Can seem to coil for the life of me (PLEASE HELP!!!)

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Bunnykiller

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Im not sure what the guage is, Its pretty thin. Is there a guage that wont work with the device? If not why would it matter?

Does using kanthal matter?

I've done anywhere from 3-8 wraps, on various coils.

Now without further adue, can someone with actual answers and information chime in instead of people trying to sabotage my conversation by emphasizing variables that are unimportant. People are conflating the issue, making it seem like there is ALOT to consider, when the issue is not that complex

you have a short in the topper.
and you really should know what ga wire you are using if you are making your own coils...it makes a huge difference between a working coil and a bad coil.
 

LDS714

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Is the wire sticking through the center post touching the base of the atomizer?

Depending on the size of your wire and the size of the coils you probably need between 8 and 15 wraps to have enough resistance to work on a regulated mod. More wire = more resistance and less wire = less resistance.

So you're either using too little wire or your wire is touching somewhere it shouldn't be.

Break out your multimeter and measure out a length of wire that reads 1.5 ohms or more, then use that much to make your coil.
 

twgbonehead

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I disagree with those who say a multimeter is better than a mod with an ohm indicator. First, the mod lets you test the coil resistance exactly as mounted on the mod. You don't have to correct for a multimeter's internal resistance, and things won't change between when yo measure and when you fire. Second, it's very easy to tell what your mod will read for an open - just take the head off it and try to measure the ohms. The MVP's will say "non", others will give the highest reading they can (i.e. 9.9). I haven't seen one that reads 0 for an open. (Haven't seen all of them, but still...) Also, although these mods won't drive a sub-ohm coil, I've never seen one that won't MEASURE a sub-ohm coil.
 

NealBJr

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I disagree with those who say a multimeter is better than a mod with an ohm indicator. First, the mod lets you test the coil resistance exactly as mounted on the mod. You don't have to correct for a multimeter's internal resistance, and things won't change between when yo measure and when you fire. Second, it's very easy to tell what your mod will read for an open - just take the head off it and try to measure the ohms. The MVP's will say "non", others will give the highest reading they can (i.e. 9.9). I haven't seen one that reads 0 for an open. (Haven't seen all of them, but still...) Also, although these mods won't drive a sub-ohm coil, I've never seen one that won't MEASURE a sub-ohm coil.

There are many factors as to why a multimeter is better in MOST cases than a mod. For one, it's accuracy. Multimeters measure the resistance into the thousanth, most mods measure only to the tenths. It can help diagnose types of wires, since ALL wire has at least some sort of resistance, even if it's miniscule. Multimeters also are more accurate. The ohm meter in a mod has very little electronics in it. The ohms meter in a mod is a good "general" reading, but it is by no means very accurate. They are designed to give a rough "you have ABOUT a 1.2 ohm coil" type of reading. Multimeters also cannot tell if there is a short in the atomizer itself, or a short in the coil. If someone was having a problem building a coil, and kept getting a no resistance reading, the next step would be to take the coil out and see if there is a problem with the atomizer itself. Perhaps a grounding grommit was left out of the manufacturing process.

You are correct in saying it measures what you have when you put it on, and when it fires. That's the good side of it. It shows what resistance IT shows, taking into aco.... the connection in the 510 connector, internal wires, etc. It is a more direct lead to the device. When it comes down to troubleshooting an atomizer that isn't working on the mod, it's best to take the mod out of the equasion and find where the fault is, and a multimeter with test probes is highly recommended.

A great writer once wrote "when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth". Sir Arthur Conan Doyle would've made a great mech pipe modder. :)
 

edyle

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yes on goes through the center post, the other goes through a post on the side. it can be center post right or center post left.

is this right?

As for not wanting to die, sometimes I worry about the regulation of the ecig juice. hopefully there is some sort of regulated safety/contaminant check.

feels wierd seeing someone on here from oceanside. hopefully I don't piss him off and have him come after me. Heh, he probably sold me my ecig

1: Take the wire off.
2: Measure the resistance of the non-coil with your VTR: you should get 9.9 ohm or some error message.
If you get 0, then you have a problem on the dripper itself.
Otherwise:
3: Use a fairly long piece of resistance wire - like 6 inch to a foot or something;
Wrap one end of the wire on the center post; wrap the other end on a side post and ensure the wire isn't touching anything else.
4: Measure the resistance of your wire with the VTR
You should get more than 3 ohms; maybe more than 10 ohms.
 

Hypatia

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1: Take the wire off.
2: Measure the resistance of the non-coil with your VTR: you should get 9.9 ohm or some error message.
If you get 0, then you have a problem on the dripper itself.
Otherwise:
3: Use a fairly long piece of resistance wire - like 6 inch to a foot or something;
Wrap one end of the wire on the center post; wrap the other end on a side post and ensure the wire isn't touching anything else.
4: Measure the resistance of your wire with the VTR
You should get more than 3 ohms; maybe more than 10 ohms.

Yeah, we told him ALL of that great advice already. He won't do it, or questions why we're telling him to do it. He flat out has told us he refuses to test the wire separately for resistance. IMHO, we've given enough of ourselves here.
 

Hypatia

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As a vaper that is about to jump in to rebuildables and a Vamo (they're out for shipping) from 8 months on an Ego Twist with Protanks, I just wanted to thank everyone for taking the time to post some very helpful troubleshooting tips that I'm sure I'll have to employ in the near future.

:toast:

Oh, you're very, very welcome. And WELCOME to ECF! That is exactly the point of our posts. Even if an OP does not care to take our advise, we always know there's 100s of others "out" there watching and learning. I know, because I was one of those lurkers once. I learned SO much before I even became a member here. I am humbled and blessed to be able to share the collective wisdom handed to me from our veteran members. This forum truly is a godsend.
 

girlsdrivetoo

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As a vaper that is about to jump in to rebuildables and a Vamo (they're out for shipping) from 8 months on an Ego Twist with Protanks, I just wanted to thank everyone for taking the time to post some very helpful troubleshooting tips that I'm sure I'll have to employ in the near future.

:toast:

At least SOMEONE has taken something from this post, even if it wasn't the OP
 

brickfollett

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why would the smoke shop sell wire that is non conductive? I am pretty sure the continuity is good. How can my wire have a short in it? I'm arguing that the multimeter isn't going to tell me something that I dont already know. My device is either not reading it from below threshold resistance or the resistance is that low. How can I increase the resistance of my coil? and thicker guages cause more or less? and the larger the guage the smaller diameter, correct?


What specifically is it that leads to a lot of trouble helping newbs who have no experience to understand what is "happening"
What specifically do you mean by happening? I hope people don't judge me and want me to die because I smoke and they think im stupid. Einstein smoked, and he was a genius!

:toast: from Oceanside

Certain devices require non resistance wire to be joined to resistance wire. The Ithaka is a good example of this, and some people do this with the diver too. I believe a stock Protank coil is non resistance joined to resistance. It's so you can transfer the electricity a distance without creating heat where it isn't necessary, if that makes sense
 
IT IS GOOD to see that all of the electronics I have learned over the years are still applicable, and that troubleshooting is 1000 times faster and easier with the proper tools in hand before starting the task.

Another things I was taught from a an early age (3-5yrs depending on the teacher) was trouble shoot from one end to the other, you can often make a pretty educated guess which end to start at, sometimes either end is equally good, etc. but even if you pick the end farthest from the problem, you will still be miles ahead starting at an end than in the middle where you think the problem is.

My grandfather also taught me to fix every problem I found, even if it was not "the fix"(tm) because it would prevent you from needing to go back later and fix what you let slide by.

That being said, a lucky person who can hit the right spot in the middle is faster but for most of us, even experienced, mortals that happens infrequently enough as to be about the same as winning the lottery.
 

Razzlematt

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My SmokTech SID will give me an error message on my newly built coils with 28 gauge Kanthal, but not 32 gauge.

Testing with my good ohm meter, I see a reading of just sub-one ohm, which is below the low threshhold of the SID. By using the ohm-meter, I've found that I either need to use these coils on my mechanical mod and/or increase resistance, by adding coils or making larger diameter coils for use on the SID.

Multimeters are cool.
 

Botomline

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I just poked about half an inch of wire through the tip of my thumb. Ouch!

Each time I try to send my coil through, 1 leg through post on either side, 1 post in the middle, I always get 0.0 resistance

I cannot wire a coil and get anything but a resistance of 0.0, what the heck! Can someone please clue me in as to what I may be doing wrong?

Might be an issue with your unit too. Make sure the posts are isolated and not shorting inside the the base.
 

Botomline

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Where did you get the wire? What kind of wire is it?

My brother in law decided to try building a coil for an rba without consulting any educational resources or asking any questions. He kept getting 0.0 resistance and popping coils on the first press of the button. Turns out he was using the wires from twist ties like you see on bags of bread :facepalm:

Help us help you. Give us some details about the materials you are using or at least where you got them.

LOLOLOLOL Takes all kinds doesn't it?
 

Dj tank

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