Yeah, top filling the billow is more difficult
. Arthritis and Raynaud's now that its winter are making me too clumsy.Billow RTA by EHPRO & Eciggity
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Yeah, top filling the billow is more difficult
. Arthritis and Raynaud's now that its winter are making me too clumsy.
How are you sealing the grub/set screws on the billow?
Tapered threads: The deeper you go - the tighter it gets.
I then attach a long drip tip, block the airflow, seal the airflow adjustment screws, submerge the Billow into a glass of water and blow in it vary hard.
No air bubbles were coming out from around my Grub Screws
I'm telling you: They don't leak.
The only problem of leaking with pressurized tanks I have is when the outside pressure is changing rapidly. When I'm driving up and down over the hill at 7000 feet altitude (Flagstaff, AZ) then I have to flip my tanks up-side-down and keep then this way.
With an exception of Rose V2, Aqua and Ithaka which I just shot off the juice flow. This is why I wand that Kayfun V4, to be able to shot off the juice flow when it is not in use.
There is something else that I've noticed: The Raised Airflow Tubes atomizers, like Billow and few others that I installed Raised Airflow Tubes myself, when going over the hill, some access liquid will enter the deck area. But it kept upright, the liquid will not overfill the deck above the top of those Air Tubes and, therefore will not spill into them. And then that liquid will go back into the tank when I'm going down the hill as the outside pressure increases. Or, if I am remaining at high altitude, the access liquid gets used by me vaporizing it. I'm sure there is a limit and depending on how high the attitude is (how low the pressure gets) and how long those Raised Air Tubes are, it will eventually overfill the deck and spill over to the airflow. But for me, when I'm driving over hills about 4000 - 7000 feet high, it has been working fine.
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Tapered threads: The deeper you go - the tighter it gets.
I then attach a long drip tip, block the airflow, seal the airflow adjustment screws, submerge the Billow into a glass of water and blow in it vary hard.
No air bubbles were coming out from around my Grub Screws
I'm telling you: They don't leak.
The only problem of leaking with pressurized tanks I have is when the outside pressure is changing rapidly. When I'm driving up and down over the hill at 7000 feet altitude (Flagstaff, AZ) then I have to flip my tanks up-side-down and keep then this way.
With an exception of Rose V2, Aqua and Ithaka which I just shot off the juice flow. This is why I wand that Kayfun V4, to be able to shot off the juice flow when it is not in use.
There is something else that I've noticed: The Raised Airflow Tubes atomizers, like Billow and few others that I installed Raised Airflow Tubes myself, when going over the hill, some access liquid will enter the deck area. But it kept upright, the liquid will not overfill the deck above the top of those Air Tubes and, therefore will not spill into them. And then that liquid will go back into the tank when I'm going down the hill as the outside pressure increases. Or, if I am remaining at high altitude, the access liquid gets used by me vaporizing it. I'm sure there is a limit and depending on how high the attitude is (how low the pressure gets) and how long those Raised Air Tubes are, it will eventually overfill the deck and spill over to the airflow. But for me, when I'm driving over hills about 4000 - 7000 feet high, it has been working fine.
What size screws are you using? Are you using a standard tapered/starter tap but just not taping all the way through? Or are you using an actual tapered threading tap like a national pipe thread? Curious.
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What size screws are you using? Are you using a standard tapered/starter tap but just not taping all the way through? Or are you using an actual tapered threading tap like a national pipe thread? Curious.
For the Billow I used M2.0 - 0.4mm pitch (standard) 3.0mm in length. Because, like I said, there isn't much room there. For the others I used M2.5 - 0.45mm pitch.
Nothing special. A regular Plug Tap #1 about 3.5mm deep, followed by #2 even shallower. Until I would screw in my grab screw and it will go in all the way, but stops where I wanted it to.
i have been filling by removing the base while the chimney stays with the top for a week now, easy to do. when i first assembled it i screw the chimney into top very tight. make sure to wash and dry threads and o ring. also on the base put juice on build threads to lubricate so it will separate at the base not the top. hold glass tank firmly to the top while filling. a needle bottle helps with the filling.
Lost me Trucker. Didn't know plug taps came in different number sizes. What's the diff between a 2mm #1 and a 2mm #2 plug tap? Sorry folks if I'm going OT.
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Lost me Trucker. Didn't know plug taps came in different number sizes. What's the diff between a 2mm #1 and a 2mm #2 plug tap? Sorry folks if I'm going OT.
Yes. Professional Hand (old school) Taps come in sets of 2 (sometimes 3)
First, you run #1, it cuts threads but not full threads. Then you run #2 which finalizes your threads. Or if you have a set of 3, then run # 3 next. I think you've got the idea. Of course, the are single machine Taps available, but I don't like them. Call me and old geezer if you will.
P.S: The reason I like to use old school High Carbon Steel Taps instead of High Speed Steel ones? Because if I break one, I would just heat up the piece that I broke my Tap in red-hot and, then let it cool down slowly. That would un-harden my broken Tap inside and I could drill it again (through the same hole) and tread it again with new Tap. If you look at my Kayfun 3.1 modification, you will notice that the Positive Block has a weird color. That's because I did break M1.6 Tap in it and then un-hardened it on a kitchen gas range, drilled it again an re-threaded it again. Had I used a HSS Tap, I would have to make a whole new Positive Blok. If that unfortunate thing of breaking my Tap happened.
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def looks like the next atty i will be buying. well given that it is in stock when i want to buy it in a week or so. if not ill prob go with the lemo. they both have bottom fill juice screws right? should be a standard feature on all RTAs imho.
No fair Trucker, a metal lathe! You probably have a mill too, don't ya? I wish. Thanks for the info. Ya know yer bidness bro.
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Tapered threads: The deeper you go - the tighter it gets.
I then attach a long drip tip, block the airflow, seal the airflow adjustment screws, submerge the Billow into a glass of water and blow in it vary hard.
No air bubbles were coming out from around my Grub Screws
I'm telling you: They don't leak.
The only problem of leaking with pressurized tanks I have is when the outside pressure is changing rapidly. When I'm driving up and down over the hill at 7000 feet altitude (Flagstaff, AZ) then I have to flip my tanks up-side-down and keep then this way.
With an exception of Rose V2, Aqua and Ithaka which I just shot off the juice flow. This is why I wand that Kayfun V4, to be able to shot off the juice flow when it is not in use.
There is something else that I've noticed: The Raised Airflow Tubes atomizers, like Billow and few others that I installed Raised Airflow Tubes myself, when going over the hill, some access liquid will enter the deck area. But it kept upright, the liquid will not overfill the deck above the top of those Air Tubes and, therefore will not spill into them. And then that liquid will go back into the tank when I'm going down the hill as the outside pressure increases. Or, if I am remaining at high altitude, the access liquid gets used by me vaporizing it. I'm sure there is a limit and depending on how high the attitude is (how low the pressure gets) and how long those Raised Air Tubes are, it will eventually overfill the deck and spill over to the airflow. But for me, when I'm driving over hills about 4000 - 7000 feet high, it has been working fine.
I know this is the billow thread, but since I also am a trucker I wanted to say that my 4 Lemo's don't Leak a drop in high elevations. I go to flagstaff pretty much every week and never had one leak yet. I used to get ...... driving up there when I had carto tanks or older kayfuns, lol! Nothing like reaching for your mod only to find juice pouring out of it!! Anyway, hope you get home for the holidays, take care.
Anyone see the "orchid v6" on fasttech? I saw it in their "new arrivals yesterday. It's a billow clone!
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They finally got two piece chimney in this one - That's good.
But they have plastic Air Tubes - That's bad.
Oops, I think I looked at the different one: https://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10009514/2028209-orchid-v6-style-rta-rebuildable-tank-atomizer
The one you are referring to is better: It sure does look like Billow.
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That one with the plastic tubes is a TERRIBLE design. Im no fortune teller but even I can predict melted plastic in someones near future.
That is absolutely hilarious! If you haven't seen pbusardo's review of the muses, watch it! You will laugh your .... off!
So I got sick of waiting for eciggity to send me the 2nd set of AFC screws lol.. (They sent the wrong screws the 1st time about 2 weeks ago on accident), but didn't charge me shipping the 2nd time but also no tracking # this time either.
ANYways..
I tried re-wicking my Billow with Rayon/Cellucotton this time instead of KGD pads - and also left a bit more wick, and did the wick-tuck method this time instead of just trimming the ends right up against the top of the juice channels/deck. The tails are covering most of the area around the air-slots, but not too much wick.
This is with NO AFC Screws screwed into the bottom.
So I only filled it about half way with about 70-80% VG
I let it sit about 5 minutes. No leaking so I took a few puffs - man this thing hits just as good as my RDA, and the flavor is REALLY popping!! 0.4ohm dual 26g micro coils @ about 35w on my IPV3 is amazing!
So I let it sit for another 15min or so, taking a puff here and there. And, NO Leaking!!
I had to leave so I turned it upside for a few hours. Just got back. And I let it sit slightly tilted, for about 20minutes each on each side.
And still, NO Leaking!!! I'm stoked. About to fill her up completely, and see how it goes.
I've been without the Billow for 2 weeks. It is my 1st RTA, and I only got to vape 1 tank before losing the screws. And I got the leaking to stop, even with NO AFC SCREWS!
Awesome!!
ANYways..
I tried re-wicking my Billow with Rayon/Cellucotton this time instead of KGD pads - and also left a bit more wick, and did the wick-tuck method this time instead of just trimming the ends right up against the top of the juice channels/deck. The tails are covering most of the area around the air-slots, but not too much wick.
This is with NO AFC Screws screwed into the bottom.
So I only filled it about half way with about 70-80% VGI let it sit about 5 minutes. No leaking so I took a few puffs - man this thing hits just as good as my RDA, and the flavor is REALLY popping!! 0.4ohm dual 26g micro coils @ about 35w on my IPV3 is amazing!
So I let it sit for another 15min or so, taking a puff here and there. And, NO Leaking!!
I had to leave so I turned it upside for a few hours. Just got back. And I let it sit slightly tilted, for about 20minutes each on each side.
And still, NO Leaking!!! I'm stoked. About to fill her up completely, and see how it goes.
I've been without the Billow for 2 weeks. It is my 1st RTA, and I only got to vape 1 tank before losing the screws. And I got the leaking to stop, even with NO AFC SCREWS!
Awesome!!
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