Anyone else has the problems with the DNA40 screen? I've injected silicon below the screen cable but the problems with screen garling and blinking persist.
Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions
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I just put a little wad of epoxy between the ribbon and board and folded it around. No more issues...
I just picked up a couple of Sanjosse cradles at Shapeways. Can't wait to try them out with the two dna 40s I have. Of course I will have to remove the side rails, but the was the plan all along.
Spiceman1967, Thank you for sure. Please let me know if you come across any build issues or if you have any suggestions
You got it Sanjosse. I am still waiting on the Hana enclosures to get here, so may be a week or two before I start the build. Man I hate waiting on China to ship
I'm in the same boat. I ordered enclosures from FT over 2weeks ago and they just recently shipped. So maybe anothe week or so until I get them. But I'm not in any rush. I also ordered 3 DNA40's that'll probably take a few more weeks to get here.
Yeah my second case I ordered shipped recently too! I can say they are definitely worth the wait, they look awesome. The buttons and battery case are also working fine.
I just found this useful pdf document describing installing a dna40 into a fastech hana modz case. Thought I'd share the information:
http://www.madhatters.com.au/DNA40_Install_in_a_FT_Hana_Enclosure.pdf
I hope someone finds this useful.
http://www.madhatters.com.au/DNA40_Install_in_a_FT_Hana_Enclosure.pdf
I hope someone finds this useful.
Hey friends,
I just uploaded a beta Evolv USB Charger Cradle for the FastTech enclosure on shapeways.com, and have order one for testing. If all goes well, I'll start offering them for the masses.
Here's the link for those interested; https://www.shapeways.com/model/2802430/evolv-usb-charger-cradle-v1.html?li=shop-results&materialId=100
Stay tuned …
I just uploaded a beta Evolv USB Charger Cradle for the FastTech enclosure on shapeways.com, and have order one for testing. If all goes well, I'll start offering them for the masses.
Here's the link for those interested; https://www.shapeways.com/model/2802430/evolv-usb-charger-cradle-v1.html?li=shop-results&materialId=100
Stay tuned …
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Sanjosse the usb board looks promising cant wait to get a couple
anyone know the tap size for the fatdaddyvapes 510 connector. im sure its been mentioned in this thread and did a few searches but found nothing.
anyone know the tap size for the fatdaddyvapes 510 connector. im sure its been mentioned in this thread and did a few searches but found nothing.
dougward1960,
Thanks
Tap: 10mm-1
Vermont American 21140 10MM-1.00 High Carbon Steel Metric Spark Plug Tap - - Amazon.com
Drill bit size: 23/64"
moresalt thank you
thanks Sanjosse
dougward1960,
Thanks
Tap: 10mm-1
Vermont American 21140 10MM-1.00 High Carbon Steel Metric Spark Plug Tap - - Amazon.com
Drill bit size: 23/64"
thanks Sanjosse
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Hey sanjosse, I have a couple of your board cradles on the way, will let you know how they work for me when I finally get to use them. Thanks many for sharing.
And info for anyone threading their case for FD or Varitube connectors.
Varitube is M10x0.5, rule of thumb says drill diameter minus pitch, means 9.5mm (.374016). Standard drills in that range : U=.368, 3/8"=.375
FD is m10x1.0, so 9mm (.35433). Standard drills closest : S=.348, T=.358
And info for anyone threading their case for FD or Varitube connectors.
Varitube is M10x0.5, rule of thumb says drill diameter minus pitch, means 9.5mm (.374016). Standard drills in that range : U=.368, 3/8"=.375
FD is m10x1.0, so 9mm (.35433). Standard drills closest : S=.348, T=.358
I think 9.5mm drill for M10 is too big. I'm no expert at all though but I think you'll get shallow threads. I read you're supposed to use 8.5 for M10 but I *think* I used 9mm in the end and I could just cut the hole bigger with the tap.
Hi Dejay,
What was the pitch of the tap you were using? It is accepted as proper practice to use the rule I stated above. If you were using a M10x1.0, then 9.5mm would indeed be too big. But pitch is everything when sizing a hole for a tap. M10 means that the "peaks" of the threaded cylinder are 10mm. 1.0 pitch means that the "groove" being cut travels 1mm per rotation. The angle of the valley cut is fairly standard, so that to make use of all available material without reducing the outside diameter means that course pitches will need a smaller drill than the same diameter fine pitch. I think what I just said makes sense and is true. Please forgive if not.
What was the pitch of the tap you were using? It is accepted as proper practice to use the rule I stated above. If you were using a M10x1.0, then 9.5mm would indeed be too big. But pitch is everything when sizing a hole for a tap. M10 means that the "peaks" of the threaded cylinder are 10mm. 1.0 pitch means that the "groove" being cut travels 1mm per rotation. The angle of the valley cut is fairly standard, so that to make use of all available material without reducing the outside diameter means that course pitches will need a smaller drill than the same diameter fine pitch. I think what I just said makes sense and is true. Please forgive if not.
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Ah right, that makes sense. Like I said I don't know what exactly is needed for a drill (the varitube 510 needs a extra fine M10x0.5 tap) but I think I drilled 9mm and had to shave off a little bit more with the head of the tap. Since it's soft aluminum it worked fine. Didn't even have a proper vice but jerry-rigged something.
wa9w00d, Sure thing. The DNAx board can only be put into the cradle one way. The board section is snapped onto the cradle's side that has the 5 little nubbies (technical term? lol). Then you wrap the ribbon/OLED display over the end that has the rounded edge and adhere the screen into the groove on the back. I used some liquid black tape. It's not permanent and it dries in a couple minutes.
Here's a couple images to help;
Sanjosse you think I can slide the whole thing in a tube? And second do you know if the on board buttons will be easily accessible?wa9w00d, Sure thing. The DNAx board can only be put into the cradle one way. The board section is snapped onto the cradle's side that has the 5 little nubbies (technical term? lol). Then you wrap the ribbon/OLED display over the end that has the rounded edge and adhere the screen into the groove on the back. I used some liquid black tape. It's not permanent and it dries in a couple minutes.
Here's a couple images to help;
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