Been in the workshop
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Not a loop. Riveted in a metal clip. Nice strong clip too.
When I was designing it I knew I would have to wear it with my normal belts and a 4" wide belt that I'll be wearing in a few weeks. (Had to fabricate a buckle as I found out that 4" wide belts aren't common...)
The rivet and clip are sandwiched between leather to keep them from scratching The Precious so only the part that clips to the belt is exposed. Flap latch is the typed used on LEO's equipment pouches and also has the back screw head covered in leather.
There are a few things I would do differently if I ever made another one like bring the clip cover leather all the way up so the inside of the flap is top grain too and cut a bit deeper on the wood that is used to form interior for a more solid stop when reholstering the PV.
If I knew there was a tanner in my county where I can get unsanded leather, I would have gone with a natural grain instead of smooth grain. (But I have lots of smooth grain of various weights laying around still. Not sure I should be getting another side of leather.). The tanner had a tent set up at the county fair and I spent quite awhile going over his novel approach to tanning and how he built his equipment.
Still trying to come up with a cart holder that would match AND work well. The two seem to be mutually exclusive right now...
Thanks for the kind words! I felt like a kid with a new toy when it was done.
When I was designing it I knew I would have to wear it with my normal belts and a 4" wide belt that I'll be wearing in a few weeks. (Had to fabricate a buckle as I found out that 4" wide belts aren't common...)
The rivet and clip are sandwiched between leather to keep them from scratching The Precious so only the part that clips to the belt is exposed. Flap latch is the typed used on LEO's equipment pouches and also has the back screw head covered in leather.
There are a few things I would do differently if I ever made another one like bring the clip cover leather all the way up so the inside of the flap is top grain too and cut a bit deeper on the wood that is used to form interior for a more solid stop when reholstering the PV.
If I knew there was a tanner in my county where I can get unsanded leather, I would have gone with a natural grain instead of smooth grain. (But I have lots of smooth grain of various weights laying around still. Not sure I should be getting another side of leather.). The tanner had a tent set up at the county fair and I spent quite awhile going over his novel approach to tanning and how he built his equipment.
Still trying to come up with a cart holder that would match AND work well. The two seem to be mutually exclusive right now...
Thanks for the kind words! I felt like a kid with a new toy when it was done.
Wait, you're in construction? You've gotta have some talent to stay in that. (Barring current unemployment, of course, nature of the beast that when things go south that industry gets hit early and hardest.)
Leather is easy. Cloth is hard. You want to see a shirt completely screwed up give me a button, needle and thread and that sucker will be unwearable forevermore.
I need a holster like that for my Buzz. Fine work Hoosier.....real nice work. Congratulations. I love leather and since I've ridden Harleys for 40 years, I have a few leather items. The older they get, the better they get.
Will ya make me a black one now Hoosier for my Buzz???:
Will ya make me a black one now Hoosier for my Buzz???:
Since I have another version of The Precious with a JD coming, I will have to break out the stuff sometime.
I'd need a wooden model of your Buzz, or something close to the interior shape/volume to make the leather shaping molds. (That's the trickest part of making pistol holsters too. I'm not good at working wood. This one was made by whittling a dowel rod which went much better than my pistol models.)
I'd need a wooden model of your Buzz, or something close to the interior shape/volume to make the leather shaping molds. (That's the trickest part of making pistol holsters too. I'm not good at working wood. This one was made by whittling a dowel rod which went much better than my pistol models.)
Sorry...Yes it does.
On your holster shown above, you only have the Precious in it in that picture with NO atty/carto screwed on---Correct?
OK..that's why it looked "tapered" at the bottom a bit. So, instead of 4" - I think I would want 7.5" total length.((7&1/2")) With my carto/driptip-eGo-t, 3.5" extra would cover it. So,7.5" total length.((7&1/2"))
Not sure if I need the bottom end tapered like yours or not. Even if it were NOT tapered, it would still be fine, I think. What do you think?
The taper allows the positive mold, the wooden model, to be pulled out of the negative mold. It also allow the leather to center and grip the PV. The model comes out of the mold in the same manner that the PV comes out of the holster.
I understand...Sounds excellent to me. 7.5" length with my carto/atty on would work just fine.
I really love that "Riveted in a metal clip. Nice strong clip too." Sounds very secure on the belt.
The "sandwiching" you do shows some quality workmanship that is hard to find anymore.
I really love that "Riveted in a metal clip. Nice strong clip too." Sounds very secure on the belt.
The "sandwiching" you do shows some quality workmanship that is hard to find anymore.
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