Atomizer Cleaned ! Simple Cheap Effective Method.

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parapo

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Nov 23, 2008
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from the german forum ----

Unglaublich aber wahr.
Nochmal 24 h in neuem EM super strong Reinigungsflüssigkeit

I think this says soaked 24 hours in EM superstrong -------

but the pix are incredible.....
we need someone to get this - EM stuff, and try it....

Di ......

it actually says:
another 24 hours in new EM super strong cleaning fluid.
 
So much happening these days I couldn't look into the german site info as yet. But the H2O2 is looking good. And I can say that there is very good news on its way regarding a strong phosphoric acid cleaner too (same acid as in coke but much much more concentrated). Sun will post on this tomorrow. The combination (peroxide first) should prove almost unbeatable. Sun also has a new idea on how deposits can kill atomizers but I'll let him tell that himself. Just wanted to say that things are looking up :)

parapo - exogenesis put a lot of time into looking at H2O2 and documented what he did; have a look and see if you can duplicate his success :)
 
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exogenesis

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Looking forward to seeing the strong phosphoric acid tests.

50% H2O2 thats strong!, I'd like to get hold of some of that to test with.

If it's not got anything bad added, then I can't see any reason not to try it,
i.e. if it's food / pharma / analar (pure) grade.

Presumably it'll work even quicker/better than 30%.

Yes, I tried simple long-term (days) soaking & also simple immersion boiling
(on other gunked coils), they bubbled very slowly but no real coil-cleaning effect,
whereas the 'super-boil-in-place' does it's works practically immediately.
 
Has anyone here tried experimenting with CLR yet?

Here's the material safety data sheet:

http://www.bemidjistate.edu/offices/environmental_health_safety/msds/clr_clcm_lm.pdf


As can be seen, it contains 3 different acidic components...

Component CAS# PEL/TLV %

1. Water 7732-18-5 NE 68-74
2. Glycolic Acid 79-14-1 NE 13-16 (Glycolic acid - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)
3. Sulfamic Acid 5329-14-6 NE 3-6 (Sulfamic acid - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)
4. Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate 68815-55-4 NE 4-7
5. Ethylene Glycol n-Butyl Ether 111-76-2 20 ppm TLV 1-4
6. Citric Acid 77-92-9 NE 1-4 (Citric acid - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)
 

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entropic

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not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet, but I only have suck-activated-batteries and so I came up with the idea that you take the little rubber things that come with your e-juices at the top of the pipets and remove it from the plastic and glass then cover then squeeze it, cover the hole in your atomizer and a vacuum will be made to activate the battery unfortunately for me i'll have to do it a couple of times since my batts have that silly too long vape feature :). Gonna try this later since i need to pop into boots for some hydo stuff.

Peace out,
 

parapo

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Nov 23, 2008
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Greece
Looking forward to seeing the strong phosphoric acid tests.

50% H2O2 thats strong!, I'd like to get hold of some of that to test with.

If it's not got anything bad added, then I can't see any reason not to try it,
i.e. if it's food / pharma / analar (pure) grade.

Presumably it'll work even quicker/better than 30%.

Yes, I tried simple long-term (days) soaking & also simple immersion boiling
(on other gunked coils), they bubbled very slowly but no real coil-cleaning effect,
whereas the 'super-boil-in-place' does it's works practically immediately.

our 50% H2O2 is food grade...(from degussa)..... pure.
no other ingredients. in fact it's The only one i can get......
i'll get some this tuesday,try it and post the results.
 
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ZambucaLu

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I read on another Forum of people using Denture cleaner the fizzing tablet kind. Has anyone here tried to use this? I think I might try it on one of my older atomizers.

I first tried plain water...it was ok.
Then I tried white vinegar...it was ok.
Then I tried the denture tabs....no different than the first 2.
Then I tired oxyclean....no different than the first 2.
So far my favorite has been rubbing alcohol....but I might try the coke or lemon in the future. I'm really waiting to see if they find something that actually dissolves the gunk rather than temporarily cleans the liquid out.

Lu
 

ZambucaLu

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Looking forward to your results parapo

SambucaLu have you had a go with this H2O2 method?,
when your tried oxyclean (active ingredients = very stong caustic & bleach),
did you use it undiluted & did you just soak it cold or heat it ?

I think I missed the H202 method. What did that involve? I'm not very good with using a lot of steps...or equipment....too time consuming...unless someone can prove it actually dissolves the crud...then I'd do what I had to do. For now, it's just been easier using the alcohol.

I have the powdered oxyclean so i put the atty in the water (which was hot so I made sure the stuff would dissolve)....poured in some oxyclean, then let it set. Honestly, I can't now recall how long I let it set but since I get lazy with following up on it right away, I would say it was some time. Then I rinsed it out very well. I thougt I'd try it since I had it on hand...but it really was nothing spectacular.

I tried both the polident and oxyclean thinking that the fizz might loosen the gunk but it didn't seem to do the job.

Lu
 

exogenesis

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Mar 1, 2009
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I know what you mean.

Maybe they should redesign atomizers, so that they've got no plastic or rubber parts, or solder...or paint.
Then we could just point a small blow torch into the coil to get it locally whit hot.

Edit:
Er, Lu this thread is (mostly) about the H2O2 method :D
see original post.

So oxyclean was hot, but diluted, it's just that I got a goodish
cleaning (dissolving) effect with strong boiling caustic, but I think
the metal mesh got partially blocked with precipitate .
 
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surbitonPete

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Jan 25, 2009
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I know what you mean.

Maybe they should redesign atomizers, so that they've got no plastic or rubber parts, or solder...or paint.
Then we could just point a small blow torch into the coil to get it locally whit hot.

that's what I was thinking too exo..... the black gunk will burn off if you get it white hot..but of course that destroys the rest of the atomizer.
 

ZambucaLu

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Nov 23, 2008
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I know what you mean.

Maybe they should redesign atomizers, so that they've got no plastic or rubber parts, or solder...or paint.
Then we could just point a small blow torch into the coil to get it locally whit hot.

Edit:
Er, Lu this thread is (mostly) about the H2O2 method :D
see original post.

So oxyclean was hot, but diluted, it's just that I got a goodish
cleaning (dissolving) effect with strong boiling caustic, but I think
the metal mesh got partially blocked with precipitate .

Ha! I just went back and looked at it....but to be honest, I've read so many posts since then, my head is spinning! But I do recall now that I thought it was a lot of steps to take so I was waiting to see how others did with it first.

Yes, the oxyclean was hot...from the tap...not boiling though.

Lu
 

awsapero

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Jan 8, 2009
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Brandon, FL
Note 2 : problem here for automatic batteries, how to activate withou t sucking on it yourself (!),
I guess use some sort of suction device (hoover, or maybe a rubber sqeezie-bulb as sold in aquarium shops).
I don't know if anyone has posted this, I didnt read through to check. But a good way to heat up your atomizer on a automatic batt is as follows.

Pull off the LED Lid cover on the end. Then when your atomizer on, use canned air, or if you need to just blow from your mouth into the LED end of the batt.
 

exogenesis

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Mar 1, 2009
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Thanks for that idea awsapero, damn good tip !


Ha! I just went back and looked at it....but to be honest, I've read so many posts since then, my head is spinning! But I do recall now that I thought it was a lot of steps to take so I was waiting to see how others did with it first.

Lu

I guess doing the moderator thing must be pretty taxing,
hope it's not discouraging you're enthusiasm :)

'a lot of steps' ??,
I thought it was fairly simple, I guess nearly all other cleaning
methods are going to have the common wash/rinse/etc at the beginning & end.

So here's a quick vid to show it happening for real on an intact atomizer:
YouTube - e-Cigarete Atomizer In-Place Clean Using H2O2
(There's some extra details in the 'details' section for this vid on YouTube proper)

Yeah yeah, those are nicotine stained fingers - I still smoke several a day real ciggies, maybe not for much longer.

No voice over cos I think it's all obvious, I was thinking the extra puff of
smoke/vapour at just after 2mins into the vid might indicate further stuff
coming off - unless it's just water vapour?

The croc clip is necessary cos the whole atomizer get damn hot!

Looking down the barrel I could see white fibres again,
and now that atomizer, which was very sour & burnt, now works & tastes great.
 
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Faethe

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Feb 12, 2009
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Orlando, Florida
Ha! I just went back and looked at it....but to be honest, I've read so many posts since then, my head is spinning! But I do recall now that I thought it was a lot of steps to take so I was waiting to see how others did with it first.

Yes, the oxyclean was hot...from the tap...not boiling though.

Lu

Try Borax. I was going to do the oxyclean thing because yeah, it fizzes and is not toxic or anything.
 
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