a lot of people like mech mods and all the things that come with them. so for them, 40 years at 100% = 40 years. {MODERATED}
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why are you subohming on a regulated device?
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a lot of people like mech mods and all the things that come with them. so for them, 40 years at 100% = 40 years. {MODERATED}
Ahem...
I said before, and I'll say it one last time. The topic of this thread is not mechs vs. regulated. We don't need more of that crap, as evidenced above. The topic pertains to sub-ohming on regulated devices.
Do not go off topic again please. Any more shenanigans will result in action(s) taken, and thread closure.
I said before, and I'll say it one last time. The topic of this thread is not mechs vs. regulated. We don't need more of that crap, as evidenced above. The topic pertains to sub-ohming on regulated devices.
Do not go off topic again please. Any more shenanigans will result in action(s) taken, and thread closure.
60 watts is what I want. 60 watts at any ohms you'd like. If you can hit right around that sweet spot I'll vary my build as required. 30 watts? Hits like it's on training wheels. 50 watts? Almost, so close all I can taste is what I'm missing. 100 watts? Too damn hot for me. Honestly, if someone made an 18650 or 26650 tube mod that was pretty and would reliably hit 60 watts I'd be done searching for a device that performed the way I wanted and didn't look like a rejected design for a computer case from the 90's. I don't care about ohms, I care about the vape.
At the same power, less mass heats up quicker. Resistance itself has nothing to do with it.
The http://www.pimodz.com/vw-mods.html is not a tube mod but it is attractive and has exquisitely precise machining. The SX350 chip used in the Andromeda has the heavier wiring that can be upgraded to 60 watts.
Only when using the same gauge wire. You can get very fast heat ramp up using higher oHms and thinner (higher gauge) wire. The time can be so quick as to need a larger diameter coil to allow for a bit more wicking.
Thanks, but whatever that thing is, it's definitely not a tube mod.
Not a tube mod but not ugly and about as small as possible for the power.
not necessarily true. and at some point you wont even be able to tell the difference. i challenge any subohmer using a regulated device to try building the highest they can still being able to reach max wattage and compare it to the lowest. i promise you if you know how to build the higher resistance build will provide better experience
Using 26 gauge wire or heavier I would guess that most people would notice a difference in how quickly a .3Ω coil versus a 3Ω coil heats up.
No one knows what another person would consider to be a superior vaping experience unless you have personally tried vapes they like and don't like.
The happy thing about regulated devices that will support subohm builds is that they all have a generous regulated space in which to play. That way people can try a lot of different builds from subohm to high ohm using different gauge wires and diameter of coils to see what works best for them.
No one knows what another person would consider to be a superior vaping experience unless you have personally tried vapes they like and don't like.
The happy thing about regulated devices that will support subohm builds is that they all have a generous regulated space in which to play. That way people can try a lot of different builds from subohm to high ohm using different gauge wires and diameter of coils to see what works best for them.
Can't help but find it a bit funny how so few seem to understand FatherTimes question but jump to the defensive nonetheless. It's not about dissing sub-ohming. It's more about the freedom of not having to build low resistance coils. It's not about dissing cloud chasing or mechs. It's more about new possibilities and looking at them in a new way.
I'm sure some clever head will come up with ways to fully utilize these new mods. My guess is it won't be microcoils due to their concentrated heat. Only works up to a certain point before you have to drastically improve wicking... or like it is (with some setups) today; use inefficiently thick wire to allow the metal to take the edge off the high wattage. More metal to heat - less liquids heated per watt-hour spent. There's a golden middle road, and I'm sure someone will find it. These new mods should be better tools for looking for it. Less constraints - more possibilities.
I'm sure some clever head will come up with ways to fully utilize these new mods. My guess is it won't be microcoils due to their concentrated heat. Only works up to a certain point before you have to drastically improve wicking... or like it is (with some setups) today; use inefficiently thick wire to allow the metal to take the edge off the high wattage. More metal to heat - less liquids heated per watt-hour spent. There's a golden middle road, and I'm sure someone will find it. These new mods should be better tools for looking for it. Less constraints - more possibilities.
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Sure, but using the same size wire, the 3 ohm coil has 10 times the mass of the 0.3 ohm coil. Why would anyone build a 3 ohm coil from 26 gauge (or heavier) wire? Isn't it obvious that, at the same wattage, a coil with more mass will take longer to heat up than a coil with less mass?
Personally, I like coils that don't heat up either too fast or too slow. My experience is that if they have too little mass, they get poppy and spitty and I don't like that. To much mass and they're just plain sluggish.
Agreed, different people like different vapes.
Yep! A regulated mod gives you MUCH more flexibility in terms of how you build, and it makes deep sub-ohm builds rather unnecessary. Some people would even say they are undesirable. However, people know how to make sub-ohm builds that work, and of course they will work just as well on a regulated mod capable of driving them as they would on a mech. What they don't have is a lot of experience building for high-wattage regulated mods. Think about it; mechs have been around "forever" but the DNA-30 was only introduced this yeah, and regulated mods capable of going 50 watts or higher have only been common for a few months. I suspect that as high-powered regulated mods gain popularity, people will figure out how to optimize builds for them.
Let's see you push on a "button" to give power to a device while using a mech. On a regulated, you push a "button" to give power while using a regulated device.
Not sure I see the difference.
Yeah mech mods are anything but simple. There's a rather large learning curve. I would say that a regulated device with a built in battery is the most simple device, albeit far from simple on the inside.
If you want to gauge simplicity as how the device itself works, then you are getting away from simplicity itself. It's more complicated to break everything down to study its guts and see how it works. A built in battery regulated variable wattage mod is super simple to use. You set the power and vape. That's it.
If you want to gauge simplicity as how the device itself works, then you are getting away from simplicity itself. It's more complicated to break everything down to study its guts and see how it works. A built in battery regulated variable wattage mod is super simple to use. You set the power and vape. That's it.
That being said, I'm not claiming one is superior. I like both equally. Just saying that despite the apparent simplicity of mechs, they are in fact much more complicated to use.
I like mechs because I've destroyed every regulated mod I've ever had within 2 months >_> I'm too clumsy. Onboard computers don't work for me. In fact, I just killed my SID. I'm getting a short reading 50% of the time and I know darn well my coil doesn't have a short; it's something wrong with the device. So back to mechs for me, where there's nothing to fry.
I don't subohm all the time. Even most of the time I'd say. In fact I hardly ever even use a RDA. I either pop a factory 1 ohm coil into my aerotank, or use my RBA clone at about 1.5. I had a lot of trouble with flooding and leaks with my kayfun clone at first....and then I figured out to fill it through the screw hole and not the top. No problems since. It's my go to device.
Now yes carrying all of my hardware to make vaping on a mechanical safe is a bit of a pain (multimeter and ohm reader), but no more so than constantly having to fiddle with a regulated mod that doesn't want to work properly. Honestly I check a coil before I use it, pop a cheap little fuse on the end of my battery, and feel pretty safe with my mod. Pop the coil on an ohm reader if I'm ever suspect of the device. Not really a big deal as long as you're aware of what you're doing.
I don't subohm all the time. Even most of the time I'd say. In fact I hardly ever even use a RDA. I either pop a factory 1 ohm coil into my aerotank, or use my RBA clone at about 1.5. I had a lot of trouble with flooding and leaks with my kayfun clone at first....and then I figured out to fill it through the screw hole and not the top. No problems since. It's my go to device.
Now yes carrying all of my hardware to make vaping on a mechanical safe is a bit of a pain (multimeter and ohm reader), but no more so than constantly having to fiddle with a regulated mod that doesn't want to work properly. Honestly I check a coil before I use it, pop a cheap little fuse on the end of my battery, and feel pretty safe with my mod. Pop the coil on an ohm reader if I'm ever suspect of the device. Not really a big deal as long as you're aware of what you're doing.
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REMINDER:
The topic is why are you sub-ohming on a regulated device, nothing about mechs.
The topic is why are you sub-ohming on a regulated device, nothing about mechs.
Theoretically is just that, real life is often different from the theoretical.
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