Augvape and Roxy Boreas RTA
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Woohoo I finally got in the mail! Man this thing is even more pretty then in the pictures. The machining is pretty much perfect. Can't wait to get a chance to put a build in there, looked like there was enough room for some bigger coils 
I'm happy.
I'm happy.
Be prepared for vaping bliss! Hurry and get it built!Woohoo I finally got in the mail! Man this thing is even more pretty then in the pictures. The machining is pretty much perfect. Can't wait to get a chance to put a build in there, looked like there was enough room for some bigger coils
Agree with the higher resistance helping with accuracy. With ultra low resistance coils any slight variation/deviation in resistance is a big deal (510 connection, coil screws, wind blowing lol, etc)
Example: If your running .05 ohm resistance and that varies by .01 that's a 20% difference. With a .5 ohm coil that same .01 would be a 2% difference
I took it a step further and switched over to SS430. With a TCR ~50% higher than 316L. With 316 being on the low end of what our mods can accurately TC, the extra 50% really helps (316L can be finicky in TC imo).
Cheers,
Steve
I had a little trouble getting the fill cap off a bit ago when refilling. It kept wanting to loosen the glass and tank.
Maybe I just tightened it too much when I filled last. The first refill went very smooth. Second one was a little messy.
Maybe I just tightened it too much when I filled last. The first refill went very smooth. Second one was a little messy.
Some of those should work, just as good!
I did a bit of research and found that in order to access the manual TCR settings on the RX200 (assuming you're on firmware 3.0) you:
-Turn the device off.
-press and hold the wattage up and power button together.
-Until the "M1" pops up, and you can select either M1-M3 (these are apparently presets for different wire TCRs)
-then click the fire button to select one of the presets of your choice.
-this now allows you to enter a value from 0001-1000, using the up/down buttons.
-for 316L, the value you want is 92 (0.00092x100,000)
Seems pretty easy, if I've read it correctly. The prerequisite is, you have to be updated to Firmware 3.0.
I don't own one of these to try it myself, so I wish I could be of more help, but I think this should help! Maybe someone that owns one can chime in if something I posted is incorrect!
The TCR thing is pretty important, Paul. It may be why you don't like TC much. We can talk about that if you're interested.
I'm about to refill mine in a few mins, I'll let you know how it goes.
Only issue I've had so far, is the o-ring around the base came snapped when I got it. I hate digging into my "extras" bag the first day I own something. Lol
I had that problem also and then the spare broke while putting it back together. I was lucky to have another oring that would fit. That’s the only problem though other than that it’s truly nirvana.
Uh-oh, I was hoping I was the only one. My spare didn't snap, but I still hope they'll offer extras for purchase.
It's pretty rotten they'd cheap out on the o-rings. Seriously, what's a damn o-ring cost?
I'll be willing to learn what I can. I guess I'll have to give it a try and see if I like it. I'll try doing that preset thing Peta talked about on one of my RX's and see if I can make a coil in the .4-.5 range with my 316. One thing I have a problem with, and that's doing the firmware updates on my RX's. I've downloaded the file for Mac, and when I plug my mod in, it just doesn't recognize it and won't load the update. So, I've been stuck using whatever firmware came with it.
Just filled the tank for the 5th time since yesterday. Dual 26x2/32 fused Claptons, 3.5 ID, .24ohms running between 90/110 watts. This tank is a beast!! I've had zero issues....everything just plain works as it's supposed to. Great job roxy/Augvape!!
Make sure your using the USB cable that came with the RX. It's Capable of charging and data transfers. Many are not- David
Yes, I have the USB that came with the RX. I'll give it another try later, maybe tomorrow and see if I can get it to work.
Upgrading the software is going to be important, no matter how you accomplish the task. On the RX, the V3.0 is the minimum for TCR functionality.
TCR itself is not that hard to understand. The characters are an acronym for Temperature Coefficient of Resistance. All metallic conductors have one. In general, the hotter a metal is, the more resistant to current it becomes. That's why superconductors are cryogenic, and electricians de-rate wires used in high temp applications. If you ever look at the tiny,tiny print on wire insulation you will see a thermal rating; usually 105ºC, but it can vary for specialized wires. What that's telling you is, if you use that wire under hotter conditions, you have to de-rate it; that is, it will not carry its rated ampacity.
While all metals have a TCR, they don't all have the same TCR, and sometimes the shape of the curve varies. Some metals vary resistance with temperature very evenly across the usable thermal span-- known to the cognoscenti as a "flat TCR curve"-- some of them rise nearly asymptotically, and others still have peaks and valleys. TC vape wire metals are chosen from among those exhibiting a flat TCR curve, among other characteristics. The numeric form of the TCR is nothing more than the coefficient of this curve, describing its shape and rate of rise.
How the mod works is also pretty simple. It measures the resistance of the coil, usually by measuring voltage drop across it and pushing the variance through the V^2/P variant of Ohm's Law on an IC chip. You lock in the resistance when the coil is cold to give the mod a measuring point then, as the coil heats, the resistance changes. Determining this variance, as applied against the TCR figure through an algorithm, tells the mod how hot the wire is. The reason mods have different TC modes-- ie. TC-Ni, TC-Ti, TC-SS-- is because those metals have a different TCR. Setting the mode does nothing more than tell the mod what TCR you want it to apply through the algorithm to determine wire temp. In addition to having different TCRs by metal type, different alloys of the same metal can and do have different TCRs. This is particularly apparent to the vaper using Stainless as so many different grades of wire are available. If your mod's TC-SS mode is set up with the TCR for 304 Stainless, it will be using the wrong number for 316, or 316L, or 317 etc. Also, even with Ni and Ti, purity can make a difference, or rather, the amount and nature of the impurities.
So, what TCR functionality does for you is it lets you fine tune your vape to fit the wire you're actually using, and your vape style. If you break out a new wire, build a new coil, and suddenly the vape gets too hot using your same old settings, back of the TCR a bit and cool it down. Or if you're chain vaping and you discover the 3rd hit is cooler than the 1st, your TCR is too low, and you need to bump it a bit to even things out. Basically, it's just another adjustment you can use to tailor the vape to suit you.
Here's a chart for a good starter position for TCR on the various TC wires:
I started with TC long ago, back with Ni in the DNA40's. TC with Ni was tricky to say the least, every thing had to be perfect from the grub screws down through the 510, or it wouldn't work right
I have since moved to Ti, way more forgiving & easier to work with
I use 24 gauge, relatively thick, makes it easier to really tighten down the wire in the atty for a good connection.
I run only spaced coils and do Not glow them red hot. I pulse them at 450 degrees & clean them with a small brush, at rewicking time.
Some tanks just work better in TC than others. The velocity deck is good cause of the wire capture method, it can be tightened good against the post with the grub screw
This is real important cause a good solid connection is vital for proper working TC.
I had real good luck early on with Ti & later when SS for TC came around I never really switched.
I find TC works the best with DNA's, on my 200's I use a CSV file from Steam Engine site,
I did get TC working fairly well with Yihi & Joytech chips But not as good as on the DNA's
Thanks Dom and others for the great lesson! I'm going to print that chart out and save it on my computer. I just never really got into it that much. Just wound a non contact Ni200 coil, set to TC, adjust temp and go! I haven't had the opportunity yet to use SS in TC. I'll try the updates first tomorrow. I might have to do it on my wife's computer as it's a Windows computer, if I can't get it to work on my Mac.
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