Ill never be that smart. I failed math and dropped out in 11th grade.
Batteries
- Thread starter Ephraim Cooper
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So basically if I had a mod that went to 220 eatts Id still only be running 103 watts with my build?
Take a read from this. There's a lot of discussion of how this device should be classified. Mech, regulated, or quasi-regulated...a lot of debate about how effective the "protections" really are.
IMFire is a member here on ECF who typically knows his stuff. He had this to say in that thread about the HexOhm3:
"This may be pertinent, it may not with these quasi-regulated mods like the Hexohm. I kinda class them as, being they pretty much sit between a mech/unregulated and a regulated. The main key I learned from a someone that custom builds similar devices, everything is reliant at the pot and Mosfet, if you hear the Mosfet emit a high pitched whine, you are over stressing the Mosfet and potentially can burn it out quicker, so lower the power on the pot down until the whine in non-existent. The Hexohms can handle a bit of over-abuse, but still have to figure in the Mosfet, if it whines you are in the danger zone if the Mosfet doesn't fry first."
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Not really. A true regulated mod doesn't care about ohms.
Edit- I should mention a true regulated mod only is limited by its voltage output.
You don't have to be smart to use an Ohm's Law calculator. You simply type in two known quantities (volts, amps, ohms, or watts) and click calculate. The calculator does the math for you.
In my opinion & from my experience using them.
The best I would describe the device you're using is quasi regulated, basic crude protections, I would not bet my safety & certainly wouldn't bet my wife's safety on the protections to be reliable.
I was easily able to defeat the so called protections to the point I fried one mosfet & melted insulation on wires inside. The other one bit the dust from an unknown reason, had I not removed the batteries I have no doubt there would've been a catastrophic failure.
Yes I knew I was pushing boundaries, problem is you just don't have the experience to be certain you are not. Whether by accident because you didn't know, or on purpose bad things can happen in the blink of an eye.
For the 10th time, they are designed and intended for use by experienced advanced users only.
An advanced user is someone that already knows basic battery safety & selection, ohms law and already knows what is and isn't safe before pressing the fire button the very first time.
If what you want is to be able to crank a power device up to near full power safely reliably without worry you need a decent fully regulated power device with actual fully functional reliable protections/ safety features.
Or
Keep reading & study the tons of great links & sound advice you've been given in your several threads on the same basic topic until it all makes sense and you become confident in your own abilities.
The best I would describe the device you're using is quasi regulated, basic crude protections, I would not bet my safety & certainly wouldn't bet my wife's safety on the protections to be reliable.
I was easily able to defeat the so called protections to the point I fried one mosfet & melted insulation on wires inside. The other one bit the dust from an unknown reason, had I not removed the batteries I have no doubt there would've been a catastrophic failure.
Yes I knew I was pushing boundaries, problem is you just don't have the experience to be certain you are not. Whether by accident because you didn't know, or on purpose bad things can happen in the blink of an eye.
For the 10th time, they are designed and intended for use by experienced advanced users only.
An advanced user is someone that already knows basic battery safety & selection, ohms law and already knows what is and isn't safe before pressing the fire button the very first time.
If what you want is to be able to crank a power device up to near full power safely reliably without worry you need a decent fully regulated power device with actual fully functional reliable protections/ safety features.
Or
Keep reading & study the tons of great links & sound advice you've been given in your several threads on the same basic topic until it all makes sense and you become confident in your own abilities.
Why do people build such low ohm builds like .1 and .15. I even heard od of .08. What is the point in that?
Because some folks like to, or like the way it vapes, or enjoy pushing boundaries or flat out have no idea what they are doing and it sounds cool to say I vape at 200w on .08.
Everything in vaping is a matter of individual personal preferences.
Everything in vaping is a matter of individual personal preferences.
My opinion of super low ohm builds (just an opinion and not true to everyone) is that some build that low to compensate for not knowing how to build a functional higher ohm build. Some do it for the "wow, look at me" factor, and some simply are told that is what to do to get a good vape. There are always others that know what they are doing and can safely build that low and just enjoy the vape they get from it.
You've been using it for what 6 months now?
You haven't heard any noises coming from the box, you've said your old batteries haven't got hot.
You've figured out & found a wire type & build you really enjoy.
You are intelligent enough to figure all that out and ask questions & take sound advice
The resistance you're using is not unreasonable or unsafe.
You have good cells on the way.
Enjoy your vape while you read, research / gain knowledge & experience.
Just don't try pushing boundaries (crank it up to 11) until you gain confidence in you own abilities.
Just me, I wouldn't set the potentiometer to full power, but that's your choice.
One of the biggest myths in vaping is high power and or very low resistance equals a better vape.
It is a balancing act, sure some folks always resort to the get a bigger hammer approach.
You haven't heard any noises coming from the box, you've said your old batteries haven't got hot.
You've figured out & found a wire type & build you really enjoy.
You are intelligent enough to figure all that out and ask questions & take sound advice
The resistance you're using is not unreasonable or unsafe.
You have good cells on the way.
Enjoy your vape while you read, research / gain knowledge & experience.
Just don't try pushing boundaries (crank it up to 11) until you gain confidence in you own abilities.
Just me, I wouldn't set the potentiometer to full power, but that's your choice.
One of the biggest myths in vaping is high power and or very low resistance equals a better vape.
It is a balancing act, sure some folks always resort to the get a bigger hammer approach.
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Yeah all these youtube videos these guys r using .1 ohm coils. I dont see how their box fires.
They put then on an ohm reader. Ive seen .1, .12 and it still fires. The Hex Ohm wont fire under .15 and thats pushing it.
Im stupid and I know the higher the ohms the longer ur battery lasts. I wont build undera .3. The premaid coils I use ohm out at .31. I put an extra wrap and it brings it to.35.
Because you have a decent quality dual coil Nichrome 80 fused claptons build that has been verified to be stable at .35 ohms in your Drop RDA, I think it is safe to conclude this coil build isn't going to just magically change resistance to somewhere below .3 ohms, as long as you don't molest your coils. I mean, even if you aren't the sharpest tool in the drawer like you said, I promise you that anyone who makes the claim you need to be an advanced user to be capable to verify the integrity of the coil build that you are using right now, is not exactly the sharpest tool in the drawer, either.
The reason why I recommended the Samsung 20S batteries to you in your other thread is because right now they're the hardest hitting 18650 batteries available to vapers, and they are true 30A batteries so, because the HexOhm 3.0 uses dual 18650 batteries in series as well as is limited to 180 watts and is limited to 6V, it can never draw more than 30A from each battery, which means that, with true 30A batteries in this mod, you won't have to worry about ohms excepting only for the fact the manufacturer of this mod doesn't recommend going below .2 ohms on it. Like I already explained in your other thread, with the potentiometer set to 100%, this mod refuses to fire the coils if the coil build is under .2 ohms. With the potentiometer set to above about 50%, this mod refuses to fire the coils if the coil build is at .1 ohm. If the coil build is under .1 ohm, this mod refuses to fire the coils. There's simply no serious risk that this mod can draw more than 30A from each battery. That's because this dual 18650 battery mod has a maximum power output of 180 watts and a maximum output voltage of 6V. People are saying they can do the math, but I can see they aren't doing the math.
I use the layercake rda. Do u think Ill notice a slight difference using the Samsung batteries? Will it hit faster?
On an unregulated dual 18650 battery mod there's usually not much point in doing that, and in fact might even be very unsafe. My Surric X-Vault is rated for coil builds at or above .15 ohms, and the recommended resistance for coil builds with this mod is .2 ohms. But on a true mech mod I vape at .11 ohms on a daily basis. Being a true advanced user who does the math and who reads up on battery safety and battery performance, choosing the right amount of power for how I prefer to vape is why.
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