Cleaning

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I tried using 91% alcohol and now my atomizer doesn't work - just a heads up. I've also tried using white vinegar on my other atomizer and it stopped working after that. Thus far, I'm not seeing a safe way to clean an atomizer...I've order more atomizers and now wonder exactly which rout to go.
(approx 15 minutes later)

One step that I wasn't doing was dripping a couple drops of eliquid directly on the atomizer to prime it; now it appears to be functioning well; however I've not had a chance to try this on my other atomizer, I'll update this post if that works on it as well.
 
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Just wanted to follow-up on priming my atty's and in fact both of them work. I did in fact have to go through the steps of blowing on the LED end of the battery to get the atty red-hot a couple times, drip on some eliquid, take 4 or 5 drags, and repeat the process until I got what I believed to be a normal amount of vapor. Again, thanks to all of you for your help and advice!
 

grumpster

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ECF Veteran
May 18, 2009
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Texas USA
Any effective method of cleaning your atty will leave it dry at first. You can't just put a cart on it and expect it to work right away. You need to either prime it with 1-2 drops of juice directly on the wick of put a fresh cart on it and wait for about 5 minutes for the wick to absorb the juice from the cart before smoking it.

As for blowing on the battery end and what that does is simple. Your activating the air sensor and causing the heating element on the atomizer to heat up. It will heat up much more than normal for 2 reasons. When you draw on your e-cig normally, your drawing air across it and that helps to cool the heating coil down. Your also drawing juice across the heating coil, also cooling it. When you blow on the battery end with the cartridge removed, your not creating air flow and there is no supply of juice to cool it. Result, a much hotter heating element.

This extream heating will burn off any deposits that are on the heating element. Basically, it burns it to ash allowing it to fall off. Many people have reported that they have destroyed their attomizers doing this.

Two likely reasons are the following. Genuine DSE 801-901 attomizers have thicker heating elements. They are much more durable, but don't produce as much fog. The generic RN 4072-4075 attomizers have thinner heating coils and are more sensitive. They run hotter, produce more fog, but are less forgiving and don't last as long for most users.

The second reason that attomizers often fail when some one attempts a burn is due to a heavily contaminated heating coil. When a coil accumilates an excessive ammount of deposis on it, the coil effectively becomes insulated. That is what causes a attomizer to become "cold" over time producing less and less vapor. When you try to do a burn on a contaminated coil like this, it over heats to the extream that it causes the element to fail much like blowing a fuse.

If you going to use the practice of burning your attomizers to keep them clean, you need to do this from the very beginning when you first get your attomizer before the layer of deposits build up. If you wait till it starts to produce less vapor and get's cold, your almost assured that it will overheat and fail due to the insulation qualities of the deposit buid up.

I hope this helps explain a few things for some people.
 
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