X1Momma always said don't knock it until you've tried it... I've tried it but I don't like it. I have a pair of Hadalays (authentic) and a pair of black delrin caps (also authentic) and as much as I wanted to like the Hadalay it's not for me. I received these this past Monday and have used them for a week; the simply are not my bag. If there was never a Narda (Chi or authentic) nor an O-Atty (HD) (cho or otherwise) I would like it but with the current choices I find the chamber too small. I'd love to unload these 1 week old authentics with caps for $130 shipped for both attys and both caps. First X1 takes the set.
If you,are wondering what replaced them it was a pair of Ch-O-Atty (HD)s. Since I have learned the secret to building them (coil less than 1mm above the BF pin) even my Nardas have moved to second string and that leaves the Hadalays collecting dust. I paid 170 something shipped for these directly from Psyclone.
Little Bird takes the Hadalays. Thanks. I'll pack them up tomorrow morning. Thanks again.
The Tres Equis looks like a winner. What do you guys think?
I'm having a little trouble with my O-attys, and thought to ask the assembled experts for help
I've been using SS316L, 26 ga. Single, compressed coil, around .4 ohms. Often, when I first fire it to make sure everything is good, one of the legs - the one wrapped around the positive post - breaks. The end of the wire is clipped to the inside, and isn't touching anything. This happens perhaps 50% of the time. What am I doing wrong?
TIA!
20-ish, I think. Too high?What wattage are you using to check the coil?
Is the bottom of the coil resting on the squonk pin? I had that earlier today. 6 3mm wraps of 26 kanthal for .4 ohms? (Should be closer to .7-.8). Bottom of the coil was a hair too low. Check that.I'm having a little trouble with my O-attys, and thought to ask the assembled experts for help
I've been using SS316L, 26 ga. Single, compressed coil, around .4 ohms. Often, when I first fire it to make sure everything is good, one of the legs - the one wrapped around the positive post - breaks. The end of the wire is clipped to the inside, and isn't touching anything. This happens perhaps 50% of the time. What am I doing wrong?
TIA!
20-ish, I think. Too high?
I might do them so the cap never has to come out. It will depend on the construction of the mod.looks good..but accessing and inserting the bottle might be a bit of a challenge..it has 3 battery caps on the bottom like the ones used for the SXmini.
I always test fire at 40 watts on the LBC with quick pulses.Start around 8-10. If that's too low increase in 1w increments, slowly. Remember, you don't want to burn the tar out of em
I'm thinking about doing a cam-m v2. Similar format to the upgraded cam-m v1 (with the VT BF 510) and maybe a different body. Just gauging interest.
I might do them so the cap never has to come out. It will depend on the construction of the mod.
In regards to the new mod what would you rather have? The LBC jr (dna75/18650) same shape as the LBC but 30% smaller or the Trap mod (dna75/maybe even dna60 optional/ lipo 1850)? Personally I like the Trap mod way better but I realized I never asked your opinions.
Send it in... I'm doing a pair for DB and 2 pairs for Hildicat one more makes a party.If it takes the Trap shape for the Lipo, that's my vote. Other than getting a CC Dually for my Rotation, I have plenty of 18650 Mods, including the CAM v1. Once Spring arrives and you get some free-time/ slow-down on the Mod projects, I'd like to have the CAM 510 upgraded...![]()
Lipo dna75/60 for sure. Im searching high and low for a quality dna133 dual 18650 squonker , no luck as of yet. I did find a sweet series pwm box squonkerIn regards to the new mod what would you rather have? The LBC jr (dna75/18650) same shape as the LBC but 30% smaller or the Trap mod (dna75/maybe even dna60 optional/ lipo 1850)? Personally I like the Trap mod way better but I realized I never asked your opinions.