If these god mods are using 3 - 18650 in series the input voltage would be 12.6 volts on fresh charged batteries. If that is regulated down to 12 volts on a 1.5Ω coil it will produce 96 watts at a very reasonable 8 amps. With a higher input voltage, regulation at a higher output voltage, and lower amperage is possible, and it becomes fairly simple to design the electronics.
why are you subohming on a regulated device?
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If these god mods are using 3 - 18650 in series the input voltage would be 12.6 volts on fresh charged batteries. If that is regulated down to 12 volts on a 1.5Ω coil it will produce 96 watts at a very reasonable 8 amps. With a higher input voltage, regulation at a higher output voltage, and lower amperage is possible, and it becomes fairly simple to design the electronics.
Maintainance of mech mods? Is that a thing? I mean, my I picked up my Nemesis clone last week, after it had been standing there for months, and the vape was a little weak. I noticed that the copper threads on the switch were green, so I screwed the button in and out a couple of times. The threads became shinier, and the vape became A-OK. But then I don't vape at 0.003 Ohms, so I probably don't count. 
cloudminder asked
I replied : 24 gauge coils I expect.
I believe he was thinking in terms of 30 gauge; 1.4 ohm 30 gauge at 50 will POP FIZZZZZ fry scorch some juice and burn out I expect; or maybe it will just BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZTTT
Simple perhaps but unlikely based on past precedence. In any event, it seems likely that a portion of its performance envelope will require a <1 ohm build.
It really doesn't matter whether it does or not, the OP just asked why you might want to do it. There are plenty of existing examples.
Well, you can build a single 2.8 ohm 30 gauge coil that can handle 25 watts, so two of them should handle 50 watts.
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That's true. Good point.
And that takes us right back to the OP.
You could build a coil with 30 gauge; a 5.6 ohm single coil using the same wire as above for 2 2.8 ohm coils, but to put 50 watts on it, you'd need 16 volts!
But the high power mods that are coming out don't seem to cater for that scenario;; I checked a couple that people mentioned; OKR and sigelei100, and in both cases, when looking at the specs it was looking like you'd need at most a 0.7 ohm coil to get the max power;
on the other hand it may be that the spec sheets don't tell everything because the mod might actually output higher voltage in wattage mode if necessary compared to the max voltage specified in vv mode.
mechs offer me the perfect power/size ratio to me.
al regulated devices are huge in my book
al regulated devices are huge in my book
I may be a bit late to the party here, but I'll give you a few good reasons to choose sub-ohming on a mach over a high powered regulated mod. It's the same argument for revolvers over semi-auto, you know it will work. First off fewer parts means that less can go wrong. The chips that make power regulation possible wear out, they break down over time becoming less and less reliable and eventually stops working. They're smaller and lighter, as in more mobile. They're cheaper, a solid mech clone can be had for less than $50.
so lets recap.
1. more difficult to damage
2. more reliable over time
3. more portable and easier to carry
4. more affordable
Ok first sub ohming is not just for mechs. My sx350 diy mod will go to .2 ohms if i chose to. My Dna 30 and IPV v2 will go below 1 ohm if I so chose. So maybe you need to do a little more homework before you make statements like that. As fare as that (oh it's hard to keep my words nice) fellow with the crazy build on an unvented mech you can't fix stupid. That is what they try to with warnings like don't eat on something like a claymore mine. Remember a few years ago folks were stuffing gerbils in places they should not go. So It should not surprise anybody that this happens. I"m surprised it doesn't happen more often. Don't have to take an IQ test to start rebuilding.
Solid state switches are a good deal more reliable than mechanical contacts. That's why everything uses them now.
OH on some regulated mods you have to go lower in the ohms to get the wattage they claim. I can see someone in a cloud contest wanting that. I don't but who are you to judge. I once made fun of sub ohming and cloud chasers. Who cares if it does no harm and it keeps folks off the nasties.
Horsefeathers. Properly designed power electronics do not wear out or break down; they will run for decades with NO degradation in performance.
A mechanical switch, especially one switching substantial DC currents (where there's no zero-cross to extinguish the arc that inevitably forms when the switch opens) will degrade in performance rather quickly. That arcing will reduce the conductivity at the contacts. There's a reason that automotive ignition systems got rid of breaker points as soon as the technology allowed it.
In ideal conditions I would agree with you, however solid state circuitry is very delicate. Moisture, even the humidity in the air can cause it to short out. Dust like pocket lint can weaken the components. Heat from the batteries, or even just a hot day softens the plastic and the solder. Vibration and impact are obvious problems. There is a reason that modern electronics are intended to be disposable.
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Your honor, I'd like to take issue with number 2 here if I may, ...
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2. more reliable over time
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Over what time scale?
Seems to me, that from the moment you pop a fresh battery in both of them, the performance of the mech begins degrading at the first press of the button, until the battery needs to be recharged. With the regulated Mod, the performance stays the same until it's time to recharge.
What does this mean?
The majority of the time either device is being used, the regulated Mod is more reliable for more of that time. At worst, the only timescale where the Mech should win is the lifetime utility of the device, but since every firing of the mech degrades performance, you have a device that spends less time being reliable, but you get to have it be unreliable for a longer time.
If it blinks or beeps, it breaks. I can diagnose any problem on my mechs with a visual inspection and a multimeter and fix 99% of them with a good clean and polish.
That's the point. Properly maintained a mech will continue to work indefinitely. Regulated mods, maybe 5 years.
OK, so, you have this Reg Mod for 5 years, and we will say it gives you consistent performance 99% of the time. While since every discharge of the Mech degrades performance, we will say excellent range is 10% of the time. You might have another 20% at very good, another 30% at good etc.
Now lets say you are 40 years old when you get both, you live to be 80, so you use the Mech until you die, getting 40 years of vaping on it, the Reg you threw away at 45.
Quality vape time.
Reg Mod 5 years at 99% = 4.95 years quality vaping
Mech Mod 40 years at 10% = 4.0 years quality vaping
Hmmmmmmm.
And what if you were to replace your battery terminals every few years, or polish them, or coat them with a conductive jel, or compensate with a different build. I am willing to bet however that the voltage drop would not be noticed for decades.
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maybe they enjoy it when their coils heat up really really fast? why not? i mean, same wattage across the board with different resistance coils isn't much of a difference, but it's a noticable difference. a huge 3 ohm coil is going to take a lot longer to heat up to full power than a .5 coil. just sayin.
also, maybe someone really likes their atty and don't want to have to rebuild it to switch to a mech mod?
also, maybe someone really likes their atty and don't want to have to rebuild it to switch to a mech mod?
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