He didn't want a de-bridged atty, he wanted a de-wicked atty.
OP,
So you say you understand the issues with de-wicking an atty, does this mean you have tried it before? Because I have de-wicked a few attys, and it just doesn't work. Unless you have some sort of nozzle that's constantly spraying juice onto the coil, you will get extremely hot, thin, burnt vapor.
If the coil is completely submerged in juice, it won't vaporize properly. It will just heat the pool of juice up, possibly causing the pool of juice to explode into your mouth, burning your lips and tongue (this actually happened to me) or it will just produce almost zero vapor and just do nothing but gurgle.
If the coil is not submerged in juice, the instant you fire it up, nearly all of the juice will vaporize, taste burnt, and very hot, and have little vapor.
If it's half submerged, half not, the submerged half will do nothing, and the un-submerged half will burn and give you awful vapor.
That's my experience, I was not able to ever get a single hit that wasn't totally disgusting regardless of how much juice was in the atty. These were just regular 510 attys with the ceramic cup. You need a wick, without one it just wont work, unless you use some sort of continuous spray of juice directly on the coil.
If you don't believe me, and still want a wick-less atty, you won't be able to buy one because nobody makes them, as it would be silly to specifically design a product to not function at all. You'll have to remove the wick from a normal att, which actually isn't terribly difficult.
Screw the atty into something to get a good hold on the connector. You could use pliers, but this would likely damage the threads. I always use an old broken eGo battery when I'm removing tubes from connectors, be it attys or cartos. With the atty screwed down, apply pressure on the tube section in a side-to-side manner. You should be able to slowly pull the tube off of the base/connector.
Now you are left with the 510 connection, and the ceramic cup wrapped in nickle-foam, supported by two wires. After you remove the nickle foam, and bridge (if it had one) you should be able to easily slide the ceramic cup down the wires, which will leave the coil exposed at the end of the wires.
Now you can carefully pull the wick out sideways. Doing this while dry burning makes it easier, as there's no gunk to stick the wick to the coil, and the coil should be a little more pliable when it's hot. Once the wick is removed, you can slide the ceramic cup back up over the coil, re-wrap the cup with the nickle foam , and then press the tube back onto the base.
I generally remove a tiny bit of nickle foam so that I can slide the cup back into the tube a lot easier. You should now have a fully de-wicked atty that will give you months of thin, hot, nasty burnt vapor!
