So just to make sure I understand...
The new Ego-T batteries, are the same as the Riva SE batteries now?
And there are also "newer" Ego 900 mah batteries and USB batteries that are this way now too?
If I have that right, it would be a miracle.
Battery Voltages -- Surprise!
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The new Ego-T batteries, are the same as the Riva SE batteries now?
And there are also "newer" Ego 900 mah batteries and USB batteries that are this way now too?
If I have that right, it would be a miracle.
Thanks to Scott. I had gotten some extra money and got the Riva SE from Liberty Flights...and fell in love when it got here...so I sold all my other eGo/Riva batteries and some other stuff and got another Riva SE kit. The steel is so damn sexy and that's how I got both kits. I now think I am set with these two kits and myP16 and am a very happy camper in deed 
Thanks so much for testing, finding and sharing this info with all of us Scott
Thanks so much for testing, finding and sharing this info with all of us Scott 
No, you didn't get it right.. sorry. The eGo 900, USB and "T" batteries are not 3.7V devices. They use PWM to reduce the effective voltage.... but it's a different PWM algorithm than the older eGo batteries used.
Thanks to Scott. I had gotten some extra money and got the Riva SE from Liberty Flights...and fell in love when it got here...so I sold all my other eGo/Riva batteries and some other stuff and got another Riva SE kit. The steel is so damn sexy and that's how I got both kits. I now think I am set with these two kits and myP16 and am a very happy camper in deed
No problem Bella! You know that I "love you long time...".
Just read the whole thread and it has definitely been interesting. I never would have guessed that they used PWM considering the discharge curves for lithium ion batteries. Out of curiosity do you happen know what they are using as the cut off voltage?
hi guys, though I should say g'day over this way and chuck in me 2c worth.
I have not autopsied an eGo yet, something I have been meaning to do .. I see mention of replacing the mosfet, wondering what you use as a replacement. I did a quick search of the forums for what I thought might be possible fets but didn't get any results.
Is it a P or N channel ?
if its an N channel and since its high side switching then it is going to need the square wave and at least one cap to get the gate drive u above the battery voltage or have a little bias generator cct in there as well, unlikely. I wouldn't think that would be as cost effective as using a P channel though there may be some reason.
Maybe running at that 85% max duty puts the little SOT23 mosfet into the SOA with a LR atty.
I think they may have a bandgap reference in the ecig itself unless they use a micro with one built in .. pic10 and 12 series spring to mind.
On the chargers .. I pulled one apart once to have a quick look, totally analogue with a quad op amp or comparator and what I suspect is a TL431 band gap reference. There is no micro in the charger at all.
I came to the conclusion that the flickering was the charging cct hysteresis. As the battery gets near full it trips the charged detection, which turns off and as soon as the battery sags enough to fall below the lower trip point the charging kicks back in. I would assume if that was the case the flicker would change rate towards the end of charging.
I always thought the eGo over current worked quite well, though never tried to kill one .. I have a 1kW variable resistor that I threw on the eGo once to look at the waveform .. set it to 2 ohms and hit the button and the switch just flashed .. I had to increase the resistor in the end to 75Ω before the eGo would drive it .. capacitive, inductive .. I dunno, but it sure cuts off quick . ended up ripping a carto to bits for a load. 2Ω no problem.
I have not autopsied an eGo yet, something I have been meaning to do .. I see mention of replacing the mosfet, wondering what you use as a replacement. I did a quick search of the forums for what I thought might be possible fets but didn't get any results.
Is it a P or N channel ?
if its an N channel and since its high side switching then it is going to need the square wave and at least one cap to get the gate drive u above the battery voltage or have a little bias generator cct in there as well, unlikely. I wouldn't think that would be as cost effective as using a P channel though there may be some reason.
Maybe running at that 85% max duty puts the little SOT23 mosfet into the SOA with a LR atty.
I think they may have a bandgap reference in the ecig itself unless they use a micro with one built in .. pic10 and 12 series spring to mind.
On the chargers .. I pulled one apart once to have a quick look, totally analogue with a quad op amp or comparator and what I suspect is a TL431 band gap reference. There is no micro in the charger at all.
I came to the conclusion that the flickering was the charging cct hysteresis. As the battery gets near full it trips the charged detection, which turns off and as soon as the battery sags enough to fall below the lower trip point the charging kicks back in. I would assume if that was the case the flicker would change rate towards the end of charging.
I always thought the eGo over current worked quite well, though never tried to kill one .. I have a 1kW variable resistor that I threw on the eGo once to look at the waveform .. set it to 2 ohms and hit the button and the switch just flashed .. I had to increase the resistor in the end to 75Ω before the eGo would drive it .. capacitive, inductive .. I dunno, but it sure cuts off quick
. ended up ripping a carto to bits for a load. 2Ω no problem.hi guys, though I should say g'day over this way and chuck in me 2c worth.
I have not autopsied an eGo yet, something I have been meaning to do .. I see mention of replacing the mosfet, wondering what you use as a replacement. I did a quick search of the forums for what I thought might be possible fets but didn't get any results.
Is it a P or N channel ?
if its an N channel and since its high side switching then it is going to need the square wave and at least one cap to get the gate drive u above the battery voltage or have a little bias generator cct in there as well, unlikely. I wouldn't think that would be as cost effective as using a P channel though there may be some reason.
Maybe running at that 85% max duty puts the little SOT23 mosfet into the SOA with a LR atty.
I think they may have a bandgap reference in the ecig itself unless they use a micro with one built in .. pic10 and 12 series spring to mind.
On the chargers .. I pulled one apart once to have a quick look, totally analogue with a quad op amp or comparator and what I suspect is a TL431 band gap reference. There is no micro in the charger at all.
I came to the conclusion that the flickering was the charging cct hysteresis. As the battery gets near full it trips the charged detection, which turns off and as soon as the battery sags enough to fall below the lower trip point the charging kicks back in. I would assume if that was the case the flicker would change rate towards the end of charging.
I always thought the eGo over current worked quite well, though never tried to kill one .. I have a 1kW variable resistor that I threw on the eGo once to look at the waveform .. set it to 2 ohms and hit the button and the switch just flashed .. I had to increase the resistor in the end to 75Ω before the eGo would drive it .. capacitive, inductive .. I dunno, but it sure cuts off quick
I don't know what you just said, but I couldn't agree more.
Nice thread....anyone with a "Fluke" has my respect.
Of course, I've used one for years and am quite partial. Guess I'm one of those guys who just like sticking probes into electrical "anythings". It's paid pretty decent benefits too.
It's thread like this one that help all of us learn a little more about the mysteries of Ohm's law.
Of course, I've used one for years and am quite partial. Guess I'm one of those guys who just like sticking probes into electrical "anythings". It's paid pretty decent benefits too.
It's thread like this one that help all of us learn a little more about the mysteries of Ohm's law.
The "drive" MOSFET is a P-channel. I've been using the Vishay SI2333DS as a replacement and it works quite well. Perhaps a little lower Rdson than the OEM unit.
Nice .. not going to be blowing one of those up so easily
gotta love enhancement mode MOSFETs ..
ok, so its P channel .. was just something I wondered about for a while. Looking at Rds specs, it appears I should change my 1970s thinking .. the P channels are as good if not better than the N channels nowadays. Advantage of a charge coupled device instead of semi relying on holes to carry a current.
thanks for going to the effort of posting up pics .. before I brought my work CRO home I stuck up some pics over at eGo waveforms
we think alike
gotta love enhancement mode MOSFETs ..
ok, so its P channel .. was just something I wondered about for a while. Looking at Rds specs, it appears I should change my 1970s thinking .. the P channels are as good if not better than the N channels nowadays. Advantage of a charge coupled device instead of semi relying on holes to carry a current.
thanks for going to the effort of posting up pics .. before I brought my work CRO home I stuck up some pics over at eGo waveforms
we think alike
Nice thread....anyone with a "Fluke" has my respect.
Of course, I've used one for years and am quite partial. Guess I'm one of those guys who just like sticking probes into electrical "anythings". It's paid pretty decent benefits too.
It's thread like this one that help all of us learn a little more about the mysteries of Ohm's law.
I used a Fluke 87 for years in my job before retiring. It used to be automatic that a retiring employee got to keep his toolbag when he retired. My manager told me that I had to include a company meter in the bag when I turned it in. I knew that I had an old Simpson digital around the house that they let me keep when I moved up to the Fluke. I just couldn't find it so I had to turn in the Fluke 87 on retirement day.
11 months later, I opened a drawer upstairs and there wasw the Simpson! Day late and dollar short came to mind. At least I still have the Simpson now.
I looked at Fluke 115s on Amazon and they are selling for about $120. Anyone have experience with the 115? Is it as good as the 87?
I personally think that the 115 is a decent "around the house" meter and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to most people. It's not going to give you the accuracy of the 87 (I believe the 115 is good for 5% on the Ω scale), and the 87 has a couple of more features (IIRC), but I'd take the 115 over most of the non-Fluke offerings in the same relative price range.
I'm due for a new fluke treat, been using my trusty old 77 since 1986, had a few fuses go, a run in with a microwave was particularly nasty with my home made x10 probe.
On day to day TV repairs for 20 years my fluke 12 was a workhorse, replaced the buttons, replaced the display. Still works great.
I would have worn out 20 cheap meters in the time I have owned these 2. They pay for themselves in the long run.
On day to day TV repairs for 20 years my fluke 12 was a workhorse, replaced the buttons, replaced the display. Still works great.
I would have worn out 20 cheap meters in the time I have owned these 2. They pay for themselves in the long run.
Speaking of test equipment, I've never had a really good set of leads, even when I had a Beckman DMM. Anyone know whether the Silvertronic leads are decent?
Agree- They are great around the house and for most electronics work, but don't expect to percicely measure attys with them- gotta be careful with accuracy ratings- you also have to look at the display percision.
I treated myself to a 289 during the holidays- my old DMM just turned 30 years old... did alot of spec reading last fall....
The actual spec on most of fluke's General Purpose DMMs- (including the 115) is 0.9%+1 ... problem is the 115 (and it's family) is a 4 digit meter and the lowest range is 200 Ohms so that +1 turns out to be +/- .1 ohms....
Also, the 87V Spec isn't much better than the 115 when it comes to resistance when measuring attys (although it offers alot more in other areas)
From Fluke:
Fluke 83 V: ±(0.4%+1)
Fluke 87 V: ±(0.2%+1)
Maximum Resolution: 0.1Ω
Again, it's not the % of the reading that creates a problem, it's the resolution that bites you if you are looking for accuracy....
Only reason I mention it is every once and a while I see someone posting that their Fluke meter just gave them a reading suggesting the atty is off by 0.1Ω --- always makes me laugh ...
AFAIK, the only current Fluke DMMs that measure out to 0.1Ω accurately are:
187/287 - 500.00Ω range (5 digit) with .05% accuracy
189/289 - 10.000 and 50.000 range (5 digit) with 0.15% +20 accuracy, or 500.00Ω range (5 digit) with .05% accuracy
AH ha! I'm finally utilizing the search feature with better results!
I was thinking of buying a cheapy mod OR buying LR attys. I don't want TOO much heat/blast, but a little more might be GREAT! So, with this in mind, do you guys think a 3.7 mod would do it or a LR atty (2.0 ohm or so)?
I was thinking of buying a cheapy mod OR buying LR attys. I don't want TOO much heat/blast, but a little more might be GREAT! So, with this in mind, do you guys think a 3.7 mod would do it or a LR atty (2.0 ohm or so)?
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