atmizoo by atmizone - General Discussion for current and upcoming Projects.

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tmcase

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one thing i found on my dingo was that if the atomizer was tightened to much, it pushed the floating button down a bit and caused the shaft of the button and the pins to grind. do you still get the crunchy throw if you press it with no atomizer attached?

i tuned it a bit by a 1/2 turn tighter on the positive pin and my throw returned to "stock" silky.

Yes, it still is rubbing on something with or without a carto tank on it. It even feels like it's catching on something and is clicky. My old one has a what you call a "stock" silky press.
 

tmcase

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oh, and i see you have a roller, maybe back out the telescoping a half turn? it doesn't need to be super tight to keep the battery from rattling.

It's not super tight but I backed it off until it wouldn't fire and tightened up a couple turns because the battery was starting to rattle but it's still clicky, not quiet like my old one.
 

theops

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Try this:

Remove your atomizer, and remove the ball bearing + little spring completely. Also remove the black delrin washer that sits around the button. How does the button feel now? Still grinding against something?

Also: Do you see any rough machining marks on the inside of the delrin switch housing? Look for circular groove-like marks.

Feel free to share your findings here, but also send an e-mail to support [at] atmizoo.com to sort this out ;)
 

theops

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one thing i found on my dingo was that if the atomizer was tightened to much, it pushed the floating button down a bit and caused the shaft of the button and the pins to grind. do you still get the crunchy throw if you press it with no atomizer attached?

i tuned it a bit by a 1/2 turn tighter on the positive pin and my throw returned to "stock" silky.

I've seen that before, it's probably a result of a tight delrin button washer, or a *slightly* shorter/worn reinforcement ring. If it doesn't bother you, you can remove the delrin button washer completely. Otherwise, just report this to support and we'll work something out!

I have also seen this issue on units returned for servicing that had the top threads of the main tube sanded down!
 
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tmcase

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Try this:

Remove your atomizer, and remove the ball bearing + little spring completely. Also remove the black delrin washer that sits around the button. How does the button feel now? Still grinding against something?

Also: Do you see any rough machining marks on the inside of the delrin switch housing? Look for circular groove-like marks.

Feel free to share your findings here, but also send an e-mail to support [at] atmizoo.com to sort this out ;)

With the ball bearing out it doesn't rub so this seems to be the problem but there is no way that I can press the ball bearing 1/2 inside the spring tube. The ball bearing is bigger than the hole. I didn't see any rough machining.
 

theops

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With the ball bearing out it doesn't rub so this seems to be the problem but there is no way that I can press the ball bearing 1/2 inside the spring tube. The ball bearing is bigger than the hole. I didn't see any rough machining.

That's odd, the ball is 2.0mm and the hole 2.1mm, so it's designed to fit there.

Regarding voltage drop, this might shed some light:

Voltage Drop - Where and Why | atmizoo vaping modware

The AW IMR 18500 has a voltage drop of 0.2V on its internal resistance under a 1.0 Ohm load. About half as much with a 2.0 Ohm load.

In comparison, the voltage of the 18350 drops by about 0.25 when powering a 1.0 Ohm load.

The voltage drop on the mod should be about 0.10 V @ 1.0 Ohm, so if you are getting a v-drop of 0.3 V and your resistance is in the range of 1.0 Ohm, that's perfect.
 

tmcase

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That's odd, the ball is 2.0mm and the hole 2.1mm, so it's designed to fit there.

Regarding voltage drop, this might shed some light:

Voltage Drop - Where and Why | atmizoo vaping modware

The AW IMR 18500 has a voltage drop of 0.2V on its internal resistance under a 1.0 Ohm load. About half as much with a 2.0 Ohm load.

In comparison, the voltage of the 18350 drops by about 0.25 when powering a 1.0 Ohm load.

The voltage drop on the mod should be about 0.10 V @ 1.0 Ohm, so if you are getting a v-drop of 0.3 V and your resistance is in the range of 1.0 Ohm, that's perfect.

Then the ball bearing is too big because it will not go into the hole. It won't on either of my Rollers. :confused:

As far as voltage drop...I get a .3v drop with both Rollers using a 1.5 ohm atty. Is that normal? It seems to be working ok, I just don't like that scratchy button press on the new Roller.

It's strange that I have a smooth button press on the old Roller and that ball bearing just sits on top of the spring hole. It won't go down inside either. :confused:
 

COM76

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Just for those that may have not seen it yet, Todd gives an initial 'look' at the Guppy and Bayou. This is not a review but it gives you a few nice close ups and initial impressions. Looking forward to the full review. Thanks Atmizoo for sending one out to him First Look - Atmizoo Guppy & Bayou - YouTube
 

theops

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Then the ball bearing is too big because it will not go into the hole. It won't on either of my Rollers. :confused:

As far as voltage drop...I get a .3v drop with both Rollers using a 1.5 ohm atty. Is that normal? It seems to be working ok, I just don't like that scratchy button press on the new Roller.

It's strange that I have a smooth button press on the old Roller and that ball bearing just sits on top of the spring hole. It won't go down inside either. :confused:

The spring will normally keep it out, perhaps that's what you mean? If you press the ball bearing, it will get into the hole and then the spring will push it out again. If you take out that little spring and compress it a bit between your fingers, the ball bearing will sit a bit deeper in the hole and make the feel softer. The ideal spring length is such that leaves about 1/2-2/3 of the ball out. So the ball *should* be sitting on top of the spring hole - the percentage of it that's out affects the hardness of the switch.

Springs have a manufacturing tolerance of about 0.2mm in length and minor stiffness differences.

There shouldn't be any problem with the ball or the hole itself, they are all machined using the same tool and the ball bearings have less than a 0.01mm tolerance. If in doubt, you can try one of the other ones that came in the mod's box!

The voltage drop depends on the type/size and condition of the battery. With a 1.5 Ohm load you could ideally reach a voltage drop of about 0.15 V using a 18500 AW IMR in mint condition. Add at least a 0.05 V on the mod under ideal conditions and you get to 0.2 V.

If your battery has a higher internal resistance than the 18500 AW IMR, your readings will be worse.

If you use a 18500/650, the voltage drop on the mod can be minimised by keeping the telescope tight or by removing the spring altogether. In 18350 mode, the spring must be shiny clean and stretched to a length of at least 18mm!
 
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tmcase

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The spring will normally keep it out, perhaps that's what you mean? If you press the ball bearing, it will get into the hole and then the spring will push it out again. If you take out that little spring and compress it a bit between your fingers, the ball bearing will sit a bit deeper in the hole and make the feel softer. The ideal spring length is such that leaves about 1/2-2/3 of the ball out. So the ball *should* be sitting on top of the spring hole - the percentage of it that's out affects the hardness of the switch.

Springs have a manufacturing tolerance of about 0.2mm in length and minor stiffness differences.

There shouldn't be any problem with the ball or the hole itself, they are all machined using the same tool and the ball bearings have less than a 0.01mm tolerance. If in doubt, you can try one of the other ones that came in the mod's box!

The voltage drop depends on the type/size and condition of the battery. With a 1.5 Ohm load you could ideally reach a voltage drop of about 0.15 V using a 18500 AW IMR in mint condition. Add at least a 0.05 V on the mod under ideal conditions and you get to 0.2 V.

If your battery has a higher internal resistance than the 18500 AW IMR, your readings will be worse.

If you use a 18500/650, the voltage drop on the mod can be minimised by keeping the telescope tight or by removing the spring altogether. In 18350 mode, the spring must be shiny clean and stretched to a length of at least 18mm!

I tried compressing the spring that came with the Roller several times but it wouldn't compress. The ball bearing just sat on top of the hole and rolled off several times. I tried the extra spring and ball bearing that came with the Roller and pressed the ball bearing in the hole as hard as I could and it didn't roll off as easily so I reassembled it and it is better. I still feel a catch now and then. For example...when I press the button very slowly, at about the half way point it snaps (for lack of a better word) down the rest of the way. It's still not as smooth as my old R40 Roller but is better than it was.

I only use AW IMR 18490 batteries in the Roller. Some of my batteries are old and some are fairly new. I have not idea if some are stress or not. They all hit 4.17 to 4.21 fully charged. I haven't tried using it without the spring because I thought it was there for safety. I use a short stop so I guess I could try that but the .3v drop I'm getting doesn't seem to be a problem.

Thanks for your help and if you have anymore suggestions I'm all ears. :)
 

theops

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I tried compressing the spring that came with the Roller several times but it wouldn't compress. The ball bearing just sat on top of the hole and rolled off several times. I tried the extra spring and ball bearing that came with the Roller and pressed the ball bearing in the hole as hard as I could and it didn't roll off as easily so I reassembled it and it is better. I still feel a catch now and then. For example...when I press the button very slowly, at about the half way point it snaps (for lack of a better word) down the rest of the way. It's still not as smooth as my old R40 Roller but is better than it was.

I only use AW IMR 18490 batteries in the Roller. Some of my batteries are old and some are fairly new. I have not idea if some are stress or not. They all hit 4.17 to 4.21 fully charged. I haven't tried using it without the spring because I thought it was there for safety. I use a short stop so I guess I could try that but the .3v drop I'm getting doesn't seem to be a problem.

Thanks for your help and if you have anymore suggestions I'm all ears. :)

Hm, could you perhaps send an e-mail to support, then we can check some more things :) The short-stop introduces some extra resistance + voltage drop, but if you use it, you can at least take out the spring ;)
 

Frankenmizer

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Just tried the Bayou (long version) with a Boge SR XL carto. The top does not seal against the carto (no o-ring), the bottom does not allow the carto to screw snugly into the base of either my Nemesis or my ProVari. Lost juice to flooding because of the inadequate top seal..I'm confused and disappointed.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong.

Followup: I checked the standard Bayou, and yep there's an o-ring section that is entirely missing from the long version.
 
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theops

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Just tried the Bayou (long version) with a Boge SR XL carto. The top does not seal against the carto (no o-ring), the bottom does not allow the carto to screw snugly into the base of either my Nemesis or my ProVari. Lost juice to flooding because of the inadequate top seal..I'm confused and disappointed.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong.

Followup: I checked the standard Bayou, and yep there's an o-ring section that is entirely missing from the long version.

Perhaps the top seal is missing from the tank? Just contact support and we'll get this sorted asap :)
 

greghemmings

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Hello all!

I just purchased my first Atmizoo product...a Roller SS-IM. I should get it Wednesday and am very excited! I already have a Just GG and am very impressed with Greek mods! I bought the Roller after reading all the great reviews and talking to friends that have them. Has anyone used their Roller with a Kraken RBA or an RSST? Have you used your Roller with a Kick 2? :toast:
 

tmcase

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Hello all!

I just purchased my first Atmizoo product...a Roller SS-IM. I should get it Wednesday and am very excited! I already have a Just GG and am very impressed with Greek mods! I bought the Roller after reading all the great reviews and talking to friends that have them. Has anyone used their Roller with a Kraken RBA or an RSST? Have you used your Roller with a Kick 2? :toast:

I've used my Roller with the orig kick and it worked intermittently. I haven't tried it with the kick 2 so I would be interested in hearing how well it works too.
 
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