Atmistique Atomizers

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raqball

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Gurgling is usually related to flooding..

a few things to check

1) Is the juice hole centered between the wick ends
2) Coil wrapped to lightly on the wick

Are you are using the coils that I made up and sent you? If so, I just checked the few I have left and they are wrapped a little to loose on the wick..

Maybe try unwinding them and wrapping them again a little tighter on the wick.
 

digitals

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Gurgling is usually related to flooding..

a few things to check

1) Is the juice hole centered between the wick ends
2) Coil wrapped to lightly on the wick

Are you are using the coils that I made up and sent you? If so, I just checked the few I have left and they are wrapped a little to loose on the wick..

Maybe try unwinding them and wrapping them again a little tighter on the wick.

Yanno, what's weird is it was vaping really nice for half the tank and then bam. I have been using your coils since I received them, and had zero issues at all. Once I transferred to the Scuba, it ran good for a half tank, then flavor changes on me.

It is a fantastic vape though. This issue makes no sense.:blink:
 
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Kataphraktos

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Just got home, and I refilled my Scuba = same thing. I shelved it for a few. I will pick it back up later this evening. So confusing really. The Diver pumps out tons of vapor, and it has been my goto at home.

So something changes when juice stops covering some point in the top half of the tank. I would carefully take it apart and check for any cracks in the plastic.
 

digitals

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So something changes when juice stops covering some point in the top half of the tank. I would carefully take it apart and check for any cracks in the plastic.

Everything looks legit. I've yet to totally disassemble, but I might get into that this weekend. Thanks for the replies ;)
 

digitals

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I used to have that issue. Towards the end of the tanks, it will gurgle a little. Guess it's the tank's pressure change? What I did was play around with the wicks' length and thickness (I'm using cotton).

That will be my next setup; cotton wick or longer wicks on the current media. I'm relating it to over feeding, which means I don't have enough wick in there. I followed a vid on the build.

What would be wrong with doubled over silica? Top legs cut even, and bottom legs hanging down to catch the extra..
 

Kataphraktos

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For all those who experience leaking Divers: I may have found a build with a little trick that seems to address this. I actually developed this from the default Grail build, which loops one side of the wick around the ceramic.

I have been running this for about a week now. I have been using ceramics that I know to be notoriously leak-prone. One ceramic even has a small chip missing at the top. I have been testing using three Divers, in a Scuba, a Phiniac Phinque and a Kir Fanis Tripolitis.

Not in the SnP yet, I shattered my last Pyrex and I'm waiting for the SS tube to arrive - I will test it here as well.

Prior to this test, my experience was:

SnP: leak, leak, leak. Had given up on Diver in my SnP.
Scuba: Zero juice on connector, barely any condensation after sitting on tissue for 2 days, as long as the tank was not filled past about 70%.
Kir Fanis Tripolitis: small dribbling overnight.
Phiniac Phinique with titanium caps (no recess for flange): Rarely ever even see condensation through multiple fills to 100%. Strange, because this is by far the most "primitive" of these tanks. It is basically a large, thick Pyrex block with titanium caps and o-rings - no fancy fill ports, no super smooth threading, just an old school tank. Everything fits and works well, but you can tell the SnP and the Scuba are made to a much higher spec. And yet, it tames the Diver with a generic coil build like no other tank.

The build: I use either 3 strands of 1mm Ekowool or 1 each of 1mm or 2mm Ekowool (the latter is pictured below). The bottom strand must be 1mm. I keep the top strands at full length to climb up the chimney for extra flavor (as discussed previously in this thread).

20131102_130643.jpg

The bottom 1mm Ekowool strand is trimmed on both ends to about 1cm on each side. Each of these is then wound around the side of the ceramic.

20131102_131932.jpg

Holding both of the wick ends wrapped around the ceramic, install the chimney. Some of the 1mm bottom strand will fray off as you screw the chimney on. This is fine, just unscrew and blow or wipe off the bits that have come away. It should look something like this before you start screwing the chimney on:

20131102_132631.jpg

Results with this build:

Scuba: No leaks, barely any condensation after sitting overnight, filled multiple times to 95% capacity.
Kir Fanis Tripolitis: No leaks, barely any condensation after sitting overnight, filled multiple times to 95% capacity.
Phiniac Phinique: No leaks, barely any condensation after sitting overnight, filled multiple times to 95% capacity.

I will be trying this in my SnP as soon as the SS tube arrives.

Please note: all attys develop condensation over time on the 510 connector. My Ithakas, Spheroids, Divers, and Killer all do this, some faster than others.

I do hope others will try this out and provide feedback, especially some of the folks who seem to have chronic leaking issues.
 

Konstantinos

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@Kataphraktos: smart use of ekowool :) . pg/vg you use in these setup?

@digitals: hold at one hand the one cap (at the cap only your hand) and with the other hand the other cap (at the cap only your hand) and pull.....one of the two caps will come off.Then you can push the other cap from inside the tank and it will come off
 
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