Battery warnings :)

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Rocketman

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At least the NiMh probably won't be the source of any shrapnel :)

EDIT:
At first thought the metal tin didn't seem like a good idea to me, but the shrapnel comment was in jest.
This has about the largest "blow port" of any mod and no chance of building up pressure.
Sorry, comment withdrawn.
Sure is a lot of real estate on the inside to insulate again shorts.
I'm not one to stack batteries, like or unlike. Your measurements sound convincing.
Sort of strange for someone interested in stack battery mods to know how to use a meter.

You would think that would be a prerequisite.
 
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xpetechp

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I posted the Altoid tin diy instructions and I'm really interested in knowing if the rest of you feel it is safe. The mod can be changed very easily to another battery configuration.

I've been using the mod for several months. The battery pack operates according to the characteristics of the 14500. For example, most of my initial tests show the expended pack voltages to be around 2.75v for the 14500 and 1.1v for the NiMh. My tests have been conducted with a fully charged pack used until the pack cuts out. Using the batteries in series takes advantage of the protective circuit in the 14500.

I guess my design assumes that the NiMh won't explode because the battery isn't being cycled much based on the "discharged" voltage testing. When I recharge the NiMh after 8 hours use (normal voltage readings: 2.8 to 3V on the 14500 and 1.1 - 1.2v on the NiMh), it takes less than 10 minutes to charge on a regular charger. I've been doing 8 hour testing lately (actually "work-day" testing - full pack use from home to work and back), because my batteries are older now.

Is my reasoning incorrect?

Please resond.:confused:
 

WillyB

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Is my reasoning incorrect?
I'm not gonna comment on the safety, but I do like how you have gone about it. Rather than just slap it together and rave about clouds of vapor you have given it some thought (battery placement for one). You seem to have a grasp on the issues involved and have used meter tests at various points to see if they apply.
 

xpetechp

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I'm not gonna comment on the safety, but I do like...

Thanks for your comment Willy - I do try to think things through. Here's a bit of my background thoughts on the mod. I would really appreciate yours, or any knowledgeable criticism on this build:

Battery 1 = 14500 battery, 3.6V or 4.2V, 900 mAh
Battery 2 = NiMh battery, 1.2V, 2500mAh
Circuit voltage ranges from 2.95V to 5.4V
I have not measured power output of the circuit

Circuit = batt 1 to protection circuit (contained in the battery) to switch to cartomizer to batt 2 cathode and back to batt 1

In a series connection, there is no problem using batteries with differing voltage - the voltage here is additive and it is how I get to the "sweet" 5.4V range.

HOWEVER, there could be an issue with the amp hours discharged because the rating is different on both batteries. That is the rub - using differing amp-hour ratings can cause over discharge of the lower rated battery. BUT, in this case, the lower rated battery is PROTECTED. Unless I don't remember my Navy training (it was over 20 years ago), I think there is no problem with this battery configuration if you follow the instructions from my post on how to use the battery pack.

Think of it this way, I could use unprotected batteries in this circuit if I added an external protection circuit in series with the battery pack. According to how a series circuit work, I've added the protection circuit. According to how the batteries work, the protection circuit will work on the lowest rated battery (the 14500) and that is where I want the protection to be. This explains why I don't see so much discharge on the NiMh battery. Also, according to Warning - rechargeable batteries for mods posting from Rolygate, 1.2v NiMh batteries don't need to be protected. This is listed under Note 1 of the Exceptions.

Please double check my thoughts - I really don't want to be wrong and I welcome your comments. It has been quite a while since I worked as an electrician. I probably should have been more clear in my mod post about the mAh ratings - I just assumed they were standard ratings.:blush:
 

WillyB

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It is never a good idea to mix batteries of differing chemistries, capacity, or state of charge. This is never good.
How so? Why? Seems it would make sense to respond to what xpetechp has posted, point out the errors of his findings or method rather than just toss off some general qualitative comment. Some actual thought went into his post. He has measured, collected data and evaluated the results.
 

jimho

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Got a bit carried away here but wanted to share some thoughts- started 2 days ago and it kind of grew in spurts... please don’t take any of this as challenging anyone, just presenting some alternative perspective in some places….


Regarding what you have already in the initial post I have a couple of quick notes:
-where you describe the battery sizes, you need to mention that the size numbers, i.e. 18650, is not always the actual size of the package and many batteries are in fact larger- typically protected batteries- the protected AW 18650's are no exception with the 2900 coming in at 68mm.

- where you discuss safe batteries AND where you discuss IMR chemistry you should indicate that IMRs are also known as High Drain.



I have some comments related to the rest of the discussion above:
I think what you are trying to do is admirable but I'm worried that you are going to cause an unnecessary mad rush for AW batteries and cause a lot of unnecessary grief for anyone that makes a mod that doesn't fit AW's. I can already see the post that says I’m not buying that mod because it doesn’t take Tier 1 batteries…. or I only buy AW’s because that’s Tier 1. I don’t think you should officially get into ranking, tiers or anything like that just state that the manufacturers specifications suggest that a given battery should be adequate, marginal, or inadequate for a given load.

FWIW many of the AW's, Ultrafires, some of the TF’s and other brands we don't even discuss here on ECF are based on the same subset of internal batteries made by Panasonic and Samsung. Part of what makes AWs the battery dejour is the quality control, wrapping and consistency of their finished product. There are arguments (including price) that may make other batteries a better choice in a given scenario .... Sure you could put most of the protected and IMR AW's in 16xxx, 17xxx and 18xxx in tier 1 but that doesn't mean others shouldn't be there as well ... perhaps I didn’t see it, but you should be clear that the packaged battery that we buy is a wrapper around a cell with a pcb added, and the AW’s simply have the best reputation for making the best package and in the case of protected batteries, the best finishing on the pcb. My point again is that you shouldn’t dictate a brand of batteries - simply acknowledge there’s a price/performance/quality trade off and let the community comment on their experience and opinion … why not set up a sub forum for each battery type- have a sticky that provides manufacturer ratings etc and let the cognoscenti go at it?

Another thought -
We will have some sophisticated mods coming soon that will be running buck-boost regulators and other VV Mods designed to run off of either 7.4V stacked or 3.7V …. This changes the relationship between the batteries current drain and the current going to the atty so that while the power at 3.7V (off the battery) has to be at least equal to the power at the atty, the current at the atty will different than the current drain on the battery . More important is that people understand that these devices when configured properly can offer better protection from overloading the battery than the PCB found in any of the batteries- not only offering a better/more consistent experience but a safer one too. I’ve seen way too many posts where people (and mod makers) are damning the electronics because they fear it will fail without understanding anything about them… kind of like ABS or air bags were viewed when they first came out. At some point we’ll have mods with a switch to bypass the voltage regulator for experienced users ;-)

Rather than making lists of batteries for the sake of having one, I would also suggest a different approach and better use of time, would be to have an ECF approved mod list – a seal of approval or a certification if you will:
- publish guidelines that the mod manufacturer/vendor must recommend a battery or batteries to be used with a given mod in order for it to receive the ECF stamp of approval. Then before issuing the “approval” (whatever you want to call it) make sure that the recommended batteries have published mAh and C ratings that will meet foreseeable demands – .... you already have most of the guidelines and it would be easier to simply have a process for validating that mods correspond to it- natural fall out will be a list of batteries and their full specifications - which you can put on a sticky along with the current requirements for attys at 3.2v, 3.7V 5V, 6V, and 7.4V… (I have a spreadsheet and calculator for the attys I use which I already shared out with some folks a few months back – took 5 minutes to make)

Leave tracking and quality rating batteries to the guys on candlepower- they already do a pretty good job at it and their needs aren’t necessarily that different – in fact many are more demanding with constant loads .... just point people there….

In the same vein, you could also apply some pressure to the approved suppliers to publish C ratings AND max current ratings for all batteries they sell - if a battery option provided by the reseller/supplier is not suitable for use with an LR atty, then the "approved supplier" should say so- otherwise what's the point of approving suppliers? if that's too draconian, make a new category for "Gold Suppliers" and make it a requirement for them to post the details…

Here’s a problem you could easily solve if you went that route:
I have some batteries in my stash that I bought thinking I would be stacking (in a protected/regulated mod) based on the modder’s recommendation. The mod hasn’t happened… I may want to use batteries for a different purpose without stacking. The supplier I purchased them from (a popular and reputable supplier) sells them for single use along with a specific mod that he also sells. I can't get a straight answer from the reseller or the distributor on the C rating – The supplier told me 1.5A (I asked again for C – never got an answer) – a distributor (from China) told me the max current is 2.5A…. you’d think C would be 1.5 but based on the mAh rating it doesn’t work out and won’t drive an LR’s current – by alot ….yet the supplier is recommending it in one of his mods – I hope the distributor is correct.

And then there’s Max Discharge rates
This number gets tossed around like it’s an absolute number cast in stone that should never under any circumstances be exceeded. It’s not- it’s a number supplied by the manufacturer for continuous discharge of a new battery at where it will not generate heat. Chain vaping might be considered frequent but it is not continuous discharge – running a flashlight is. There’s a direct relationship between max discharge rate and internal battery resistance. The internal resistance increases with usage over time - particularly when the battery is over drained or over charged. Protected batteries do offer protection from excessive over discharge but the word excessive comes into play- Point is over time, if you never over drain your battery the internal resistance still goes up with each use (assuming you use it till it starts to drop off) and it lowers the C rating. So that new battery that is safe at 2.5 amps may exceed the effective C rating after the battery has been cycled a few times. My point here being again that understanding some of the mechanics of what is going on is important. Exceeding the C rating on paper by a few hundred mA in 5 second bursts isn’t nearly as bad a sin as repeatedly running the battery down till it shuts off- and even then, the risk is more along the lines of shortening the battery's life as opposed blowing up the battery. If you really want to avoid the discussion you might want to consider staying well within the battery’s current rating - but that would simply result in longer battery life not necessarily longer run time or safer operation…..

On safe batteries and runaways:
LiFePo4's and IMR's are safer because they don't explode- you covered that…. but they can get quite hot and can runaway just like regular LIons - I've had it happen with a shorted atty. You should note that if a user ever feels the battery or mod becoming hot to the touch they should cease using the device immediately. They should disconnect or if possible remove the batteries and get them on a slab of stone away from anything that can burn. Then carefully check the PV and atty for shorts and either test (with an appropriate tester) or toss the batteries after they have cooled down. I’d love to see more discussion related to paying attention to the device and knowing how and when to take quick decisive action when something isn’t right.


Stacking-
Stacking itself is not dangerous - that needs to be clarified and you need to stop saying it is dangerous – its not when done properly… I've seen arguments to rotate batteries and arguments to always use the same top battery (both with merit - rotating makes more sense to me) to make them last longer but that’s not the point. The same safety rules about staying in range of the battery’s nominal ratings apply (add they should be identical twins) ….Batteries with low current/drain ratings may be inappropriate for LR vaping but quite appropriate stacked for HV vaping with higher resistance attys. RCR123a LiFePo4’s with a 4.2 atty (even 3.5 ) are a great example-

Attys-
At this point nobody should trust attys for what they are rated at - they are the weak link – even the $10 atties named after a certain member here come within a range. People using high power batteries should at least own an ohm meter and test every atty they use before each use – especially if you are pushing the edge of the batteries capability- that said most of the meters they are buying aren’t accurate to 0.1 Ohms (although they display it) – so no way of knowing if that 1.7 atty is really a 1.5 and vice versa. So if you tell someone a 1.7 atty is safe and a 1.5 atty isn’t, it’s great on paper but a problem in the real world….what makes you think that they’ll know what they are holding? Add that 1 foot of 24 gage copper wire in the mod (if used) adds .1 ohm.

Overall- I think this is good information to consolidate, but at some point to fully explain you basically have to copy battery university and a few other sites, it has some negative side effects, and it will likely create problems down the road when it needs to be updated.

You can't protect people from themselves- I think we're better off with guidelines, standards, Seal of approval/certifications and education than simply classifying batteries. If people don’t want to take the time to understand how to apply ohms law to a batteries current rating they have no business buying batteries not recommended by the supplier – …. and bargain batteries bought on ebay can blow up in your face- literally-
 
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jimho

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Thanks for your comment Willy - I do try to think things through. Here's a bit of my background thoughts on the mod. I would really appreciate yours, or any knowledgeable criticism on this build:

Battery 1 = 14500 battery, 3.6V or 4.2V, 900 mAh
Battery 2 = NiMh battery, 1.2V, 2500mAh
Circuit voltage ranges from 2.95V to 5.4V
I have not measured power output of the circuit

Circuit = batt 1 to protection circuit (contained in the battery) to switch to cartomizer to batt 2 cathode and back to batt 1

In a series connection, there is no problem using batteries with differing voltage - the voltage here is additive and it is how I get to the "sweet" 5.4V range.

HOWEVER, there could be an issue with the amp hours discharged because the rating is different on both batteries. That is the rub - using differing amp-hour ratings can cause over discharge of the lower rated battery. BUT, in this case, the lower rated battery is PROTECTED. Unless I don't remember my Navy training (it was over 20 years ago), I think there is no problem with this battery configuration if you follow the instructions from my post on how to use the battery pack.

Think of it this way, I could use unprotected batteries in this circuit if I added an external protection circuit in series with the battery pack. According to how a series circuit work, I've added the protection circuit. According to how the batteries work, the protection circuit will work on the lowest rated battery (the 14500) and that is where I want the protection to be. This explains why I don't see so much discharge on the NiMh battery. Also, according to Warning - rechargeable batteries for mods posting from Rolygate, 1.2v NiMh batteries don't need to be protected. This is listed under Note 1 of the Exceptions.

Please double check my thoughts - I really don't want to be wrong and I welcome your comments. It has been quite a while since I worked as an electrician. I probably should have been more clear in my mod post about the mAh ratings - I just assumed they were standard ratings.:blush:

I think you are definitely departing from conventional safety standards. Are you doing this just to get to 5.2V?

I don't know what they teach in the navy (wasn't there) but I'm pretty sure they don't tell you it's OK to mix batterys without isolating them ....There's more to this than what happens when the upper or lower battery runs low- in fact I guarantee you the top will run out first regardless of which battery has a higher capacity. You are mixing batteries with different chemistry, different discharge ratings and different internal resistances. Protected or not, if you do a search on mixing battery types, you can find some of the discussion around this.... generally it's not recommended.... period....

From what you describe in your circuit, you are relying on an overload/overcharge protection switch known to be easily damaged inside of your protected battery to work- what if it doesn't? What if the battery was dropped and the circuit failed closed before you ever got your hands on it? you don't want to go there.... That circuit was never designed to be an on/off switch, it's a fail safe to protect from catastrophic failure due to extreme conditions- and when it fires (if it works), it needs to be reset by fully charging the battery- it's not a voltage regulator for your circuit.

What about the current running through that NiMh? can it push close to 3Amps without heating up? Again, not knowing anything about the internal resistance and current ratings (and if I did I'd say the same thing anyway), you are asking for trouble...

Now here's an interesting twist- when you run batteries in series (same batteries, same state), the battery closest to the load always drains first- it's one of the great mysteries that nobody seems to be able to answer (at least where I've looked) - althought one could intuitively hypothesize why .... but it happens as sure as gravity - if I stack two LiFePo4's in my V3, and I check the batteries when the voltage falls off, I'll always find the top battery at 2.4V and the bottom at 3V (unloaded). Allways.

which brings us to another scary thought- what happens when you've drained that NiMh and there is still plenty of juice left in your LIon?- you are effectively reverse charging the top battery when you close the circuit- at some point when the top battery drops off, it will be looking at +3.x V on its tail and a connection to gnd on its anode - ....

As long as your batteries are the same, in the same state of discharge, used in pairs (sets), same internal resistance etc, you are safe - break the rules and one battery will try to charge the other - backwards... or one will heat up because it's got a higher internal resistance, or etc


If you really want to do this against conventional wisdom, you need to fully isolate the batteries so you are not "mixing" them ... better yet, you'd want to regulate each battery separately and stack the regulated output (but then you won't be charging the top battery)...

What would be the point? A much better, safer and easier way to go about this would be to use a buck-boost regulator or stack two equal 3.7's and use a linear regulator.... Even simpler, just use 2 RCR123a's (LiFePo4) and a 3.5 ohm atty.... The magic is in the watts not the volts.

Sorry if it's not what you wanted to hear, but duby is 100% right.
 

rolygate

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@Jimho

Thanks for the input. Some good points raised so I want to address each one.

.....only buy AW’s because that’s Tier 1. I don’t think you should officially get into ranking, tiers or anything like that just state that the manufacturers specifications suggest that a given battery should be adequate, marginal, or inadequate for a given load.

Jim, what we are trying to do here is keep people safe who don't know anything about these issues. A DMM is no use to them as they might set it to the resistance scale then check a battery, or short their eGo batt centre post to outer thread while checking it, and they don't know what the numbers mean anyway. We're trying to set some guidelines for the 98% of buyers who don't know that a battery is not as safe as any other thing they buy.

We know that the answer is to have plenty of warnings. We know that we need to tell them what batteries to buy. As some batteries are safer than others we should probably put them into at least two groups, so people can choose: top dollar = most safe, mid range = OK, el cheapo = risky. That's the info people want and what we should give them.

This being the case, we have to name the groups something so I chose 'tiers' as being a reasonably innocent name, it does not imply safety or recommendation or whatever. The fact is, AW IMR's are safer and should be in the top group and people deserve to know that - true enough?

There is, however, a debate between two camps here: is the top group going to be AW IMR-only, or all the top-quality cells that have a sufficient drain rate. These would probably include AW Li-ion's, Pila Li-ion's, and Li-FePo4's.

I'm in camp 1, AW's only, because I believe people deserve the best advice and if there is a cell that is clearly better in every way, as the AW IMR is, then people have the right to be told. Yes, other cells will do the job but that is why there are several tiers. After all we have reports of all types of cells failing except AW IMRs. Protected Li-ion's have failed (reported by Buzzkill), Li-FePo4's can blow (apparently there is a report on ECF somewhere of them failing), and unprotected Li-ions have a lot of fail reports. The *only* cells clean and clear are AW Li-Mn's. When you look at the quality + the chemistry + the drain rate, then you can see why.

Also I feel that LiFePo4's should not be in tier 1 because they need a different charger, and this automatically means people will overcharge them and they might then fail. Perhaps an AW Li-FePo4 might not fail - but what about another manufacturer? And as stated this appears to have happened already. Many won't even realise they are 3 volt cells, not 3.6v like all the rest.

This is all about user error in any case, and the one thing we know for sure is that users will make mistakes. We all do. People will cook their LiFePo4's, it's inevitable.


Rather than making lists of batteries for the sake of having one, I would also suggest a different approach and better use of time, would be to have an ECF approved mod list – a seal of approval or a certification.........

Jim, we thought long and hard about that but in the end decided it isn't practical. As you say there are advantages, but the practicalities mean it wouldn't play. There are so many negatives that it can't work. Here are some:

- ECF doesn't intend to do any 'banning', just education of buyers. If you have some mods that are approved, then some would not be, thus they are to a certain extent 'banned'.
- Who decides what mods pass or fail? I'm not going to do that - and nobody else is volunteering :)

- If ECF approve a mod, then when it fails, we share the liability.

- My personal preference, if I were buying a mod for a family member who knows nothing about electricity or batteries, would be one they couldn't make a mistake with and harm themselves. So it would take AW IMR's (and I would insist they got AW's and a Pila charger), and it would have a bunch of safety features such as gas vents, a kill switch for transport, a sacrificial end cap that acts as a blow-out plug in the event of a battery de-gassing event and therefore blows off before the top cap, a sealed on/off switch, and built-in electronics to trip out if there is a dead short. Maybe you can suggest a mod to me that has those features? If there are any, that is. Those are the only mods I would personally recommend to anyone since that way I know my A is covered, and more importantly I'm not recommending a potential bomb to someone.

Just one very simple safety feature: mods need a kill switch, a second cut-out switch, but few seem to acknowledge this. There are any number of reports of atties locked on and the mod in runaway. Just because in theory this isn't possible as the on/off switch is unlikely to fail to a closed condition doesn't seem to stop it happening. Why it happens is not ultimately important. A simple, low-cost addition that would improve safety. How many have it?

I'm not sure if there is even a mod out there that I'd recommend to a family member. If I can't recommend one to my family then I'm not going to recommend one to someone else. To me they are a calculated risk, if you know the issues and know electrics then you should be safe - but that does not apply to Joe Average. He is a walking timebomb and has to be protected from himself. Do mods do a good job of that right now? No they don't, in my opinion. Mods, right now, are for people who know all the issues, not the average buyer - but that doesn't stop Mr Average from getting hold of them.

All we can do is warn and advise. If it is impossible for a buyer to get one through ECF without knowing there is an issue with safety especially in regard to the choice of batteries, then we have done what we can.


Max Discharge rates - This number gets tossed around like it’s an absolute number cast in stone..........

Yes, I appreciate the issues, among which are that a battery with a C rating of 1 amp will most likely deliver bursts of 2 or 3 amps with no ill effects. But what we are ultimately talking about is the safety margin. The bigger the battery, and the higher the C rating, and the better the manufacturer - then the bigger the safety margin. Batteries fail and blow because they have faults, whether internal or in their charging regime, and are then overdriven. The bigger the safety margin, the less likely they are to blow. After all, nothing is *safe*, it's just a question of the safety margin - and the bigger the better.


On safe batteries and runaways:
LiFePo4's and IMR's are safer because they don't explode- you covered that…..

Fair enough. However there is still a question in my mind about Li-FePo4's as (a) they will be heavily overcharged by some users, and (b) apparently this has already happened and one blew. I am not happy about putting Li-FePo4's in tier 1 for this reason, as they are not *intrinsically* safe - user error can still make them fail, and user error is what we are trying to remove from the equation.


Stacking itself is not dangerous - that needs to be clarified and you need to stop saying it is dangerous - it's not when done properly…..

Yes, I agree. There are many who have said to me, "You should advise that series battery config is a bad idea" - but like you I don't agree. What stacking does do, though, is it *clearly* raises the risk level, and as far as I can see that is what I've written. However in one or two places maybe I went too far so please give me a link to that, if you feel I did.

I have several mods that run series batteries and I wouldn't do that if I personally felt it was dangerous. But there is an increase in risk, and you cannot deny that. In fact most mod blowups reported are with stacked batteries, and that illustrates the point well.


You can't protect people from themselves - I think we're better off with guidelines, standards, seal of approval/certifications and education than simply classifying batteries.

Well, this is true to a certain extent but we cannot just step away and say, "Tough but we can't protect people from themselves". What we have to do is try and find a way to do just that - or at least go as far as humanly possible in that direction.

We've been arguing hard among ourselves for 6 months now and the only thing to win out is advice about batteries. Battery guidelines is the way we will go, the only debate left now is what/how.

User error is always going to be the main factor and it cannot be completely removed from the equation, it's always there, a new buyer is always going to come along and buy any mod together with any battery - unless we tell them otherwise. The simplest, easiest way to stop that direct route to an explosion is warnings everywhere and advice on what batteries to buy. We've debated hard on everything else and that's the only thing that survived the debate. All other options such as approving mods, banning some mods, banning all mods, banning this or that, having approvals committees, etc etc, fell by the wayside.

It's a combination of what will stop the blowups + what is acceptable to all + what will survive in the long term. We know what will work and it's warnings plus battery guidelines. We started down this road 6 months ago and the results have been very good so far, but not perfect. It needs more warnings as some buyers are still falling through the net (even now there are suppliers selling mods with no battery guidelines of any kind whatsoever). The very public battery guidelines are the next, and I hope final, stage.

When nobody reports that they bought a mod through ECF and it blew up, then we have succeeded. Until then there is work to do. You also have to remember that there is a lot of resistance to any of this, so whatever we do has to be acceptable to the majority.
 
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xpetechp

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I think you are definitely departing from conventional safety standards. Are you doing this just to get to 5.2V? ...
...Sorry if it's not what you wanted to hear, but duby is 100% right...

Thanks for the explaination Jimho - you're 1st line is right - I wanted the 5.2V without a regulator. I don't mind admitting I was wrong, I think I over thought my circuit. And, truthfully, I was unaware of the high failure possibility of the protection circuit.

With that in mind - I'm open to suggestion on changing the battery pack... For now I'm just going to hardwire one side of my connector.

I really appreciate honest discourse and I like learning more! Hope to run into you again on my next design.

Pete :)
 

jimho

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Roly- Thanks for the detailed response- I appreciate and support the motivation...
Sorry if I hit a nerve…

I think we're starting in the same place and ending in very different places. You want to reduce the likelihood of a hazardous situation by suggesting use of the safest batteries. I think the effort should be directed at creating an environment/marketplace that encourages the development of mods that remove the battery safety issues from the equation.

Part of the my problem here may be that you may be providing too much information. If the premise is that a large number of users don't know what a DMM is and don't care to learn how to use them properly, then make your write it up clearly for them. They don't want to read 20 pages of detailed information with Ohm's law and C ratings. They don't want to know why... If that's who you want to address, just tell them that there are physical risks associated with mods that don't have circuit protection and if they don't want to take the time to learn about it stick with their eGos and 801's ....if they want the safest battery, and you want to tell them it’s IMR’s because all things considered they are the safest due to their chemistry do that. Don't explain it. Not saying I agree- I don’t know what really happens when you short an IMR, can’t find any firsthand experiences and have no intention of trying it myself….. I still don’t think you should be citing specific batteries- but if you insist, I’d make it a soft recommendation i.e- these brands are known and acknowledged to be of good quality…

Most people drive it till the idiot lights come on. Till we have mods with idiot lights you can only do so much ...

I do agree that a majority of the users out there don't appreciate the risks they are taking on with some of the higher powered batteries and mods. I disagree with the premise that a DMM is useless to 98% of the users. I would urge you to suggest that those users who don't know how to use one and don't want to learn should stick to manufactured e-go's, 510's, 801's etc or the few regulated or VV mods that have additional protection circuitry.

RE LiFePo4’s in 4.1V chargers- sorry- who’s fault is it when you run a red light in a busy intersection? It’s certainly not an indication that the car is unsafe… Sticking an IMR in a nicad charger is equally dangerous.

In all of this I have to wonder how many problems are a result of poor battery selection vs poor/stupid practices vs a failed atty. I'm willing to bet that many of the reported battery failures are a result of a shorted atty. The logic you are using about safety margins and high current ratings would suggest that the highest mAh batterys are safer because the load of a 1.5 atty is well within their inherent ability to drive more current . So now an AW 18650 1600 mAh IMR that can pump 10Amps through a short (and will continuously do so till it runs dry) becomes our safest alternative because the battery won’t explode.... somehow that doesn't seem right.

If you do this the right way, can change the attitude of many of the mod makers that are really great machinists but distrustful or ignorant of the electronics and making these devices without protection circuitry. The technology is certainly there and has been for many years with simple single chip regulators... If you think about it, safer mods and stronger standards would address a majority of the problems by having the mod makers isolate the power source from the circuit….. they teach that in electronics 101….. these are after all ELECTRONIC cigarettes…

Regarding the logistics of confirming that mods and approved suppliers meet certain standards - I suppose I'm missing something. Better Homes and Garden’s seal of approval doesn’t expose them to risk if a product fails. I understand ECF’s desire to avoid legal risk and confrontation with modder's but stating that that the seal of approval is an acknowledgement that documentation is provided and a product’s design is consistent with recognized best practices is a bit different than sanctioning mods…. I'm not suggesting you test them, I'm suggesting that you validate that the devices’ design specifications meet certain minimum requirements and provides complete information. No different than what you are proposing to do with batteries but much more meaningful context to this community. It is not banning any more than a list of sanctioned batteries would be-
I would volunteer to do help set the standards (most of what you already have), create a process whereby a mod could be submitted and easily reviewed with not much more than a glance and work as a reviewer … with a bit of work or funding, it could even be automated.
 
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rolygate

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Hey Jim,

No - I'm sorry, if my reply looked like some sort of reaction. You raised a number of points and the right thing was a comprehensive reply so that you know where we stand.

Eventually, when we have it all sorted out, our advice will be presented in the simple form of:

1. Don't fit unprotected Li-ion batteries, or non-rechargeables.
2. Here is a list of the safest batteries - it makes sense to use them.
3. Mods need safety features, if you buy one without then your risk increases.

We've tried to change the attitude of mod makers, it's slowly having an effect but on the whole it's not happening fast enough.

As far as approving mods goes, we can't do that and won't. There may not be any that could be said to be 'as safe as possible' since all seem to lack one or more of the obvious safety features required. None even have a UL or CE mark as far as I know, which means they may be illegal to sell in some regions in any case.

Warnings are the way to go, along with information presented as simply as possible.
 

jimho

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Did I say safe as possible? should have been minimal safety considerations....
ok... move forward..;-) Obviously I'm passionate about this...

Just give me something hard I can point mod makers to when they say "VV/regulation is a scam" or "why add that complexity".

I was going to mention UL/CE but didn't want to go there... without isolating the batteries, I don't think it would happen...

Go with the lesser of evils approach.... I'd rather help you with that, than argue a point I'm not going to win...

Thought on the IMRs... I keep going back and forth on thinking if they are safer than LiFePo4s or not... I think it depends on the situation... I spent some time after my last post looking for reports of IMR failures... found a few indicating runaway with excessive heat and chemical leakage when shorted as opposed to LiFePO4s which just reportedly (and from my experience) get hot in runaway.... point being that the IMRs will run away when shorted and have the potential to be more damaging than LiFePo4s... trade off being with lower density/lower C, the LiFePo (add: typical 16340/rcr123a) is more likely to be stressed with a normal (LR) load ....
 
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duby

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How so? Why? Seems it would make sense to respond to what xpetechp has posted, point out the errors of his findings or method rather than just toss off some general qualitative comment. Some actual thought went into his post. He has measured, collected data and evaluated the results.
Willy, I posted an explanation on xpetechp's mod write up thread. I thought i had linked it sorry for the confusion. The aforementioned thread was deleted at some point. I don't want to bother re-posting everything, but in short Every battery manufacturer on the planet will tell you not to mix batteries of differing chemistry, voltage, states of charge, or capacity. It leads to the problems Jim described.

I do agree that a majority of the users out there don't appreciate the risks they are taking on with some of the higher powered batteries and mods. I disagree with the premise that a DMM is useless to 98% of the users. I would urge you to suggest that those users who don't know how to use one and don't want to learn should stick to manufactured e-go's, 510's, 801's etc or the few regulated or VV mods that have additional protection circuitry.
Jim I agree 100%.


Li-FePo4's can blow (apparently there is a report on ECF somewhere of them failing),
I'd love to see this Roly. According to theory:
LiFePO4 is an intrinsically safer cathode material than LiCoO2 since exothermic reactions can not occur in batteries based on this material: LiFePO4 cells do not incinerate or explode under extreme conditions. In addition, LiFePO4 cells have a higher discharge current, are not toxic and have a much higher cycle life than LiCoO2 cells.

I suspect that someone is confusing Lithium Polymer with LiFePO4.
 

jimho

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I agree on the LiFePO4's not exploding- I've searched and never found evidence of an actual explosion from the battery being abused - everything I've seen says they shouldn't be able to explode or catch fire on their own ....... I'd welcome evidence to the contrary.
That said, they can runaway and will get hot enough to burn skin in a tube mod (ask me how I know)- From what i experienced I would think they have the capability to melt some plastics during a runaway .... this is what initially got me started looking into their safety....

Dubby- that looks like something i've seen before - i'd leave room for exceptions " LiFePO4 cells generally have .... "... also the term "incinerate" suggests they won't catch on fire themselves. It doesnt rule out the possibility of getting hot enough to start a fire on something else.... I wouldn't discount the possibility of a cheap charger behaving badly or becomming phisically damaged from heat if it was set for 3.7 and had a LiFePo4 in it..... I'd add "Like all other Lithium based batteries, they can be dangerous when overloaded producing excessive heat"


Roly- is it possible that the discussion you are recalling is this one http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ikenvape/84144-batteries-safety-2.html#post1599922

BTW that thread has quite a few gems in it...
 

duby

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Jim, its a quote from manufacturer somewhere.
They can absolutely get hot and potentially burn skin or anything flammable they are near.
In the case of someone placing a LiFePO4 in a 3.7v charger my primary worry would be a charger malfunction due to the jacked up internal resistance. As I am sure everyone is aware this can quickly lead to a fire.
I am sure we could all tangent on the issues related to cheap and poorly made chargers and their potential to start a fire. We could even diverge in to faked UL/CE labels.

Like all other Lithium based batteries, they can be dangerous when overloaded producing excessive heat"
How about "...like all batteries..." Ni-Cd's, NiMh, Pb-Acid, Alkaline, primary lithium, Ni-Zn can all be dangerous if shorted, over discharged, over charged, placed in a fire, etc.

Well, I can't say I know any Jim's from NY off the top of my head. Though I know plenty of Jims and one of them could have moved around the country.
 

jimho

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all batteries..." Ni-Cd's, NiMh, Pb-Acid, Alkaline, primary lithium, Ni-Zn can all be dangerous if shorted, over discharged, over charged, placed in a fire, etc.
Sounds good.....just didn't want to reitterate the overload warning.

Well, I can't say I know any Jim's from NY off the top of my head. Though I know plenty of Jims and one of them could have moved around the country.
Nice to meet you ;-)
 
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