I just built a 26G 2.5mm kanthal spaced coil on my Berserker Mini v2 and the ohms are .70 and I'm using 18mg eliquid. So my question is if there is anything wrong with this setup if I'm vaping it at 10 watts or less? Right now I'm vaping it at only 6 watts. Do people also use Subohm coils for MTL? I know 28G is more recommended so it's not Subohm but I think my coil will last longer. Thanks in advance for your input.
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Never mind I can already see the negative results I'm getting with this setup and bad flavor, bad ramp up time, no wonder it's not recommended.
I'm a bit confused by your question. I don't think the hardware cares about your nic levels, you just have to meet the requirements for the battery, mod, coil, etc. to vape safely.
As far as the nic levels and the vaping experience, I think it depends on your own taste and tolerances. I'm currently using original Berserker mini's with both plus and sub ohm coils in them. When I switched to rebuildables, I dropped from 18mg down to 6 mg juices and found that the nico-demons were happy with the drop compared to my older tech atomisers and Blu tanks. I consider myself to be a tootlepuffer, and run these between 6 and 10 watts, with the 1.2 coils at the 6W and the .7 coils at 10W. At the time I switched, I had heard that you could drop your nic levels with the more efficient rebuildables compared to the old tech coils.
Some of my flavors are better with the .7 setup and others are better with the 1.2's. My coils last pretty long compared to the drop ins, but some flavors gunk the coils faster than others. YMMV.
As far as the nic levels and the vaping experience, I think it depends on your own taste and tolerances. I'm currently using original Berserker mini's with both plus and sub ohm coils in them. When I switched to rebuildables, I dropped from 18mg down to 6 mg juices and found that the nico-demons were happy with the drop compared to my older tech atomisers and Blu tanks. I consider myself to be a tootlepuffer, and run these between 6 and 10 watts, with the 1.2 coils at the 6W and the .7 coils at 10W. At the time I switched, I had heard that you could drop your nic levels with the more efficient rebuildables compared to the old tech coils.
Some of my flavors are better with the .7 setup and others are better with the 1.2's. My coils last pretty long compared to the drop ins, but some flavors gunk the coils faster than others. YMMV.
Yeah... If your Watts are 10 Watts or less, 26ga wire is a Tad Thick.
How does it Perform when you Up the Watts a bit?
For us that use vape mods with chips in them we dont care about the resistance cause the mod with do its thing to give us the wattage we want
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but we care about the mass and the surface area of the coil in order to match the with the airflow we vape and get the vapor in the temperature we like and in the amount we want thats why high nicotine juices usually are vaped in high resistances and so smaller coils with thin wires xause u dont want lot of vapor production when u use high nic.......whatever the resistance is u shouldnt care as long as u like the vape u are getting from it...
Ofc tho thr bigger coil the more the power it needs to work and the more vapor u will get ofc....
Hit it at 15watts
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but we care about the mass and the surface area of the coil in order to match the with the airflow we vape and get the vapor in the temperature we like and in the amount we want thats why high nicotine juices usually are vaped in high resistances and so smaller coils with thin wires xause u dont want lot of vapor production when u use high nic.......whatever the resistance is u shouldnt care as long as u like the vape u are getting from it...
Ofc tho thr bigger coil the more the power it needs to work and the more vapor u will get ofc....
Hit it at 15watts
"subohm vaping" merely means you are vaping a coil that has less than 1 ohm resistance. It doesn't mean you are a DL vaper or a cloud chaser, though typically, during the cloud-chasing clearomizer craze of 2015-2017, the vast majority of subohm vapers were cloud chasers. Today even MTLers are using subohm coils.
Gauge of wire has nothing to do with "subohm". Subohm means "less than 1 ohm", at least in the vaping world. You can achieve "subohm" resistance values both 26g and 28g wire.
The reason people tell you to use 28g wire is because at such low wattage (6-10W) your ramp up time will be very long, as well as your cooldown time. As a 20-25W vaper, I no longer use 26g wire because rampup and cooldown are really slow and it gets on my frigging nerves. 28g isn't so thin that it's hard to work with. Some people say it is but that's not my experience.
Also, I would argue that your wick will have a longer life with 28g over 26g due to faster cooldown time.
I agree with others; power sounds a little low for that coil.
I've run 0.75 ohm coils MTL for many years. Mine are twisted 3x30, which is electrically real close to 26, but has more surface area. I run them on single-cell mech squonkers. So that's a theoretical 23.5 watts from a full battery, but of course that never actually happens on a mech; there's voltage sag in the battery, and voltage drop in the conductor and contacts. Realistically, it's in the mid to upper teens.
For years I've considered myself a "low energy vaper" where I try to squeeze the maximum amount of battery life out of a charge.
In my experience battery life equates to amount of power needed for acceptable heat up times. The less mass the coil has, the less power needed to heat it up and the faster it heats up.
I'll vape anything from 7-50mg on very similar rigs but with different air flows and usage patterns.
It seems that sometimes I just want a "puff" every now and then and other times I feel like playing weather patterns.
g.
In my experience battery life equates to amount of power needed for acceptable heat up times. The less mass the coil has, the less power needed to heat it up and the faster it heats up.
I'll vape anything from 7-50mg on very similar rigs but with different air flows and usage patterns.
It seems that sometimes I just want a "puff" every now and then and other times I feel like playing weather patterns.
g.
With 26 gauge you may need a couple/few more watts I would think, but it's a fine MTL coil.. use whatever nicotine level floats your boat...
There is a historical obsession with resistance/Ohms. When mods were little more than a battery, power flow was determined by resistance. Getting that to work with the actual size of the coil was the trick. With power regulation and converters, power is independent of resistance over a wide range (mods have some limits). For the most part, wire size is just one factor in determining how "big" the coil is. You can make a small coil with fairly thick wire and a large one with lots of thin wire. There is an advantage to thinner wire in that it has less mass compared to its surface area, but #26 is not so thick to be particularly slow. However, even with only .7 ohms of it, that's a big coil for 6 watts.
Note that if you take the usual 1.3 ohm #28 Kanthal coil and wind it with stainless steel instead, you'll get about .8 ohms but it still acts almost exactly the same in power mode. But on a mech mod or in "bypass" mode, it would be completely different.
Note that if you take the usual 1.3 ohm #28 Kanthal coil and wind it with stainless steel instead, you'll get about .8 ohms but it still acts almost exactly the same in power mode. But on a mech mod or in "bypass" mode, it would be completely different.
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