Sent email , wondering if I have room for a stumpy.
Looks like Tom is willing to try!!I'm sorry to hear that. Can it be cleaned up at all?
Send it to me... I will clean it up....















Sent email , wondering if I have room for a stumpy.
Tom is such a nice guy, Hope he can do it for you.Looks like Tom is willing to try!!
Tom- thanks so much!! I'll send it, but I tell you what that's some nasty azz shizz in there... not sure it'll work, but I really appreciate you trying!
If it's any sort of nylon or plastic I can get it.Looks like Tom is willing to try!!
Tom- thanks so much!! I'll send it, but I tell you what that's some nasty azz shizz in there... not sure it'll work, but I really appreciate you trying!
Ordered the one pictured as well as a the welder.... That's how a Catfish "Do".

Just received the Hornet, my very first BF RBA. My intent was to replace the button and spring on my mod and then build a coil but I couldn't wait. Loves it!
Didn't have experience enough to know if I wanted the air hole drilled out. The draw is better than with a Cisco .357 but nowhere near as open as my sub ohm tanks, which is fine for mouth to lung hits. If I were to make it bigger, what would be the best way to go about it - just take a drill with the smallest bit and have at it?
And, this is a total newb question but, why would my coil register at 1 ohm til I started using it and then read at 2 ohms once I'd squonked a few times? I did about 8 wraps of 26 gauge kanthal around pink capped syringe tip (told ya I was in a hurry!). A VW is on the horizon for just this sort of situation... Do you guys precisely hit your ohm target every time?
Anyway, I'll be spending the rest of the day wondering why I resisted building coils for so long...
Thanks, Tom!
Just received the Hornet, my very first BF RBA. My intent was to replace the button and spring on my mod and then build a coil but I couldn't wait. Loves it!
Didn't have experience enough to know if I wanted the air hole drilled out. The draw is better than with a Cisco .357 but nowhere near as open as my sub ohm tanks, which is fine for mouth to lung hits. If I were to make it bigger, what would be the best way to go about it - just take a drill with the smallest bit and have at it?
And, this is a total newb question but, why would my coil register at 1 ohm til I started using it and then read at 2 ohms once I'd squonked a few times? I did about 8 wraps of 26 gauge kanthal around pink capped syringe tip (told ya I was in a hurry!). A VW is on the horizon for just this sort of situation... Do you guys precisely hit your ohm target every time?
Anyway, I'll be spending the rest of the day wondering why I resisted building coils for so long...
Thanks, Tom!
A LITTLE settling-in of resistance can occur, but not that much!
Something's funky - probably a loose connection if the resistance went UP like that...
To get an estimate, I recommend fiddling with this coil calculator - it let's me get very close. I might aim for 0.5 and end up at 0.6, but if it's farther off than that, I did something wrong...
For instance - you sure you used 26 gauge?
26 gauge 8 wraps would usually be well under 1 ohm (around 0.7).
(But 8 wraps of 28 would be pretty close.)
So in other words they haven't fixed the oring issue from the Vertex v2...... I think I'm working with a cam v2 clone but I hear ya with the orings...... Just recieved my new cap THANKS TOM.... I DONT KNOW OF ANY BUSINESS THAT WOULD REMEMBER AND REPLACE THE TOP CAP AFTER 4 MONTHS .... I'd love to know what size would replace the deck oring..? But this could all be for nothing, after I see how my Vector performs!Been using one for a couple weeks now. I'm not an atty expert by any means but to me, it's pretty dang good. Slightly better flavor than the vertex, good vapor, easy to build. airflow is similar to a vertex. I can see it doing well as a bf atty, and I'd be in for at least one. The one thing i hate about it are the o rings. They swell up and gets to be a real pain to get back on. More of an issue for a dripper, less for bf use. But still a pain
I ordered 2 of them last week and received them. I'm personally not impressed with them. The power source is 2 tiny watch batteries. I also have one of the cheaper version from the same company and that one is not as pretty but works better and run on AA batteries. If you are buying one I reccomend the cheaper of the 2. The one in your picture doesn't have a screw to hold the back/bottom on, just tiny magnets. Feels very cheap and will separate if you pick it up too fast. I'm hoping the new one from your link will be better, looks industrial grade. We'll see.Cool - hope it's a winner. It LOOKS designed well...
Me, I'm still debating whether cough up for one of these, when my $12 chinese ohmbox still works.
(correction, I checked: $10.11)
![]()
Just received the Hornet, my very first BF RBA. My intent was to replace the button and spring on my mod and then build a coil but I couldn't wait. Loves it!
Didn't have experience enough to know if I wanted the air hole drilled out. The draw is better than with a Cisco .357 but nowhere near as open as my sub ohm tanks, which is fine for mouth to lung hits. If I were to make it bigger, what would be the best way to go about it - just take a drill with the smallest bit and have at it?
And, this is a total newb question but, why would my coil register at 1 ohm til I started using it and then read at 2 ohms once I'd squonked a few times? I did about 8 wraps of 26 gauge kanthal around pink capped syringe tip (told ya I was in a hurry!). A VW is on the horizon for just this sort of situation... Do you guys precisely hit your ohm target every time?
Anyway, I'll be spending the rest of the day wondering why I resisted building coils for so long...
Thanks, Tom!
There never was an issue with the rings on the vertex. The issue was the topcap was machined too large. The o-rings simply couldn't take up the variance effectively. Hence the loose cap. With the replacement cap that is made to the correct spec the o-ring and fit border on too tight. In regards to the swelling issue all orings will do that, some are more resistant to it than others but it effects American O-rings just as bad as The Chinese ones. I will say this though: if you have a vertex clone remove the red gum o-ring and install the black one from the spares kit. The red one is too fat and way too soft.So in other words they haven't fixed the oring issue from the Vertex v2...... I think I'm working with a cam v2 clone but I hear ya with the orings...... Just recieved my new cap THANKS TOM.... I DONT KNOW OF ANY BUSINESS THAT WOULD REMEMBER AND REPLACE THE TOP CAP AFTER 4 MONTHS .... I'd love to know what size would replace the deck oring..? But this could all be for nothing, after I see how my Vector performs!
Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
Tom first of all thank you for the quick shipping..(ordered juice from calif 4 days ago and still nothing.) ... This SUNBOX looks PERFECT I was hoping it didn't have 2 doors and IT DOESNT! YESSSSS !! Smells like crap but looks sweet! .... Old Custard juice STANK ..... yuck! Vector looks awesome.... great presentation.... right?!! and looks easy to build..... I just have to figure out the Dna 40 haven't even watched a vid on it in months! Need to flip the display?There never was an issue with the rings on the vertex. The issue was the topcap was machined too large. The o-rings simply couldn't take up the variance effectively. Hence the loose cap. With the replacement cap that is made to the correct spec the o-ring and fit border on too tight. In regards to the swelling issue all orings will do that, some are more resistant to it than others but it effects American O-rings just as bad as The Chinese ones. I will say this though: if you have a vertex clone remove the red gum o-ring and install the black one from the spares kit. The red one is too fat and way too soft.