And another thing, don't get a copper tank, after a day's use it gets ugly cause of the heat ect, yeah it looks good but not for long, end up polishing it every time you use it, I give up, I'm going for the used look, leave the patina as is hehe
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I’ve wondered how that plays out because I know copper is a really reactive metal when it comes to age and liquids. I didn’t know if it would turn green or what.
@Forde, is that a kennedy atomizer?
I picked up some SS to mess around with TC and then later learned SS makes the resistance jump all over so I don’t know how far along I’ll get with my TC experiments. Whatever the case I wrapped some 9 wrap @ 3.5 ID. The wire is 28x2 with 40 wrapped around it.
I went a little high in the gauge to counter SS’s low resistance. So far the wire works great but it looks like trash because wrapping the coils I guess I made all the wrap pull apart. Not sure if I did that or it’s just the nature of the 40ga. wire. I’ll just have to be careful next time and see how it comes out. I’d kinda like to swap that 40ga for 36 or 38.
Kinda looks rusty even though I promise you it’s new wire. Ohms seem to be settling at .42. Does anyone know, is SS to be avoided on a mech mod due to the resistance issues or is that the chip having issues with reading?
Edit: took the atty cap off, put it back on, resistance is now .35. Alrighty then.
Edit #2: at .39 now. It’s starting to look like I may have 25’ of wire that I’ll never use.
@Forde, is that a kennedy atomizer?
I picked up some SS to mess around with TC and then later learned SS makes the resistance jump all over so I don’t know how far along I’ll get with my TC experiments. Whatever the case I wrapped some 9 wrap @ 3.5 ID. The wire is 28x2 with 40 wrapped around it.
I went a little high in the gauge to counter SS’s low resistance. So far the wire works great but it looks like trash because wrapping the coils I guess I made all the wrap pull apart. Not sure if I did that or it’s just the nature of the 40ga. wire. I’ll just have to be careful next time and see how it comes out. I’d kinda like to swap that 40ga for 36 or 38.Kinda looks rusty even though I promise you it’s new wire. Ohms seem to be settling at .42. Does anyone know, is SS to be avoided on a mech mod due to the resistance issues or is that the chip having issues with reading?
Edit: took the atty cap off, put it back on, resistance is now .35. Alrighty then.
Edit #2: at .39 now. It’s starting to look like I may have 25’ of wire that I’ll never use.
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It’s from a spool of premade wire. Someone felt they needed my drill more than I did and walked off with it. As soon as I get another one though I’ll wind my own wires.
The reason for wanting to experiment with TC is due to finding out that around 450 degrees and above you start to get chemicals you don’t want to inhale, so I wanted to see what 450 and under is like because I have absolutely no clue what temp I prefer. I know it’s on the cooler side because I run wattages pretty low compared to others but I couldn’t tell you whether it’s 200 or 2,000 degrees.
Word on the street is DNA chips are what you want for accurate TC.
The reason for wanting to experiment with TC is due to finding out that around 450 degrees and above you start to get chemicals you don’t want to inhale, so I wanted to see what 450 and under is like because I have absolutely no clue what temp I prefer. I know it’s on the cooler side because I run wattages pretty low compared to others but I couldn’t tell you whether it’s 200 or 2,000 degrees.
Word on the street is DNA chips are what you want for accurate TC.
I’ve wondered how that plays out because I know copper is a really reactive metal when it comes to age and liquids. I didn’t know if it would turn green or what.
@Forde, is that a kennedy atomizer?
I picked up some SS to mess around with TC and then later learned SS makes the resistance jump all over so I don’t know how far along I’ll get with my TC experiments. Whatever the case I wrapped some 9 wrap @ 3.5 ID. The wire is 28x2 with 40 wrapped around it.
View attachment 843405
Kinda looks rusty even though I promise you it’s new wire. Ohms seem to be settling at .42. Does anyone know, is SS to be avoided on a mech mod due to the resistance issues or is that the chip having issues with reading?
Edit: took the atty cap off, put it back on, resistance is now .35. Alrighty then.
Edit #2: at .39 now. It’s starting to look like I may have 25’ of wire that I’ll never use.
All metals rise in resistance with heat. This is called Temperature Coefficient of Resistance. Each metal has its own coefficient value which indicates how much it will rise in resistance for every +1C° (in simple terms). Kanthal and Ni80 both employ a low TCR value, therefore their resistance changes very little with heat. SS has a medium TCR value, and other metals that we use to vape have a much higher value such as Titanium and Nickel.
By entering this value into a Temp Control device, the mod can calculate the temperature by referencing the coils rise in resistance (in simple terms).
That said, it is normal for Stainless Steel to increase resistance with heat. Its medium rate means in wattage mode, the device should still be able handle the change without asking if a new coil was installed. As resistance rises, the device should adjust the voltage to meet your wattage demand
With a mech, as the resistance of SS rises, current will drop – perfectly safe and some mech users actually prefer this over Kanthal or Ni80.
All TCR compatible coils should be read at room temperature (in fact, all coils should be read at room temperature). If you have been firing the coil, it may not have cooled back down to room temp, therefore it’s resistance will be off.
The wrap on a Clapton coil should not separate like that. Either you beat it up, or the wire you are using was poorly wrapped. A lot of my Clapton type wire utilizes a 40 awg wrap.
Just saw this,
Brass patinas too. I have a brass mech that I’ve barely handled at all, never used, and already it’s turning more brown and it’s losing it’s shine so if you would probably have to keep up on cleaning it too. If you want your shine you’re going to have to work for it brother.
Brass patinas too. I have a brass mech that I’ve barely handled at all, never used, and already it’s turning more brown and it’s losing it’s shine so if you would probably have to keep up on cleaning it too. If you want your shine you’re going to have to work for it brother.
How would I go about calculating the TCR value for this SS wire?
When messing with it I started thinking maybe SS has less ‘grip’ but it may be that it’s wrapped loose. I didn’t abuse it more than any other wire type I’ve used. The brand is WireOptim.
Maybe I handled it too rough. It’s the first time I’ve used 40ga. Maybe I need to be a little more delicate.
When messing with it I started thinking maybe SS has less ‘grip’ but it may be that it’s wrapped loose. I didn’t abuse it more than any other wire type I’ve used. The brand is WireOptim.
Maybe I handled it too rough. It’s the first time I’ve used 40ga. Maybe I need to be a little more delicate.
You will need sophisticated equipment to actually measure the correct TCR value. But the TCR value can be found on the interwebs for much of the metals we use. We can also use Steam Engine’s Wire Wizard. What type of SS are you using? Different grades have different values
Strange on the wrap separating with the WireOptim wire. Previously known as Lightning Vapes, I’ve used this wire in the past and never problems with the wrap separating like that.
Not at all. I have a cat, cats know everything. Little piece of bacon and she will answer any question you have
They are but they clear. It’s a tiny atomizer and 3mm diameter coils. It’s the first time I used that atomizer and 2.5 are probably a better fit for it, or less wraps.
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