. At which point you could put something inside the cap to block the light and reattach it.
However, the LED does serve a purpose as an indicator for charging Battery Charging and Battery life. So that would be a factor you might want to consider before making an alterations.
This leaves 2 choices...a Stealth Battery...or Standard XL battery where you can remove the end cap by simply placing a needle in the inset notch to pop it off. At which point you could put something inside the cap to block the light and reattach it.
However, the LED does serve a purpose as an indicator for charging Battery Charging and Battery life. So that would be a factor you might want to consider before making an alterations.
What Snow sir said. 
Technically the king diamond batts (which when they were first released on the invoice would say Vapor King Diamond) are now the vapor titan batts when the second tuition were released. They'll always be king diamond batts to me for pretty obvious reasons (see current avatar).
Technically the king diamond batts (which when they were first released on the invoice would say Vapor King Diamond) are now the vapor titan batts when the second tuition were released. They'll always be king diamond batts to me for pretty obvious reasons (see current avatar).I have a wall charger, and am considering adding a slim charger, but the observation I posted above was based on the PCC.
Why bother messing with caps? Because I'm vain in that I do not want to LOOK vain
What's the "Titan Series" I saw mentioned in one of the YouTube vids?
Thanks for the 411!
All diamonds are automatics and automatics need the airflow coming through the little holes on the side of the end cap. Airflow through the carto/batt connection alone will provide a stifled draw. HTH.
Yeah, there's definately benefit to the LED (I have a Stealth and miss the LED on it), but I worry about the Diamond's end being a beacon or something. Ah well, worth a risk. One will go into my next order.
And ThankU4Vaping, thank you for reminding me: a condom on the end of an auto will kill the draw.
So about a year ago, I had the habit completely kicked....
Gave ALL my v4l equipment and juices away to a needing person
Now I'm smoking again... Haha!!
So I need to order some stuff. Any current discounts?
I used to get emails all the time but I think I got dropped off the list due to non use
Thanks!
C
Gave ALL my v4l equipment and juices away to a needing person
Now I'm smoking again... Haha!!
So I need to order some stuff. Any current discounts?
I used to get emails all the time but I think I got dropped off the list due to non use
Thanks!
C
I am sorry to hear that Macscac is smoking again, however if he/she returns to vaping......that will bring the grand total of Vapers in Idaho up to 4.
Now I know what your thinking.... Only 4? Hey, it's all relative considering there are only 27 of us that live in this state.
Now I know what your thinking.... Only 4? Hey, it's all relative considering there are only 27 of us that live in this state.
Ok, here's a few for you folks who've been vaping a while....
Ya know when you've been topping off a carto with drops, it seems like after a while it takes fewer and fewer drops to saturate it and getting vapor? is that because the juice remaining behind is drying out? Can a few drops of something (water or vodka) be added to revive it so that you can finish up whatever juice is remaining behind? And when this happens, is the carto done? Or, will cleaning those (soaked in vodka, then dried) revive them as nicely as it does for once-used carto's?
Ya know when you've been topping off a carto with drops, it seems like after a while it takes fewer and fewer drops to saturate it and getting vapor? is that because the juice remaining behind is drying out? Can a few drops of something (water or vodka) be added to revive it so that you can finish up whatever juice is remaining behind? And when this happens, is the carto done? Or, will cleaning those (soaked in vodka, then dried) revive them as nicely as it does for once-used carto's?
plarkinjr, I have had success re-using carts for quite awhile. Cleaning them enables you to use them multiple times, some more than others. Sometimes the cart burns, others it seems that it's just impossible to vape, so toss em. Hope this helps.
As for salvaging the remaining few drops on a poorly performing carto, just toss it some water for cleaning and move on. A regular cleaning schedule every couple of days will keep your Carto at peak performance.
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OK, here's one for ya....
I'm cleaning a bunch of cartos. And I do a "test draw" with my mouth on them.
Some otherwise identical ones (e.g. silver coolcart blanks from the same box, all used twice with the same juice) have a noticeably tighter/stiffer draw than others.
I look thru the center tube and they "look" dimensionally equal (but 45+ eyes looking thru such a small space are hardly a reliable measure).
Does looser or tighter mean "more likely burned"? should I twist the center post on any of them to tighten/loosen the draw? Should I try to run a toothpick down the center? Should I try to bend the wire above the polyfill to try to center them? Or am I just trying to read too much into normal variables?
I'm cleaning a bunch of cartos. And I do a "test draw" with my mouth on them.
Some otherwise identical ones (e.g. silver coolcart blanks from the same box, all used twice with the same juice) have a noticeably tighter/stiffer draw than others.
I look thru the center tube and they "look" dimensionally equal (but 45+ eyes looking thru such a small space are hardly a reliable measure).
Does looser or tighter mean "more likely burned"? should I twist the center post on any of them to tighten/loosen the draw? Should I try to run a toothpick down the center? Should I try to bend the wire above the polyfill to try to center them? Or am I just trying to read too much into normal variables?
Plarkinjr sir doesn't mean burned so much as the filler and wicking material is still clogged with juice remnants. Higher vg juices (like the usa line which is your preference) have greater potential to cause this than higher pg juices.
Plarkinjr sir doesn't mean burned so much as the filler and wicking material is still clogged with juice remnants. Higher vg juices (like the usa line which is your preference) have greater potential to cause this than higher pg juices.
OK, I'll put those hard-to-draw ones thru a second round of cleaning - with a longer soak time. Maybe a boil. (and toss them if no improvement)
Which reminds me of another question I've had.... has anyone done any tests to determine if say 120-proof vodka is a better solvent of those dried juices than hot water?
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