Chalice - MarkBugs Bottom Feeder Atomiser - Official thread

[RattlerX]

Just built a duplicate of FB's and it hits and taste great. Good job FB...

There was one minor issue....the end of the wire was not pushed in close enough to the post and just made a very slight contact with the cap. Yep I dropped my first spring. I am sure glad this REO has a built in safety feature.

I had to get a magnifying glass to see the end of the wire so be careful.

 

[ZeroOhms]

For a clean trimming of leg at the post, use a angled toenail clipper similar to this
Amazon.com: Tweezerman Professional Deluxe Toenail Clipper Grooved To Catch Clippings: Beauty

They will make near flush cut against the post. Better than any plier.

 

[keepsmiling]

Just built a duplicate of FB's and it hits and taste great. Good job FB...

There was one minor issue....the end of the wire was not pushed in close enough to the post and just made a very slight contact with the cap. Yep I dropped my first spring. I am sure glad this REO has a built in safety feature.

I had to get a magnifying glass to see the end of the wire so be careful.

How scary. I am sorry, but glad too there is that safety feature. I think I snapped mine off instead of clipping. I will check it with the magnifier today to be sure this doesn't happen. Does this mean that Reo has to go to Rob?

 

[Kentastic]

How scary. I am sorry, but glad too there is that safety feature. I think I snapped mine off instead of clipping. I will check it with the magnifier today to be sure this doesn't happen. Does this mean that Reo has to go to Rob?

If it's a metal Reo, then the spring replacement is just one little phillips screw. (Turn your Reo upside down to see it). If you can use a little screw driver then it's self serviceable.

Woodvils are more involved due to having to un solder the collapsed spring and solder a new spring to the internal wires. Unless you are handy with a soldering iron, they usually have to go back to Rob.


Reosmods.com has the springs for $5 each. I always have a least 1 spare tucked away in a Reo parts drawer.

 

[RattlerX]

How scary. I am sorry, but glad too there is that safety feature. I think I snapped mine off instead of clipping. I will check it with the magnifier today to be sure this doesn't happen. Does this mean that Reo has to go to Rob?

I just replaced the spring and was back in business in a few minutes. I always keep a spare as well.

 

[AngiBe]

When doing an "ugly" coil, the same wraps/gauge wire apply but just wrap it more spread out, correct?

 

[want to quit]

When doing an "ugly" coil, the same wraps/gauge wire apply but just wrap it more spread out, correct?

Lol @ ugly coil. I think it might change it slightly. if you a microcoil at 11wraps 28g gives me 1.5ohm and 5 wraps ugly coil give me 1ohm I don't think it's exactly the same amount of wraps but it might be. If you like 1ohm just do 5-6 wraps ugly style and if you like it a bit higher try 7-8 wraps.

Always keep in mind that FB and Canadian Comedian are fancy boys that (in their words) geek out on coils. So far there has not been a single coil that didn't give me an amazing vape on this C3.

So long story short, wrap away and good luck

 

[AngiBe]

Lol @ ugly coil. I think it might change it slightly. if you a microcoil at 11wraps 28g gives me 1.5ohm and 5 wraps ugly coil give me 1ohm I don't think it's exactly the same amount of wraps but it might be. If you like 1ohm just do 5-6 wraps ugly style and if you like it a bit higher try 7-8 wraps.

Always keep in mind that FB and Canadian Comedian are fancy boys that (in their words) geek out on coils. So far there has not been a single coil that didn't give me an amazing vape on this C3.

So long story short, wrap away and good luck

Ok thanks! Even my "micro coils" are truly ugly. LOLOL but...I forget who said it but a wider spaced coil allows more juice to soak in the wicks which I thought would be a great thing to try. I usually use 28g KA1, wrapped on a 16 Luer around .60Ω

 

[want to quit]

Ok thanks! Even my "micro coils" are truly ugly. LOLOL but...I forget who said it but a wider spaced coil allows more juice to soak in the wicks which I thought would be a great thing to try. I usually use 28g KA1, wrapped on a 16 Luer around .60Ω

Just like with DNA40's you are right, the more surface area covers the wick the better. I also use a lil bigger coils for the chalice between 1.8-2mm to allow more cotton. You vape at 0.60ohm? that would kill me. I always believe the smaller the chamber the higher the ohm to get a great vape. It's probably just in Ben's lil head but for the Chalice 0.9ohm is the lowest I personally go just to allow a great flavor, vapor ratio.

 

[AngiBe]

Just like with DNA40's you are right, the more surface area covers the wick the better. I also use a lil bigger coils for the chalice between 1.8-2mm to allow more cotton. You vape at 0.60ohm? that would kill me. I always believe the smaller the chamber the higher the ohm to get a great vape. It's probably just in Ben's lil head but for the Chalice 0.9ohm is the lowest I personally go just to allow a great flavor, vapor ratio.

Thanks! May try higher ohms then. I usually vape .60-.70Ω on the RM2 or RM3 and they seem this small. I'll just have to play around later today with it.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Yes approximately the same wraps, you might have a slight bit more wire in a spaced for a slightly higher ohm. A spaced coil will be wider and this can change how the legs run to the posts. If you need more or less wire in the legs this will have the biggest impact on ohm shifting for a given number of wraps.

Part of process I use when mounting coils is to pre-bend the legs. While on the mandrel I hold the coil next to the posts, if the legs don't line up, I'll put a bend or two into the legs with a tweezers before mounting. This lessens the effect of pulling on the legs messing up the coil. In the coil below the bends add wire length and would need less wraps to hit a given ohm.

I mount with coil on the mandrel and I try to mount slightly closer than I want and then pull it out to snug up the legs and wraps.

A Pre-bent micro as an example

 

[want to quit]

Thanks! May try higher ohms then. I usually vape .60-.70Ω on the RM2 or RM3 and they seem this small. I'll just have to play around later today with it.

Never listen to me. I vape for 4 years and still consider myself to be a total idiot when it comes to vaping.

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

want to quit is right - there doesn't seem to be a bad coil for this atty. Amazing, really.

Myself, I've settled in (for the day) to a spaced coil, 28 gauge, 6 wraps, 1/16", ~.75ohms, RxW wick.

Thing.of.beauty.

I wouldn't consider it ugly - it has a kind of quirky, rakish charm.

 

[ZeroOhms]

Yes approximately the same wraps, you might have a slight bit more wire in a spaced for a slightly higher ohm. A spaced coil will be wider and this can change how the legs run to the posts. If you need more or less wire in the legs this will have the biggest impact on ohm shifting for a given number of wraps.

Part of process I use when mounting coils is to pre-bend the legs. While on the mandrel I hold the coil next to the posts, if the legs don't line up, I'll put a bend or two into the legs with a tweezers before mounting. This lessens the effect of pulling on the legs messing up the coil. In the coil below the bends add wire length and would need less wraps to hit a given ohm.

I mount with coil on the mandrel and I try to mount slightly closer than I want and then pull it out to snug up the legs and wraps.

I thought about how the legs of your previous build was stretching to the sides. While the bent legs might be a good solution, I always felt that a sharp bending at the leg could introduce additional resistance at the leg. (which could lead to hot leg) This is a pure guess and might not be the case.

I was wondering if someone can try this out and see if it makes easier to build. Idea is simple. Instead of stretching the legs to meet the post, how about using the gap in the coil to adjust the overall width of the coil itself.

Below gap (or "spaced" or "ugly" or whatever you want to call it) coil, I jumped 2 threads in the middle.

It will create a larger gap in the center and increase the width of overall coil.

Same thing can be done with the standard micro coil but it is little more tricky to create a gap since there is no threads to hold the wire in place. But it still can be done.

Since I don't have Chalice III yet, I can't say if this will work or not. Sorry about that.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

I thought about how the legs of your previous build was stretching to the sides. While the bent legs might be a good solution, I always felt that a sharp bending at the leg could introduce additional resistance at the leg. (which could lead to hot leg) This is a pure guess and might not be the case.

I was wondering if someone can try this out and see if it makes easier to build. Idea is simple. Instead of stretching the legs to meet the post, how about using the gap in the coil to adjust the overall width of the coil itself.

Below gap (or "spaced" or "ugly" or whatever you want to call it) coil, I jumped 2 threads in the middle.

It will create a larger gap in the center and increase the width of overall coil.

Same thing can be done with the standard micro coil but it is little more tricky to create a gap since there is no threads to hold the wire in place. But it still can be done.

Since I don't have Chalice III yet, I can't say if this will work or not. Sorry about that.

Those will work and with the double touching micro coil allow juice in the middle. the one I posted was and extreme example used to get the coil to the air hole on an RM2 that is in a fixed, offset, not centered between the posts location.

With the chalice III I like to wrap the legs in a clockwise direction around the posts, this naturally pulls the coil to the left so I pre-bend it like this and then I don't mess up the coil trying to push it back to center after mounting.

 

[Train2]

That is a neat idea - I think the question is whether it will heat evenly, or may "act" like 2 coils. the micro especially, could leave a "cool spot" in the middle. Still would work though...

I thought about how the legs of your previous build was stretching to the sides. While the bent legs might be a good solution, I always felt that a sharp bending at the leg could introduce additional resistance at the leg. (which could lead to hot leg) This is a pure guess and might not be the case.

I was wondering if someone can try this out and see if it makes easier to build. Idea is simple. Instead of stretching the legs to meet the post, how about using the gap in the coil to adjust the overall width of the coil itself.

Below gap (or "spaced" or "ugly" or whatever you want to call it) coil, I jumped 2 threads in the middle.

It will create a larger gap in the center and increase the width of overall coil.

Same thing can be done with the standard micro coil but it is little more tricky to create a gap since there is no threads to hold the wire in place. But it still can be done.

Since I don't have Chalice III yet, I can't say if this will work or not. Sorry about that.

 

[Train2]

Oh my gosh, the LIKE has moved, then moved again. AAAAAghhhhhhHH!

 

[AngiBe]

Oh my gosh, the LIKE has moved, then moved again. AAAAAghhhhhhHH!

Weird...just noticed that too

 

[ZeroOhms]

That is a neat idea - I think the question is whether it will heat evenly, or may "act" like 2 coils. the micro especially, could leave a "cool spot" in the middle. Still would work though...

I tried mounting this coil to a dripper and fired it. Looks like it is heating the coil nicely. Heats from center out.
I took a few pics but going to stop spamming the thread with more picts.

 

[keepsmiling]

WOW again. How does this tiny thing produce such plumes of flavor! I mean a lot of vapor!