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Edit to add: I just noticed what time it is in Greece. PM me tomorrow when you get a chance
I saw your post about the dna cradle you designed. Is it working ok for you and what type of enclosures have you used it in.
Thanks
Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions
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I saw your post about the dna cradle you designed. Is it working ok for you and what type of enclosures have you used it in.
Thanks
rhelton, if you're referring to the cradle I designed for the fasttech enclosure, it works perfectly
Yah thats it, it looks real good I am getting ideas for my next build and happened upon it.
I picked up a couple for a fasttech enclosure and they have nice snug fit, perfect size and a real nice design. No filing or sanding they are a perfect fit.
well my enclosure should be here tomorrow. time to build my dna 40d i have fdv 510 drill tap lots of guages of silicone wire fast set epoxy magnifying head set dna board and charger i think thats it. oh and sanjosse's screen cradle i think im all set for the build
That sucks, but for the price I wouldn't be too upset. I assume that over time my enclosure will get some scratches too. Has anyone spray painted his enclosure yet? Do you have to sand it down or is cleaning it enough?
mackman, the one in the image I posted was the basic "White Strong & Flexible". I like it because it's a little rough which gives it a little grip on the interior walls of the bay. Plus it was the lest expensive
So far, I've built two DNA30 mods using the FastTech enclosure and I use a completely different method for aligning and securing the screen and DNA module. What I use is 2mm thick foam with adhesive backing, which is available at craft stores in standard sheets. Using thin cut strips, I create a tight mold form to hold the acrylic plate securely. Then, before removing the protective plastic from the acrylic plate, I insert the plate and mark the outline of the enclosure screen opening. Removing the protective plastic from the back side, I position the screen and secure it using kapton tape.
At this point, I use the foam to create a form to hold the module itself. When I'm finished, the screen and module is properly positioned and held firmly in place by the foam. Though I don't think it's really necessary, for added security I put just a dab of hot glue on one edge of the module. I find this method to be a clean, simple, and very effective way to place and secure the DNA30, without having to use epoxy. Of course, epoxy is necessary to secure the tactile buttons and charge board, but I've already had one bad experience with a DNA module that went bad after installation - and, unfortunately, I had used epoxy to secure it. Using the foam, if something does go wrong, the module is easily removed without further damage to the board. BTW, a small square of foam on the back of the charging board positions it perfectly.
On both my builds, I chose to use the Fat Daddy 510 and a 12mm push button for the fire button. I did not use the wire included with this enclosure, and used solid copper 24awg for the buttons, stranded 22awg for the charge board, and stranded 20awg for the battery and 510 connections. I found the FT DIY DNA enclosure of very good quality and easy to work with.
At this point, I use the foam to create a form to hold the module itself. When I'm finished, the screen and module is properly positioned and held firmly in place by the foam. Though I don't think it's really necessary, for added security I put just a dab of hot glue on one edge of the module. I find this method to be a clean, simple, and very effective way to place and secure the DNA30, without having to use epoxy. Of course, epoxy is necessary to secure the tactile buttons and charge board, but I've already had one bad experience with a DNA module that went bad after installation - and, unfortunately, I had used epoxy to secure it. Using the foam, if something does go wrong, the module is easily removed without further damage to the board. BTW, a small square of foam on the back of the charging board positions it perfectly.
On both my builds, I chose to use the Fat Daddy 510 and a 12mm push button for the fire button. I did not use the wire included with this enclosure, and used solid copper 24awg for the buttons, stranded 22awg for the charge board, and stranded 20awg for the battery and 510 connections. I found the FT DIY DNA enclosure of very good quality and easy to work with.
I would really like to see pictures of this method, sounds a lot more simple than what I was planning.
@sanjosse
Going to grab one of your cradles from shapeways (thanks for making them available!) any chance you would be willing to sell/open the 'beta' charger cradle so i could try one out?
I know you haven't finished refining it so obv would be disappointed if it doesn't work and would be happy to give feedback.
Either way, thanks again!
Going to grab one of your cradles from shapeways (thanks for making them available!) any chance you would be willing to sell/open the 'beta' charger cradle so i could try one out?
I know you haven't finished refining it so obv would be disappointed if it doesn't work and would be happy to give feedback.
Either way, thanks again!
@ airkaos
It really is clean and simple, but since most of the foam form factor is beneath the module you can't see how it's done in pics of a completed mod. If I was currently building one I'd be happy to provide pics. I just completed a SX350 mod, with semi-fixed 18650 battery, using this foam method in a Hammond 1550ABK box. I will be building more mods in the future and when I start the next one, I'll try to remember to get some pics.
In the meantime, if you go to a local craft store and pick up a sheet of this 2mm adhesive backed foam board, I really believe you can figure it out by just playing with it. The 8.5"x11" sheet I bought was dirt cheap and, after 3 mod builds, I still have most of it - so it's no real loss if it doesn't work for you.
It really is clean and simple, but since most of the foam form factor is beneath the module you can't see how it's done in pics of a completed mod. If I was currently building one I'd be happy to provide pics. I just completed a SX350 mod, with semi-fixed 18650 battery, using this foam method in a Hammond 1550ABK box. I will be building more mods in the future and when I start the next one, I'll try to remember to get some pics.
In the meantime, if you go to a local craft store and pick up a sheet of this 2mm adhesive backed foam board, I really believe you can figure it out by just playing with it. The 8.5"x11" sheet I bought was dirt cheap and, after 3 mod builds, I still have most of it - so it's no real loss if it doesn't work for you.
Hey friends,
I just uploaded a beta Evolv USB Charger Cradle for the FastTech enclosure on shapeways.com, and have order one for testing. If all goes well, I'll start offering them for the masses.
Here's the link for those interested; https://www.shapeways.com/model/2802430/evolv-usb-charger-cradle-v1.html?li=shop-results&materialId=100
Stay tuned
I ordered one of your cradles and was just curious as to when these will be available....Thanks
TruckinMan,
My prototype is scheduled to ship this Thursday, so I should receive it by this coming Monday. I'll then dry-fit it, and make any needed adjustments. So the earliest I could open it up would be the next Tuesday.
I hope that it's not too much of a wait for those that are interest
Thank you very much for the tips Kristofer. I ordered an enclosure from ft on the 27th and I got it today, so now just waiting for the board and am gonna give it try, to see if I can do it your way, sounds easy enough.
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