Battery warnings :)

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Drozd

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OK Drozd, I'll try to fix that somehow.

We need some sort of list or chart so next week I'll look at doing that, if nothing turns up in the meantime.

exactly what are you looking for in said list or chart...I got a couple of things partially finished (like an amp draw chart for 3.2, 3.7, 5, 6, and 7.4V ranging for atties from 1.5Ω to 5.2Ω and a wattage chart that goes with that)...
been sorta working on a battery by max drain rate chart....

basically let us know what you need and I'm sure one of us will do our best to get it for ya
 

BuzzKill

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OK. I think there is maybe a difference in US and UK English for this, a short-circuit = a dead short so I will change that if it's not clear.

It would sure be nice to see over-current protection in mods that are using Li-Mn etc. I don't know if it's possible to put that in tube mods though? Many of the tube mod builders don't seem to want to add electronics, maybe it's difficult in the tube format, I don't know. But if you have batteries that can put out 20 amps+ then it might just be a good idea...*

* Just found a spec sheet with a 26650 LiFePO4 that puts out 70 amps 10 sec duty. Wheeeee...

It's good to see vendors implementing safety features and adding battery information to their packaging. To be honest it's something I never understood, how someone can sell a product that will easily explode in the buyer's face if they use the wrong batteries, and they don't even warn them. Surely they can see the risk - not to mention that such a buyer would get a lot of money in compensation if they lost an eye. Beats me.

Anyway things are improving now, everyone is getting better information.


ROLY this part ( or a similar part ) RUSBF135 FUSE USB RESETTABLE 1.35A HOLD - RUSBF135
is a resettable FUSE when the current goes over a pre set level it OPENS then after a while it will CLOSE , they are $0.45 each .

I put this out there because it is a small part that could be integrated into almost ANY MOD and provide over current protection for almost NOTHING ! .

They come in many current settings the 135 version is 2.7 amps trip current , so if the current goes above 2.7 amps it will open for 4.5 seconds , this will provide protection for a dead short .

FYI MFG's !! consider this a freebee LOL !

BTW mismatching batteries and chargers is solely up to the user , this is true in any industry BUT If a seller sells a set they must make sure they are compatible IMO .
 
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rolygate

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@Drozd
I have a feeling that buGG might be doing something so let's wait on that. If nothing happens there, what we should do is a list of Li-ions that are OK: what is the smallest viable size - then list the all larger sizes as they would be OK. Same for Li-Mn and LiFePo4. Then list what manufacturers products are OK in each of those sizes. Also list some of those not suitable.

There is almost certainly a way to make that into a chart, but first I guess we need the info:

- what is the smallest protected Li-ion that will safely run an atty?
- ditto Li-Mn
- ditto Li-FePo4

- what manufacturers do we know comply for each type/size?
- which of those currently used don't comply?

You could probably make a chart with a green area (good choices), an amber area (possible but more risk), and red (not suitable). But anyway, a list comes first. Let's argue about what is in or out before working up a chart.
 
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rolygate

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@Buzz
Cheap resettable fuse huh. Sounds good. Maybe needs 5 or 6A though, those are available too by the looks of it.

Yes, if you sell a mod with batts, it makes sense to supply the right ones. Or just tell people what is suitable. There is maybe going to be an issue with length though, if you swap between Li-ion protected and Li-Mn for example. But whatever is supplied, there should be warnings everywhere not to put unprotected Li-ions in.
 

Dillinger

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So I just read through the Battery Info page, it is very informative and enlightening, but now I am curious about testing things with a multimeter. I don't have one and would like to learn more. For example, 1)What exactly can you test with a multimeter (batteries, atties, circuitry,etc)? 2)What features should a good multimeter have? 3)How do you use a multimeter(if they are at all standardized)?

Adding this to the Battery Info page, I think, might be helpful. In the meantime, does anyone have links to satisfy my thirst for knowledge?:)
 

rolygate

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I can see there is going to be the question asked: is protection built in to the mod the same as protection built in to the battery/ies. Luckily I'm not qualified to answer that...

I guess you have to build a mod for protected or unprotected Li-ions as the length is different, so you can't use either, it has to be one or the other. Maybe you can use Li-Mn's instead of unprotected Li-ion's, if that is the case I guess that's what I'd do. Or LiFePo4's maybe, with 2 you'd still get 6v plus. Depends if Li-Mn and LiFePo4 are the same length as unprotected Li-ion, got a feeling they are.
 

buGG

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@Drozd
I have a feeling that buGG might be doing something so let's wait on that. If nothing happens there, what we should do is a list of Li-ions that are OK: what is the smallest viable size - then list the all larger sizes as they would be OK. Same for Li-Mn and LiFePo4. Then list what manufacturers products are OK in each of those sizes. Also list some of those not suitable.

There is almost certainly a way to make that into a chart, but first I guess we need the info:

- what is the smallest protected Li-ion that will safely run an atty?
- ditto Li-Mn
- ditto Li-FePo4

- what manufacturers do we know comply for each type/size?
- which of those currently used don't comply?

You could probably make a chart with a green area (good choices), an amber area (possible but more risk), and red (not suitable). But anyway, a list comes first. Let's argue about what is in or out before working up a chart.

no, i'm not presently working on a chart or anything. i like drozd's "gluttony" for such a project, and i agree that it would be really cool to actually see. it's a daunting project for me because there are just far too many batteries available across the various sizes and chemistries, and even common sources like dx, eBay, dino direct, kaidomain, best offer buy, etc., may offer any number of them without actually giving you any valuable specs to properly gauge their behavior and performance with a given atty and across the cycle of the battery. very cool to think about, but too intense and variable for me.

there may be some opposition to this, but again i suggest sticking with the five battery approach. you could get every battery in IMR, IFR, ICR, even INR below 16340 and chart them with a given atomizer at a given voltage, loaded or unloaded, but it's more helpful to know that none of them will safely handle the amp draw of a vaping application and most will require special charging considerations. you can look at any number of 18650 batteries and higher, and graph each accordingly, with varying results, but ultimately most if not all commonly used 18650s, regardless of their chemistries, will meet the demands. in between you really only have four battery sizes, across three chemistries, and three manufacturers that meet all the safety and performance requirements for vaping. there are more when you begin to do the math and think about what applies for a low resistance atty but not a Joye 306, or a Joye 306, but not a KR808, or a Joye 510, but not a SLB 510, or all high resistance atomizers even though no one is likely to use them outside of running batteries in series. the easiest, and arguably the best advice to give someone is to only use an AW IMR16340, an AW IFR16340, an AW IMR14500, a protected AW ICR17670/ Pila 300S/ WE-LRB168B and a protected AW ICR18500/ Pila 600S /WE-LRB150A if they are using any battery for a mod smaller than an 18650. doubtful, but there may be some IFR14500 and IFR 17mm, but likely only 18500 and above that meet these specs. if so, i don't know exactly what they are. after that there are more and more choices to be had, across chemistries, and because of the increased energy density in IMR cells coupled with lower runtimes, i would recommend a good protected AW ICR cell at those sizes and higher anyway as i don't want to even think about a user overcharging an IMR26650 or causing a dead short and releasing all that current. yes fuses are excellent options, and all the mod-built safety features as well, but what's even safer or ultimately safest in my opinion, is only using the batteries qualified for the job to begin with, and of course charging them properly.

in sum, i think it gets complicated and can span several pages of information that is indeed useful, but likely to be overlooked or misinterpreted, all because there are all these different options available and to the layman on the surface it would appear that it's all too much to take in and take seriously, or that a battery is a battery is a battery... just get the size you need and maybe think about an IMR if you are going to use a LR atty and if you have the extra cash or if you like the color orange. of course this is oversimplifying the matter, but the most helpful information will be presented in the simplest form...and if we are concerned about chargers having acceptable charging rates for our commonly used battery sizes, if we are concerned about whether a battery is safe enough to meet the demands of mod use when run in series, if we are concerned about a given amp draw, about the reliability and threshold of a given protection circuit for our uses, if we are concerned about reputable manufacturers, consistent and even remotely accurate specs, and well tested behavior and performance histories with a cell, then you pretty much have to stick with these batteries. outside of these you are talking about using balancing chargers, very specific atomizer models and resistances, maybe even some that haven't been made yet, restricting specific voltage use, and generally taking disparate, conflicting, and often incoherent information across the web or blindly trusting the cheap option, and putting a potential IED in your hand, up to your face, by your bedside, around your family, etc. again, i'm not against users doing what they will, and i understand that this will occur anyway, but as far as recommendations are concerned these battery sizes and manufacturers are the ones to give across the board until all other variables, not just mods, but atomizers, chargers, etc., can otherwise improve the safety and performance demands of the batteries we use. one or more of these variables is likely to always be wanting, and again it will be the battery that ultimately determines the extent of any given failure.
 
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duby

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really there's no reason to go to LiMN in the 18650 size
Charging and Safety. You can charge LiMn's at higher rates. There is no PCB to fail.
In most cases though neither of these things matter. Having a PCB that cuts off at 4.2V is arguably better for most desktop charger use; few of which charge at rates high enough to warrant a need for IMR's.

I can see there is going to be the question asked: is protection built in to the mod the same as protection built in to the battery/ies. ..
No. The easy explanation is charging. Protection in a mod does nothing for your batteries when they are on a charger.

On that note, You should never leave batteries on a charger over night, or for any extended period of time unattended. This is particularly important when using cheaper chargers. Many of them fail to shut off and continue to trickle charge after 4.2V. Protection circuits will kick in and cut off the current if they are around.



)What exactly can you test with a multimeter (batteries, atties, circuitry,etc)? 2)
Yes. Multimeters measure resistance, voltage, and current. In addition they can be used to check continuity and measure temperature.
This all of course depends on the model you have.

One last thing.
Battery Disposal Guide for Households - Where to Safely Recycle Used Batteries
Recycling batteries

Call2recycle.org has a zipcode search for drop off locations for batteries.
Call2Recycle US > Recycling Your Rechargeable Batteries and Cell Phones
 

rolygate

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OK then let's bite the bullet.

We need a list of good/better/best batteries or similar. It's been suggested that we should not actually say 'recommended' since if one of them blows, and any battery probably can if mistreated, then we have some liability.

I don't think it is practical for us to say, "Only use the 5 best batteries", but we could give levels of suitability/quality. As long as people have the info, they can choose. So, we could say something like Tier 1, Tier 2 and so on. Maybe it can go like the list below.

So:
1. Suggestions please for edits to this text, which will go in where the 'Safe Battery Chart' section is on the Battery Info page.
2. Suggestions please for batteries in each tier.


___________________________________

Rechargeable cells for use in mods
Here is a list of batteries considered suitable for mods. We don't 'recommend' any as that implies a statement they are absolutely safe. No rechargeable battery is entirely safe under all possible conditions of charging, care and use. All cells discussed here are the rechargeable version ('secondary cells'), not the standard / non-rechargeable type ('primary cells').

Tier 1 batteries
These batteries have the capacity and quality of manufacture to make them the top choice for use in ecig mods. Tier 1 batteries are the best of the best.
[here go the 5 (?) batts suggested as the best - AW Li-Mn's?]

Tier 2 batteries
These batteries are good quality and a good choice although not the ultimate. They have the capacity to run an atomizer.
[here are cells like Pila, LiFePo4 etc]

Tier 3 batteries
These batteries appear to have the capacity to run an atomizer - but there are two quality levels better.
[here go some odd models that may have the capacity but are not of the highest quality]


Notes

Larger batteries
In size 18500 and larger, all Li-Mn and LiFePo4 and almost all protected Li-ions are suitable. Since the main issue is "Does the battery have sufficient capacity to run an atomizer safely?", they pass - and most pass easily.

Whether they are actually too big is another question. Some say a mod taking a 26500 series battery needs some sort of dead short protection, as the current delivered may be high.

Smaller batteries
No battery smaller than the smallest size given in the list above is deemed suitable, as it cannot be large enough to have the required capacity.

Ni-Mh and Ni-Zn batteries
These are not included as they are of a different voltage and cannot be used in standard-format mods. Check the C rating, if over 1 amp (1000mA) then they may be suitable for mods specifically built for them. They do not come with or need built-in protection.

Other batteries
No other batteries are thought suitable although it is possible there may be exceptions. The critical factor is the C rating: unless it is over 1 amp then a battery cannot be considered suitable for powering an atomizer. Quality is another consideration: if you want the best then go with AW, Pila and Wolf Eyes.

Length of cells
Li-ion batteries need protection PCBs, which are added on to the bottom of the cell. Therefore protected Li-ion cells are longer than unprotected ones and will usually not fit in a mod designed for unprotected ones. However Li-Mn cells, being unprotected (they don't need it), are usually the same length as unprotected Li-ion's so they can be used instead. This route can sometimes be taken for mods where the protection is built-in to the mod and the mod is designed to take shorter (unprotected) cells.

Check with the supplier to see if Li-Mn's such as AW will fit. This may be the best option of all if it works, since you would then in theory have the best set-up of all - a top quality battery maker, the best type of battery chemistry, and the best type of mod - one with added protection circuits.

________________________________________
 

rolygate

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Here is a starter list, to get things going...........


Tier 1
--only AW Li-Mn's are placed in Tier 1, except for the two largest sizes as all good cells will comply--

14500 format:
AW IMR 14500 Li-Mn [600mAh, 8C]

16340 format (CR123 size):
AW IMR 16340 Li-Mn [550mAh, 8C]

18490 / 18500 formats:
AW IMR18490 Li-Mn [C/discharge = 8.8A]

18650 format:
Almost all comply - but quality control, manufacturer reputation, and consistent good test results should lead users toward AW, Wolf Eyes, and Pila.
Purchasers should consider if only Li-Mn's such as AW are best suited to Tier 1 classification.

26500 / 26650 formats:
As per 18650 above.



Tier 2
--other makes of Li-Mn--
--all LiFePo4's that have a sufficient C rating--
--best Li-ion's, like AW, Pila and Wolf Eyes--

16340 format:
AW IFR 16340 LiFePo4 (3.2V) [500mAh, 8C]

17670 format:
AW ICR 17670 Li-ion
Pila 600S Li-ion
Wolf Eyes LRB-168B Li-ion

18490 / 18500 formats:
AW ICR 18500 Li-ion
Wolf Eyes LRB-150A Li-ion [dia. 18.5mm]



Tier 3
--assorted batteries that *may* possibly comply with C rating requirement etc--

17500 format (CR123 size):
Wolf Eyes LRB-150B [dia. 16.5mm]
 
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buGG

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not sure why the ICR17670s don't get first tier status. all have exceptional protection circuitry on par with the 18500 and 18650, as well as a 2C/ 3.2A discharge/drain rate.

also, AW does not make any 15270 (aka CR2) cells, let alone an IMR in that size. though IMRs apparently exist in that size, along with 10440s, and possibly 14250s, AW has stated that a 280mAh, 4C, 1.12A spec is the absolute most we could hope to get out of any IMR below the 14500 or 16340 size. it's hard enough as it is trying to get fully disclosed (let alone accurate) specs on these sizes from their manufacturers, but if not run in series and if only run with an atomizer with a resistance of 3.3Ω or higher they may fit the bill.

and also listed in tier 3 is the wolf eyes LRB150B, but this cell is a 17500, not 16340, and when stacked they are typically used to replace applications utilizing three RCR123A/16340 batteries. their specs don't quite measure up, but the LRB150A, which is an 18500 cell, will meet our needs and match the AW specs in that chemistry.

and the AW IFR16340 is a 8-10C, 8 being a maximum continuous discharge rating, so 4A (up to 5A) safely for the drain rate.

also, most of the IFR18500 cells i've found for sale (may all be shenzen mottcell) have specs above 3A, though there seems to be some discrepancy, some even stating 7A, so take it with a grain of salt. nevertheless, the cell size and chemistry should realistically put it at around 800 mAh, 4C, 3.2A or higher.
 

rolygate

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OK, deleted/edited as advised.

We have a decision to make though: is it best to only put AW Li-Mn's in Tier 1? This is what some think (ie the "only 5 batteries are *really* safe" argument) - it does seem to have some validity. Those AW's are going to be hard to blow. It has been stated that a PCB can fail and that it doesn't always fail safe, to open-circuit, it can fail to straight-thru. I don't know if this is true but to avoid the risk, maybe Li-ion's should not go in Tier 1, even if from AW and Pila.

That's why I put them in Tier 2 - meaning they are good batts, but not theoretically as safe as an AW Li-Mn.
 
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buGG

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well, i guess it depends on your operational definition of safety. if you are looking to the past as an indicator of the future (in terms of batteries that have had problems, commonalities among their setup, and then those that haven't), i would be inclined to include the aforementioned AW li-ions that technically meet the requirements. AW has a protection pcb circuit with a current threshold of up to 5A. could it fail? yes, but i'd rely on it over an IMR at 17670, 18500, and certainly 18650 and above. the reason why is because the energy density of the IMR in those bigger cells, coupled with a lack of any protection circuitry, is potentially dangerous in the event of a dead short. cells that don't vent with flames, still vent, and venting non-flammable gas at some of those higher discharge rates will not only impact the battery itself, but potentially the enclosure (mod), and the user holding it. all of these batteries are lithium ions, all of them need to be used carefully and with safety as a first priority, but those with quality protection circuitry to shut down at 5A, to prevent over discharge and overcharge, and still meet the application demands of the user, are probably the most plug and play of the bunch. steel bottom plates also protect the pcb circuitry from failure due to tail springs, and i can attest to the fact that many of my non-AW batteries have been beat up and some have serious indentations on the bottom plates from the nipple top of another battery or a spring on the battery end cap. did those batteries with a pcb actually suffer any damage to the protection board? not sure, but some were rather lopsided because of it, negating proper fit in the mod housing, and regardless anyone should feel better that you don't see visible defects and that protection is there to sustain that as opposed to seeing an increasingly deformed cell by virtue of the application you subject it too and hoping everything is okay nonetheless. additionally, AW apparently has an anti-explosion vent/PTC module on these protected ICR cells that prevents gas build up by separating electrodes inside the cell, opening and releasing pressure through the vents and preventing chemical reactions that may otherwise lead to explosion. does it work, and if so, is it fail-proof? i have no idea, and don't want to find out. but it's one of those things that you don't know is working unless it doesn't. but any reports of any issues with these ICR cells, or any really, should be an indicator of their usefulness for our purposes.

so we may have a disagreement with IMR batteries being the safest all across the board. no big deal here, and bound to happen all across the community and for different reasons. your ideal mod may be one that takes a single IMR26650, whereas mine would one that takes an ICR17670 for vaping at 3.7V and IFR and IMR 16340s in series for 6.4, or even 7.4V. you've got me beat on runtime, but none of my cells, should failure arise, will vent such tremendous amount of current as that 26650 will. the ICR 17670 will have exceptional, if only in theory, protection circuitry that i may in fact never need, and i'll have AW IFR and IMR cells that both individually and stacked will meet the demands of the application with sufficiently high discharge rate, with safer chemistry that won't vent with flames in the event of a dead short, and because of their relative small size the current potential remains much safer to deal with should a short occur and venting take place. if your mod has protection built in to prevent these failures, then your setup with an IMR26650 may be better than mine that relies solely on the batteries. but if batteries are the weakest link, as they often are, i want to be sure that the ones i'm using fit the demands job, result in the least amount of damage possible, and have safety features and/or chemistry to further aid in this objective. finding the right balance here with batteries that 1) initially meet the demands of the application and the charging apparatus being used, and 2) have the safety features and/or chemistry with some sort of record of tested and repeatable performance, will then open the user to options in terms of sizes and series, and all kinds of factors that may lead them to one set over another based upon what they know and what they demand of what's available for them to use.

***
p.s. even if the tiers remained unchanged and the first only included the IMR chemistry cells from AW because of their inherent safety, why not include the AW IFR16340 as well? the protected ICR batteries in different sizes is debatable, i know, largely because this is the chemistry that has demonstrated failure in the past. but not all ICRs are created equal, and even if relatively new to our uses, we should safely assume that not all IMR and IFR will be created equal either. nevertheless, i suspect that as more and more "IMR" cells, and potentially "IFR" as well, arrive from various manufacturers and of varying sizes, "incidents" will likely occur with them, and we'll have to revisit the chemistry debate and more rigorously examine the manufacturing, the prior use (application) history of the cell, if any, and how closely any given specs of the battery itself were followed by the user in the actual use (drain) and maintenance (charging and storage) of them before something went wrong.
 
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rolygate

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OK will absorb & think about all that :)

Maybe the best Li-ions should go in Tier 1.

Personally I don't like Li-FePo4s in Tier 1 as there has to be a good chance they will get overcharged one way or another. It's all down to user error anyway and users are going to overcharge LiFePo4s, it's bound to happen.
 

duby

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Personally I don't like Li-FePo4s in Tier 1 as there has to be a good chance they will get overcharged one way or another. It's all down to user error anyway and users are going to overcharge LiFePo4s, it's bound to happen.

The same is potentially true for any IMR. LiFePO4 is less likely to explode than an IMR. They in fact handle overcharging extremely well, this is one of their advantages. LiFePO4s are used in applications where overcharging is highly probably because of their ability to take the abuse.
The only battery you can't overcharge is one with a quality PCB that cuts off at 4.2V. (Well, max voltage for the cell).

If you want to consider user error, you have more to consider than just overcharging. Accidental shorting of the cell outside of the mod is just as dangerous. Lets say someone takes a charged battery and places it in their pocket, the same pocket with their keys. A little bumping around and the keys can short the battery in their pocket.
Any time the plastic wrap around a cell is damaged it exposes the anode. In some cases it can expose the anode in a way that circumvents the PCB. A short between the positive terminal and this scratch on the side of your battery can happen and the PCB will provide no protection. Everyone should take care and note any scratches on their batteries. If you are worried you can test the scratch with a multimeter. If its a problem, a piece of tape can repair the scratch.
If you are confused, the entire outer wall of the cylinder and the bottom of the can are all the negative terminal(It is all one piece of metal). The PCB is mounted to the bottom of the can and only protects circuits that are inline with it. The plastic wrap insulates the outer wall from being used as a terminal.

Lastly, the more I think about this the more I believe it is foolish to say "use this battery and this charger." It leaves too much to user error and allows for too many variables. Careless people set their houses on fire and burn down forests with cigarettes.
 
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