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fright88

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Sooo many variables, but I get about 24 hours out of a battery, give or take. I'm using CGR18650CH batteries usually. The cheaper Efest batteries last about 3/4 as long but a lot depends on the battery capacity, what ohm your vaping, what your watts are set at, etc.

I vape at about 2.5 to 3 ohms and 8 to 9 watts so the demand on the battery isn't very high.

Ahh but any idea what your battery voltage is when you remove?

As for battery life I agree with Cappy a lot of it will depend on age of your battery how many amps it can produce resistance of attached device what wattage you are running.

I have found on my Destroyer a Hybrid Panasonic 10 amp NCR18650PF 2900 Mah at 13 watts 1.4 ohms runs me about 3 ml or 3-4 hours. Usually around 3 hours and 15 min ish until I have to start popping the battery in and out to use it. Close to 4 before it just stops working and my multimeter and charger both show either 3.6 or 3.7v when I recharge.
However my 2500 Mah 35 amp Efest Purples usually run me about 4-5 hours on about a completely draine Russian I believe 4.5 ml. same coil 1.4 ohms at 13 watts. Voltage still reads the same at 3.6-3.7 volts when I go to charge.

Personally as a person that hates recharging I would be the first in line for a dual 18650 Destroyer and Cutlass.
 

FAAmecanic

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Sooo many variables, but I get about 24 hours out of a battery, give or take. I'm using CGR18650CH batteries usually. The cheaper Efest batteries last about 3/4 as long but a lot depends on the battery capacity, what ohm your vaping, what your watts are set at, etc.

I vape at about 2.5 to 3 ohms and 8 to 9 watts so the demand on the battery isn't very high.
I use AW IMR 18650 1600 mah. I am vaping at 14 watts @1 ohm (3.9 volts).

I just find it odd the DNA 20 spec sheets say 3.2 volts are the min voltage, and the DNA 20 is cutting out at 3.7 volts on the battery. And my provari will keep vaping the same battery down to 3.2 volts when I take it out of my DNA cutlass.

I will try a higher ohm build. And buying some Sony 2500 mah batts.
 

Capt' Brian

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I have noticed for a while on mine, that when a battery starts to get low and I take a vape it must drop below the threshold needed to run the regulator for a microsecond because the amount of watts it displays starts to creep upwards by .1 watts randomly. It will also jump up by .1 watts when I take the battery out and replace it again so I assume that is whats happening.

If your battery drops below the regulator input threshold when demand is put upon it then you start getting the low battery alert even when the battery seems to still read high enough to drive the regulator. I just ignore all this stuff for the most part and just pop in another battery without thinking about it too much.
 

Capt' Brian

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Ok, I just played with mine as the battery is dead according to the DN20. The standing voltage without load is 3.59 volts. When I hit the fire button the voltage dropped to 3.23 volts which is at the threshold of the required input to the regulator. Measured using a Fluke DMM.

So logically the bigger the load the more the battery is going to dip under load as it tries to supply the current demand. The bigger the demand the better/higher maH the battery should be I suppose.
 

FAAmecanic

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That makes sense...that under load it dips below what that DNA can supply.
But at the same time I can continue to vape that same battery on my provari, same ohm load, same voltage until it reads 3.2 under load. I think it could be just the difference in the way the DNA handles output vs a straight regulated voltage device (like the provari)


The AW cells I have probably have about 100 recharges on them, on top of being about 1.5 yrs old, and being 1600 mah. So they a probably not up to snuff to use in a DNA device.

So I think some 2500+ mah batts will make a big difference.

So any recommendations on batteries.

And thanks for your help guys. Just wanted to make sure what I was seeing was normal.
 
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Rossum

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Right, it's the voltage at the regulator's battery terminals under load that matters. This is affected by the regulator's draw (which in the case of a DNA is primarily determined by what wattage setting you're using, not your coil's resistance), the battery's internal resistance, and any resistance between the battery and the regulator. I don't own a Cutlass yet, but I do own some other DNA 20 mods with 18650s in them and I can vape them all day (and go through a full tank of juice in a Kayfun and then some) on a single charge. Methinks either FAAmecanic's battery is worn out and tired, or that perhaps he's got some resistance in the connections between the regulator and the battery. The first thing I'd do is try a new battery from a reputable vendor. The 2900 mAh Panasonics are awesome in a DNA-20.
 

Capt' Brian

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Right, it's the voltage at the regulator's battery terminals under load that matters. This is affected by the regulator's draw (which in the case of a DNA is primarily determined by what wattage setting you're using, not your coil's resistance), the battery's internal resistance, and any resistance between the battery and the regulator. I don't own a Cutlass yet, but I do own some other DNA 20 mods with 18650s in them and I can vape them all day (and go through a full tank of juice in a Kayfun and then some) on a single charge. Methinks either FAAmecanic's battery is worn out and tired, or that perhaps he's got some resistance in the connections between the regulator and the battery. The first thing I'd do is try a new battery from a reputable vendor. The 2900 mAh Panasonics are awesome in a DNA-20.


Do you have a link for a good price on those Panasonics? All this talk has made me realize that I am using a bunch of 3 year old batteries myself and I should get one or two new ones soon.
 

Rossum

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I was about to write that I'm not the most price-conscious shopper around and the only place I buy batteries is from Orbtonic, 'cause I know what I'm getting from them is real, but they're typically not the cheapest. Then I went to check the price and they're currently having a sale on 'em. $7.99 strikes me as a pretty good deal. I'm not sure whether it's copacetic for me to post a link, but they're not hard to find.
 

debinnv

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Capt' Brian

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Can you get the caddies kind of custom for what you have? Really nice stuff.

You betcha, as mentioned above just shoot me a PM and I can resize the necessary holes. I just need to know what to change and the diameter of the new hole.
 

Capt' Brian

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Thanks. This will be great. If I tell you what style I have{batteries,clearomizers,box, tips,etc., you can make it from that?

Well, yes and no. There are thousands of different tanks/attys and other things that can be plugged into pen styles, tubes styles and everything in between. I can't possibly know what size they all are so your best bet is to take a look at what I have to offer and what would suit your needs, then if anything needs to be 'tweaked' I can do that for you.

To design and make a entirely new desk caddy takes an entire work day of CAD programming, CNC program conversion and then running on the machines, hand sanding and finally finishing. It's far more cost effective to find a premade holder that suits you needs.

Desk Caddies
 

Capt' Brian

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Ahoy all, happy Monday!

Another 50% chance of rain here, typical summer day in central Florida. I usually don't use the CNC machine when there are rain clouds around but man, I'm not getting any work done really so it's time to risk it and press on. If lightening/rain causes a power hick-up and I lose a mod, so be it I guess. Must get back to work!



How do you order mahogany, or is that no longer an option? I was looking at the medium combo.:2cool:

I have a little African mahogany on hand that I can spare, you have my permission to make your order and put "Mahogany" in the comments during checkout. I don't offer it anymore as it is a bit pricey and hard to get down here. I think the guitar making industry is taking more than their fair share!
 
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