Attack of the Hana Modz Clone. Let's wait together!

[blueGrassTubb]

Having not looked at this one nor checked into its design yet.... would it be correct that it uses 2 batteries in series as opposed to 2 batteries in parallel? Just curious if anybody knows......

Yep.

I have a v2. 2 18490 or 18650 batteries in a series. The battery pack is made of AW IMR 18490s and VTC5 18650s. It works between 6.4 and 8.4v. You can view the manual here.

This is hands down the best vape I own. It's not a MOD for everyone (variable wattage 6W-34W with NO SCREEN), but once you get used to using it, it's a dream. It's meant for a vape-to-taste experience rather than people trying to stare at numbers all day.

There is visual feedback from the LED ring around the button that tells you all the info you know. All you need to do is ask.

The board is a custom board built by an unnamed party in Oz, and then hand programmed by said unnamed party and the modder, Eric Moray, and assembled all by hand.

 

[DPLongo22]

I'm one of those who steered a buyer towards the clone because despite the quirks, I simply couldn't justify the $180 markup on the Hana, especially considering they share the MOST COMMON VISUAL defects as the clones, and one of them, the crooked 510 connectors, seem FAR MORE PREVALENT on the Hana than the clones.

Have a nice trip, bGT. Take pictures.

My connector is perfectly straight, and I'm much more about the thing firing every time I press the button, than I am what it looks like. Those wraps are amazing things. ;-)

In the interest of full disclosure, I DID push the button through on one of them. But those who know me also know that it's not the mod's fault. Trent reinforced it for me, and the thing has taken a literal beating since. And it's never once not fired when I pushed it to do so. Immediately and quite effectively, I might add.

Just push play (as Aerosmith once said).

 

[blueGrassTubb]

Just watched a video on it and it is paired 18490 VW device. Menu is counting blinks all controlled by 1 click followed by 1 to 7 clicks. You find out what it means by the way it blinks back at you color wise and speed of the blinks. For example in Ohm mode for a 1.2 ohm coil it will blink 1 time slow followed by 2 quick blinks. This is how it tells you want Watts, volts ohms etc. I'm still not sure how it turns up or down and in what calibration method.

EPM 18490 VW review - YouTube

To RAISE the wattage:

Press the button once, when it starts blinking, press it once again. The ring around the LED will start to change color. Press the button again when it's where you want it.

To LOWER the wattage:

Press the button once, when it starts blinking, press it twice. The ring around the LED will start to change color. Press the button again when it's where you want it.

There is a color chart corresponding to the wattage levels ranging from:

Dark blue > Light Blue > Green > Yellow > Orange > Red

The board is programmed to raise and lower wattage at about .4W/second. I round it to .5W. If I want to raise it by 1W, I count to 2 and press the button to set it. It's normally close, but I don't worry about the exact settings with this MOD. It makes vaping a pleasurable experience instead of a math class.

There are 2 modes for wattage settings, Low and High. Low wattage mode ranges from 6W-20W, and High wattage mode ranges from 20W-34W. The color chart can be used for both.

 

[blueGrassTubb]

Have a nice trip, bGT. Take pictures.

My connector is perfectly straight, and I'm much more about the thing firing every time I press the button, than I am what it looks like. Those wraps are amazing things. ;-)

In the interest of full disclosure, I DID push the button through on one of them. But those who know me also know that it's not the mod's fault. Trent reinforced it for me, and the thing has taken a literal beating since. And it's never once not fired when I pushed it to do so. Immediately and quite effectively, I might add.

Just push play (as Aerosmith once said).

I shall and I shall.

The wraps are great things. I put one on my Green clone because I knew that it would get scratched to hell if I didn't. It's a clear carbon wrap and looks sharp.

I'm not sure that the "two clicks from sleep" is a flaw or purposeful in design for a safety feature. It's how it's seemingly random that bothers me more. I personally agree that the single press every time is more desirable. My DNA30 MOD (from Brimstone) works like that. But if the screen turning on for a minute for unknown reasons and a double click from sleep are the only functional differences between this clone and the real Hana, I'll buy the clone every time and twice on Sunday. If the price differential were closer I could justify the Hana, but the price differential is $180, (and that assumes one can even find a real Hana), and those two things alone aren't worth $180 to me.

 

[Katdarling]

And anyone who is interested in more chat on it, please join us.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-mods-now-something-completely-different.html

 

[cheesestain]

Replacing the dna board, usb charging board, 510 connector, and placing resettable fuses between the battery and the dna board. Probably will also need to replace the activation buttons. Ordered/waiting to order all but the buttons as I have those already...and still determining which style of fuse.

I'm thinking of doing the same. Keep us updated on the progress

 

[blueGrassTubb]

And anyone who is interested in more chat on it, please join us.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-mods-now-something-completely-different.html

Well done!

It takes a good woman to keep men in line and set us straight!

 

[jdmtai]

don't feel like going thru 600 pages anyting on the hana clone with the built in lipo battery?

 

[retird]

Yep.

I have a v2. 2 18490 or 18650 batteries in a series. The battery pack is made of AW IMR 18490s and VTC5 18650s. It works between 6.4 and 8.4v. You can view the manual here.

This is hands down the best vape I own. It's not a MOD for everyone (variable wattage 6W-34W with NO SCREEN), but once you get used to using it, it's a dream. It's meant for a vape-to-taste experience rather than people trying to stare at numbers all day.

There is visual feedback from the LED ring around the button that tells you all the info you know. All you need to do is ask.

The board is a custom board built by an unnamed party in Oz, and then hand programmed by said unnamed party and the modder, Eric Moray, and assembled all by hand.

Thx for the info.... and the link.... will check it out a bit later...

And anyone who is interested in more chat on it, please join us.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-mods-now-something-completely-different.html

THX... gal.. may "mossy" over there and read a bit.....oh... e-mailed Smooth Air...

 

[cheesestain]

@retird

Which 510 connector are you getting?

 

[DPLongo22]

I shall and I shall.

The wraps are great things. I put one on my Green clone because I knew that it would get scratched to hell if I didn't. It's a clear carbon wrap and looks sharp.

I'm not sure that the "two clicks from sleep" is a flaw or purposeful in design for a safety feature. It's how it's seemingly random that bothers me more. I personally agree that the single press every time is more desirable. My DNA30 MOD (from Brimstone) works like that. But if the screen turning on for a minute for unknown reasons and a double click from sleep are the only functional differences between this clone and the real Hana, I'll buy the clone every time and twice on Sunday. If the price differential were closer I could justify the Hana, but the price differential is $180, (and that assumes one can even find a real Hana), and those two things alone aren't worth $180 to me.

And if that's it, Blue, I'm with you. Unfortunately there's only one way to know for sure, but I do hope you'll report back to me, in September '15, so I know. I'm all for spending less, all things being equal. Therefore, I hope to hear good news when the time comes around.

By then, who knows what we'll be typing about.

 

[retird]

@retird

Which 510 connector are you getting?

SHOP - FatDaddyVapes.com - Home of the best vape tweaks and replacement hardware. Scroll down to 510 Connector for Box Mods

510 Connectors for Box Mods
Spring loaded 510 connectors with direct solder point on positive post. Spring is not part of the conduction. Comes with solder collars and hex nuts.

Optional 22mm locking washer for that flush 22mm look.

 

[Fergie]

Thanks for the link retird. Good to have just in case

 

[blueGrassTubb]

And if that's it, Blue, I'm with you. Unfortunately there's only one way to know for sure, but I do hope you'll report back to me, in September '15, so I know. I'm all for spending less, all things being equal. Therefore, I hope to hear good news when the time comes around.

By then, who knows what we'll be typing about.

I'm with you.

We won't know much about these MODs for sure until they've been in hand for a while.

 

[blueGrassTubb]

SHOP - FatDaddyVapes.com - Home of the best vape tweaks and replacement hardware. Scroll down to 510 Connector for Box Mods

510 Connectors for Box Mods
Spring loaded 510 connectors with direct solder point on positive post. Spring is not part of the conduction. Comes with solder collars and hex nuts.

Optional 22mm locking washer for that flush 22mm look.

I'd say within 3 months these will be used on the vast majority of homemade box MODs. They are VERY good. I have 3 and will be putting them in my SX350 boxes when I get around to it.

 

[BigDaddyQ]

SHOP - FatDaddyVapes.com - Home of the best vape tweaks and replacement hardware. Scroll down to 510 Connector for Box Mods

510 Connectors for Box Mods
Spring loaded 510 connectors with direct solder point on positive post. Spring is not part of the conduction. Comes with solder collars and hex nuts.

Optional 22mm locking washer for that flush 22mm look.

retird,

For those of that do not want to go to all that trouble, or even those of us that lack the know how to do so, what do you think of simply using one of the short stop or 2 cent fuses. Do you think that may reduce the likelihood of a fried board due to atomizer short from the 510 connector?

 

[retird]

retird,

For those of that do not want to go to all that trouble, or even those of us that lack the know how to do so, what do you think of simply using one of the short stop or 2 cent fuses. Do you think that may reduce the likelihood of a fried board due to atomizer short from the 510 connector?

I've not used them but know what they are.....never looked at the specs for them.... the battery tray is a tight fit for the battery in the clone....may/may not be an issue even if they have adequate specs....I think I read they are not resettable fuses and seems I read the version 2 is good to about 15 watts.... don't hold me to that as I'm going off of memory...

On the fried board question.... may depend on the trip rate... how fast it detect and how fast it trips the fuse... and the board has short circuit protection doesn't it?

The purpose for me putting a fuse in-line from the battery to the board is mainly to protect the board from a "run-away battery"....

This may help...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...fuses-choosing-appropriate-fuse-your-mod.html

 

[215Z]

Will a Sx350 fit in this box?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

[BigDaddyQ]

I've not used them but know what they are.....never looked at the specs for them.... the battery tray is a tight fit for the battery in the clone....may/may not be an issue even if they have adequate specs....I think I read they are not resettable fuses and seems I read the version 2 is good to about 15 watts.... don't hold me to that as I'm going off of memory...

On the fried board question.... may depend on the trip rate... how fast it detect and how fast it trips the fuse... and the board has short circuit protection doesn't it?

The purpose for me putting a fuse in-line from the battery to the board is mainly to protect the board from a "run-away battery"....

Yes it does have short circuit protection. I tested that with my replacement right there at the shop using a small screw driver lol. Intentionally shorting the 510 while firing produce a small spark and the chip's display reads check atomizer. And that's what bothers me. Is my replacement's protection working whereas the first clone I got failed, thus causing the fried chip? Or was it something other than an atomizer short that caused the failure and the situation just hasn't repeated itself since we aren't exactly sure what caused the fried chip in the first place. I like the clone a lot. And I agree, for an experienced vaper, they will have no trouble recognizing a problem when it occurs. But the entry price level on these arguably "advanced" high powered mods is going to attract new vapers that haven't experienced using devices like mechs and rebuildable atomizers and thus haven't looked into or researched the necessary safety information one needs to know to use an advanced mod, regulated or not. More and more I'm seeing people walk into a shop while I happen to be hanging out, and walking out the door with advanced high powered mods or mech mods or rebuildables and they've never vaped before or have limited experience vaping. I believe that this is the same line of thought you were on when you stated you couldn't recommend this mod due to the potential dangers. Potential dangers that are inherit on most any mod to be honest.

 

[BigDaddyQ]

Will a Sx350 fit in this box?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Possibly but you will have to modify the display cutout.