It can but why would you?
2 of mine had adjustable 510s (little screws)
waste not want not etc...
Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions
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2 of mine had adjustable 510s (little screws)
waste not want not etc...
Hmmm... So, I have completely stripped one of these down and recovered all of the 'hot glue'... I checked and it's about 5g worth... that's the same as 1 long stick or 2 short sticks of hot glue (the diameter I use anyway)... what'd'ya think, should I reuse it? j/k Seriously though, I'm shocked they used so much, 5 grams!
I received my box today even though around noon local time it was still scheduled for Monday delivery... meh, for $5 each, it's OK... but mine did not come looking nice or all fully functional.
So... I have taken one apart and now have a housing that I will rubberize... the symptom on this device was 'check atty' all the time... once I got it apart, I could see that the problem was very poor soldering of the OUT+ connection on the board... de-soldered, cleaned and replaced... and it seems to be working as it should
Correction: While it appeared to be working correctly, it's in fact not working correctly. 0 properly functioning, what I expected when I placed the order. I have three that seem to be working now, except they read the wrong resistance.
Got he begger out!
You're right - after the 1st wack it kinda pops... And I'm left with a dinky adjustable 510 to be used in a tin or somat...
I got my black one working (no display). Actually, I just removed some glue and it came back on but it has a burnt out line on the display running vertically on the digit just before the "W" and the brightness is a bit dimmer but otherwise, working pretty well. It also turns on randomly like the red one but not as often and the wattage setting doesn't change like the red one. Both ohm readings are spot on. I took a closer look at the board from the blue one (had constant "check atomizer") and it looks like a chip burnt out.
I have 3 more coming from Elev8 (black, orange and silver)
I got my black one working (no display). Actually, I just removed some glue and it came back on but it has a burnt out line on the display running vertically on the digit just before the "W" and the brightness is a bit dimmer but otherwise, working pretty well. It also turns on randomly like the red one but not as often and the wattage setting doesn't change like the red one. Both ohm readings are spot on. I took a closer look at the board from the blue one (had constant "check atomizer") and it looks like a chip burnt out.
I have 3 more coming from Elev8 (black, orange and silver)
was it you who found them? brill find!
(i'm just about to solder the DNA....)
I knew about them but every time I checked, they were out of stock so I kinda gave up until someone posted that they had some in stock and I grabbed 3. I got an e-mail Sat afternoon so I went to their site and they had a few more in stock so I ordered 3 more before I posted here.
Good luck with the DNA! Take lots of pics
I knew about them but every time I checked, they were out of stock so I kinda gave up until someone posted that they had some in stock and I grabbed 3. I got an e-mail Sat afternoon so I went to their site and they had a few more in stock so I ordered 3 more before I posted here.
Good luck with the DNA! Take lots of pics
forgot - i gotta get the usb port and a button off dna 30 first (delaying tactics as never soldered a circuit board before ;-)
For those who are using the Sanjosse USB cradles, what are you using to secure them to the Fasttech enclosures? Not so worried about the main board/display cradle, as a little RTV silicone will be more than enough to keep them still, but the USB cradle will obviously see a little more stress
Hot glue!
Maybe some double sided tape? Not sure how it fits so can't say. Seriously, I might just mount mine with hot glue.
I wonder which will take more stress, hot glue, RTV, double sided tape, or epoxy? The cradle basically hugs the bottom round section of the control cavity. Decent amount of surface areaHot glue!
Maybe some double sided tape? Not sure how it fits so can't say. Seriously, I might just mount mine with hot glue.
For a box I'm building for myself, I have no shame in drilling screw holes from the outside and using small hardware to attach (as well as build up supports for the switches), but I'm assembling 2 boxes for friends, and want theirs to have a good clean look to it
RTV is pretty flexible so I probably wouldn't want to use that for the USB. I've only seen pics of the sled but I'd think double sided tape would be too thick unless you got the really thin type like scotch tape. Hot glue is pretty solid but can look messy. Epoxy is permanent.
I wouldn't want external screws on my box mods. I'll probably use Kwik Weld for the buttons and hot glue for the USB on mine (no sled).
You can use hot glue, without it looking like a mess
The reality is that the bulk of the force should be from insertion and removal of the USB cable, and a bit of hot glue should hold that fairly well... if they start wrenching the connector though, I could see it leveraging the board loose... I think the best solution for that is a spacer from the board up to whatever is holding the DNAXX in place.
I don't have a link handy, but there are some sleds for the DNAXX that include a place to screw your charge board in to... the charge board does/should have two screw holes designed in to it for this purpose already.
The reality is that the bulk of the force should be from insertion and removal of the USB cable, and a bit of hot glue should hold that fairly well... if they start wrenching the connector though, I could see it leveraging the board loose... I think the best solution for that is a spacer from the board up to whatever is holding the DNAXX in place.
I don't have a link handy, but there are some sleds for the DNAXX that include a place to screw your charge board in to... the charge board does/should have two screw holes designed in to it for this purpose already.
Been looking at Fire button options - pretty poor selection out there non?
11mm LED button is a bit fat in the back end and the hole really needs to be dropped about 4mm to avoid the FD or VT, making fitting a pain.
The standard mini dome ones are a bit painful. Shame it's not flat topped.
Be great if there was a 9mm one that sat in the case crevice and had a more finger friendly button eh
Any ideas anyone?
11mm LED button is a bit fat in the back end and the hole really needs to be dropped about 4mm to avoid the FD or VT, making fitting a pain.
The standard mini dome ones are a bit painful. Shame it's not flat topped.
Be great if there was a 9mm one that sat in the case crevice and had a more finger friendly button eh
Any ideas anyone?
I was trying out the 12mm button and it's a bit sharp on the edges and with no click, it's not easy to know when it's activated. It's not bad but I prefer the dome switch over it. The button on my VS rDNA 40 is pretty awesome. If only we could find something like that.
yeh i heard the flat top 12mm are like pushing a keyboard button - the raised ones are better - but tooooo big for me..
could probably get china to fabricate a flat top version of the clicky dome - but kinda makes you wonder what the market is for stuff like that, take for example that PVA mod project (er hem;-) 683 funders
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