That makes more sense. Sorry your cleverness went over my head. I usually do a better job of reading posts. Mondays are my sober days. LOL!
"clearomizer" round up for 808s...
- Thread starter Cyrus Vap
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That makes more sense. Sorry your cleverness went over my head. I usually do a better job of reading posts. Mondays are my sober days. LOL!
I'm kind of looking for how it connects to the center post. Tried a cotton wick last night and tore the coil pulling it back up a second time. Actually managed to kill an ultimate.
Ahh I see, that's how it always starts 
First off I would spare you the agony of trying to solder raw dog stainless steel to the post, its not happening. You need to wrap the SS in some no resistance wire (the shelled CE2 wire works) otherwise it just ain't happening. Any speaker wire or no resistance wire will do.
You can also bypass the soldering by picking up some heat shrink and just doing the tuck, as I know you've done with the Ce2 wires in the past, you were the one that made it work and kicked my .... into getting it right
But if you want to solder, it is a better and more stable connection. Let me look around now, I have to leave in a few minutes again. brb
First off I would spare you the agony of trying to solder raw dog stainless steel to the post, its not happening. You need to wrap the SS in some no resistance wire (the shelled CE2 wire works) otherwise it just ain't happening. Any speaker wire or no resistance wire will do.
You can also bypass the soldering by picking up some heat shrink and just doing the tuck, as I know you've done with the Ce2 wires in the past, you were the one that made it work and kicked my .... into getting it right
But if you want to solder, it is a better and more stable connection. Let me look around now, I have to leave in a few minutes again. brb
that's a sloppy gal that I call butch, but she works like dynamite
that's actually argentium silver from Twisted Jewels, solders just fine on its own
the moral of the story is, I make a U shape, the end of which ends up pointing up parallel to the post
I've also done it by wrapping a U perpendicular to the post
they both work
just wish I was more precise with my solder globs lol
yeah, if I'm going to do it, it will be permanent and rebuildable so I can tuck coil tails into the tubes. I was just curious as to how much you can bend the hypodermic tubing before it cracks. Looks like it's tapered. Probably won't be attempting this until next week but I may order the supplies so I have them on hand when I decide I have the time. Thanks.
So you took the sleeving off the bottom of the cup. Nothing seeps up in there?
So you took the sleeving off the bottom of the cup. Nothing seeps up in there?
Yo Cyrus, what the hell is going on here?
Between all the technical talk, modifications, and testimonials... I'm no longer sure what's the best clearo out there.
So are fluxos still numer one in your book?
Between all the technical talk, modifications, and testimonials... I'm no longer sure what's the best clearo out there.
So are fluxos still numer one in your book?
yes sir they are
Great to hear
I'm thinking of ordering some more before they go out of stock... got to be ready in case of a zombie apocalypse 
yes sir they are
Even the Supreme? Still have wicking problem here... maybe I need to do my own wick, huh?
That's exactly what I'm wondering, even though I haven't had wicking issues so far. But if there's a better alternative out there, I wanna know about it.
For me so far the only difference in the supreme is the annoying nipple. Once I ditch that thing,
Fluff the wicks and insert a flat seal I'm not having issues. But I know skelley is so maybe the new wicks do stink, but they haven't give me a problem.
What seals are you guys using? Have you fluffed? What voltage are you vaping at? And what kind of wicking issues are you having ?
As far as something better, the Phoenix has given me more trouble than the flux ever has, but once
I get it working properly (which is much more difficult) they are pretty close to the fluxos, but still 2nd best for me
I believe Skelleys favorite clearo is the authentic MiT CE3 (same as Phoenix
At a glance) but I've never tried them and I'm not sure if they have 808s. But skelley knows what he's talking about so if you're itching to try something else I would try those. Ive been using the Phoenix
510 on manual 808s with a cone and adaptor and it's just like using them on a 510. But an adaptor with an auto
808 may give you wonky airflow and that's going to require yet another mod to
Your adaptor/air intake holes...
Fluff the wicks and insert a flat seal I'm not having issues. But I know skelley is so maybe the new wicks do stink, but they haven't give me a problem.
What seals are you guys using? Have you fluffed? What voltage are you vaping at? And what kind of wicking issues are you having ?
As far as something better, the Phoenix has given me more trouble than the flux ever has, but once
I get it working properly (which is much more difficult) they are pretty close to the fluxos, but still 2nd best for me
I believe Skelleys favorite clearo is the authentic MiT CE3 (same as Phoenix
At a glance) but I've never tried them and I'm not sure if they have 808s. But skelley knows what he's talking about so if you're itching to try something else I would try those. Ive been using the Phoenix
510 on manual 808s with a cone and adaptor and it's just like using them on a 510. But an adaptor with an auto
808 may give you wonky airflow and that's going to require yet another mod to
Your adaptor/air intake holes...
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yo dude
the sleeve on that one was actually a mistake, but it ended up being fine. no seeping, no leaks. and since those are solid pieces of silver the coil tails have nothing to plug into, they are just sandwiched between the silver and the cup holes .Its a very tight, stable fit. The cup holds nice and stable. If I want to make a coil change I just wiggle the cup off, insert the new coil/wick assembly with the tails sticking through the bottom, and nudge the cup down will guiding the silver posts up through the cup slots.
that's 24 gauge silver and 34 gauge coil.
you can do it with 24 gauge silver and 32 gauge coil, but its a huge PITA.
24 gauge SS hypodermic fits through the cup slot, but you can't get a coil through the cup hole without sanding down the SS first.
The 'plug' method of sticking the coil in the hypodermic is also great, the problem is, once the stainless steel is soldered down and you can't move anything, convincing the coil tails to go in can become tricky in the cramped space of the cup. So I when I use SS I like to ditch the solder and be able to slide the SS tubes up to give myself more room to insert. The one thing I don't like too much about that method is if you don't get the SS tube that's your base contact at the right length, and won't have enough tension to hold it in place against the base and you'll end up with intermittent 'breaks' in your electrical continuity, but it still works for me 95% of the time. The issue surfaces more if you try to adjust your wicks or something and inadvertently pull things up...
Cyrus, how exactly do you go about fluffing the wicks? I saw a gotvapes' video and the guy does it in like 2 seconds. I was wondering if you have another method.
untwist the wicks a little and get them flush with the top of the cup. When you put the shell back on it will pull the wicks back down a little but its easy to pull them back up with a bent pin. Pull them up above the top of the ceramic cup and let the top seal tamp them back down a bit.
Basically all you are doing is making sure the wick covers the hole but isn't pinched too much or it slows the wicking process. It's more of a technique rather than "here's exactly how it should be done" because juice viscosity differs. There was one really good video that simply showed a good wick fluffing with out 10 minutes of other crap. I can't find it now but it doesn't mean I won't keep looking.
Basically all you are doing is making sure the wick covers the hole but isn't pinched too much or it slows the wicking process. It's more of a technique rather than "here's exactly how it should be done" because juice viscosity differs. There was one really good video that simply showed a good wick fluffing with out 10 minutes of other crap. I can't find it now but it doesn't mean I won't keep looking.
If you look on badkolos you tube channel (I think its djbizzum) there is an older video of the fluxo deluxe and he does a good demonstration. If I get some time I'll post some pics. But yeah, what Charlz said.
I'm still not sure what kinds of issues you guys are having though, it may not be a wick issue. Tell us more!
I'm still not sure what kinds of issues you guys are having though, it may not be a wick issue. Tell us more!
It's wicking issue all right. Every time I inhaled the magical taste of coil burning, I need to tilt it until the juice reach ceramic cup and everything is all right again.
That's my 2nd supreme, I figured out my 1st supreme leaking problem caused by a generous amount of solder around the base pushed out the tube connection on the base.
Currently back to echomizer, stardust and tank. Really interested with tank + ce2/ce3 possibility tho.
yes that's a wicking problem
the more you're horizontal or above with these, the better. that said, you shouldn't have to be that way all the time at all.
the solder glob you can actually fix. if you have sand paper or comparable you can just file it down until its flatter.
the wicks...I'll post pics soon if you can't figure it out
the more you're horizontal or above with these, the better. that said, you shouldn't have to be that way all the time at all.
the solder glob you can actually fix. if you have sand paper or comparable you can just file it down until its flatter.
the wicks...I'll post pics soon if you can't figure it out
is anyone having problems with these fitting on adapters? I have 4 different 510 to 901 adapters and the threads are too tight for all of them. This completely takes away my ability to dry burn. EPIC fail!
I also am not liking the new wicks. The ones I snip for my ce2/ce4 mods get used in my echomizers. All have gotten black and crusted and not returned completely to normal. I get like 3 days out of a rebuilt echomizer. And I've already had to wait 2-3 days for the silicon to cure for the center post.
I need to find the non ultimate fluxos. If they still exist. Is this a push to get us trying their other products? Why else would they take a perfect product and cripple it?
I also am not liking the new wicks. The ones I snip for my ce2/ce4 mods get used in my echomizers. All have gotten black and crusted and not returned completely to normal. I get like 3 days out of a rebuilt echomizer. And I've already had to wait 2-3 days for the silicon to cure for the center post.
I need to find the non ultimate fluxos. If they still exist. Is this a push to get us trying their other products? Why else would they take a perfect product and cripple it?
Non Ultimate or non Supreme or non Plus? This is confusing... which one is which?
There's one box of, I think, old-style (whatever that is) CE2 at Classified.
Well...I'm on a new one now till I figure it out and not liking the harsh metallic taste but I'll muscle through. It's already going away after .5ml
I have the ce2/ce4 mod perfected now enough to post a "how to". Takes 2.5ml. I'll post as soon as I go to lowe's to figure out what number o ring I'm using around the base of a 2.5ml syringe grommet. I tossed the bag they came in.
I have the ce2/ce4 mod perfected now enough to post a "how to". Takes 2.5ml. I'll post as soon as I go to lowe's to figure out what number o ring I'm using around the base of a 2.5ml syringe grommet. I tossed the bag they came in.
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