Attack of the Hana Modz Clone. Let's wait together!

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retird

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No way. I'm not in for 1000 more drama love posts!!!! lol


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

LOL.... I may just hang around to see if a V2, V3, etc. of the clone comes out and where the price point goes or doesn't go....or I may just pop-in from time to time and read a bit....
 

jd1978

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Ive got a dead silver bought from WV. This particular mod just died one day. One morning I got out of bed and installed a battery into my previously working mod. The mod started firing continuously. So I pull my topper off and changed batteries. I then and currently only get a check atomizer reading. Everything else seems to work fine. I wasn't terribly concerned since I have a green from 101 that works near flawlessly. I did not send the mod back for replacement. Ive since pulled the red inside cover loose, wasn't hard. The internals look good. So It has to be a fried chip, IMO. My intent, and the reason why I did not seek redemption is thst I have ordered the Evolve dna 30 board, that I am going to install. I am also thinking of replacing the 510 connector. Has anyone else done this already?
 

retird

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Ive got a dead silver bought from WV. This particular mod just died one day. One morning I got out of bed and installed a battery into my previously working mod. The mod started firing continuously. So I pull my topper off and changed batteries. I then and currently only get a check atomizer reading. Everything else seems to work fine. I wasn't terribly concerned since I have a green from 101 that works near flawlessly. I did not send the mod back for replacement. Ive since pulled the red inside cover loose, wasn't hard. The internals look good. So It has to be a fried chip, IMO. My intent, and the reason why I did not seek redemption is thst I have ordered the Evolve DNA 30 board, that I am going to install. I am also thinking of replacing the 510 connector. Has anyone else done this already?

I've not seen any posts that somebody has replaced the dna board. My parts have not arrived yet and the 510 connector I chose isn't available till 6/16.

On a side note just as a bit of info. The DNA board has a ribbon cable that attaches the display to the board. The ribbon cable and display MUST be treated very gently as the display can easily be cracked with minimal pressure and the runs in the ribbon cable can be easily fractured if it is bent to sharply. The solder points where the ribbon cable attaches to the board are fragile and can break loose from the board. Thru the experience of many modders we have learned that a drop of super glue gel placed under the ribbon where it crosses the board will help strengthen the connection and take the stress off of the solder points. The ribbon cable/display on the clone board has the same design, thus they should be treated accordingly.

Just passing this to you so you consider it as you move forward on replacing the internals.
 

retird

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For those like me that didn't know what an EPM mod is.
IMG_0996.jpg

Hope I got it right.

Having not looked at this one nor checked into its design yet.... would it be correct that it uses 2 batteries in series as opposed to 2 batteries in parallel? Just curious if anybody knows......
 

retird

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Ive got a dead silver bought from WV. This particular mod just died one day. One morning I got out of bed and installed a battery into my previously working mod. The mod started firing continuously. So I pull my topper off and changed batteries. I then and currently only get a check atomizer reading. Everything else seems to work fine. I wasn't terribly concerned since I have a green from 101 that works near flawlessly. I did not send the mod back for replacement. Ive since pulled the red inside cover loose, wasn't hard. The internals look good. So It has to be a fried chip, IMO. My intent, and the reason why I did not seek redemption is thst I have ordered the Evolve DNA 30 board, that I am going to install. I am also thinking of replacing the 510 connector. Has anyone else done this already?

Just one more thought. If you want you can check continuity between the threads and the center pin of the 510 connector. If you have continuity then the 510 connector is shorted and there is a possibility that the dna board may still be good... just a thought...
 

cheesestain

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I've not seen any posts that somebody has replaced the dna board. My parts have not arrived yet and the 510 connector I chose isn't available till 6/16.

On a side note just as a bit of info. The DNA board has a ribbon cable that attaches the display to the board. The ribbon cable and display MUST be treated very gently as the display can easily be cracked with minimal pressure and the runs in the ribbon cable can be easily fractured if it is bent to sharply. The solder points where the ribbon cable attaches to the board are fragile and can break loose from the board. Thru the experience of many modders we have learned that a drop of super glue gel placed under the ribbon where it crosses the board will help strengthen the connection and take the stress off of the solder points. The ribbon cable/display on the clone board has the same design, thus they should be treated accordingly.

Just passing this to you so you consider it as you move forward on replacing the internals.

What parts did you order besides the DNA 30 chip and the 510 connector?

Are you going to add fuses also?
 

joecil

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Having not looked at this one nor checked into its design yet.... would it be correct that it uses 2 batteries in series as opposed to 2 batteries in parallel? Just curious if anybody knows......

Just watched a video on it and it is paired 18490 VW device. Menu is counting blinks all controlled by 1 click followed by 1 to 7 clicks. You find out what it means by the way it blinks back at you color wise and speed of the blinks. For example in Ohm mode for a 1.2 ohm coil it will blink 1 time slow followed by 2 quick blinks. This is how it tells you want Watts, volts ohms etc. I'm still not sure how it turns up or down and in what calibration method.

EPM 18490 VW review - YouTube
 

blueGrassTubb

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tons of people cancelled or switched to black

Yeah. But still, I'm going to be waiting a while. It doesn't matter much right now because I'm going out of town tomorrow for 18 days, and I already have a Green and Silver (I'm also taking an authentic DNA MOD - not a Hana - and a mech), so the Blue is NOT necessary right now.
 
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retird

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What parts did you order besides the DNA 30 chip and the 510 connector?

Are you going to add fuses also?

Replacing the dna board, usb charging board, 510 connector, and placing resettable fuses between the battery and the dna board. Probably will also need to replace the activation buttons. Ordered/waiting to order all but the buttons as I have those already...and still determining which style of fuse.
 

blueGrassTubb

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Morning coffee and a vape.....short night cause I lost track of time last night and turned in late....



Yep, you may be right that some may have been confused and/or even possibly scared...... and yes my opinion was/is that the internals are not ready for prime time and yes my opinion was/is that this device may be dangerous (I've not bought a single device nor built one that does not cause me to not respect the fact that things can happend).

On another note... It is interesting how vapers will (I guess) just naturally be inclined to defend to the end the device they use. You can see it throughout ECF..... Provari, Darwin, Reo, and etc. So, I understand the passion shown here for the Clone. I think when passion meets a list of issues, problems, quirks, or whatever you call them (compiled from post here, elsewhere, blogs, and etc.), then emotions tend to take over. I think this can/does lead to passionate debate.

What is also interesting is to read posts in other threads where somebody is trying to decide whether to buy an authentic or a clone. Many cons (quirks) were given for the authentic and only one for the clone (the double click) and the prospective buyer was told to buy the clone even tho the poster was aware of a list of quirks. Kinda misleading I think...





If you truely needed a device and could not afford to buy one... yes I'd give it to you...but the internals would be replaced first.

I'm one of those who steered a buyer towards the clone because despite the quirks, I simply couldn't justify the $180 markup on the Hana, especially considering they share the MOST COMMON VISUAL defects as the clones, and one of them, the crooked 510 connectors, seem FAR MORE PREVALENT on the Hana than the clones.
 
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