Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions

[tchavei]

I hope so. My vendor had some Chinese ones at half the price but the base metal was aluminum. Back then I was a little obsessed with connectors as I had burned a pair of deans in a very expensive mod (too much amps) and at the time I ordered hundreds of gold connectors (2, 3, 4 and 5mm) to replace the connectors on my entire fleet. I replaced everything with EC3 style ones. Never had a problem again.

They were a pain to solder though until I bought a 250w soldering iron

Regards
Tony

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[KTMRider]

I hope so. My vendor had some Chinese ones at half the price but the base metal was aluminum. Back then I was a little obsessed with connectors as I had burned a pair of deans in a very expensive mod (too much amps) and at the time I ordered hundreds of gold connectors (2, 3, 4 and 5mm) to replace the connectors on my entire fleet. I replaced everything with EC3 style ones. Never had a problem again.

They were a pain to solder though until I bought a 250w soldering iron

Regards
Tony

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The ones I linked are gold plated brass.

 

[tchavei]

They should be great then

Regards
Tony

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[KTMRider]

Authentic Hana Modz mini 30w is $99 now. Blems are $79. $179 for the v3 DNA40.

 

[Spiceman1967]

Got home late last night after softball practice to find a couple of Clouper enclosures and some new C&K switches waiting for me in my mailbox. I think these will be slated for a couple of the big screen DNA40s.

 

[Speedometerman]

Data Sheet now available for the NEW DNA 25!

http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna25.pdf

 

[tchavei]

I'll pass, thank you

Regards
Tony

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[aldenf]

Anyone have any experience with 1A+ charging boards in the CHANA boxes?

Is there one that fits?

Thanks!

 

[Duffloop]

Anyone have any experience with 1A+ charging boards in the CHANA boxes?

Is there one that fits?

Thanks!

there's a 700mah one that i've used

Micro USB 700 mAh Charger

but not sure if some of the chips - eg DNA 40 - limits the charge to 500mah anyway

 

[tchavei]

The dna 40 can't limit the charge because it isn't aware of it in the first place. The charging points on the board are directly connected to the power holes.

You could connect the charging board directly to the battery wires and it would make no difference.

Regards
Tony

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[aldenf]

The dna 40 can't limit the charge because it isn't aware of it in the first place. The charging points on the board are directly connected to the power holes.

You could connect the charging board directly to the battery wires and it would make no difference.

Regards
Tony

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Thanks, Tony! I understand the wiring process. I was wondering if there is a 1A+ charging board that will fit the CHANA boxes comfortably...

 

[MattB101]

Thanks, Tony! I understand the wiring process. I was wondering if there is a 1A+ charging board that will fit the CHANA boxes comfortably...

I think the YiHi 1 amp charging board would probably fit. It almost as small as the Evolve charging board. I think A to Z vaping carries them.

Sent while sitting on my busted ..... Stay off the ice if you can't skate. I can't and didn't.

 

[AnsonJames]

http://www.modmaker.co.uk/Mod-Making-Supplies/charge reboard/Micro-USB-700-mAh-Charger
Not quite 1 amp but a little better, and smaller I think.
These are on eBay too sometimes.

 

[drmarble]

I have an ebay 1amp charger (actually 10 for $7.50 shipped). There are several places selling similarly sized and priced ones. Mine has the blue charged led. It definitely won't fit in a chana box. They work fine in hammond and other boxes but the space just isn't there in the chana boxes.

 

[DennyMK]

The trick is to put two drops of loctite 243 or similar (thread locker) NOT on the threads but under the 22mm plate, half way between the edge and the center... It won't move again unless you warm it up and break the seal.

Thread locker is nothing more than anaerobic glue.

Blue = vibration resistant, will break seal with normal tool

Green = strong, will require moderate amount of force and some heat

Red = super strong, will require a blow torch and you'll probably destroy the part before removal possible

Blue is enough for our application. I use 243 because it's oil resistant. The others require pre cleaning with alcohol.



Regards
Tony

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Ok, I've de-soldered the board, changed the wires, (used a phone wire for the charger, and tactile switches which was a BIG mistake in my opinion; use silicone if you can) and re-soldered everything back as it should be. Now, I was looking for thread locker glue but couldn't find it in my town. I have 2 options to fix the FDV connector: Epoxy and Super glue. Which option would you recommend me for fixing the FDV low profile permanently?
By the way I used DIY HANNA MODZ BOX CASE / ( with DNA Chip Holder / Cradle) and the positive contact of FVD is too long for this enclosure cause it hits the sled. I filed the plastic sled plus the exes lower part of the FDV positive contact. Now the only problem for me is to fix the FDV to the enclosure permanently.
Excuse my English, cause I'm slightly frustrated at the moment.

Here is a HD pic of it: http://zupimages.net/up/15/09/s8h3.jpg

 

[tchavei]

Nice job

I would use two drops of epoxy and let it cure for a day or so. I would also use a sharp pin to make a few cuts on the surface beneath the connector and under the connector itself (or even use a dremel wheel) and clean it with alcohol to get a rugged clean surface. It shouldn't break ever again.

I wouldn't use superglue just because of the risk of the fume / haze that sometimes forms around the glue point and which is easy to see on dark surfaces but hard to remove without scratching the anodizing.

Regards
Tony

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[DennyMK]

Nice job

I would use two drops of epoxy and let it cure for a day or so. I would also use a sharp pin to make a few cuts on the surface beneath the connector and under the connector itself (or even use a dremel wheel) and clean it with alcohol to get a rugged clean surface. It shouldn't break ever again.

I wouldn't use superglue just because of the risk of the fume / haze that sometimes forms around the glue point and which is easy to see on dark surfaces but hard to remove without scratching the anodizing.

Regards
Tony

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Thank you very much. I should do that for the battery holder as well. Will post finished project when it's done.

 

[airkaos]

Ok, I've de-soldered the board, changed the wires, (used a phone wire for the charger, and tactile switches which was a BIG mistake in my opinion; use silicone if you can) and re-soldered everything back as it should be.

Be careful I think you need thicker wire for the charger, phone wire will not be enough, it has to be minimum 26 and maximum 20 gauge.

 

[tchavei]

24 would be good for 500mah which is what the charging board can draw

Regards
Tony

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[DennyMK]

I think it's not thiner than 23 gauge as it goes inside a syringe needle of 20 gauge (yellow) and it's snug. According to this chart it is 23 gauge: