Catfish Atty Mods the next Chapter

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Chowderhead1972

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Penguiness:

Evidently Yiorgio got the wrong impression... The version one like yours has a drilled 3mm pin that I stepped down to the Native m2.5 to thread into the mid deck, and cross drilled a drain. This method left very little strength in the 510 pin. For every ten I started one maybe 2 were viable. I had to find a better solution. The v2 never saw the light of day it was scrapped before the first one shipped. Version 3 is done similar to the Vector and re-threaded. This one will not over squonk as easily as yours has and will be much stronger as there are no holes bored or cross drilled to weaken the core of the pin. The extra 3mm of tank will also place the air hole and deck that same 3mm higher to further reduce the chance of oversquonking. I have a lot of hours into the Nectar bottom feeding design. I may try a version 4 if the 3 is well received its already blueprinted, I just need to make the tool tho make it work. I have yet to find anything that will help me bisect a m3 with any sort of repeatability. While there aren't as many steps to the nectar as their are when converting the veritas it's just as time consuming.
 
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Chowderhead1972

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Sitting in the low 30's for the CAM-M how many were ya planning on doing?

I have 60 total 5 are spoken for via my demo, a failed engraving sample and 3 for family. I could do more but the likelyhood is slim. To all of those on the list bare in mind this is a true mechanical with huge contacts and the ability to flow copious amount of current as well as juice. Build it low, when the button gets too hot you have gone too far. I'm at .2 currently with almost no heat. That said the contacts are huge but they are not plated or coated this will require maintenance, the harder you push t the more maintenance it will need. I have dead shorted mine quite a few times and got a 25r hot enough to turn the shrink wrap into a pair of high water pants with zero permanent damage. I would reccomend using Samsung 25r batteries if you are pushing below .3 ohms. I would STRONGLY suggest not using efests or anything with"---Fire---" in the title.
 

Magaro

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I have 60 total 5 are spoken for via my demo, a failed engraving sample and 3 for family. I could do more but the likelyhood is slim. To all of those on the list bare in mind this is a true mechanical with huge contacts and the ability to flow copious amount of current as well as juice. Build it low, when the button gets too hot you have gone too far. I'm at .2 currently with almost no heat. That said the contacts are huge but they are not plated or coated this will require maintenance, the harder you push t the more maintenance it will need. I have dead shorted mine quite a few times and got a 25r hot enough to turn the shrink wrap into a pair of high water pants with zero permanent damage. I would reccomend using Samsung 25r batteries if you are pushing below .3 ohms. I would STRONGLY suggest not using efests or anything with"---Fire---" in the title.

Getting hard to breathe...:w00t::hubba:
 
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penguiness

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Evidently Yiorgio got the wrong impression... The version one like yours has a drilled 3mm pin that I stepped down to the Native m2.5 to thread into the mid deck, and cross drilled a drain. This method left very little strength in the 510 pin. For every ten I started one maybe 2 were viable. I had to find a better solution. The v2 never saw the light of day it was scrapped before the first one shipped. Version 3 is done similar to the Vector and re-threaded. This one will not over squonk as easily as yours has and will be much stronger as there are no holes bored or cross drilled to weaken the core of the pin. The extra 3mm of tank will also place the air hole and deck that same 3mm higher to further reduce the chance of oversquonking. I have a lot of hours into the Nectar bottom feeding design. I may try a version 4 if the 3 is well received its already blueprinted, I just need to make the tool tho make it work. I have yet to find anything that will help me bisect a m3 with any sort of repeatability. While there aren't as many steps to the nectar as their are when converting the veritas it's just as time consuming.

I really appreciate the extra time you took to offer assistance to help me get the most out of it. I am not disappointed with v1 at all. It is my go-to atty for NET's on a regulated.
 

IonMan

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I have 60 total 5 are spoken for via my demo, a failed engraving sample and 3 for family. I could do more but the likelyhood is slim. To all of those on the list bare in mind this is a true mechanical with huge contacts and the ability to flow copious amount of current as well as juice. Build it low, when the button gets too hot you have gone too far. I'm at .2 currently with almost no heat. That said the contacts are huge but they are not plated or coated this will require maintenance, the harder you push t the more maintenance it will need. I have dead shorted mine quite a few times and got a 25r hot enough to turn the shrink wrap into a pair of high water pants with zero permanent damage. I would reccomend using Samsung 25r batteries if you are pushing below .3 ohms. I would STRONGLY suggest not using efests or anything with"---Fire---" in the title.
Hells to the m#tha##ckin yeah ::excited::
 
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steven445

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I can vouch for a single coil fused Clapton in the Manta... havent tried dual yet

How does it vape because I want to throw one in there.
I have a reo so what resistance would be good?
What about id? Would 2mm be ok?
Like 26 awg and 32 awg?
Sorry for all the questions lol!
 
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Chowderhead1972

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Tom what are you referring to when you say I got the wrong impression? Which I tend to do alot.....lol .. but can you help me out with what impression ? My Veritas is still kicking ......... Unique and I'm sure.... time consuming solution.

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In regards to your post on TMods.
 

Yiorgo

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In regards to your post on TMods.
Oh here go... I just shared this person's experience. It was on roscoes thread but this is what i mentioned.

"For a real short attyI like the Bambino, personally. It's what I want on my rDNA. My Nectar leaks and am hearing this is more of a common problem. There are no orings between the small tank section and the atty which sounds good until you have juice in it."

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Yiorgo

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My relaying that comment from Tbev s thread or the op doesn't go to the quality of your work......all of mine leak when I over sqounk them.... That was my point.


Actually my point was do some research on it before you buy it....... And keep in mind that ppl over sqounk their atties.
 
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Chowderhead1972

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My relaying that comment from Tbev s thread or the op doesn't go to the quality of your work......all of mine leak when I over sqounk them.... That was my point.

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With the Nectar micro of you make it leak it I'm not sure I have anything that won't. My Marquis will leak before my Nectar will. Perhaps a Vector. While the Manta won't leak it will plug the afc if over done, makes for a very weird vape when it happens. I find I oversquonk a lot when my wick needs to be replaced.

And if your tank leaks on the Nectar it's because the center pin has gotten loose from taking it off and on the 510. They should be pretty tight out of the box but these are not one piece cartos.
 
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