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More beautiful work by the Capt'.
I'm going out this weekend to buy some no doze so I can stay up to get one of the Cutlass'!!!
Arrrrrrrrrrr ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzz.
Wait What????? 
Damn I drifted off again!!!! 
I'm going out this weekend to buy some no doze so I can stay up to get one of the Cutlass'!!!
Arrrrrrrrrrr ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzz.
Wait What????? Damn I drifted off again!!!! 
Ahoy, aloha, hafa adai, happy Saturday!
I'm ending it for tonight, eyes blurry, can't solder, loosing super pirate-y powers, arrrrggggg....
As you guys may or may not know, the dna30 boards require thicker wires to handle the current these things can deliver at high settings, but man is it getting hard to stuff all this wiring into the little space I originally planned for when designing mods. I think it is easily taking me an extra hour or two to get each of them assembled this batch.
How is the SX series of chips working for people? are they turning out to be as good as I first heard? Man, those chips will most definitely require a complete re-design as they won't come close to fitting in the current design. Maybe I'll make a small batch of Cruiser HD's again while I figure out what the future holds for RSM.
Anyhow, have a great night all, don't guzzle TOO much rum, arrr
I'm ending it for tonight, eyes blurry, can't solder, loosing super pirate-y powers, arrrrggggg....
As you guys may or may not know, the dna30 boards require thicker wires to handle the current these things can deliver at high settings, but man is it getting hard to stuff all this wiring into the little space I originally planned for when designing mods. I think it is easily taking me an extra hour or two to get each of them assembled this batch.
How is the SX series of chips working for people? are they turning out to be as good as I first heard? Man, those chips will most definitely require a complete re-design as they won't come close to fitting in the current design. Maybe I'll make a small batch of Cruiser HD's again while I figure out what the future holds for RSM.
Anyhow, have a great night all, don't guzzle TOO much rum, arrr
I don't know what the wiring of a Cutlass looks like, there are some ways to simplify the wiring to a DNA. Every GND or '-' connection on the DNA is common on the board (easy to verify with a meter of you're a skeptic).
Run a thick (20 gauge or better) from the battery's negative contact directly to the 510 connector GND. This is where all the negative current will flow. Now you can use a single thin (24 gauge) ground to the DNA board (through which very little current flows -- it basically just provides a ground reference). Of course you still have to use thick wires on the positive side, between the battery and the DNA as well as the DNA and the 510 because the positive side current has to flow through the board.
You can also use a single common wire for the negative side of the power UP and DN switches, and you can connect that to any of the GND points on the board (or even some other ground point outside your board compartment if that's handier). The negative side of the fire switch also doesn't have to be wired to the DNA board, you can wire it to the 510 ground, or the battery ground, potentially saving another wire from having to go to your board compartment.
In the end, you only need two thick wires to the board (battery in and load out), and you quite possibly two fewer ground wires than you might think.
And yes, I've discussed this scheme with Brandon and he's fine with it, and I've built a mod that way, and it works just fine -- I use that mod constantly. Unfortunately, it's made out of plastic rather than wood. But I can say unequivocally that a DNA-30 powered bottom-feeder rocks.
Run a thick (20 gauge or better) from the battery's negative contact directly to the 510 connector GND. This is where all the negative current will flow. Now you can use a single thin (24 gauge) ground to the DNA board (through which very little current flows -- it basically just provides a ground reference). Of course you still have to use thick wires on the positive side, between the battery and the DNA as well as the DNA and the 510 because the positive side current has to flow through the board.
You can also use a single common wire for the negative side of the power UP and DN switches, and you can connect that to any of the GND points on the board (or even some other ground point outside your board compartment if that's handier). The negative side of the fire switch also doesn't have to be wired to the DNA board, you can wire it to the 510 ground, or the battery ground, potentially saving another wire from having to go to your board compartment.
In the end, you only need two thick wires to the board (battery in and load out), and you quite possibly two fewer ground wires than you might think.
And yes, I've discussed this scheme with Brandon and he's fine with it, and I've built a mod that way, and it works just fine -- I use that mod constantly. Unfortunately, it's made out of plastic rather than wood. But I can say unequivocally that a DNA-30 powered bottom-feeder rocks.
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I've been following this thread for a while hoping to score a Cutlass soon, but those caddies are outstanding and I might have to get one of those as well!
Just my .02 on the SX chip.
I watch a lot of review videos and it would seem the sx chip is becoming very popular. Especially among people that want higher watts. Some are even saying Evolve is falling behind because of the higher watt options although from the interview Brandon did with Pbusardo I don't think much higher then 30 watts is in the near future. Personally I am happy with 20-30 watt limits. I have 5 daily use devices and all of them but 1 are set to about 15 watts. One is set to 25-30 watts with a dripper on it.
Honestly I would buy an RSM with either board (as long as it uses buttons to adjust lol) but I think if given the option of either I would go with a DNA version. Although I think some people would prefer the SX because it will do 50 or 100 watts now and is upgradeable. BTW I think if you used the SX board you should put a charge port on it since that is how it is upgraded and I think cutting out that feature would possibly hinder sales.
As to DNA availability I think some of the lack of availability was due to the contract Evolve made with Innoken. But from the sounds of it going forward that shouldn't be as big of an issue.
I watch a lot of review videos and it would seem the sx chip is becoming very popular. Especially among people that want higher watts. Some are even saying Evolve is falling behind because of the higher watt options although from the interview Brandon did with Pbusardo I don't think much higher then 30 watts is in the near future. Personally I am happy with 20-30 watt limits. I have 5 daily use devices and all of them but 1 are set to about 15 watts. One is set to 25-30 watts with a dripper on it.
Honestly I would buy an RSM with either board (as long as it uses buttons to adjust lol) but I think if given the option of either I would go with a DNA version. Although I think some people would prefer the SX because it will do 50 or 100 watts now and is upgradeable. BTW I think if you used the SX board you should put a charge port on it since that is how it is upgraded and I think cutting out that feature would possibly hinder sales.
As to DNA availability I think some of the lack of availability was due to the contract Evolve made with Innoken. But from the sounds of it going forward that shouldn't be as big of an issue.
I have a Segelei 20W that I use daily. It has the SX 200 chip. Most of my builds are in the 1.2 to 1.5 range and I barely use anything higher than 12 watts. When I drip I use either a mech mod or my 20W set between 15 and 20 watts. For the most part it works well although it sometimes gets finicky when it will show the ohm reading jumping around. What I do then is pull the battery and reset it. As for the gyro to change settings it is not a big deal to do.
I have not used a DNA chip but I'm looking forward to land one of the Capt' Cutlass'. For me personally I don't have the need to vape higher than 30 watts but thats not to say it will not change over my vaping journey. Just my
I have not used a DNA chip but I'm looking forward to land one of the Capt' Cutlass'. For me personally I don't have the need to vape higher than 30 watts but thats not to say it will not change over my vaping journey. Just my
Ahoy all.
Weather here cleared up this afternoon so I have the cnc machine hammering down on desk caddies atm.
I still have some last minute details to do on the batch but they are mostly built now and passed tests. I will probably try to give them a wax and buff Tuesday and start putting the kits together for sale. I estimate pics by Wednesday.
There will be about a half dozen mods posted with a few lagging the batch to be posted at a later date (I ran out of 20 gauge wire).
I thought that Saturday the 23rd, 9 PM EST would be a fine time to display them on the website for purchasing. If you have to work Saturday evening, sorry!
I have yet to decide on which Cutlass to grab for myself as they seem to operate identically to the DNA20 and I never vape over 9 watts. I might not even take one. The higher power would be wasted on me and my Cutlass20 from 10 months ago is still purring like a boozed up kitten.
That's all the news for now.
Arrrr
Weather here cleared up this afternoon so I have the cnc machine hammering down on desk caddies atm.
I still have some last minute details to do on the batch but they are mostly built now and passed tests. I will probably try to give them a wax and buff Tuesday and start putting the kits together for sale. I estimate pics by Wednesday.
There will be about a half dozen mods posted with a few lagging the batch to be posted at a later date (I ran out of 20 gauge wire).
I thought that Saturday the 23rd, 9 PM EST would be a fine time to display them on the website for purchasing. If you have to work Saturday evening, sorry!
I have yet to decide on which Cutlass to grab for myself as they seem to operate identically to the DNA20 and I never vape over 9 watts. I might not even take one. The higher power would be wasted on me and my Cutlass20 from 10 months ago is still purring like a boozed up kitten.
That's all the news for now.
Arrrr
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i like the change of avi but elwood has left the building.
Beloved, officially ugly dog dies - CNN.com
T
Beloved, officially ugly dog dies - CNN.com
T
Hey all.... sad to say but I have my RSM Cutlass DNA 20 up for sale in the classies. I love the mod but have grown to love my Kayfuns and Russians taste more than my bottom feeders
So the mod is just collecting dust and needs a good home. If cappy makes a run of Cutlass' es that are not bottom fed in the near future I may have to jump on one.
Anywho...if anyone is looking for a Cutlass dna20...check out my post.
So the mod is just collecting dust and needs a good home. If cappy makes a run of Cutlass' es that are not bottom fed in the near future I may have to jump on one.
Anywho...if anyone is looking for a Cutlass dna20...check out my post.
It's interesting how different people like different things. I went the opposite direction; from R91s and KFL+V2s (all real, no clones) to all bottom-feeders, all the time.
Sounds great Cappy - I've got my alarm set
And thank you very much for your hard work.
Everyone else just step back slowly and I won't need to unsheath my saber..... Arrrr !
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I'm starting to be the same way. Bottom feed drippers are about all that holds my attention right now.
I'll be after one of this batch if luck holds out. Sooner or later I'll manage get my hands on one of these.
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